Stars of the La Rioja Alta Winery

Stars of the La Rioja Alta Winery

Talking here about the winery of La Rioja Alta and not the region of the same name in La Rioja. The winery, headquartered in Haro, was established in 1890. In particular, I’m talking about two excellent reds, the Ardanza and the Arana, which I bought on a visit to their boutique (in Haro) this summer.                                             One unusual thing here is that they actually charge you for the tastings, anything from €1.50 to a fiver a glass. You don’t really want to be tasting glassfuls on a road trip, so we shared. The lady, Maria, who served us, had polished off her English in Dublin!                                                                                              In the late 19th century, when phylloxera struck in France, Haro was one of the first towns that French merchants called to, looking for replacement wines. The little town prospered and was only the second Spanish town to get electricity - the first was Jerez.

Vina Arana, Rioja Reserva 2004, 13%, €11.92 at the boutique.

As we sipped our glass (€2.00), we were told that 2004 was a very good year and that the blend is 95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo. It is produced in Haro in a Bordeaux style and was originally known as Rioja Claret.

Colour is a dark cherry red with intense berries on the nose. Drinking from the bottle at home, I found it a smooth fruity medium bodied wine, with pleasant spice and silky tannins. For sure, this is an elegant Rioja with a pleasing aftertaste and excellent length. Highly recommended. Available at Mitchell’s  €22.95.

Vina Ardanza, Reserva 2004, Rioja DO, 13.5%, €15.49 at the boutique.

Made from Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, this too has the dark cherry colour with an intense nose of berries, some spice. It is full bodied, a superb combination of power and elegance and comes with a long finish. This ticks all the boxes, even those above 90. Amazing and very highly recommended.

Also look out for the 2001, as they told me that it is amazing and, released in 2009, is available in Ireland with a Reserva Especial on the label. By the way, the tasting glass cost €2.40.

The 2001 is available at Mitchell’s  €26.95

Comfort at the Barn

Comfort at the Barn

Clockwise, from top left: A table, pork, melon, waiting area,
smoked salmon and duck.

Walk into the Barn in Mayfield and you’d think you are in a four star hotel, such is the comfort in the waiting area. After the warm welcome and with your coats taken to the cloakroom, you are seated, the menus are supplied and you may have a drink as you study.

The carpeted comfort continues into the very spacious dining room. On a recent Christmas visit, we were taken to a table, near one of the fires. Aside from the fact that I got a slightly sloppy pint of Murphy's, the friendly service was of a high standard and, more importantly, so was the food.

I was very happy with my starter: their very own Smoked Salmon, with garden salad and vanilla infused dill oil. The other starter, Melon and Fruit Platter with a Passion Fruit Reduction and Red Wine Reduced Fruit Coulis, was also well received and dispatched.

I gave the Savoury Stuffed Turkey Roulade a skip and instead picked the Crispy Roast Duckling, with Plum Jam, Beetroot Confit, Glazed Sweet Potato and Port Reduction. The duck was perfect and overall it was quite a combination.

No complaints either from the other side of the table where the mains chosen was the Savoury Apricot and Raisin Stuffed Pork Fillet, with Mushroom Ragout and Spiced Apple Chutney. This was better than I expected, really tasty indeed.

No shortage of well cooked vegetables (not too hard, not too soft) on the side. So we were well fed. So well indeed, that we had to resist dessert even though a laden trolley was rolled to the table but we just had to say no, regretfully!

The Barn, 30 years on the go, is one of those long established restaurants that we take for granted. The standard is as high as ever. Its reputation was enhanced recently when it was chosen to host the very prestigious gala dinner for Ireland’s first convention of all the health ministers of the European community.

I walk that way quite often and, ministers or no ministers, the Barn always seems to be quite busy. A very good sign indeed.

NYE: Special Night at Fleming’s

NYE: Special Night at Fleming’s

Happy New Year to you all. Hope you had a good night on the 31st.

I certainly had, thoroughly enjoyed the Menu Degustation at Fleming’s, not to mention the music and dancing. Quite a night, highlighted by a brilliant 6 course tasting menu.

After a warm greeting, we were taken to the very comfortable waiting area where we enjoyed plates of delicious canapés while choosing our wine from a recommended list. The Lorenz V. Friendly Grüner Veltliner was recommended to me and the fruity tingly Austrian proved quite an all rounder; it deserves to be better known.

After that relaxing interlude, it was upstairs to our tables and our starter of Pate de Foie Gras, crispy wonton of duck, orange compote and tossed leaf salad, an absolutely gorgeous combination of flavours, really well thought out. We were up and running.

And the very high standard continued with the fish course. The Symphonie de Fruit de Mer consisted of Seared Sea bass, with fresh crab gratin compote of fennel and a light champagne sauce. Quite a symphony indeed by the conductor in the kitchen!

Then a little break, filled by a tasty beefy Cappuccino of Wild Mushroom. The tempo of the musical duo nearby was picking up and so too was that of the food as the Duo de Viande made its grand entrance. 

The combination of Pot Roast Pheasant with a cognac and cream sauce and the Entrecote de Boeuf, with Galette de Pomme, was incredible, tasty, tender and, for the second time that evening, we had a memorable sauce. This dish called for a red wine and a gorgeous warm Tempranillo fitted the bill to perfection.

Now for the sweet finale, accompanied by a sweet wine. Not that famous one from Bordeaux but a very classy one from neighbouring Bergerac: Chateau Ladesvignes Monbazillac (a delicious blend of Sémillon and Muscadelle).

Quite a match for Les Desserts: Feuillet de Chocolate, Poudin a La Noelle and Glace de Vanille. A tremendous plateful to round off a marvellous display of cooking by chef-patron Michael Fleming.

After that, all we had to do was get to our feet, some more willingly than others, to dance and ring in the New Year. A terrific way to see out 2012 and welcome in its younger relation. Fingers crossed for you all in 2013 but an especially Happy New Year to the Flemings (Eileen and Michael) and to all their efficient and engaging staff. 

Go mbeirimid beo ar an am seo arís!

Watch for the coming weekend at Fleming's. Women's Christmas this weekend: 6 course tasting menu Saturday night - €45 per person. Lunch All day Sunday - 5 course set menu €35 - Yum!

Nine most popular restaurant posts 2012

Nine most popular restaurant posts 2012

Many of you will miss
dining in the garden of
O'Brien's Chop House.

Amazingly, a restaurant review from November has taken more hits than any other this year (2012) and the review of the Chapel Steps in Bandon is our top post for the year. It has taken around 2,200 hits and that puts it well ahead of the others. Chef Kevin O'Regan can take much of the credit. He is helping upgrade Chapel Steps from a cafe to a restaurant and his previous restaurant, Electric, is number two on the list!

Sad to see that two of the nine, O'Brien's and Augustine's, are no longer open but newcomers such as Chapel Steps and Electric are wasting no time in claiming their places among your favourites.

1 - Chapel Steps (November)

2 - Electric (June)

3 - Buffalo Tasting at the Mills (September)

4 - Lunch Treat at O'Brien's Chop House (August)

5 - Epic Tweet-up at Springfort Hall (March)

6 - Stuart Bowes at Barnabrow (November)

7 - Jacobs on the Mall (October)

8 - Tom Crean Dining Experience at Annie's (September)

9 - Last Supper at Augustine's (February)

Chapel Steps top of the 2012 posts

Chapel Steps top of the 2012 posts

Home smoked duck at the Chapel Steps.

Popular chef Kevin O'Regan figured in no less than three of the top six blog posts this year....

In May, Electric chef Kevin O'Regan was dishing out gorgeous slices of freshly cut Iberico (top left pic), the top ham of Spain, perhaps of the world at the Murphy's Food Event in South Main Street. And then he took to the stage and delivered a delightful demonstration of how best to cook the humble pig’s trotter, perhaps better known as the crubeen.

In July, he was busy on the Electric stand at the Cork Food Fest in the Mardyke. By November, Kevin had made the big move to the newly upgraded Chapel Steps in Bandon. It was a miserable November evening when I walked it but the place was busy, a great ambience and great food on the table. The account of that meal went on to accumulate over two thousand hits and was my most popular post of 2012.

Bluegrass in Cobh

1 - Chapel Steps (November)

2 - Sun Shines on Cork Food Fest (July)

3 - Velvet Blue and American How-downers light up Cobh (July)

4 - New Cafe at Toons Bridge Dairy (September)

5 - Family Fun Day at Tramore Park (August)

6 - Electric go the Whole Hog (May) 

Amuse Bouche

Merry Christmas!
But not too merry.

Your eyes look like two cherries
In a glass of buttermilk!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR_A4Su-TrI

Château Lynch-Bages at Ballymaloe

Château Lynch-Bages at Ballymaloe

Jean-Charles Cazes, of  Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, is coming to Ballymaloe, Sunday 10th March 2013

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe has been in touch with great news for local wine lovers.

"Château Lynch-Bages, needs no introduction in Ireland – one of the best known, respected, collected and followed, of the ‘Irish Wine Geese’ Château of Bordeaux. We are delighted to be welcoming Jean Charles to Ballymaloe – and as part of The Gathering 2013, there will also be a series of other wine events, which are being planned for Cork City and County, throughout the year, with ‘Irish Wine Geese’ winemakers from all over the wine world, ‘flying home’.

Born in Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes grew up in Pauillac in the heart of the family vineyards at Château Lynch Bages, and since 2006, taking over from his father, Jean-Michel Cazes, he has been in charge of all the family vineyards, in France and abroad.

Join Jean Charles at Ballymaloe, for one, or both, of the following events – a wine tasting & presentation in the Grain Store at Ballymaloe, followed by a wine dinner, with the wines of Château Lynch Bages and The Cazes Family Collection wines"

Wine tasting & presentation, by Jean Charles Cazes, at The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 6.30pm, Sunday 10th March €18

Followed by a wine dinner, with Jean Charles Cazes, in the Yeats Room dining room, at Ballymaloe House 8.30pm €95

Special rates available for accommodation.

Advance booking advised.

Ballymaloe House,
Shanagarry,
Co. Cork,
Ireland

Tel:             00 353 (0)21 4652531    

Contact colm@ballymaloe.ie

Christmas Lunch in Bandon

Christmas Lunch at Chapel Steps in Bandon

Bandon (clockwise from top left): Hake, tempting window in butcher's shop,
aubergine and roast pepper parcels, warm salad of Butternut squash, Pavlova,
Chicken liver pate, swollen river, URRU, and
delicious warm chocolate cake!

Enjoyed a terrific Christmas lunch at the very busy Chapel Steps in Bandon yesterday. Very good value too at €20.00 for four courses with good choices. Well worth checking out in the few days left in the run-in to Christmas. Took a stroll around the town too and did a little shopping in the marvelous URRU shop and also at Matson's Wine Store, another busy spot.

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Taste of the Week
Always a bit suspicious when I see the blurbs on American products. “While the weather outside is frightful, Ben & Jerry’s Winter Berry Brownie tastes delightful” was spotted on   Ben & Jerry’s latest ice cream creation. “With fluffy fudge brownies and scrumptious raspberry-blackberry swirls that melt into Fairtrade vanilla ice cream. Flavour fans can cosy up on the couch while they sleigh their way through the indulgent flavours.”   Must say though that the ice-cream, especially the Brownie bits, hits the spot. Very enjoyable indeed, delightful even.

Burns Night Returns to West Cork

In an event to brighten up the winter days after Christmas and New Year, the spirit of Rabbie Burns kindles a flame in Skibbereen!

Following the success of the first West Cork Burns Supper in 2012, the West Cork Hotel and West Cork Food will host the event again on 25 January, 2013.  Last year the supper was completely sold out and guests enjoyed a seven course meal which married West Cork produce into a traditional Scottish meal including, of course, ‘a wee dram.’

The 2013 event will work on the same basis with the addition of a Scottish Ceilidh duo, which will perform and guide novice Scottish dancers in the famous Ceilidh dances, hopefully with the support of the attending Scots guests!

Not only did last year’s event celebrate Scotland and Robert Burns, it celebrated West Cork produce with a West Cork/Scottish fusion theme!  For details of next year’s Burns Supper please bookmark: www.westcorkhotel.com and www.westcorkfood.com. Bookings are already being taken by the Hotel at €40 per head and around one third of the tickets have sold in the first couple of weeks.


 Midleton Farmers Market
“Our Christmas market on Sat. 22nd Dec will be the last one of the year. So come early to do your last Market shopping before Christmas. There is a great buzz around the market especially for the children as they count the number of sleeps left for Santa to come. The music has been fantastic with several different carol singing groups singing over the last few weeks and this Saturday will be something special. Come along and enjoy the festivities. The Market returns Saturday 12th Jan.2013. Thank you all for your support throughout the year.”
Midleton Farmers Market opening hours:
Sat. Dec. 22nd 9am. - 1 pm.
Sat. Jan. 12th 9am - 1 pm.
The Market will be closed for 2 weeks for Christmas.

Fermoy Indoor Market
“There are still some tables available for the last of our 10 Fermoy Indoor Markets, Sunday the 23rdDecember. Due to public demand we are running a Baby Fair along with our regular market. If you have a few hours to spare and fancy a break why not do a clear out of all no longer used toys, books, baby/ kids clothes & accessories.It will be a fun day, kettle will be on, Xmas carols will be playing & you'll be making some extra money for the Holidays. Tempted- call me on 0863231010.”

Douglas Farmers Market
“We've been offered another location for the market next Saturday the 22nd of December. We will be holding a small market on the east plaza of the Douglas Village Shopping Centre (outside M&S) from 10-3. The stalls attending this market are Mealagulla Orchard Apples, Joys flame grilled goodness, Badger & Dodo coffee, the organic BBQ, Ned McCarthy Dairy, the Baking Emporium, Hamammi Kebab, Roly’s Fudge, Nibbles Emporium, Margaret Scannel veg, Healthy You Seaweeds and Barry's Nursery. The rest of our stallholders will be at Mahon Point from 10-2 on the same day.”

“We're sorry to have had to split up the market, but unfortunately it's our only option this year. We'll all be back as normal in Douglas Court on Saturday 12th January. Happy Christmas and sorry for the inconvenience.”

More Markets
English Market
Eoin O'Mahony ‏@guilderdbutcher has tweeted the English Market opening hours for Christmas #Cork pic.twitter.com/oCJijfyR

Fermoy Indoor Market
BABY FAIR – “In conjunction with Fermoy Indoor Market. Sunday the 23rd of December we will be running a Baby Fair for all new & pre-loved baby & toddler related items. A €15- charge will apply which includes the use of a 6ft table. Time is from 11am-4pm (set up at 10am). To reserve your spot or for more detail call Louise on 086-3231010.”

Cahir Farmers Market
Cornelius Traas ‏@theapplefarmer tells me that Cahir Farmers Market is open today 4-8 pm for a Christmas special, and also Saturday 9-1.

Nenagh
Tipp Green Business ‏@tpgbn have been in touch to say that the Christmas Market at St. Joseph's CBS, Nenagh, will be held on 23 Dec-proceeds go to Children's Hospital Crumlin & North Tipperary Hospice.

Breakthrough Cancer Research
If you are in Cork City and in need of a quick cup of coffee why not call to the Breakthrough Cancer Research Pop-Up Market. Here you’ll be greeted by Eoghan O'Sullivan and while sipping your cuppa you can browse and maybe pick up a gift for someone. Maybe something for yourself. Eoghan: “Our pop up shop for 12 days of Christmas is open in Cornmarket Shopping Centre Cork (under KT Maxx) until 1pm on the 24th. Please visit.”

Food Fight: Derry Clarke v Clodagh McKenna!

Two Celebrity Chefs will fight it out

 on RTE1

Food Fight Sees Derry Clarke and Clodagh McKenna ‘fight’ it Out in Two Gorey Restaurants

Food Fight takes the ever popular food/restaurant format and adds a competitive edge to the proceedings, by pitting two celebrity chefs against one another.

 A one-off special, where two well-known chefs, Derry Clarke and Clodagh McKenna, are given the task of designing the ultimate Christmas themed restaurant.  They are transported to a small Irish town location where two similarly sized eating establishments have agreed to allow them to take over for four days.

With Food Fight, viewers will watch Derry Clarke and Clodagh McKenna go to Gorey, where they will each take over a restaurant.  Each Chef will have just TWO days to revamp their restaurant, meet their staff, devise and cook menus which will ultimately win over the locals when they open for business ready or not, and over the next two nights try to win over the locals.  The locals will judge both of the newly run establishments with their wallets, as the diners will compare and criticize both venues etc and leave comment cards telling the chefs what they really thought of their night out.

Derry and Clodagh’s task to create the ultimate Christmas eating experience.  Working to the same budget they must revamp, and restyle their establishment, as well as design a menu, source and cook the food for the two nights they are open. Each Chef must train their staff and bring both the kitchen staff and the front of house staff up to speed on their ways.  Finally, they must each advertise their restaurant to get to ensure they get full houses and maximum profits.

The Chef with the most profits will be crowned victor with profits from both restaurants going to SVP, Gorey. Food Fight is produced by Another Avenue and will air Thursday 27th  December, 6.30pm on RTE 1. Read more here

Rico’s new Italian restaurant in Cork City Centre

Rico’s new Italian restaurant opens in Cork City Centre

This weekend Rico Valleballa launched his new Italian Restaurant ‘Rico’s’ in The Mardyke Entertainment Complex, Sheares Street, Cork! People queued for over an hour before doors opened at 5.30pm last Sunday when Rico himself welcomed the guests and showcased his new Italian menu.

Guests were very impressed with the new eatery, the delicious food and friendly atmosphere: “Outstanding food at great prices” ...“The Italian’s really know good food”...“A great place for all the family”.

Rico’s menu shows he takes great pride in carrying on the tradition of recipes handed down from his grandmother to his Mother and to the Vallebella Peccerillo family. The family love a celebration and any occasion is the cause for a long meal and a noisy gathering over favourite plates like gnocchetti sardi, ditali piselli or calamari e patate.

Riccardo began trading at Farmers Markets with signature dishes Parmigano and ‘arranchini’ filled rice balls, and within a few years had opened The Castle Bar and Trattoria at Blackrock Castle and Baile Bella, a pizzeria at Blackrock Village.

Riccardo Vallebella’s new Italian venture in Cork is Rico’s at the Mardyke Entertainment Complex and assures you’ll find a familiar mix of fresh fast real food at good prices. Family favourite pasta and pizza dishes will feature along with daily specials from Mama’s recipe book. Start with antipasta and finish with ammazza caffé (to kill the coffee) and eat like the Italians!

Adjoining Rico’s is the new Mardyke Ping Pong bar, the first of its kind in Ireland. So you can enjoy delicious Italian food followed by a few drinks and some Ping Pong – Now there’s a night with a difference!

English brought Riccardo Vallebella to Ireland from Rome in 1996 but the Irish kept him here once the young Italian broke free of Dublin’s Little Italy.

It took coming to Cork for the Jazz in 1999 for Rico to learn the English language and the ways of the Irish and it was to a backdrop of a lively Cork scene that this took place. Rico started working in Cork’s social hot spots at the time including the Bodega, Rumplestiltskins and the Yumi Yuki Club at Triskel. His ease with the customer and skill behind a service counter soon brought him to management attention but it was his love for the kitchen that raised the bar.

Rico and his late brother Maurizio (who followed his trail from Rome to Cork) had grown up with a natural affinity to food and cooking that was second nature.

The family home was the hub for the Vallebella Peccerillo clan and Amalia their mother the centre of this clatter her four sons enjoyed. Rico’s father Antonello comes from Porto Torres, Sardinia, and Amalia from Casserta, Naples, and the Roman kitchen became the expression of these food cultures. Sunday lunch for thirty plus is a regular occurrence there and the travelling sons brought this knowledge of food and function to Cork where it was widely welcomed.

It made sense then that this familiarity with food would translate into business and Riccardo and Maurizio opened Buon Appetitto followed by Casanova at Triskel Arts Centre in 2001.

The style was ‘agriturismo’ where a short set menu described the season’s dishes and staples like bruschetta and antipasta plates allowed the seasonal toppings like aubergine, artichoke or baby roma tomatoes to feature on the toasted pane casareccio bread or board.

The main courses of ‘Primi’ (usually a pasta, polenta or rice dish) and ‘Secundi’ (featuring the daily special of meat, fish or vegetable) followed this tradition of allowing the harvest food to take centre stage.

€10,000 Christmas gift at Examiner Coffee Morning

Ten thousand euro donation highlight of

Irish Examiner Christmas Coffee Morning

Clockwise from top left: Catriona Anderson, Michelle Darmody (Examiner),
Darina Allen, UCC singers, dancing shoes!,  Irish Examiner editor
Tim Vaughan, cheque in hand, announces €10000 donation.

Irish Examiner editor Tim Vaughan admitted he wasn’t too happy with his public speaking role at the start of yesterday's festive coffee morning at the paper’s HQ. But he had no bother in rushing back to centre stage halfway through to announce that he had just been handed a €10,000 donation for St Vincent de Paul.

That really was the icing on the cake (forgive the pun) on a very enjoyable morning. And yes there was no shortage of cake. The reception area had been magically transformed into a “cafe” by Mary Terry and her crew and we were all enjoying a drink and a cake as the UCC Choir got the morning, arranged in aid of St Vincent de Paul, off on the right note.

The Examiner’s Michelle Darmody and Darina Allen were the cake experts to speak and they freely gave some terrific advice on Christmas cooking in general and on cakes in particular. Darina also sounded a serious note, reminding us to think of the charities after Christmas as well.

The main event though was the announcement of the Irish Examiner Christmas Cake competition. Finally, the tension was broken for the 12 finalists when Cobh's Catriona Anderson was named as the overall winner.

So well done to Catriona and to the other brave contestants, to the Examiner staff who put on a great show (and organised many prizes for the raffle) and to that anonymous donor! Happy Christmas everyone.

Yellow Pearl & an Irish Vineyard

Wohlmuth Gelber Muskateller Steinriegel (Austria) 2011, 12.5%, €14.72 Karwig Wines

Yellow is the colour of my true love’s hair

In the morning when we rise..

Yellow (Gelber) is also the colour of this gorgeous aromatic Austria wine, the grapes for which are hard won from very steep slopes (up to 78%). The soil is a red slate in this vineyard which has been referred to, for centuries, as the best in Styria. The Muskateller is an ancient variety and the fruit is harvested very late and is handpicked.

It is more light gold than yellow and you’ll see hints of green. The aromas are quite fragrant. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, no shortage of fruit. Indeed it is excellent from the intro to the long dry finish. Quite a gem by one of the area’s top producers and highly recommended.

The Irish Vineyard – No Kidding!

Many of you, especially the Cork contingent, will be familiar with the Blarney Blonde, an ale by the Franciscan Well. But how many of you about the Blarney Red, the Blarney White, the Kilkenny Red and the Kilkenny White not to mention Pog mo Thoin.

Not beers but wines and they are produced in California by Irish Vineyards www.IrishVineyards.com. Could hardly believe it when I stumbled on the site. Apparently it, the vineyard, was set up by the Murphy boys in 1849. Nowadays it is owned by Russell and Joan Irish and you’ll find them in Vallecito, California!