Going Natural – New Trends in Wine

Going Natural – New Trends

A talk and tasting with Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol

Topics include Natural Wines, Old Vines, Sulphur and Biodynamic Wine

Philippe Chaume. The Vinsobres estate organic since 1997 and certified biodynamic since 2009.
Picture courtesy of  http://www.provencefoodandwine.com

The Carrigaun Room (in the Grainstore) was full as Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol began their talk and tasting with a look at Biodynamic wines as part of last weekend’s marvellous Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine.

Mary thought the move to organic and biodynamic was one of “the most positive sides to the wine world” over the past two decades or so. She described biodynamics as “organics with knobs on" and "some very big names have adopted it”.

Our first wine, to illustrate biodynamic, was the Monte Dall-Ora Valpolicella Classico Saseti (Veneto). Pascal told us this came from a 7-9 hectare vineyard, a recent venture, bought as an almost organic vineyard and then they went bio. “It is all care and attention, hand harvested, all small scale so as not to damage the fruit. Almost a labour of love!” 

Pascal Rossignol

The next topic was natural wines. This is “a new level again”...”kind of controversial”...”up in the air”. But it means as naturally as possible. Practitioners try and recreate the natural balance in and around the vineyards. The timing of the harvest is vital as no additives will be used. “These wines have a vibrancy and a natural balance.”

There are no written rules, no classification, but there are some must follow steps and guidelines:

-          Manual harvest

-          Minimum use of sulphites

-          Quick to winery

-          Sulphites reduced as healthy fruit more able to fight oxidization

-          Babysit the process

Mary Dowey

-          Natural yeasts only to be used.

Pascal: “These wines are alive, really agree with you, more magic in the wine and are noted for their digestibility as much as for their drinkability.”

And certainly that seemed to be the case with our second wine, the Breton Vouvray La Dilettante (Loire 2011). Really liked this Chenin Blanc. Breton are very influential in the natural wine making world and I look forward to tasting more of it on its home ground later in the summer.

Now we were on to sulphites*. These occur naturally in wine but it is the use of them during the process at different stages (including the bottling) that add up and give a problem for some people who may be allergic to them. In the world of organic and natural wines, the purists don’t use sulphites but some others might use just a fraction of what is allowed (by the appellation). 

Our chemical free wine was the Alfredo Maestro Tejoro,Vina Almate Tempranillo (2012). It weighed in with a 14.5% abv “but that was the year that was in it”. The producers felt they had enough rules and regulations to follow in making the wine without also complying with the Ribera del Duero classification system so the words Ribera del Duero do not appear on the bottle.

Old Vines. What's the deal?

“The subject of old vines has been gathering momentum in recent years. But what’s the deal?” asked Mary as we reached that subject. What is old? She reckoned it had to be forty years at least and cautioned that not all varieties benefit from older vines. It doesn’t do anything for Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot but Grenache is well suited.

The main benefit is an “intensity of flavour, really concentrated”. And she had the perfect example, the Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres (Rhone 2010). Vinsobres is a higher level on the Rhone ladder in any event but this wine, biodynamic and from old vines, is a gem, well balanced, with lovely acidity, harmony and soft tannins. Gorgeous.

Pascal’s wine shop in  Kilkenny specialises in these types of wine and you may check it out here. 

Mary spends much of her time in Provence and, as I know from first hand experience, has a terrific website on the area with great tips on restaurants and food producers. Click here.

* Wine is not the only thing that sulphites turn up in. In the US, the FDA has published this list.

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings galore in the Big Shed as the Ballymaloe Literary Festival continued on Sunday: Sherry, Whiskey (and cheese), Douro Wines including Ports and a bunch of Rieslings. Haven’t had this much fun in a barn since sneakily draining a few bottles of porter at a threshing about 1960!

Sherry sorting by Ballymaloe's Colm McCann (right).

Ballymaloe’s Colm McCan is a big sherry fan so no surprise that the famous wines of Jerez featured here. The surprise perhaps was that they were introduced by the Irish Examiner wine writer Leslie Williams who did a superb job.

The tasting concentrated on the Dry Sherry, Fino and Manzanilla. And the big surprise and a delightful one was the fact that a couple of En Rama, including a superb one by Tio Pepe, were included. The great thing about en rama is that the wine doesn’t go through the Solera system but is bottled in its natural state. It is therefore more intense and a bit more complex. But it does need to be consumed within a few months of bottling.

The bad news about En Rama is that you are unlikely to find it in Ireland but do look out for it in Spain. If you do come across it, get yourself a few slices of Iberico and enjoy!

Strong stuff! Holding on to the Power!

On then to the Single Pot Irish Whiskey demo by the folks from L Mulligan Grocers, matched with Irish Farmhouse cheeses. “Everything on the table is from Cork except for the goat cheese.”

First pairing was the Green Spot single malt and a mature (April 2012) cheese from Coolea. We were up and running and beginning to believe in the pairings. That belief was enhanced with the next tasty double, the traditional Pot Still Redbreast matched with the soft, creamy, mild yet zesty Fivemiletown Goat Cheese from County Tyrone.

The next whiskey was the Power’s, “a bit more punch here than normal with an ABV of 46%, a superb whiskey finished in sherry cask (which are expensive)”. If the drink had power, so too had the Hegarty’s Mature Cheddar. This was the strongest flavoured pairing and, on a show of hands, the most popular.

Great Douro line-up, Dows 85 nearest camera.

New glasses appeared as Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance started his demo of wines and ports from the Douro Valley, “a challenging environment that produces great wines”. And he prove his point with two of his own wines, a smooth and brilliant white and an excellent limited production red, both by Quinta du Judeu.

“I love Port”, said Maurice, as he enthusiastically moved on to that section with two fine examples from Nieport. But the star here was to be the Dows Single Vintage 1985, “the top of the pyramid” made in the very year that Maurice did his inter-cert (not verified) and also the year that the very first mobile call was made.

The label on this bottle looked the worse for wear but there was nothing at all wrong with the stunning contents. Absolutely gorgeous and a pleasure to be there to taste it.

Light, in more ways than one: just 8%

And yet more good things to come, all in the name of Riesling and under the guidance of one of the variety’s most genial supporters John McDonnell. “Riesling is not homogenous,” declared the man form Ballyvaughan. “It has many different styles, which can be confusing, from very sweet to searingly dry. Makes it all the more interesting.”

Started off with the full dry style of the Wolf Blass from Australia. Next was the 2005 Trimbach. This had the deeper colour of its age, more texture and richer. But it also had this whiff of petrol that older Riesling acquires. 

Then came the sweeter but very well balanced style of Willie Haag’s 2004 from the Mosel. Just 8 per cent alcohol and “delicious on a warm summer’s day”.

John McDonnell makes a point!

Finished off with a dessert gem: Mount Horrocks 2001 Cordon Cut. The Cordon Cut refers to the way the vines are trained (also used with other fruit a and superbly illustrated by John holding out those long arms!). This is a good intro to the type. It is lighter and cleaner than most stickies (the name Oz gives to its sweet wines) and John says the acidity keeps it fresh and bright.

A bit of a marathon then in the tasting corner of the Big Shed, so time to head off and get something to eat and head for home. What a day. What a weekend at Ballymaloe! 

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

Ger Buckley (left), Master Cooper at Midleton Distillery, shows how it is done.

Great to meet up with Susan Boyle, volunteer and performer.
 Catch her one woman show A Wine Goose Chase (Kinsale July, Cork August)

Just a few of the Wines by the Wine Geese

The Conroy family of Woodside family fed
the crowds with their free range pork and bacon

Kenny's of Galway brought a car load of books!

The Rocketman (left) was flying and here
many tiring punters got the juice to carry on for
another few hours. Super salads!

Emer(left) and Clare meet Neven.

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe LitFest

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe

 Literary Festival of Food and Wine 

Clockwise from top left: Cooper demo; John McDonnell (Riesling tasting);
L. Mulligan Grocer Whiskey and Cheese pairing; Bradger & Dodo new package;
cameo performance by Susan Boyle; Maurice O'Mahony of
Wine Alliance with Wines and Ports of the Duoro;
Leslie Williams on Sherry;
and Pulled Pork Bap from Woodside.

Neven Maguire at Ballymaloe

A People's Person!

I'm very much a people's person
First boy in school to do home economics
Porridge, with honey, cream and Irish Whiskey, is the most popular dish in the restaurant
Food and GIY go hand in hand
Modern Irish now? Local seasonal ingredients in  different combinations with different techniques...not a mish mash....balance...I like to add Asian influences...don't over-complicate it...
Stars not a priority. Happy with Michelin tyres on my car...stars can be a double edged sword.
Look after your key people....respect!

Neven, a terrific supporter of Irish produce (not to mention a host of good causes), is rightly proud of what he has done in that small village of Blacklion in Cavan. He isn't finished yet. Far from it. Next step is to set up a cookery school.
Well done Neven. We are proud to have you. Enjoy your day off today!

Ballymaloe LitFest

Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Clockwise from top left: Treats Petit; Bill Casey; Anthony Cresswell of Ummera;
Nevin's cheesecake; Neven Maguire; Graffiti in the shed; Lolo's Breton Crepes;
and Tony Farrell's bowl.

Terrific day in Ballymaloe. So much to see and do, to eat and drink and sample. Lots for the kids as well. And it all goes ahead again tomorrow and Monday. Get the details here

The Wine Geese Return in Style!

“The Return of The Wine Geese” Black Tie banquet will bring together wines with an Irish heritage from around the globe with wonderful food in the beautiful Fleming's Restaurant.  

The full line-up of wines that will feature on the night will follow shortly.  Tickets are available from O’Donovans Off Licence Head Office only and are €100. 

Tickets are limited to 4 per booking and are must be pre-paid.  Contact Deirdre or Rose on 021-4296060 for details.

Bringing The Wine Geese Home

Gala Banquest at Flemings Restaurant, Cork City

Saturday 18^th May 2013

7.30pm Drinks Reception ~ 8.00pm Seated for Dinner

Pate de Foie Gras

Pate of Foie Gras, served with its own jelly

Tossed leaf salad and melba toast

Conift de Voalille , wonton de Canard

Home smoked chicken ballotine and wonton of duck confit

Served with a compot of fresh orange

Paupiette de sole Limande

Paupiette of sole served with pink grapefruit , served with a light saffron sauce

Sorbet de champagne

Champagne sorbet served with passion fruit and a sweet balsamic glaze

Longe D’agneau roti

Roast Loin of Lamb , ragout of sweetbread and a light rosemary”jus”

Trio de Fromage

Tipperary mature Cashel Blue

West Cork Mileens

Cork Hegary’s cheddar

Dessert

Tart au Citron, vanilla ice-cream and marinated strawberries

Cafe

This Sauvignon Blanc is a Sophisticated Beauty

Fleur McCree (centre) at L'Atitude
with Beverly (left) and Emma.

Sophisticated Beauty

Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc Limited Edition 2010, Marlborough (New Zealand), 13.5%, €17.99-18.99,  stockists

Aromatic, with a pale yellow colour, this wine is, they say, “a fine example of an intense and mouth-watering single vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc”.

And it is all that, and a little bit more sophisticated than some of its neighbours. Maybe that is why this fine and elegant wine is holding top spot as the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at London’s Claridge Hotel. It is also a Gold Medal winner at the Mundus Vini International Wine Awards.

So grab a bottle or two while you can as this is only ever going to be available as a limited release. In fact, so limited “my annual production volume represents a tiny 0.0005% of total market share in the UK”. Very Highly Recommended.

Fleur McCree is the face of Little Beauty wine in these parts and she will be here on Thursday May 16th in Latitude 51 (No. 1, Union Quay) as part of the ongoing WineGeese series.

Fleur will retrace her family steps back to Cork in a presentation and tasting of her wines in association with Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance. Varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Check with the venue ((021) 239 0219) for tickets details.

Cork French Food and Wine Festival

Cork French Food and Wine Festival

The Cork French Food and Wine Festival returns to Cork this May being hosted in St Patrick's Woolen Mills, Douglas, Cork. 

The three day event is set to be an interesting mix of the Best of French Cuisine, French wines with French cabaret and Music and add a certain 'je ne sais quoi' at the Douglas venue. It also includes a French Food trail in Cork City as Cork Favourite restaurants are including a French dish on their menus. 

Thursday 9th at 7pm: BANQUET A LA FRANCAISE.. 
A Suprise seven courses menu prepared by chef Michael Flemings of Flemings restaurant. - Price = 50€ - Bookings at 021-4617832 

Friday 10th from 5pm : MARCHE NOCTURNE and WINE FAIR.
 - Free entry 
At 9pm : Music and dance with 'Two Time polka' - Tickets = 10€ 

Saturday 11th from 11am to 18.00. : 
C'est La fete!! : Festival day, with French dishes prepared by Cork restaurants, Wine Fair, Pigs on the Spit,... And many activities for Kids and Adults organised by Frankfield Petanque Club, Artlink, Art in the park,, Enfants Francophones de Cork, Eurochild.. and many more... 

Saturday Night from 8pm:
 Cabaret Night with French Singer Caroline Moreau. 
Tickets = 16 € including a glass of wine. (See www.frenchfoodfestival.com) 

For more info, see www.frenchfoodfestival.com and our facebook page at Cork french food and wine festival. 

Food and Drink Spotting: Castle Hotel a winner!

Food and Drink Spotting

Castle Hotel & Leisure Centre Scoops  ‘Best Customer Service’ Award

The boutique 4 * Castle Hotel in Macroom, Co. Cork beat off stiff competition and was voted best ‘customer service’ hotel in Munster by the Restaurant Association of Ireland (RAI) in its annual restaurant awards.

The prestigious awards which are the largest in the country are run on an annual basis by the Restaurant Association of Ireland (RAI) and are highly sought after by industry professionals. The ‘best customer service’ award recognises establishments who go beyond the call of duty in a consistent and industry appropriate manner.

 Owner, Don Buckley said “The Irish Restaurant Awards are renowned for recognising and rewarding achievement and excellence within the Restaurant and Hospitality industry. It is a lovely surprise and boost for management and staff. It will spur us on in continuing to exceed customer expectations- after all customer is king!”

The Castle Hotel is no stranger to awards was recently ranked 12th within the top twenty five hotels in Ireland in the “customer service” hotel award category by the world’s largest travel community, Trip Advisor. Other accolades include a Certificate of Excellence for 2011 and securing best “bargain” and “family” hotel in 2012.

 Industry category nominations will be judged by the National Awards Academy in late May and independently assessed by KPMG. County winners will then go on to compete for the Regional and All Ireland title which will be announced in the Burlington Hotel on 10th June 2013.

Laurenz V Charming Takes Generation Grϋner Title

At Exclusive Blind Tasting Event In Dublin

Laurenz V Charming has been crowned number one Grϋner Veltliner at a recent ‘Generation Grϋner’ blind tasting event held at the Shelbourne Hotel.

Organised by Dieter Hϋbler and Laurenz Maria Moser, partners in Austria’s Grϋner specialist producer Laurenz V, Dublin was the forth leg of the Generation Grϋner tour to be held all over the world, preceded by London, Zurich and Vienna with further tastings planned for Dubai, Hong Kong and Asia later this year.

Laurenz V Charming beat 23 other wines from eight countries including Austria, Germany, France, Australia, New Zealand, Slovakia, USA and the Czech Republic. This same wine came second in London so went one better in Dublin to take the title!

The top five Grϋner Veltliner wines resulting from the blind tasting in Dublin were:

·         Laurenz V Charming Grüner 2011 (AUT)

·         Weingut Hammel Pfalz 2011 (GER)

·         Bott Frigyes 2011 (SK)

·         Yealands Estate 2012 (NZ)

·         Weingut Weegmüller Vom Balkon der Pfalz  2012 (GER)

The wines were scored out of 20 and the scores for each wine were tallied at the end of the tasting. The judging panel included seven of Ireland’s respected wine journalists as well as Julie Dupouy, Ireland’s Sommelier of the Year 2012.  Austria has now claimed the best wine on two occasions tying with Germany who has also claimed two victories.

Laurenz Maria Moser of Laurenz V said: “We are delighted that LAURENZ V Charming has taken the Generation Grϋner title in Dublin. We are happy to have started this initiative to evaluate the different styles of Grϋner produced around the world, and to find out what might exist beyond the Austrian styles. Having a look at the development of Grϋner on a world scale might help to broaden the horizon for Austria’s Grϋners.”

Kitchen Garden Workshop

Elke of Bia Sasta tells me that Kitty is returning to The Cottage of Bia Sásta, to continue “to share her skills and knowledge with us to ensure that we all have a fab kitchen garden. We will learn how to transplant seedlings, how to plant directly, how to keep weeds at bay and how to enrich your soil. All this is topped with a lunch prepared by me and I have planned something nice for you. You will go home with a pile of new knowledge, information material, a full tummy and a little gift. If you like to join us on Saturday, 11th May at 10am near Grenagh, please email me on biasasta@hotmail.com to reserve a place for €20 inkl. all the above.”  

Ben & Jerry on Tour! Ben & Jerry’s flavour fans will get the chance to experience the new flavours in the most delicious surroundings as The Core Tour returns to Dublin with not one but two events in Dublin on the 9^th & 11^th May. The Core Crusader van will hoof it to two locations alongside a brand spanking new Ben & Jerry’s barn area, where fans can enjoy their chosen scoop of their favourite Core flavour while chilling on hay bales, enjoying the sunshine and listening to top tunes from some of Ireland’s best up-and-coming bands! Get all the details here. 

Shorts

Easy Jambon snack:  http://www.foodspotting.com/reviews/3490995

Loire Lesson #3. Loving Cabernet Franc.

Loire Lesson #3

Domaine de Roncée, Chinon 2007, 12.5% abv, €17.95, Karwig 

Agreeable aromas of dark fruits greet you, some spice also. This red, produced from the Cabernet Franc grape, is juicy and fruity, fresh, light and well balanced with an excellent long finish.

The official description says it is “tender and easy to drink”. Easy to drink for sure, even though it seems stronger than its 12.5%. But I would be inclined to dispute “tender” as there is a fair bit of backbone in this one. Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, the Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour, named on the front label are mentioned among the top Chinon producers by Hugh Johnson in his 2012 handbook.

And the lesson? Well, it is easy to love Cabernet Franc. And I’m looking forward to trying it out on its home soil when I visit Chinon later in the summer. Still looking for tips for the Loire area.

Tapas at Skibbereen’s Riverside Café

Spanish delights in Skibbereen evening sun

Albarino, almost same colour as the olive oil behind

Having spent a day in the West Cork sun last Saturday, and having walked every step in the exhilarating MizenHead experience, I was looking forward to dinner in Majella O’Neill’s Riverside Café in Skibbereen.

Had checked out the fish specials and thought they were just what were wanted. But there was a change of plan on entry to this lovely restaurant. The lady looking after us was from Galicia and so too was the chef. We noticed the Tapas Tasting menu on a board and went for it.

Seafood Bon Bon

We were seated close to the windows with a nice view over the River Ilen. Indeed if the weather had been a degree or two warmer we’d have been sitting at an outside table. Still we enjoyed the sun inside and indeed there were times when we could have done with the sun glasses. All very Spanish as we waited for the tapas.

But first a decision had to be made on the wine. The French and Italian were on a loser here and we choose the Atlantik Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain (of course), and priced at seven euro a glass. I liked their description: While it may slake the thirst of many a Camino pilgrim, this Albarino is far from penitential. Really enjoyed it and it had an outstanding colour almost as gold as the olive oil alongside it (see photo).

Duck Pate

We were to enjoy four tapas on the Tasting Menu that cost €18.50. First up was a Sea Food Bon Bon, served in two little shot glasses with a garlic and olive oil mix. A great mix of flavours and we were on our way to the North West of Spain.

Pig's cheek

Our second plate saw the arrival of their Homemade Duck Liver Parfait, served with salad, caramelised red onions and crostinis. That didn't last long either!

Pig’s cheek is making a comeback in these parts and we were about to get the Galician version: Pork Cheek Confit, Truffle mashed potato, Savoy Cabbage, carrot chutney and Port salsa. Pig’s head with spuds and cabbage in other words. In one word: gorgeous! In two words: super tasty.

Lamb

And the best was yet to come: Roast Rump (had lump down first!) of Lamb, served with aubergine Zaalouk and sauce of red peppers. Superb stuff indeed.

Lemon Pudding

And still room for dessert (not included in the tapas menu). We each went for the Lemon Pudding, served with chocolate cigars and meringue (€6.00). Delighted with that too and finished off with a pot of loose leaf Earl Grey before stepping out into the sunshine and a long enough walk to the car. If you do book the Riverside (and I recommend that you do visit), remember that Saturday is mass night in Skibb and, with the church very close to the Riverside, all the nearby parking will be taken.

*By the way, the Riverside is a great supporter of local produce. “Our list of suppliers changes with supply and demand but among our regular sources of products are:

Ballyburden Meats, Busby Strawberries, Caherbeg Freerange Pork, Carbery Milk Products, Clona Milk Products, Cork Coffee Roasters, John and Mary Cronin Feirm Ur Milk & Yogurt, Durrus Cheese, GlenIlen, Gubbeen Smoke House, House of Tea ,Independent Irish Healthfoods, Lorge Chocolatier , Milsean Artisan Chocolatiers , Pandora Bell, Seafood Cuisine, Shannonvale Chicken, Skeaghnore Duck, Thornhill Organic Farm,,Valleyview Freerange Eggs, Woodcock Smokery.."

Amuse Bouche. Palestinian Picnics.

We spread a red and white checked cloth over the rock and placed on it different salads and vegetable dishes that we had brought with us. We ended with a colourful display, all entirely vegetarian. There was beetroot salad, baba ganoush [an aubergine dip], goat’s cheese, a bowl of carrots, tomatoes and broccoli, different kinds of patties and fruits. We settled down to eat, the men from the group opposite left the women and children to search for dry wood for their barbecue of kufta and lamb chops.

From Occupation Diaries by Raja Shehadeh.