Davitt’s of Kenmare, an excellent base

 Davitt’s of Kenmare, an excellent base

Kenmare in the evening

 Spent a few days in Kenmare recently. I was based in Davitt’s  in Henry Street and am glad to say it was a delight to stay there. We had a lovely welcome and our upstairs room, away from the street, was spacious and, with two big skylights, quite bright as was the spotless bathroom. Just in case you don’t like too much light, I’d better let you know the windows had pull-down blackout blinds!

Kenmare in the evening (2)

We had prior dining arrangements for the evenings but thoroughly enjoyed our breakfasts, not least the friendly chats with Mary. She told us that they have been there about 14 years. The well kept place, which also includes a restaurant and bar, is a credit to them. The feeling of space applies throughout and even the corridors along the different flights of bedrooms are well lit compared to higher classed accommodation. Just to finish off about the breakfasts, I must say that the choices were huge, everything from the Full Irish to cereals and seeds and yoghurts and fruits and juices, virtually anything you’d want really.

Parking was no problem to us in the middle of February but could be one later in the year, though that applies to Kenmare as a whole. Davitt’s do have a small area at the back and we used that all the time but it is really small. The parking on-street is by meter and there are some good car parks not too far away. Still, if you’re hauling cases, go to the back if you’re not lucky enough to get a spot on the street outside.

Kenmare in the morning

Kenmare itself is a lively town with some great hotels and restaurants, more than you’d think. It is also a terrific base for local touring. Indeed, it gives you a gateway both to the Ring of Kerry and to the Ring of Beara. Walking, cycling or driving, you’ll be well placed for some of the best scenery in Ireland.

And watch out too for terrific local festivals. Mary was very enthusiastic about the traditional gathering there on the 15th of August and a newer one, the Kenmare Food Carnival , is also attracting the crowds and this year’s event is scheduled for the 12th to 14th of July.

By the way, if you need a taxi while in Kenmare, you could try A1 Taxis (087 2910584 and 087 3560011). Davitt's booked them for us for one trip and we found them friendly and efficient and their fares seemed reasonable.

Fatty Wangs – best for salted jackass!

Fatty Wangs – best for salted jackass!

Chief Chowzter

Just to let you guys know – I’ve got a brand new hangout on the net. No, it’s not Fatty Wangs. It’s a new up and coming foodie app called Chowzter and its aim is to provide the punter with a regularly updated list of the best dishes in the area. Chains and chandeliers are ruled out but that leaves a lot of good food in between. 

Chowzter is just taking its first steps but already regions such as North America, Latin America, Asia Pacific, Europe and Africa are represented. Europe is possibly under-represented at the moment but still cities from Brighton to Seville are covered and so too is Cork (where I come into the picture).

Chowzter is committed to finding the tastiest food item on earth each year. “We seek out and support the local independent food purveyor and locally sourced ingredients.” Read the short mission statement here. 

While we are waiting for the full lift-off, Chowzter has been having some fun with its bloggers. Latest team effort has been an attempt to find the best sandwich in the world. There have been nominations from all over: Train Wreck Po Boy from Philly, the Hire Katsu Sando from Tokyo, the Vietnamese Sandwich from Saigon, the Choripán from Argentina, theKoKoreç from Istanbul. And then that Donkey sandwich from Beijing!

I’ll let Lillian Chou explain:

“I'm in Palawan now but back in Beijing tomorrow and will say the Shanxi ‘roujiamo’ which is available all over Beijing as a locally made bread that is stuffed with slow braised fatty pork shoulder that’s hand chopped while cooking liquid is slowly ladled onto the meat to keep it moist, then fresh green pepper (sweet) and cilantro is mixed in and it goes into the bun. In some restos, you can order extra fatty or regular lean.

Another option which is simply stunning is the Donkey sandwich. Yes, sliced salted jackass is piled on a crisp handmade bun that's been split open and piled with cilantro. The result is something like a corned beef because it's either room temp or slightly warm and the biggest surprise that's delish. The best shop is Fatty Wang's.”

So there you go! Might not be able to get you a Donkey Sandwich here, though the way things are going, better never say never. But we’ll do our best to bring you the best dishes locally.

Coming soon: Bordeaux to Ballymaloe

Visit of Jean-Charles Cazes, of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, and the Cazes Family Selection Wines, to Ballymaloe on Sunday, 10th March 2013

The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 6.30pm, Sunday 10th March €18

Wine tasting & presentation, by Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of different wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages. Advance booking strongly advised. Special rates also available for accommodation.

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe: "We are delighted to be welcoming Jean-Charles to Ballymaloe, in association with Michael Barry and all the team at Barry & Fitzwilliam. Château Lynch-Bages, needs no introduction in Ireland – one of the best known, respected, collected and followed, of the ‘Irish Wine Geese’ Château of Bordeaux. Born in Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes grew up in Pauillac in the heart of the family vineyards at Château Lynch Bages, and since 2006, taking over from his father, Jean-Michel Cazes, he has been in charge of all the family vineyards, in France and abroad."

 (The tasting and presentation in The Grain Store is followed by a wine dinner in the dining room in Ballymaloe House, with Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages, at Ballymaloe House 8.30pm €95 **Please note, the dinner is now waitlisted– but please do leave details if you would like to be contacted in case there are cancellations (there are still places available for the presentation |& tasting in the Grain Store at 6.30pm) **)

As part of The Gathering 2013, there will also be a series of other wine events, which are being planned for Cork City and County, throughout the year, with many other ‘Irish Wine Geese’ winemakers from all over the wine world, ‘flying home’ Further details here on this link: www.bringingthewinegeesehome.com

Amuse Bouche

He stowed a bottle of the local rotgut called Five Island Gin – nicknamed Five Ulcer Gin – in radioman Harry Brooks’s gas mask holster. When an MP* tapped Brooks’s hip to check for the mask, the bottle broke and left Brooks with a soggy leg. It was probably for the best. Louie noticed that when he drank the stuff, his chest hair spontaneously fell out. He later discovered that Five Island Gin was often used as a paint thinner. After that, he stuck to beer.
- From Unbroken by Laura Hillenbrand.
* Military Policeman.

Treyvaud’s, a Killarney Gem

Treyvaud’s, a Killarney Gem

Treyvaud’s is a gem among Kerry restaurants, a friendly place, noted for its fantastic game night. Paul is the friendly face of Treyvaud’s, starring in numerous food videos on You Tube  (in one, he takes a chain saw to a deer carcase!) and also the author of a book about the business. Paul and brother Mark run the High Street restaurant that is open for both lunch and dinner.

Walked in the last Saturday at lunch-time and thought we’d be on our own, the main reason being that at least half the town were up the country supporting the local football team. But Paul was expecting them back that evening as bookings were strong. And, as it turned out, numbers at lunch also picked up.

Chowder

There were three of us, including one local who likes the place and says she never has any fear of recommending it. And as we went through the meal, we could see why.

The two ladies started with the soup (5.95) while I choose the Chowder (7.50). This was described as Fresh Seafood Chowder with a melody of shrimp, mussels, and salmon served with homemade bread By the time I reached the end of the deep bowl, I was singing the praises of this gorgeous “melody”.

The Lunch Menu is divided in various sections, including Nibbles, Sambos, Mark’s Specials and Tasty Salads. Treyvaud’s Fish Cakes (with wholegrain mustard and garlic Aioli) lurked among the Nibbles and were promptly seized upon by the two ladies and that meant I had two happy diners alongside me.

I was really tempted by the four dishes under Mark’s Specials and eventually picked the first: Treyvaud’s Homemade pie with Mashed Potato. Some beautiful meat here under a perfect cover of spud, quantity and quality combined to make yet another happy customer.

We had started with some very tasty breads and finished off the very enjoyable meal with excellent coffees.
So, if you ever find yourself wandering around Killarney looking for food, I can certainly recommend Treyvauds.

62 High Street
Killarney, Co Kerry
Phone (064) 663 3062
Email info@treyvaudsrestaurant.com
Website http://www.treyvaudsrestaurant.com
Mon: 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm
Tue - Thu: 12:00 pm - 10:00 pm
Fri - Sat: 12:00 pm - 10:30 pm
Sun: 12:00 pm - 10:00 pm

Yalumba’s Ferrari wows Cork Supper Club

Yalumba’s Ferrari wows Cork Supper Club

Yalumba’s Jane Ferrari was the star of the show at the O’Donovan Off Licence Cork Supper Club in Club Brasserie this week. The well travelled Aussie had some great wines from the venerable but vibrant Barossa winery and some terrific yarns and observations from her years there and on the road.

Well she did say it was full of spring blossom!

Gary O’Donovan opened the evening, welcoming one and all to the "continuing adventure" that wine is. Don’t get stuck in a groove was Gary’s advice and promised that the evening would be a great chance to try something new. And so it proved.

We had been welcomed with a choice of either the Y series Vermentino (2011) or the Merlot (also 2011) and then had three tasting before the multi-course meal began.

 

Loved the Organic South Australian Viognier (2011) and the excellent Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling (2010) but really fell for the Organic South Australian Shiraz 2011 (and just picked up my order at the local branch today!).

Founded 1849

Jane, in her admittedly “ugly broad Australian accent”, told us that Yalumba was founded in 1849, that she herself started in winemaking and has worked in every part of the business. Ten years ago, she started on the road, selling Yalumba all over the world.

It wasn't always easy for the Smith family, the Yalumba owners. Nor for their employees! Back in the tough times of the 80s, the winery was at risk, saved only by an agreed four year pay pause. Apparently, that particular piece of austerity paid off.

It was a very enjoyable evening in Club Brasserie. The courses flowed and so too did the wines with the starters accompanied by a smashing Chardonnay, this the Eden Valley Wild Ferment 2009.

 Some serious stuff followed. Those that took the fish course, were served the Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier 2008, “a wine of finesse, opulence with layers of complexity and lusciousness”, yet all in a restrained combination.


Those eating the steak enjoyed the Signature Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (2008). “This is my favourite of the things we do,” said Jane, telling us that the signature is of a different person each year.

This one belongs to Judy Argent who came to work there for her summer holidays in 1977 and is still there. It is a magnificent wine, combining great power and elegance.


And still more wine followed. The Cheese plate was matched with the soft and fruity characteristics of the Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet 2003 while the dessert came with the “sticky”, The Yalumba Museum Muscat.

The very pleasant evening ended on a light note, not that it was ever heavy, when Gary tried to “dig” a little deeper to see what Jane really thinks. Oh by the way, we never had a problem with that ugly broad accent and everyone loved her broad sense of humour.

Gary asked her what her favourite thing about New Zealand was. “Leaving,” was the lightning response. Her favourite politician? “The best looking.” He also quizzed her on her “crush” on Ronan O’Gara. She confirmed that it was still alive and kicking, just like the international career of the player himself, “there is life in the old dog yet” she said.

Then it was off to bed for Jane though not before she managed a few paragraphs in her blog. Check it out here.

• This was a terrific wine evening, thanks to Jane, to O’Donovan’s team and to Brian Hogan of Cassidy Wine Merchants and to Club Brasserie. Keep an eye on O’Donovan’s Facebook page for future events. https://www.facebook.com/odonovansofflicences?fref=ts

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Curious Crush

Just been working my way through the Spring edition of First Crush, the Curious Wine Club Magazine. The cover makes it plain that the Kinsale Road outfit are not taking the budget increases lying down and they have come out fighting, taking the gloves off for sure with 20 per cent reductions on their wines from Italy, New Zealand and Bordeaux!

Once upon a time, it was difficult to get a good white wine from Spain but times have changed. Verdejo and Albarino are now popular white wine grapes and Curious have an excellent example of the first one in Real Castel Rueda Verdejo (11.99), so popular among their customers that it made their Top Ten Whites for 2012.

I attended a Curious Wines dinner in the Cornstore last year and one of the most popular wines on the night was the Gavin Quinney made Château Bauduc Les Trois Hectares Semillon  (reduced to 14.39). Unusual to see Semillon (80%) carrying a European wine but this is a gem, aromatic, long and complex.

There is a rather nice Italian section in the magazine, featuring the Dievole estate and the Sangiovese grape. That got my attention, along with the 20 per cent off of course. Curious have a short list of five to try and the two that caught my eye were the Dievole Dievolino Sangiovese IGT 2009  (down from 13.99 to 11.19) and the Gregorina Sangiovese Superiore (reduced to 11.59).

And then there is Bordeaux, again with twenty per cent off. Back to Gavin Quinney again for one of my red picks here, the Chateau Bauduc Close de Quinze 2010 , another of the stars of that dinner at the Cornstore and even more attractive now that the price is cut from 17.99 to 14.39.

With all those savings, might be time to spash out. Must admit I know very little about the Chateau Cardinal-Villemaurine Sainte Emilion Gran Cru 2008  (20.00) but there is a fiver off and it is stamped as a best buy.


Wagamama Cook-off

Mighty Munster players line-out against the Mallow youngsters for the great Wagamama cook-off! This takes place on Tuesday February 26th (9.00am) and the venue is Wagamama, 4/5 South Main Street, Cork. Read more here.

Hamburger Macaron?

Beef patty is a hazelnut sponge cake covered in a dark chocolate ganache, the cheese is actually a thick slice of caramel chocolate, and the buns are two huge caramel macarons, all stuck together with more chocolate caramel. Not only that, its actual size is that of a small hamburger. This is sweet tooth heaven!! I love bubo!!!! See the pic here.

All the way from Turin, we have Romanian cuisine.

Galway Food Festival

28 March - 01 April 2013

The Galway Food Festival - even bigger and better in its second year and featuring an extended five day programme of fantastic food and free, family-friendly events in Galway on the Easter Bank Holiday Weekend. Read more about this and other food festivals here.

The Strawberry Field

The Strawberry Field

Sneem

On the road from Sneem (Co. Kerry) to Moll’s Gap, there is a place called A Strawberry Field  where you will find Pancake Cottage, which is open all year round. The views from the garden are splendid but not so last Saturday as the rain was coming and going.

Warm inside Pancake Cottage

We had earlier called to Sneem for a quick walk around, having a look at only some the many sculptures in the little town and also at the river as it rushed under the bridge. Then we took that rising road and enjoyed some decent views, despite the cloud kissing the mountain tops.

The Garden

The Strawberry Field is nearer Moll’s Gap than Sneem and is on the left hand side. We just had time for a cup of coffee (Illy) and never got to the pancakes. And that may be just as well as we’d have definitely missed our appointment in Killarney.

Pancake Cottage

The selection of toppings just goes on and on, sweet and savoury and also a kids menu. Our friend in Killarney told us she stopped there once for one and ended up eating a series, her ultimate destination never reached. It is that kind of place.

The Lakes

There is some home-baking here also, including scones and a traditional Dutch apple pie, good teas and coffees and soft drinks, including water from their own well, soup also. In addition, there is a side room that contains a little craft shop, with photos, paintings and craft products for sale.

But we resisted, promising ourselves we’d call again, and headed on to Moll’s Gap and eventually to our meeting in Killarney and a lovely lunch in Treyvaud’s. Not a bad half-day’s work!

Warm Welcome in Mulcahy’s

Warm Welcome in Mulcahy’s

Walked in off the cold of Henry Street to the warmth of Mulcahy’s Restaurant one evening last week. For a second or two, thought there was no one home but that was just the dim lighting in the Kenmare restaurant.

The cold outside was soon forgotten and, after a warm welcome, we were shown to our comfortable seats and, now accustomed to the lighting (it wasn't that dim!), began to study the menu, with the helpful staff reminding us of the specials board and also advising us of one or two minor changes.

Sampled a couple of tasty breads as we began to make our minds up and indeed there was also a lovely Amuse Bouche, goats cheese and beetroot, delivered to the table.

There were seven or eight starters to choose from, including the soup at €5.50. I picked the Hen Egg, twice cooked, Asparagus, Iberico Ham and Garlic Hollandaise (€7.50). Quite a combination of tastes and textures but really well balanced. The other starter also went down very well indeed. It was that bit different: Cannelloni, Prawn, Salmon and Lobster, Bisque, and Parmesan (11.00). 

They use a great deal of local produce here and fish is obviously going to feature strongly. Again there were seven of eight choices for mains and three were fish: Halibut, Scallop and Lemon Sole. We weren’t complaining. On the contrary!

Halibut doesn’t feature that much on local menus so this was my pick: Roast Halibut, Mussel, Bacon and Clam Cream (26.00). Excellent, as was the side dish of vegetables and potato, included in the price.

The same veg was included in CL’s choice: Lemon Sole with Tomato Brown Butter (22.00).  This is cooked on the bone and served whole. Takes a bit more “work” with the knife and fork but well worth it!

Each of the desserts on the short list costs seven euro, though you’ll pay two more for the cheese plate. Some interesting choices here and I gave it a bit of thought before picking the Rhubarb Mille Feuille. The photo will give you an idea with the rhubarb, in a form of ice cream, between the pastry layers. Very enjoyable, a kind of low key sweet and sharp! CL went for the equally delicious Passion fruit Soufflé with Honeycomb ice cream.

Finished off with a cup of tea. They were out of my favourite Rooibos so I switched to Earl Grey and that was no hardship! There is a big enough wine list here, with some expensive ones, but I settled for a glass of a crisp De Martino Sauvignon Blanc (Chile) that went well with the fish.

Head Chef Bruce Mulcahy is back and Mulcahy’s are once again known as Mulcahy’s with the short-lived Wild Garlic title now redundant. So there you have it. To find them, go to Henry Street, Kenmare, though you may have to park some distance away as the town is short on parking spaces.


36 Henry Street, Kenmare
Hours Thu - Sun: 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm
Phone (064) 664 2383

Enjoyable Eating at BT Dublin

Eating at BT Dublin

Parmesan crusted chicken

Shop ‘til you drop they say but there really is no need to go that far, especially if you are in the Brown Thomas Store in Dublin. Here they have a superb in-house restaurant on the third level, run by the sisters Peaches and Domini Kemp. It is a stylish bright area with stylish bright food but the style is always accompanied by a genuine substance, much of the food locally sourced. Service is really excellent and the seating is comfortable, toilets nearby.

Had a lovely lunch there recently. Had a great mix on the plate: Parmesan crusted free-range Irish chicken, sautéed potatoes, shallot and tomato dressing, and rocket. At €17.50 it was the most expensive dish on the menu but well worth it.

Goat cheese salad

Warm Fivemiletown Goat Cheese salad with Puy Lentils, roast beetroot, baby spinach, micro herbs and roast hazelnuts was another lovely plateful, priced at €15.90, and thoroughly enjoyed by CL. They have a great choice of mains, including Pasta of the Day, Asian spiced crab cakes and Soy and Ginger glazed salmon.

CL went for the healthy dessert option, quite a colourful and tasty one: Raw energy fruit salad – pineapple, mango, grapes, melon and mixed berries (6.90). I didn’t have the energy for that so settled for large cookie and a great cup of coffee. Back to the shopping after that enjoyable interlude!

By the way, the Kemp sisters also run the restaurant in the Brown Thomas store in Cork. Must check it out!

On the way west? Fill up at Manning's!

If you're heading for the Healy Pass, call to Manning's in Ballylickey to fuel up.
Full story and more pics here

Top Irish Beers at Bradley’s

Top Irish Beers at Bradley’s

Blackrock stout
at the Cliff Town House

While in Bradley’s recently (always recently!), I had an enjoyable chat with Michael Creedon about the amount of Irish beers now on the market and we began to discuss our favourites and also the top selling beers from the dozens and dozens available in the North Main Street store.

So we went to work on a few lists but decided to leave out seasonal beers, which we both enjoy. In the past couple of months, I was delighted whenever I had a glass of A Winter’s Ale (8 Degree Brewing) or one of the Dungarvan Coffee and Oatmeal Stout in my hand. Draught beers – the Tom Crean lager and the Franciscan Well’s Friar Weisser are among my current favourites – were also left out of these lists.

When it comes to bottled Irish, I have a grá for the black stuff. The boys out in Blair’s introduced me to the Blackrock Stout by the Dungarvan Brewing Company the best part of a year back and it has been a firm favourite since.

And it was in Blair’s also that I met the folks from the West Kerry Brewing Company. I had already made the acquaintance of their Carraig Dubh porter and that too is building up into a long term relationship.

When it comes to ales, I have a preference for the wheat beers. Not too many bottled in Ireland but one that is and one that I really like is Curim by the Carlow Brewing Company.

Don’t think I’ve really made up my mind about a favourite among the regular ales. The current top choice is the Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale but I’m open to offers!

 In any case, I mustn’t be drinking enough of them as none of mine have made the best sellers list in Bradley’s where the current top four selling Irish craft beers are:

O’Hara’s Irish Pale Ale (abv 5.2%)
This pale ale has a light malt base with just the right mouth feel to allow the hop character to predominate. Grapefruit like bitterness is full and lasting and is balanced by a zesty citrus burst of aroma from the late addition of cascade hops. The Citrus flavours give way at the end to the floral, spicy bitterness of Amarillo hops.

Eight Degrees Howling Gale Ale (abv 5%)
It pours a pale golden colour and the malty sweetness is well balanced by the American Chinook, Amarillo and Centennial hops. Howling Gale has a pleasant grapefruit and citrus aroma and goes well with fish, chicken or anything off the barbeque.

Porterhouse Brewing Hop Head (abv 4.8%)
A fulsome, winsome strong ale. A deep copper tinged brew for the true aficionado, longer fermentation and thrice hopping bring about a complex soft bitterness allied to a malt induced sweetness with the characteristic oily Fuggles hop perfume.

Dark Arts Porter, 500ml (abv 4.4%)
 A dark, almost black porter, named for the part of the brewing process not quite covered by science.
Dark Arts is brewed using a healthy dose of Black malt and Chocolate malt, to add to the flavour as well as to give the beer its dark colour. This unfiltered porter has a clear roasty flavour, but with hints of caramel and chocolate, while maintaining enough bitter hop presence to preserve its balance.

 I wasn't letting Michael Creedon off the hook and asked him to pick the “house” favourites: “Our favourite Irish craft beers and the ones we like to recommend change with the seasons and even with our mood! Ones we’re really enjoying at the moment include -

White Gypsy Belgian Dubell (abv 8%)
A dry slightly spicy beer with a fruity finish. An excellent choice for grilled oily fish like tuna and salmon.

Dungarvan Brewing Helvick Gold Blonde Ale (abv 4.9%)
 A great introduction to the world of craftbeer, this blonde ale is not a bland ale. There is a complexity at play here with a fruity aroma balanced by a hoppiness that makes it a slightly challenging but still quite easy to drink beer.

O’Hara’s Leann Folláin (abv 6%)
O’Hara’s Leann Folláin Stout is laden with complex chocolate and coffee flavours balanced by a robust bitterness and delicate spicy aroma imparted from the generous portions of Northdown and Fuggle Hops.

Eight Degrees Brewing Knockmealdown Porter (abv 5%)
 A robust malt-driven ale balances dark malts with some old world bitter hops. It won’t weigh you down like a stout and offers a rich chocolaty aroma with a burst of espresso.

Now, what are your top four?

Sheen Shines on Valentine’s

Sheen Shines on Valentine’s

Campari in the bar

Sheen Falls Lodge was the classy venue for this year’s Valentine’s Night outing and it turned out to be a cracking meal, though there was not, thankfully, a special menu for the night. A new season just started, new owners and some new staff, saw us get off to a rather slow start but, soothed by an excellent meal and the live piano music, we were very happy at the end.

Enjoyed a drink in the bar, in the Sun Lounge to be precise, before heading to La Cascade Restaurant, nicely lit and furnished and very well staffed and a decent crowd in. First surprise was a very tasty Amuse Bouche: herb baked oyster in shell accompanied by a lively Bloody Marie shot. The taste buds were up and running.

Now for the starters. From a choice of six, I picked the Home Smoked Salmon and Citrus Marinated Sea Trout, served on a crispy coriander sesame flat bread with fresh horse-radish. Very colourful and tasty with the razor flat bread adding a contrasting texture.

The other starter was also well received and that was Confit Pork Belly and Black Pudding with Pear Vanilla Compote and jus, with a liquorish yoghurt. The first three provided a perfect combination while the yoghurt didn’t add much. 

We both started off the wines with a rosé from Provence: Noas, Château Ferry Lacombe 2010 (€9.00 a glass). Not too many people drink rosé during the Irish winter but this was well up to the task. For the mains, I switched to an unremarkable, though quite drinkable, Navara Principe de Viana Crianza Tempranillo 2008 (€7.50 a glass) while CL was very pleased with the Alain Geoffroy 2011 Petit Chablis (€10.00 a glass).

My mains was just perfect: Fillet of Beef with Sautéed artichoke, pommes dauphine and red wine jus. CL was more than pleased with the Pan-fried Cod Fillet, beetroot tarragon sauce, bacon lardons, sweet potato rosti and winter vegetables.

Grand Marnier Marinated Strawberries with Iced Champagne.

The break between mains and dessert was sweetly filled by the sorbet, a really top class one, a little glass containing Champagne ice, Grand Marnier and Strawberries. More like a mini-dessert than your normal sorbet!

Took our time making a pick from the six or so desserts on offer. CL went for the Irish Whiskey and Golden Raisin crème Brûlée with Guinness Ice Cream while my choice was the much more sober Fig Beignets with Fromage Blanc Mousse and Berry Compote, both excellent, especially when matched with superb dessert wines. 

For me it was the Muscat de Rivesaltes Domaine des Schistes 2009  (Languedoc-Roussillon) while for her it was Domaine Chiroulet, Soleil d’Automne 2007 (Gascoigne), each at €9.00 per glass.

It was a long evening but all too soon it was time to settle up, get the coats on (they do that for you here) and head for the taxi.

• The basic 3 course meal in this restaurant will cost you €65.00.