Amuse Bouche

Amuse Bouche 

Our table companions were other editors and writers for the Telegram, men I saw all day and felt no desire to speak to. Like good newsmen everywhere, they knew what was important and homed in on their dinners. On the menu there would have been fresh oysters, inevitably, all of New York was crazy about oysters, they were served in hotels, in "oyster bars", in saloons, they were sold from pushcarts in the street......wonderful fresh oysters in abundance, cold, whole, alive, and dipped in a sharp red sauce. If we were a nation, they were our national dish.........And rack of lamb that you rely on not to be served, as you understand the term, but, more nearly thrown. The odor of the unwashed sommelier tinctured the bouquet of the wine he poured. But no matter. The newsmen were an island of quiet absorption in the roar.

From The Waterworks by EL Doctorow.

Quarter One: The Restaurant File. Cafes too.

Good start to 2013

Meat Pie at Treyvaud's

It has been a fairly busy start to the New Year (not so new, I suppose!) and I've been able to visit quite a few restaurants and cafes, including some new to me.  Not all made the list below. You may check the reports by clicking on the names and you'll see that fish is a strong thread all the way through. Met Paolo Tullio late last year in Ballymaloe and he commented on the great availability of fish in Cork (as compared to Dublin) and these visits underline his experience. It is also very encouraging to see the trend of using local produce increasing all the time.
The lists, by the way, are in no particular order!

Chowder at Oysters

Restaurants
Fleming's Tivoli
The Barn Mayfield
Rico's Mardyke
The Rising Tide Glounthaune
Raymond's Midleton
Bunnyconnellan's Myrtleville
The Chapel Steps Bandon
Finn's Table Kinsale
Oysters at the Clarion
Mabel Crawford's at Vienna Woods Hotel
Bramley Lodge at Cobh Cross

Cafes
Idaho Caroline Street
Manning's Ballylickey
The Duchess Tea Rooms (Bandon)
The Lemon Leaf Kinsale
Diva Boutique Ballinspittle
Vikki's at Sunday's Well

Gastro-Pubs
Charlie Mac's Fermoy

Dublin
Toscana Dame Street
Brown Thomas The Restaurant Grafton Street

Kerry
La Cascade at Sheen Falls Kenmare
Mulcahy's Kenmare
Treyvaud's Killarney
The Strawberry Field (cafe on Sneem - Moll's Gap Road))

Food and Drink Spotting

McGeogh's Air dried Lamb

Food and Drink Spotting

Vikki’s a new kid on the Sunday’s Well Road

Did you know you can get Arbutus Bread in Sunday’s Well? Also Terrines and Pates made by On the Pig’s Back? Even Air dried Connemara Lamb?

Well, the old Post office is the place to go. It has been transformed into a cafe deli by Vikki. And she is stocking some really good food by local producers. I brought home a pack of that lamb from Connemara, air dried by McGeough who also do other meats.

But I had a big choice. Glenisk yoghurts, O’Flynn’s Gourmet Sausages, Gubbeen meats and cheeses, Blue Haven foods and Janet's Country Fayre are all to be found on the well stocked shelves. And lots of sweet things also, including the irresistible Mella’s Fudge. Settled for the sumptuous Rum and Raisin.

Had called in for a cup of coffee but just had to nose around. Lots of seating scattered around, some of it by the fire, some by the window and even a few high seats at the counter. Coffee is fine and you can have a scone or something sweeter to go with it.

Vikki’s Cafe Deli  is opened for just about a month and lots of the seats were taken when I called on Saturday afternoon. Expect it to get busier as the fine weather comes in. They have a garden out the back and also some tables and seating on the pavement on the front.

Tue - Fri: 10:00 am - 7:00 pm

Sat: 10:00 am - 6:00 pm

(021) 439 6575


Nash Delight

Cork city centre restaurant Nash 19 is one of the McKenna top 100 Best Restaurant in Ireland and proprietor Claire Nash and her staff are thrilled. Claire: “ We are honoured  to be included in this year’s #100 Best. It a massive achievement for all our team. We are delighted to support so many local producers and showcase them daily on our menu. It is as important as ever to support local thus keeping and creating local jobs”.

Well done also to Kevin and his team at Sage in Midleton for making the top hundred and great also to see Clare's Wild Honey Inn (one of our favourites last year) on the list. The 100 Best Restaurants in Ireland  2013 is just one of the Guides produced by John and Sally McKenna yearly. It is published by Estragon Press and available in all good book shops.

Franciscan Well Festival

Had intended doing a bit more on the excellent craft beer (and cider) festival in the Franciscan Well at the weekend but someone told me I wasn't allowed drink and write!

There was a terrific line-up of brewers in the North Mall, including Beoir Chorca Dhuibhne, Carlow Brewing, the new Seven Windows Cork (with Mi Daza, a rich stout), Porterhouse, Trouble Brewing, Dungarvan Brewing and White Gypsy.

Great to meet up with some old friends, including Scott and Caroline of Eight Degrees and Jack Lynch of the Cotton Ball, and nice to meet some new ones like Ronan Brennan of Galway Brewing who introduced me to his new stout, the very drinkable Bonaparte, rich and creamy with a smooth finish.

Sampled quite a few beers and a few stood out for me. I do like my wheat beers so it was no surprise that I got on very well indeed with the Chameleon Equinox by Metalman from Waterford. This is an easy drinking cloudy wheat lager (4.65) and I’ll be watching out for it as the weather warms up.

It was a little chilly for the festival but Eight Degrees had the antidote: at 7%, Kindred Spirit warms you up from the inside! This very limited edition stout, aged in 25-year-old whiskey barrels from the Teeling Whiskey Company, was unleashed upon the world at the St Patrick’s weekend Irish Craft Beer Village and has been gathering rave reviews since. Justified, methinks!

There was a cider surprise from Daniel Emerson and Stonewell. The programme indicated that he’d have his regular products: Stonewell Dry and Stonewell Medium Dry. But he did even better, bringing a cask and a keg on Saturday.

The cider in the cask was not carbonated and went down a treat. Someone said “dangerous” as you’d sip this beauty away without realising you were downing an alcoholic drink. It was gorgeous. Must say there was nothing wrong with the cider, carbonated, from the keg, but the cask was the popular one..

Shorts

Spicy Pig Ears. Tender, chewy, spicy and just awesome http://www.foodspotting.com/reviews/3348218

Tim Anderson, the 2011 winner of Masterchef, looks at what Japan has to offer beyond sushi on a food tour of the country.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/japan/9966221/Japan-Masterchef-winner-Tim-Andersons-food-tour.html

Authentic Indian Cooking in Cork. Is Cork ready for this? https://www.facebook.com/AnnamFromMyKitchenToYours

This Friday is Fiver Friday at The Spinning Wheel Restaurant at Griffins Garden Centre. Start the weekend with a Traditional Irish Breakfast for just €5. Served from 9 - 12:00 (while Stocks Last).

100 points from Robert Parker!

Le Dôme Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2010

The good news is this wine got 100 points from Robert Parker. The bad news is that it is all pre-bought. Read more about it here

Macabeo. Little known but a winner here.

Macabeo. Little known but a winner here.

Cariñena is one of Spain's most traditional wine-producing regions. Soil is poor with short bush vines on unirrigated land that barely receive any treatment due to the 7 months of “Cierzo” wind which constantly hit this region and where the grape ripens more slowly, allowing all its potential to be fullfilled.

The Macabeo grape has had a hard time getting itself known beyond the North of Spain. Macabeu and Maccabéo are other names for this grape also grown on the French side of the mountains. More of you will know it better as Viura, the main white grape in La Rioja.

Macabeo is the Spanish name though and I’ve got a 1997 Wine Encyclopaedia (American, by the way) in my hands and it makes no mention of the grape. Fast forward to 2012 and there is no mention in Oz Clarke’s Handbook.

Even in Hugh Johnson’s 2012 Pocket Book, it is included and described as “the workhorse white grape of Northern Spain” though, in fairness, he acknowledges its “Good quality potential”. Much of that potential has been realised in this bottle.

For more on this interesting variety check this article by Jancis Robinson: the Cinderella Grape

El Circo Macabeo 2012, Cariñena DO, 12.5%, €9.99 to €10.99, Stockists.

Colour is light gold with an aromatic nose. It is full of gorgeous white fruit but, don’t fear, the flavours don’t overwhelm and indeed the wine is really well balanced with a terrific finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Fontanario de Pegoes 2012, Palmela DO (Portugal), 12.5%, 10.99 to 11.99, stockists

Only the fairly serious wine students will know of the grapes used in this white. It is based mainly on the Fernao Pires variety with a touch of Arinto.

It is a strawy colour with tints of green. Nose is quite aromatic, summer fruits and traces of herbs. The young fruit has a pleasant and moderate input to the overall experience. The wine is light and refreshing, ideal on its own or with fish dishes and salads. Recommended.

East Cork. Well Worth A Visit!

In Praise Of East Cork. Well Worth A Visit!

Ballycotton cliff walk

 Many writers routinely extol the attractions of West Cork and its friendly people. That friendly bit annoys. As if, somewhere between Kinsale and Glounthaune, you draw a line between the friendly natives and the unfriendly.

But we know down here that East Cork is a gem of a place to visit and, yes, the people are just as friendly. From the fantastic 13^th century St Mary’s Collegiate Church  in Youghal to high class Fota House Gardens and Arboretum, with Barryscourt Castle in between, all free to enter, there is a treasure chest of places to visit in the area.

Chowder at Charlie Mac's

Let me take you on a day trip to see some of it. We’ll also enjoy some food  as East Cork is a foodie’s paradise with top notch restaurants including Barnabrow  (ideal for a Sunday lunch), Midleton’s pioneering Farmers Market and the food mecca of Ballymaloe. 

Youghal market

 Coming from the city on the main Cork-Waterford road, take the Cobh exit ramp and head for breakfast at Bramley Lodge.  Now, set up for the morning, go over the nearby bridge to Fota Island and its many attractions.

All tied up in Cobh

 If you have kids, go the Wildlife Park; if not, walk through the renowned Fota Arboretum  and maybe add a tour of the Georgian House. If you like it around here, you may also try the high class  Fota Island Hotel and Golf Resort. 

Ballymaloe free range cockerel

 Moving on, go over the Belvelly Bridge and you find yourself on Great Island where the cathedral town of Cobh is situated. Much to do here including the Sirius Art Gallery, walking tours (including the Titanic Trail), harbourside bars and restaurants and of course the Cobh Heritage Centre which tells of forced deportations  and also the tales of the ill fated liners, The Titanic and the Lusitania. Cruise liners now call here regularly.

Woodland walk in Killeagh (Glenbower Wood)

 Time now to head out of the islands and bear east for Midleton and a tour of the Jameson Experience. If you give the right answers here, you’ll end up with a certificate of proficiency in Whiskey!

Midleton food market. Natives are friendly!

 You may have lunch at the distillery cafe here. I have two favourites just outside: Raymond’s and Sage. There are many more, not forgetting Pat Shortt’s Bar  in nearby Castlemartyr. Prefer a pizza? Then try San Marco's in Midleton.

Fota arboretum

Next stop is Ballymaloe, the home of modern Irish food. You could spend a day here but, with time getting scarce, take a look at the impressive Cookery School gardens and call to the cafe for a mid afternoon coffee.

In the seaside village of Ballycotton, take a stroll down to the pier  and see the fishermen come and go. If you feel you need to stretch the legs, then there is a spectacular walk along the cliff tops.

Hake at Bramley Lodge lunch.

Time now for dinner.  Head back towards the city and make a stop at the estuary village of Glounthaune and the Rising Tide Bar Bistro. Enjoy your meal here, as Lady Gaga did, and take time for a deserved pint in the bar afterwards. An alternative is the Mabel Crawford bistro in the nearby Vienna Woods Hotel.

If heading east, then you’ll find a fine seafood dinner at Aherne’s in Youghal. If going north, why not drop into Charlie Mac’s  in Fermoy where French chef Fred will feed you well.

* Revised from original article 18 April 2011

Organic treat from Yalumba

Yalumba Organic Shiraz 2011 (South Australia), 13.5%, O’Donovan’s Off Licences

Colour is a deep red and on the nose there are sweet dark red fruits. Flavours are quite intense on the palate with spices and pepper. Fruit driven for sure yet there is a lovely softness here and a gorgeous savoury finish. Definitely one to look out for and try.

Founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, Yalumba is Australia’s oldest family owned vineyard. Composition of this certified organic wine is 97% Shiraz with 3% Viognier and the winemaker is Heather Fraser.

Enjoyed this at a recent O’Donovan’s wine event where our host was Jane Ferrari of Yalumba. Didn’t waste any time and got in a small supply the very next day! Very Highly Recommended!

Festival at Franciscan Well

The Franciscan Well Festival

Enjoyed my afternoon at the Franciscan Well Festival. Loads of choice with beers and cider from all over. The Festival continues tomorrow Sunday from 2.00pm. Get on down!

Top right: Yours truly and Caroline of 8 Degrees; bottom left: Ronan
Brennan of Galway Hooker and Daniel Emerson of Stonewell Cider.

Amuse Bouche

When night fell, all gathered together around the table, where smoked the Christmas dinner....  The roast goose, stuffed with potatoes and onions, the pig’s head, garlanded with curly cabbage, a piece of salt beef, and an abundance of potatoes was, and is, the never-changing menu in these humble, Christian households. In places where there is a little more pretension, a rice pudding, plentifully sprinkled with currants, or a plum pudding, is in much request. And then the decks are cleared for action; and the great Christmas cake, black with raisins, is surrounded and steamed by smoking tumblers of punch....

From Glenanaar by Canon PA Sheehan.
My (Amateur) Note: book published 1905, events described therein took place late 1830s

Bramley Lodge, Busy as Ever

Bramley Lodge, Busy as Ever

Made my first visit in about three years to Bramley Lodge  this week and great to see the restaurant and food store as busy as ever. Excellent food here and the prices are pretty good too.

Chicken

Not to mention the service. We decided to share a dessert and our waitress diplomatically manoeuvred the dish to the exact centre of the table, giving rise to a laugh and a bit of banter. And why not? By all means take your food seriously but enjoy the eating side of it.

Virtually every time, I pass Bramley, just off on the Carrigtwohill and Cobh junction on the N25 (was supposed to be called the East Cork Parkway but that name never caught on), the car park and the restaurant looks full. Indeed, quite often the cars are lined up along the side of the roads. Make no mistake, it is a popular spot and is now open for evening meals on Friday and Saturday.

Rarely go out for breakfast, so I visited there for lunch. And there is a terrific choice here, a choice that changes daily. As is often the case I picked a fish main course: Oven Baked Hake with an Herb and Almond Crust served with vegetables and potatoes and a lemon butter sauce (€13.95). Well priced, well cooked and well presented.

Hake

And much the same could be said about the other main course at our table: Just like the Hake dish, the Marinated Supreme of Chicken is worth a try; this is served with Cashel Blue cheese and mushroom sauce, not forgetting the vegetables and potatoes (€12.95).

With an evening dinner already in preparation, there was some debate about the dessert, hence the decision to share the dessert: Bakewell Tart. This is a gem and indeed would be quite a dish for a single person. It is a very special one here as it won Bramley a Great Taste Gold Star in 2011. Not the only award winner in the stable as their Paté also came good in 2012.

As you enter the restaurant, you will see a small flock of hens in their run off to the right. This underlines the philosophy here, which is to make the best of local products. Ardsallagh Goats cheese, fish from Ballycotton seafood, eggs from Riverview and black pudding from Clonakilty (they do a mean black pudding burger, I’m told) are among the local producers supported. And you may also sample the excellent craft beers of the Dungarvan Brewing Company here.

Well worth a stop if you’re heading east (or west, of course) and worth a detour if you’re not.

Ready. Steady. Grow!

Ready. Steady. Grow!

The food aficionados amongst you might be interested in the 2013 innocent sow & grow campaign! You can check out innocent’s ‘little greenies’ – a group of young gardeners who want to get kids their own age sowing & growing all around Ireland.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDvaJ4Wm4PU

Help share the YouTube video and in turn the good, green-growing news to help get 25,000 kids around Ireland sowing & growing their own vegetables.

More details here

Many Rooms at the Mabel Crawford Bistro

Mabel Crawford Bistro

Crayfish salad

Strawberry and Raspberry Meringue Roulade

Tuna

It was busy busy as we pulled into the Fitzgerald’s Vienna Woods Hotel last Saturday night for dinner at the Mabel Crawford Bistro. Cars all over the place; the main car park was full, the overflow was full and we just about found a space in the overflow to the overflow.

With such a crowd about, I was wondering what would it be like inside. No problem whatsoever. They had a wedding, a funeral and a christening but that made no impact on the restaurant as service was friendly, efficient and not lacking in any way at all.

Have you ever been to Mabel’s? It is pretty unusual in that it is a series of linked rooms, rooms of different sizes and decor. So whether you are two or twenty, they’ll find a room for you. This part of the building is over 200 years old and was the Crawford family kitchen back then, no doubt cooking up lots of local produce.

And that local element is as strong as ever under the Fitzgeralds and head chef Declan Mason. O’Connell Meats supply the beef. The fish is delivered fresh daily by Good Fish. Fruit and Vegetables are sourced locally and delivered fresh every morning from Waterfall Farm. They bake some of the breads themselves and the rest is supplied by Twomey’s Bakery. Hadn’t hear about this before but they do have a Guaranteed Irish Menu, four courses for twenty five euro.

There is a huge choice here and after much deliberation we tucked into our chosen starters. I went for the Salad of Steamed Crayfish, tossed with sautéed baby new potatoes, pineapple, red peppers and coated with a sweet chilli and coriander dressing.

It was a terrific combination of flavours and textures as was that chosen by CL: Chilled Duo of Galia & Cantaloupe Melon served with a Melody of Seasonal Fruits, and a Shot glass of tangy Red Berry Coulis. Colourful and tasty.

On then to the mains and more success. The regular menus are supplemented on a daily basis by a long list of specials. Always worth studying the specials and CL was very happy with her choice: The Grilled Fillet of Lemon Sole, served with prawn, tomatoes and parsley butter.

I spotted Tuna Steak on the regular menu and said I’d go for it even though I was a little worried it might be on the dry side. But not a bit of it. It was moist and absolutely gorgeous. The full description: The Seared Fresh Tuna Steak (Cooked to your liking), and served with Roasted Vine Cherry Tomato, Prawn & Caper Herb Butter (a lovely sauce).

So there you have it, both of us happy out as we say. And soon we were out in the cold and heading home but no sign of other bigger parties heading for their particular hills.

"Great first course for the wine enthusiast"

Gary O'Donovan, of O'Donovan's Off Licences, continues his busy Spring schedule with a Level 1 (Foundation) Wine Course that will take place in The Clarion Hotel on Saturday 13th April.

This is a great introductory first course for the wine enthusiast who wishes to be introduced in a structured way to wine styles, storing and
serving of wine, plus food and wine matching.   This qualification aims to provide basic product knowledge and skills in the service and retail of wine to prepare a person for their first job in hospitality or retail.

Cost €150
9.00am – 5.00pm Sat 13th April
The Clarion Hotel
Contact Deirdre on  0214296060 or deirdre@odonovansofflicence.com to book your place.