Macabeo. Little known but a winner here.

Macabeo. Little known but a winner here.

Cariñena is one of Spain's most traditional wine-producing regions. Soil is poor with short bush vines on unirrigated land that barely receive any treatment due to the 7 months of “Cierzo” wind which constantly hit this region and where the grape ripens more slowly, allowing all its potential to be fullfilled.

The Macabeo grape has had a hard time getting itself known beyond the North of Spain. Macabeu and Maccabéo are other names for this grape also grown on the French side of the mountains. More of you will know it better as Viura, the main white grape in La Rioja.

Macabeo is the Spanish name though and I’ve got a 1997 Wine Encyclopaedia (American, by the way) in my hands and it makes no mention of the grape. Fast forward to 2012 and there is no mention in Oz Clarke’s Handbook.

Even in Hugh Johnson’s 2012 Pocket Book, it is included and described as “the workhorse white grape of Northern Spain” though, in fairness, he acknowledges its “Good quality potential”. Much of that potential has been realised in this bottle.

For more on this interesting variety check this article by Jancis Robinson: the Cinderella Grape

El Circo Macabeo 2012, Cariñena DO, 12.5%, €9.99 to €10.99, Stockists.

Colour is light gold with an aromatic nose. It is full of gorgeous white fruit but, don’t fear, the flavours don’t overwhelm and indeed the wine is really well balanced with a terrific finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Fontanario de Pegoes 2012, Palmela DO (Portugal), 12.5%, 10.99 to 11.99, stockists

Only the fairly serious wine students will know of the grapes used in this white. It is based mainly on the Fernao Pires variety with a touch of Arinto.

It is a strawy colour with tints of green. Nose is quite aromatic, summer fruits and traces of herbs. The young fruit has a pleasant and moderate input to the overall experience. The wine is light and refreshing, ideal on its own or with fish dishes and salads. Recommended.

East Cork. Well Worth A Visit!

In Praise Of East Cork. Well Worth A Visit!

Ballycotton cliff walk

 Many writers routinely extol the attractions of West Cork and its friendly people. That friendly bit annoys. As if, somewhere between Kinsale and Glounthaune, you draw a line between the friendly natives and the unfriendly.

But we know down here that East Cork is a gem of a place to visit and, yes, the people are just as friendly. From the fantastic 13^th century St Mary’s Collegiate Church  in Youghal to high class Fota House Gardens and Arboretum, with Barryscourt Castle in between, all free to enter, there is a treasure chest of places to visit in the area.

Chowder at Charlie Mac's

Let me take you on a day trip to see some of it. We’ll also enjoy some food  as East Cork is a foodie’s paradise with top notch restaurants including Barnabrow  (ideal for a Sunday lunch), Midleton’s pioneering Farmers Market and the food mecca of Ballymaloe. 

Youghal market

 Coming from the city on the main Cork-Waterford road, take the Cobh exit ramp and head for breakfast at Bramley Lodge.  Now, set up for the morning, go over the nearby bridge to Fota Island and its many attractions.

All tied up in Cobh

 If you have kids, go the Wildlife Park; if not, walk through the renowned Fota Arboretum  and maybe add a tour of the Georgian House. If you like it around here, you may also try the high class  Fota Island Hotel and Golf Resort. 

Ballymaloe free range cockerel

 Moving on, go over the Belvelly Bridge and you find yourself on Great Island where the cathedral town of Cobh is situated. Much to do here including the Sirius Art Gallery, walking tours (including the Titanic Trail), harbourside bars and restaurants and of course the Cobh Heritage Centre which tells of forced deportations  and also the tales of the ill fated liners, The Titanic and the Lusitania. Cruise liners now call here regularly.

Woodland walk in Killeagh (Glenbower Wood)

 Time now to head out of the islands and bear east for Midleton and a tour of the Jameson Experience. If you give the right answers here, you’ll end up with a certificate of proficiency in Whiskey!

Midleton food market. Natives are friendly!

 You may have lunch at the distillery cafe here. I have two favourites just outside: Raymond’s and Sage. There are many more, not forgetting Pat Shortt’s Bar  in nearby Castlemartyr. Prefer a pizza? Then try San Marco's in Midleton.

Fota arboretum

Next stop is Ballymaloe, the home of modern Irish food. You could spend a day here but, with time getting scarce, take a look at the impressive Cookery School gardens and call to the cafe for a mid afternoon coffee.

In the seaside village of Ballycotton, take a stroll down to the pier  and see the fishermen come and go. If you feel you need to stretch the legs, then there is a spectacular walk along the cliff tops.

Hake at Bramley Lodge lunch.

Time now for dinner.  Head back towards the city and make a stop at the estuary village of Glounthaune and the Rising Tide Bar Bistro. Enjoy your meal here, as Lady Gaga did, and take time for a deserved pint in the bar afterwards. An alternative is the Mabel Crawford bistro in the nearby Vienna Woods Hotel.

If heading east, then you’ll find a fine seafood dinner at Aherne’s in Youghal. If going north, why not drop into Charlie Mac’s  in Fermoy where French chef Fred will feed you well.

* Revised from original article 18 April 2011

Organic treat from Yalumba

Yalumba Organic Shiraz 2011 (South Australia), 13.5%, O’Donovan’s Off Licences

Colour is a deep red and on the nose there are sweet dark red fruits. Flavours are quite intense on the palate with spices and pepper. Fruit driven for sure yet there is a lovely softness here and a gorgeous savoury finish. Definitely one to look out for and try.

Founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, Yalumba is Australia’s oldest family owned vineyard. Composition of this certified organic wine is 97% Shiraz with 3% Viognier and the winemaker is Heather Fraser.

Enjoyed this at a recent O’Donovan’s wine event where our host was Jane Ferrari of Yalumba. Didn’t waste any time and got in a small supply the very next day! Very Highly Recommended!

Festival at Franciscan Well

The Franciscan Well Festival

Enjoyed my afternoon at the Franciscan Well Festival. Loads of choice with beers and cider from all over. The Festival continues tomorrow Sunday from 2.00pm. Get on down!

Top right: Yours truly and Caroline of 8 Degrees; bottom left: Ronan
Brennan of Galway Hooker and Daniel Emerson of Stonewell Cider.

Amuse Bouche

When night fell, all gathered together around the table, where smoked the Christmas dinner....  The roast goose, stuffed with potatoes and onions, the pig’s head, garlanded with curly cabbage, a piece of salt beef, and an abundance of potatoes was, and is, the never-changing menu in these humble, Christian households. In places where there is a little more pretension, a rice pudding, plentifully sprinkled with currants, or a plum pudding, is in much request. And then the decks are cleared for action; and the great Christmas cake, black with raisins, is surrounded and steamed by smoking tumblers of punch....

From Glenanaar by Canon PA Sheehan.
My (Amateur) Note: book published 1905, events described therein took place late 1830s

Bramley Lodge, Busy as Ever

Bramley Lodge, Busy as Ever

Made my first visit in about three years to Bramley Lodge  this week and great to see the restaurant and food store as busy as ever. Excellent food here and the prices are pretty good too.

Chicken

Not to mention the service. We decided to share a dessert and our waitress diplomatically manoeuvred the dish to the exact centre of the table, giving rise to a laugh and a bit of banter. And why not? By all means take your food seriously but enjoy the eating side of it.

Virtually every time, I pass Bramley, just off on the Carrigtwohill and Cobh junction on the N25 (was supposed to be called the East Cork Parkway but that name never caught on), the car park and the restaurant looks full. Indeed, quite often the cars are lined up along the side of the roads. Make no mistake, it is a popular spot and is now open for evening meals on Friday and Saturday.

Rarely go out for breakfast, so I visited there for lunch. And there is a terrific choice here, a choice that changes daily. As is often the case I picked a fish main course: Oven Baked Hake with an Herb and Almond Crust served with vegetables and potatoes and a lemon butter sauce (€13.95). Well priced, well cooked and well presented.

Hake

And much the same could be said about the other main course at our table: Just like the Hake dish, the Marinated Supreme of Chicken is worth a try; this is served with Cashel Blue cheese and mushroom sauce, not forgetting the vegetables and potatoes (€12.95).

With an evening dinner already in preparation, there was some debate about the dessert, hence the decision to share the dessert: Bakewell Tart. This is a gem and indeed would be quite a dish for a single person. It is a very special one here as it won Bramley a Great Taste Gold Star in 2011. Not the only award winner in the stable as their Paté also came good in 2012.

As you enter the restaurant, you will see a small flock of hens in their run off to the right. This underlines the philosophy here, which is to make the best of local products. Ardsallagh Goats cheese, fish from Ballycotton seafood, eggs from Riverview and black pudding from Clonakilty (they do a mean black pudding burger, I’m told) are among the local producers supported. And you may also sample the excellent craft beers of the Dungarvan Brewing Company here.

Well worth a stop if you’re heading east (or west, of course) and worth a detour if you’re not.

Ready. Steady. Grow!

Ready. Steady. Grow!

The food aficionados amongst you might be interested in the 2013 innocent sow & grow campaign! You can check out innocent’s ‘little greenies’ – a group of young gardeners who want to get kids their own age sowing & growing all around Ireland.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDvaJ4Wm4PU

Help share the YouTube video and in turn the good, green-growing news to help get 25,000 kids around Ireland sowing & growing their own vegetables.

More details here

Many Rooms at the Mabel Crawford Bistro

Mabel Crawford Bistro

Crayfish salad

Strawberry and Raspberry Meringue Roulade

Tuna

It was busy busy as we pulled into the Fitzgerald’s Vienna Woods Hotel last Saturday night for dinner at the Mabel Crawford Bistro. Cars all over the place; the main car park was full, the overflow was full and we just about found a space in the overflow to the overflow.

With such a crowd about, I was wondering what would it be like inside. No problem whatsoever. They had a wedding, a funeral and a christening but that made no impact on the restaurant as service was friendly, efficient and not lacking in any way at all.

Have you ever been to Mabel’s? It is pretty unusual in that it is a series of linked rooms, rooms of different sizes and decor. So whether you are two or twenty, they’ll find a room for you. This part of the building is over 200 years old and was the Crawford family kitchen back then, no doubt cooking up lots of local produce.

And that local element is as strong as ever under the Fitzgeralds and head chef Declan Mason. O’Connell Meats supply the beef. The fish is delivered fresh daily by Good Fish. Fruit and Vegetables are sourced locally and delivered fresh every morning from Waterfall Farm. They bake some of the breads themselves and the rest is supplied by Twomey’s Bakery. Hadn’t hear about this before but they do have a Guaranteed Irish Menu, four courses for twenty five euro.

There is a huge choice here and after much deliberation we tucked into our chosen starters. I went for the Salad of Steamed Crayfish, tossed with sautéed baby new potatoes, pineapple, red peppers and coated with a sweet chilli and coriander dressing.

It was a terrific combination of flavours and textures as was that chosen by CL: Chilled Duo of Galia & Cantaloupe Melon served with a Melody of Seasonal Fruits, and a Shot glass of tangy Red Berry Coulis. Colourful and tasty.

On then to the mains and more success. The regular menus are supplemented on a daily basis by a long list of specials. Always worth studying the specials and CL was very happy with her choice: The Grilled Fillet of Lemon Sole, served with prawn, tomatoes and parsley butter.

I spotted Tuna Steak on the regular menu and said I’d go for it even though I was a little worried it might be on the dry side. But not a bit of it. It was moist and absolutely gorgeous. The full description: The Seared Fresh Tuna Steak (Cooked to your liking), and served with Roasted Vine Cherry Tomato, Prawn & Caper Herb Butter (a lovely sauce).

So there you have it, both of us happy out as we say. And soon we were out in the cold and heading home but no sign of other bigger parties heading for their particular hills.

"Great first course for the wine enthusiast"

Gary O'Donovan, of O'Donovan's Off Licences, continues his busy Spring schedule with a Level 1 (Foundation) Wine Course that will take place in The Clarion Hotel on Saturday 13th April.

This is a great introductory first course for the wine enthusiast who wishes to be introduced in a structured way to wine styles, storing and
serving of wine, plus food and wine matching.   This qualification aims to provide basic product knowledge and skills in the service and retail of wine to prepare a person for their first job in hospitality or retail.

Cost €150
9.00am – 5.00pm Sat 13th April
The Clarion Hotel
Contact Deirdre on  0214296060 or deirdre@odonovansofflicence.com to book your place.

Acton’s Return

Acton’s Return

 Lots of joy in Kinsale and surrounding areas at the return of Acton’s Hotel. Now a refurbished four star establishment, it reopened on Thursday March 14th and hit the ground running. Indeed, its value to the local business and tourist interests was underlined by the sell out figure for its first Saturday night.

On Saturday at breakfast, a proud staff member told me that the breakfast room would be so much busier on Sunday: “We have one and hundred fifty booked in.” Not bad at all for the first weekend, especially considering that the hotel had been under repair since the end of 2011.

Oh yes, that proud staff member wasn't an exception. We had received the warmest of welcomes at the impressive reception desk. Later in the bar, that friendly courtesy was very obvious.  And it continued right through to the breakfast room, another impressive facility here. Just loved it all the way.

Eggs Benedict

The Sidney dining room hadn't reopened at that point but the bar area was very busy with both food and drink. Our only food there was the breakfast and that was top notch. There is a terrific selection for both the Continental type and the Irish type, lots of quality choices.

The hotel looks very well both on the outside and inside. Our room was spacious and well equipped (the Wi-Fi worked without a hitch) and the bathroom too was excellent, big and fully equipped.

And the hotel is very central for the town itself. It is on the Pier Road and a very short stroll will take you into the middle, to the restaurant area. Places you might look out for are the Lemon Leaf (for breakfast, lunch cakes) and the newly opened Finn’s Table (a classy restaurant run by John and Julie Finn, ex Dillon’s). Janey Mac and Bruno’s were others on my list but I didn't get to them this time.

Breakfast: vegetarian option

We did make a short trip to the west though. First stop was the Old Head, all closed up at the moment, even the golf course is shut. But at least there are some fine views, both left and right, by the entrance. Then down to the beach, especially to Garrettstown for a walk and also to see the many surfers in action.

Over then to nearby Ballinspittle for a snack. Quite a snack actually, in the Diva Boutique Bakery and Cafe. Completed the round trip then by calling down to beautiful Sandycove on the way back to Kinsale.

Many reasons to visit this area and Acton’s is just the latest! Highly recommended.

Two Excellent Reds from Spain's Big Top

Two Excellent Reds from Spain

El Circo (The Circus)

Grandes Vinos  have launched a series of wines under the El Circo label, all from the Cariñena DO. Sampled two of the reds recently – they are imported by Wine Alliance – and I found the Tempranillo (one of my favourite grapes) and the Cabernet Sauvignon excellent, really good examples of the respective fruits. Both by the way are very well priced at between €9.99 and 10.99.

El Circo Tempranillo 2011, Spain, 13%, RRP €9.99 to10.99, Stockists

Dark plum and cherry on the nose and the colour is a dark red indeed. The same fruits show on the palate, the flavours smooth and delicious, and the finish is long and dry.

Picked from vineyards over forty years old, there is no mention of oak here but this is a very good example of the variety. Indeed, I reckon the young wine is on a par with quite a few Rioja crianzas.  The firm Grandes Vinos will already be familiar to many of you through their popular Beso de Vino range. Highly recommended.

El Circo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Spain, 13%, RRP €9.99 to 10.99, Stockists, 

Colour is a dark red with dark fruits on the nose. Forthright fruit flavours, plum and blackcurrant for me, but well balanced all the way to the longish dry finish. The assertive flavours (it has spent two months in oak) should mean this young fellow matches well with red meat dishes, particularly meats from the grill.

This is a really good example of Cabernet Sauvignon at a very good price indeed. Highly recommended.

Had to make an edit here as late yesterday afternoon El Circo had some good news on their facebook page: “El Circo Contorsionista has been awarded on the gold medal in Berliner Wein Trophy.”  Contorsionista is their circus nickname for the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Fish in the City: Oysters

Fish in the City: Oysters

Swordfish...

If you like your fish, then Oysters is the place to go in Cork City. Here, you can take your pick of the fish from the nearby Atlantic, fresh as fresh can be and superbly cooked in their excellent city centre restaurant in the Clarion Hotel.

Called in there this week to try out the €35.00 set menu. There is also an A La Carte menu and that is the next target. One thing I like about Oysters is the cloakroom. Your coats are put away and you can relax and read the menu at the spacious table and in your comfortable chair or seat, the place beautifully lit.

Chowder

They had a little Amuse Bouche for us: Tomato Gazpacho, a lively little shot of it, sufficient to wake up your taste buds. By now, we had settled on our choices and there are quite a few choices even on the €35.00 euro menu. We had also picked our wine, a carafe of Zimmer Riesling 2010 (€19.00) and we were also sampling some terrific breads and butters, one a combination of Fennell Seed and Thyme, the other a magnificent mix of Blue Cheese, White Fish and Sundried Tomatoes.

Soon, we were tucking into our starter. CL’s was probably the more enticing looking of the two: Duck (Croquette, Parfait, Beetroot, Pear, Candied Walnuts, Truffled Dressing, and Brioche). Superb plateful, some great flavours there especially the Candied Walnuts.

Hake

Mine mightn’t have looked that well but it sure tasted great: Swordfish - Ceviche, Mango, Avocado, Fennel, Lime Confit, Pistachio, Frisee Lettuce, Citrus Oil. A super thinly sliced cut and my fishy night was up and running. Surprisingly, they had no oysters available on the night! It can happen, I suppose. I remember a few years back, sitting at a sunny table on the waterfront in Baltimore and they had no mussels!

Anyway, that was soon forgotten and we were onto the soup course. Mine was the Oysters Seafood Chowder- Pancetta, Samphire, Potatoes and Light Bisque. Chunky bits and pieces of fish with all the other bits combining to give a really lovely combination. And much the same could be said about CL’s choice: Turnip and Parsnip Velouté- Chestnut, Cep Dust.

A nicely judged gap followed before the mains arrived. We had both picked the same one: Hake- Cep Agnolotti, Smoked Sausage, Oyster Mushroom, Samphire, Pine Nuts. Once again a superb combination of flavours and textures and it certainly looked well also. A side dish of potatoes was also appreciated.

Desserts selection

Riesling

And now again an appropriate pause before the desserts arrived, along with a couple of glasses of a dessert wine from Jurancon: Chateau Jolys 2009. Mine was Chocolate - Tart, Salted Caramel Mousse, White Chocolate & Banana Parfait, Sherry. Excellent, no shortage of chocolate but not too heavy either. CL settled for Chef’s Selection of Small Desserts, quite a winning selection indeed, especially that Champagne Sorbet.

So that was about it. Soon we had our coats on and heading out into the cool night. The restaurant, thanks to two big groups arriving in, was reasonably busy for a midweek stuck between bank holidays but bookings were flying in for the coming weekend. Popular place by the sound of it.

Diva Boutique Bakery Cafe. Big in Ballinspittle

Diva Boutique Bakery Cafe
Big in Ballinspittle

The Diva Wrap

 No mystery about the title Diva, the name of a bakery and foodstore on one side of the main Street in Ballinspittle and, on the other side, of a village cafe. Owner and founder Shannen Keane named it after a cafe in her native Seattle.

But there is a bit more to it, methinks. After all, some of the walls and some of the tables are plastered with black and white photos of real women from the forties and fifties, maybe some from the sixties, before that decade inflicted Twiggy and a forest of lookalikes on us.

All well and handy for slipping into a mini-dress or a mini-car but hardly robust enough for the farm! Our farmers did appreciate the diva size. I always remember being in a yard one day as one of the women hauled a couple of full buckets across the square with two old fellows watching. Her skirt had been hitched up for the milking and, when she bent over to drop the buckets for a rest, even more of her legs, perhaps the pale backs of the knees (God forbid!), was exposed. “Hasn’t she a fine pair of shafts*,” exclaimed one grizzled fellow to another.

The Diva BLT

Size is important here in this little cafe in Ballinspittle. They make big cakes, big sandwiches. Called in there the other day for lunch and was surprised to see it full. But they got us room, sharing a table with a guy who was working his mobile like mad. At an nearby table, another guy was engrossed in his laptop while all around couples and trebles and groups were noisily tucking in. Welcome to village life in Ireland 2013.

Quite a selection on the blackboard, though we were told they were only operating at half power, it being so early in the season. We were too late of course for the breakfast but no shortage of lunch choices.

CL went for the BLT and got quite a surprise when she found three or four big rashers tucked in between the slices of bread. Plenty of tomato as well and a big crunchy salad, no micro this or mini that here. All for less than seven euro.

I went upmarket, a bit, as my Chicken Wrap cost all of €7.95. Again it was substantial but so tasty. No shortage of tasty chicken and I too enjoyed that rustic salad. Quantity and quality. With so much to eat, we both went for the tea. Total cost €18.40 and they knocked the forty cent off. Only in Ballinspittle!

* The horse carriage or cart, once common in the Irish farmyard, was equipped with two (timber) shafts which ran along the horse's sides.  Example here.