Thursday, September 20, 2012

Fresco Value and Variety

Fresco Value and Variety

Spent a pleasant interlude yesterday in the Fresco Bistro and was once again reminded of the excellence of the place in terms of variety and value. With the college “populating” itself again, the restaurant was busy enough for lunch but deserves to be better known and better supported.


There is terrific value here, quality too of course, as one would not be much good without the other. Almost all the specials on the board were under a tenner. Just the day before, I had a very ordinary carvery Roast of the Day (Bacon) in a suburban pub; meat and veg were fine but the potatoes were rock hard and it cost €12.99. Not great quality and no great value there. That dish would end up at the bottom if put in competition against anything at Fresco.

The variety at the Glucksman restaurant was underlined when we got a plate full of hot tapas and two glasses of wine, all part of a discount scheme now reaching its conclusion. The tapas are not a regular item on the menu and we had to ring in advance.

We enjoyed a brilliant selection, all with an Asian touch: chicken, pork, beef, calamari, fish, prawns and more. They came with three brilliant sauces, sauces that didn’t come out of a bottle: Satay, Sweet chilli and Raita.


I had been looking at the dessert specials on and off during the tapas and couldn’t leave without trying. We picked the Mixed Berry Tart (€4.00) and Jamaican Rum Banana and Fruit Tart (€5.00). Had a half of each and, hours later, I’m still very contented!

So well done to Brian and Chef Kash along with their very pleasant and efficient staff. Keep up the very good work and hope to see you all again soon.



Mixed Berry Tart





Food and Drink Spotting


Food and Drink Spotting
Arun Kapil, Green Saffron Spices, Cork; Mary Beary, Taste Kerry; Ciara McGee, South Cork Enterprise Board; and Kathleen O'Connor, Sasta Sausages, Killorglin, Co Kerry; with Amber, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese; at the launch of the Inaugural Cork / Kerry Food Forum, which takes place at the Rochestown Park hotel on 1st Oct.

The Cork Kerry Food Forum
The Cork Kerry Food Forum 2012 is to be held at the Rochestown Park Hotel on October 1st. There will be workshops, exhibitions, a conference and one to one mentoring sessions. Get all the times and details here.

More than 200 people involved in the region’s burgeoning food sector will meet with Minister for Agriculture, Food and Marine, Simon Coveney T.D., at the forum which is aimed at SME food producers, buyers, retailers and distributors who are keen to further their knowledge of the Irish food sector which is worth more than €20billion to the economy. Read more.


Waterford Festival to Host 'A Taste of Brittany Market'
Storytelling Southeast – September 26 - 30
Storytelling Southeast, a festival in Dungarvan which has been developing its Celtic connections with the French region of Brittany where Storytelling is a popular culture, will this year for the first time host a 'Taste of Brittany' artisan food market.
From Thursday, September 27 to Saturday, September 29 the 'Bretagne Excellence' producers will feature at Dungarvan Castle with some of Waterford finest food producers creating a Celtic market of the first artisan foods at 'Village Breton'.
A not to be missed highlight of the festival takes place on Friday evening when the renowned French singer, storyteller and poet Giles Servat will host an audience at the Town Hall Theatre. And the final day of the festival offers families and story lovers a variety of events. An afternoon of free family fun day at Walton Park followed by a free live gig with American band Jason Serious. For further details see here

Cafe Paradiso
Now you're all nicely settled back into school, ROMM is back with some homework for you. Learn to make this sublime custard. The rewards will be heavenly. Someone will love you for it. Recipe

Ballyvolane House
Despite the wettest summer in 40 years, the house has been buzzing, the glamping has been in full-swing, the gardens have been blooming and exploding with veg and the weddings have gone well. ITV has also been filming here with actor James Nesbitt. He is presenting a travel show about Ireland - due to be broadcast in March 2013.
Check the Autumn highlights here

Milleens Cheese
Irish farmstead cheese making is the story of a great comeback, one told in Culture's autumn issue by writer Maggie Armstrong. Here's a glimpse at Irish cheese maker Veronica Steele's early days of production, before Milleens became the lauded name it is today: Milleens: the Humble Irish Beginning 
Veronica will be sharing her life philosophy with us at the Bandon Arts Festival on Sat 29 Sept 5.30pm in Urru. Details.

Shorts

A Blueberry Mojito

October Beer Festival at Franciscan Well

Porcinis with a view!

Multi Colored Corn @ City of Falls Church Farmer's Market 

PICNIC PIZZA MUFFINS from Rozanne Stevens: This recipe is a real crowd pleaser with kids and adults alike loving to devour them. Picnic Pizza Muffins are the perfect picnic bag and lunch box filler, although they may be gobbled up before lunchtime! Get the recipe

Easy peasy Granola Recipe from Fernhill House Hotel Clonakilty 


Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Outstanding New Zealand Wines

Outstanding New Zealand Wines at Ballymaloe

Sunday afternoon’s trip to Ballymaloe  proved to be a very rewarding one. Not alone did we taste some terrific wines from New Zealand but we were entertained and educated by two of the beautiful country’s top winemakers, Larry McKenna of Escarpment and John Hancock of Trinity Hill.


Ironically both are Australian and went to High School together. They later combined in an early venture in New Zealand before going their separate ways. They are still great friends and a terrific combination at evenings such as this.



While John recognises the importance of terroir Larry, also known as Larry McPinot, is “unashamedly a terroiriste” and tries, very successfully, to emulate Burgundy.



The pair were introduced to the Grain Store audience by Anthony Tindal of the Tindal Wine Company, their distributors in Ireland. John told us that Trinity Hill has been established for just 15 years as he introduced the first pair of his wines.



The first up was the Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2011. Beautiful aromas, “Turkish delight!” John said. Even though the wine is a dry one, it has a magnicient texture and fullness and “makes food look good”. This is perhaps the best Pinot Gris I’ve tasted.



Then we tasted the Gimblett Gravels Viognier 2011, another standout wine and again one of the best Viogniers I’ve tasted. Loved its apricot and floral aromas, the rich and soft texture. John recommended trying it with Asian food.



The first of the Trinity Hill reds followed, a Hawkes Bay Merlot 2010, 87% Merlot to be exact, the balance of the blend shared between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This, with an abv of 14%, is “more about the fruit. It was a very successful year. This is good value and a great seller in New Zealand. Try it with lamb and rosemary.”



The next wine, the Gimblett Gravels ‘The Gimblett’ 2008, was built to last longer than the Merlot. Is uses the traditional five varieties of Bordeaux (Cab Sauv 43%, Merlot 41%, Petit Verdot 7%, Malbec 6& and Cab Franc 3%). 



“The fruit is from low yielding vines. It is more intense, more concentrated. It is made to age and needs it. It spends 18 months in oak, has good depth, is well balanced and will age for another five years. A food wine!"




All along the evening, the pair had some good discussions and good answers to questions from the audience. Larry told us that almost all the wine is made on the sheltered east coast as the NZ weather comes from the west, just like Ireland’s.

John explained that tannins come predominantly from the skins, also from the seeds and pips, and give the wine that grippy feeling while Larry said that, without tannins, wine has no backbone.

While Larry grows Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay on the Escarpment, the site is “a great place to grow Pinot Noir”. It is a bit of a Prima Donna – Larry described it as genetically instable – but he does very well with it, as his four examples underlined.

First up was Escarpment The Edge, Martinborough 2011. “No oak, simple..fruit driven..for immediate drinking.” Simple maybe but still full-bodied and with a lingering finish.

The Escarpment Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010, was a “step up in quality” “it was a good year, very healthy grapes...we picked when we wanted to pick over a number of sites. This is what we call a district blend and a fantastic example of what we should be doing.”

The first two were good but the second two, each from a single vineyard, were even better, described as absolutely beautiful by Anthony Tindal and virtually everybody else I spoke to.

The Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010, showed how well Larry emulated Burgundy, though his site has its own characteristics of course. Made from 25 year old vines the wine showed unique complexity along with the usual black cherry and plum flavours.

Really good and then came another gem: Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010. “The density of planting in this vineyard, our oldest, is similar to Burgundy” and the wine was ”impressively velvety and supple...huge concentration of flavour...I am very happy with it..and really looking forward to seeing the Kupe in 25 years time!”

Nice stories too behind the labels and you can read all about them here. For more info on John’s wines check Trinity Hill.

Alain from the Vanilla Grape in Kenmare enjoyed his trip to Ballymaloe and he stocks the wines. There is a discount available at present and to see more about the wines in Ireland check Tindal Wines. Remember when using the internet that while a company may have with 100s of wines in stock, they may not all be listed on the site; sometimes you may have to phone.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

West Cork Suppliers on Show

Say cheese: Fooling around with Val Manning

West Cork Suppliers on Show



Some of the top food producers and suppliers in West Cork were gathered in the ballroom of the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen last Wednesday as part of the week long A Taste of West Cork festival, specifically there in the morning so that the visiting chefs for the evening’s highlight, the Celtic Cook-off, could sample and choose from the produce.

Delighted to get an invite to the morning session and meet up with some old friends from the markets and also meet some new ones. Manning’s Emporium  from Ballylickey had a stand groaning with some of the best cheese around: Durrus, Coolea, Gubbeen, Fermoy etc. and Val and Andrew were in top form. More top notch cheese too at the Milleens stand where Quinlan Steele was on duty.

Frank Krawczyk, a citizen of the world who loves his West Cork home, is one of Ireland’s best known salami and sausage makers. Loved his Bresaola and his treatement of a shoulder of pork, both tasty and moist, not to mention his cured ham. Frank, based in Schull, gives regular demonstrations at Ballyvolane House and O’Brien’s Chop House.
Frank Krawczyk

Axel and Marye Miret are the couple behind West Cork Garlic  and their product was used by winning chef Garry O’Hanlon. Caroline Hennessy was on the 8 Degrees Brewing stand and she was displaying the full range of their popular beers. Saw the ale again on the Friday, on tap in Cork’s latest craft beer pub, the Hub in Anglesea Street.

Two of the four people on the Celtic Cook-off working group, Avril Allshire of Rosscarbery Recipes and Sally Barnes (“the greatest fish smoker in the country”, according to one Tom Doorley) of Woodcock Smokery were both busy at their stands.

Lingered also at the Skeaghanore West Cork Duck stand, for the conversation and also for a sample or two. Here they like to keep it simple, natural and additive free. Read all about this wonderful product here.


The chefs had been down to the coast earlier in the mornings so there was no fish stand in the ballroom but the sea wasn’t forgotten as we met Sally McKenna of Bridgestone Guides and Jim Kennedy of Atlantic Sea Kayaking.  They had a very impressive display from the sea and the shore including Dilisk, Carrageen Moss, Sea Spaghetti and Wrack and more. Tasty stuff too and Masterchef winner Tim Anderson was shopping there.

Got to most of the stands but missed out on a few, including Brown Envelope Seeds. All of the suppliers were back for the Cook-off in the evening and the stands were kept busy as hundreds of people squeezed in.

A few more producers came too, including Glenilen and Matson’s Wine and Food Store of Bandon who, with Searson’s, were supplying the matching wines for the cook-off meals. Matson’s are offering 20 per cent off on the show wines for the next while. I got a taste of one of them, the Vallado from the Douro, a terrific red, easy drinking and delicious.

All in all, a great experience that underlined once again the quantity and quality of the producers in the area. And, another thing, these are friendly folk. So why not put the festival in your diary for September 2013. You won’t regret it!

Cricket, Surf, Wine and Harvest Supper


Cricket, Surf, Wine and Harvest Supper
A Margaret River event at Ballymaloe
 Ballymaloe's Colm McCan tells me they have a special coming up at the end of the month:

"We are delighted to announce this unique wine, food, & sporting event, to take place on Thursday 27th September, at Ballymaloe House which connects two lovely coastal areas of the world - Margaret River, Western Australia and Shanagarry/Ballycotton Bay, East Cork.

Afternoon  - Cricket with the East Cork Cricket Club, in association with Cricket Ireland, who will give a demonstration on the lawn at Ballymaloe, and explain the rules of the game to all. Have a go yourself – ‘learn the basics whilst trying out the game’. There will also be a demonstration on the sport of kite surfing – linking in with the theme of the day – Margaret River comes to East Cork!"

Evening 7.00pm - Wine tasting & Harvest Supper
Enjoy a Margaret River wine tasting & presentation, with iconic Australian winemaker, David Hohnen, in The Grain Store, Ballymaloe featuring the wines of McHenry Hohnen, followed by Wildside’s Ted Berner’s ‘Fire-cooking’ Harvest Supper.

Thursday 27th September 2012 €35
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork
Tel:             021 4652531       res@ballymaloe.ie
Harvest in Ballymaloe


Monday, September 17, 2012

Amuse Bouche

Amuse Bouche


Down from the mountains and over the Cross-river Bridge, villagers came with newly hatched chicks and ducklings in bamboo baskets, the first batch of edible ferns picked by the small hands of children with smaller children on their backs, deer that had not escaped the hunters’ buckshot and now came in disjointed forms: antlers, hides, jerky, bucks’ members labelled as deer whips and said to improve a man’s performance in his bedroom business.
-       From The Vagrants  by Yiyun Li

Outdoor Bliss at The Glebe Gardens Cafe

The Glebe Gardens Cafe
Entrance
 Great to eat outdoors under the sun and even better to eat something special. I enjoyed just such an occasion last week in the Cafe at The Glebe Gardens in Baltimore, a terrific location with innovative cooking and very friendly staff.

They do have an indoors but we ate in a courtyard type setting, out there with the birds and the bees, the sun shining and the specials on the board. CL picked the special soup: Courgette, Pea and Mint (€6.00). The balance of the ingredients was finely judged and, along with some gorgeous bread, with seeds inside and out, it was a terrific start.

I was just as happy with mine, The 3 Fish Chowder (€8.00), a regular item on the menu. It was described as a large bowl of chowder. It sure was large and it was also top notch. Also got the seeded bread with that.


We both agreed on the main course: Goats Cheese, Quinoa and Herb fritters, served with a garden salad (the garden is behind the wall), and Glebe tomato and chilli jam (€9.50). Again, a terrific combination of ingredients with the spicy and herby bits enhancing, rather than overpowering, the main ingredients. Really top class and at a decent price.




We should have been satisfied at that point but with class cooking so far, there was no way we were going to skip dessert, especially since we had been tempted all along by that big blackboard on the opposite wall.

I picked the lovely Peach and Almond Tart, excellent and well balanced. But the best looking dessert was at the other side where CL was tucking into the Lemon Curd Meringue Cake, easy on the eye and so sweet to eat. “The best dessert I’ve ever had,” she declared. Begged a few spoonfuls and agreed it was something else. A pretty photograph for sure and a delightful dessert for certain. Each dessert cost a fiver.

We were in the area for the fabulous Taste of West Cork festival and the Glebe told us they were also taking part. A treat indeed for those lucky punters who booked their “From Plot to Plate Evening”. Watch out for that event next year but you’ll be welcome at The Glebe anytime. Not quite anytime – make sure to check the site  for opening times. Oh, one more thing: they don't accept credit cards. Highly recommended.

Friday, September 14, 2012

My take on the Celtic Cook-off

 
Clockwise from top left: John McKenna (MC), Stephane Delourme,  Jack Stein,  Tony Singh,
Ian Bennett ,   Butch Buttery,  Garry O'Hanlon
  

The Celtic chefs: their dishes and their thoughts
My take on the Celtic Cook-off


It looks as if all six Celtic Cook-off chefs enjoyed this week’s visit to West Cork and hopes are high that some of them will be back again, following the example of Roy Brett the 2011 champion.

Roy, whose restaurant is the Ondine in Edinburgh, was guest chef at the West Cork Hotel on Tuesday night where he displayed his talents with a fantastic meal called A Taste of Ondine, one of the highlights for the week.

But a highlight for Roy and he said as much at the Cook-off on Wednesday was the Secondary Schools Cookery Competition. “This was one of the best moments. We can learn from the children, the food is part of their blood. The winners, the Mercy Heights, were outstanding, the food was incredible. The kids here have a great knowledge of food.”

It was a sentiment echoed by Jack Stein who served up a dish of Monkfish Cheeks as his meal in the Cook-off. “Food, culture, music, all the same thing,” he said, echoing the words I heard not too long ago from Kay Harte of Cork’s Farmgate.

Interview by MC John McKenna, Stein went on to emphasise the part that these elements, food in particular, can play in improving local life and keeping the kids at home. “Good restaurants draw people in and extend the holiday season”. A point emphasised by the fact that the Stein organisation in Cornwall employs some 450 people!

Stephane Delourme (from Brittany) also works with the Stein company, at the Seafood Restaurant in Padstow. Before that he worked in Dublin and was a regular visitor to Baltimore which he loved. He has noticed a huge improvement in Irish food over the last 13 or 14 years. He served up a dish of Dover Sole with local mussels, vegetables and beans from Brittany.

There was a big welcome for Wales representative Ian Bennett (of the Welcome to Town Restaurant) and he spoke of a fairly similar food scene in his native country where his fisherman rings him from the boat and tells him what he has. “You can’t get fresher than that!” Not surprisingly, fish featured in his dish: Union Hall Turbot with mussels, parsnips and Stonewell cider. By the way, we weren't supplied with a list of ingredients for the dishes so my lists are not complete!

Garry O’Hanlon of the Viewmount House in Longford won the Cook-off with his Hill Lamb (loin), a current dish in the restaurant. Local vegetables and fried bone marrow featured in the dish as did the newish West Cork Garlic, treated with a little local honey. I liked Garry’s modus operandi: “Find the ingredients, then bounce from there.”

Tony Singh, the man who “brought cocktails to Edinburgh” is co-founder of that city’s acclaimed restaurant Oloroso. He said we had fantastic produce here and used lamb and langoustines, spicy potato and a minted herb salsa verde. MC John McKenna praised Tony for using the spices “with sympathy and knowledge”.

Baltimore seafood featured heavily in Butch Buttery’s dish. Among many other roles, Butch is chef and recipe consultant for the Manx Organic Network and Island Seafoods. Langoustines, lobster, prawns, mussels and monkfish, even Sally Barnes’ fabulous smoked haddock, not forgetting his Isle of Man scallops (each chef was allowed an ingredient from home) were all added to the Bisque type mix.

It looked well too with the langoustines attempting to escape the bowl. Butch though said that this wasn't a “dish to worship, get it in and get it down.”

‘It’s a tribute to the quality of our award-winning West Cork producers that top chefs are so willing to come to West Cork and cook with our world class food,’ said Neil Grant, manager of the West Cork Hotel. ‘All of this year’s competitors have been truly impressed by the produce available to us here and these are chefs at the top of their game, they don’t mince their words!’

“It is great festival, unbelievable the amount of voluntary work that goes into it. A massive thanks to the suppliers, sponsors, judges, to the chefs and to Roy Brett who has been a brilliant ambassador for us. Must also mention Fáilte Ireland, great backers and here in force this evening.”

Neil had praise for Clare Gallagher, chairperson of the organising committee, for Avril Allshire, and Sally Barnes and Stephen Sage, his colleagues on the Working Group. It was a very enjoyable evening, though I thought the visual delivery to the 200 plus audience in the ballroom lacked a bit but I’m told they are working on that for next year.

So onwards and upwards with the Celtic Cook-off. The more we pull together the further we will go!

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Food and Drink Spotting


Food and Drink Spotting
Pictured at the announcement were Bernadette Byrne, Bord Bia, Ross Lewis, Chef, Chapter One and Florent Suplisson, Director of Bocuse d’Or

Irish Beef

Irish beef has been selected as a key ingredient for Bocuse d’Or, the esteemed French and world renowned, culinary competition. The Bocuse d’Or held every two years in Lyon, France, is regarded as the most challenging and prestigious haute cuisine cooking competition. The selection of Irish beef, following a rigorous and lengthy process by the Bocuse d’Or International Organisation Committee, was based on its grass fed nature meaning the product is of a high quality in terms of tenderness, taste and texture. Securing this much sought after accolade is an invaluable endorsement and recognition of Irish beef.
 Referred to as the Olympics of the culinary world, the Bocuse d’Or was pioneered and named after a 3 Star Michelin Chef, Paul Bocuse, in order to broaden the public’s understanding of the extraordinary dedication, practice and precision required to execute the very finest cuisine. Securing a place as a chef in the Bocuse d’Or Finals is an honour in its own right and involves months of preparation and planning whilst beating off stiff competition in the World Series of qualifying rounds and heats.
Much more on the Bocuse d’Or and our Irish beef here

Milleens 
The Steele Family, founders of Milleens Cheese and pioneers of cheese making in Ireland, will be at Bandon’s URRU on September 29th for a special event.
The Art of Living – in conversation with the Steele Family will take place as part of the Bandon Arts Festival on Saturday, September 29th at 5.30pm in Urru Culinary Store, McSwiney Quay, Bandon.

The around-the-table conversation will be led by West Cork based food writer Dianne Curtin and active audience participation will be encouraged. Milleens cheese based canapés and refreshments will be served.There is no entry charge for the event however as space is limited to 30 people early arrival is recommended.

Greene’s feed the Palace
Well, maybe not that royal palace, but McCurtain Street restaurant Green’s are stepping up to the plate in a big way this weekend to help their neighbours, The Everyman Palace Theatre. The Palace has a double Tom Murphy bill on this Saturday, one show (A Whistle in the Dark) at 3.00pm and a second (Conversations on a Homecoming) at 8.00pm).

Greene’s will help feed the assembled troops and will open an hour earlier (5pm) Saturday, to feed those of you who'd like to dine between watching the Druid Murphy double bill! That’s the way to do it. The more we pull together, the further we will go.

20 Nations To Compete In World Oyster Opening Championship
The Guinness World Oyster Opening Championship will take place on Saturday 29th September in the festival marquee, 12pm-7pm. The 58th Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival and will see contestants from 20 countries around the globe battle it out to become the 2012 World Champion! Tickets are €70 and include admission, half a dozen oysters, 2 tastes at the Food Village, a complimentary beverage and non-stop entertainment from 12pm-7pm.

Books and Food
If you like books and food, then Kilkenny’s Graignamanagh is the place to be on Sunday 23rd according to Twitter’s ‏@TownOfBooksFest. They have an artisan food & craft market on on the Sun 23rd (11.00am to 5.00pm), featuring chef @EdwardHayden. The bookfest by the way starts on the Friday and you may see the full programme here.

Drinks
Ballymaloe’s Early Start

There is a 4.30pm start next Sunday for the New Zealand Wine Adventure at The Grain Store at Ballymaloe. The event features New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay. Meet the winemakers, listen to their story, and taste their wines over a tutored tasting. A great way to learn more about New Zealand and its wonderful wines. This Sunday, at 4.30pm. € 15 (includes wine presentation and wine tasting)

Gary Gubbins of Red Nose Wine tells me he has finally given in to the pressure: “I have been asked about a wine course for many years and while I have given them to larger groups on request, we haven't yet run our own in house course. The planned one will be a 5 week course. More details to follow but the basics - It will start some time in October (date TBC) and will cost €75. It will be on from 7.30-9pm in the warehouse but at least one of evenings we want to move the class near a kitchen and match some wines to food. All details will be posted up soon on our Facebook page ( give us a Like ) as well as in the shop and on the next newsletter.”

Shorts

@tastewestfest  - Join us for a bite at Taste of Westfest Sat 15 & Sun 16 Sept, Newcastle West, Co Limerick - part of the Knights of Westfest Music extravaganza 12-16 Sept.

Meet the Goat this Saturday, 15th September, at Castlemary Farm, Cloyne; see how cheese is made from milk fresh from the goats and enjoy some tastings and a mini BBQ. Elke of @biasats filled me in: “Olive is our host for this event and she is looking forward to meeting you all. Price per person is €15 which includes tastings & BBQ as well as information about goats farming. Children are welcome and go free but as this is a working farm, need to be supervised. Please email biasasta@hotmail.com to book your place.”

On Saturday 29th September 2012 - 8:00pm in the Temperance Hall, Emmet Street, Kinsale, go and see Betrayal,  A One Man Play By Bill Griffin, in support of Breakthrough Cancer Research. Not a food event, but a good cause.

Garry O'Hanlon Tops In West Cork Test


Garry O'Hanlon Tops In West Cork Test


Donegal man Garry O’Hanlon came out in top in the Celtic Cook-off at a packed ballroom in the West Cork Hotel (Skibbereen) last night. MC John McKenna said that all six chefs were winners but Garry got the nod in a very tight contest.

Representatives from the other five Celtic territories included Jack Stein (Cornwall) son of restaurateur, chef and TV presenter Rick Stein, Ian Bennett, The Welcome to Town (Wales), Stephane Delourme, The Seafood Restaurant, Cornwall (representing Brittany), Tony Singh, who owned Oloroso Bar and restaurant for over 10 years (Scotland), and Butch Buttery, formerly of Tanroagan (Isle of Man).

The ‘Ready Steady Cook’ style cook off style event saw the master chefs split in to two groups where they each had just thirty minutes to impress the judges using West Cork artisan produce and one ingredient from their home turf. They were also assisted by three young aspiring chefs to help them with preparation and serving.

O’Hanlon’s dish of Loin of Hill Lamb, with bone marrow and wild artichoke, etc, and enhanced by, among other things, West Cork Garlic with honey, just won the favour of the judges who commended Garry on his use of Irish and local ingredients.

Speaking of the event, Neil Grant, General Manager, West Cork Hotel said “We were thrilled to host such a successful night again this year. The Celtic Cook Off has become a landmark food event for the Celtic regions of Northern Europe since its inception last year and we at The West Cork Hotel are proud to play host to the region’s finest chefs."

He continued, “The Celtic Cook Off opens new doors to local producers and extends the export potential of their products. They also have the chance to promote their fare to top international chefs and be recognised as the “go to people” for the best artisan produce in the world”.


A Taste of West Cork Food festival continues until this Sunday with a number of highlight events still to come including an intimate concert with Declan O’Rourke on Saturday night, many free cookery demonstrations throughout Skibbereen and the finale event of the harvest country fair on Sunday with more than 100 local producers exhibiting their artisan products.
We’ll have more on the event in the next few days!

Old Vine special and Ballymaloe event


Beso de Vino, Old Vine Garnacha 2010, Cariñena DO Spain, 13.5%, €9.00-11.00 stockists

I’m a sucker for old vine wines and this medium red, with its aromas of dark fruits (cherry and plum) is no exception. It is a delicious mix of fruit, spice and herb flavours, with an excellent balance and a long kiss goodbye.

Indeed it is a little like that little bull Antonio that gets his pic on all the bottles: forward, but in a nice kind of way. An excellent wine at a brilliant price. Highly recommended.


===============================================================
Ballymaloe Wine Event, next Sunday

 ‘A New Zealand Wine Adventure in Ballymaloe’, Sunday 16th September, 4.30pm
With New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay.

Meet the winemakers, listen to their story, and taste their wines with a wine tasting given by the winemakers. A great way to learn more about New Zealand and its wonderful wines. This Sunday, at 4.30pm, in The Grain Store, at Ballymaloe. € 15 (includes wine presentation and wine tasting). Tel:             021 4652531       colm@ballymaloe.ie

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Inchydoney Island Taste of West Cork

Sweet, sweet Inchydoney

Inchydoney Island Taste of West Cork

Hannah-Rose Farrington of the Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa has been in touch to tell us all about their tempting Autumn Food and Wine Evening



“As we welcome Autumn and all the wonderful harvest it brings, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa are delighted to announce their Taste of West Cork Autumn Food & Wine Evening which will be held at 7.30pm Friday 21st September.

The Taste of West Cork Evening is a unique evening to showcase the best of West Cork produce and artisan producers. The team of Chefs are already working on combining the wonderful autumnal produce to create exciting flavours mixed with exquisite presentation.

The evening will begin with a Champagne and Canapé Drinks Reception at 8.00pm, followed by a 7 course Autumn Tasting Menu, created by Head Chef Adam Medcalf and his team. Filled with flair and imagination the evening will combine the best of seasonal produce from West Cork which will be paired with wines carefully chosen by Harriett Tindal of Tindal Wines.

Once you have enjoyed the Seasonal Menu and paired Wines, we invite you to complete the evening in Dunes Pub & Bistro where you can enjoy an evening of music with our Resident Musician.

Tickets priced at €60, are now available and can be purchased from the hotel reception or by calling (023) 88 33143. Should you decide to make an evening of it, we would be delighted to offer a reduced rate of €75 per person sharing. Enjoy overnight accommodation in a deluxe room with ocean view terrace or balcony and in the morning wake to Chef’s full Irish Buffet Breakfast. You will also enjoy access to the heated Seawater Therapy Pool, Sauna, Steam Room, Gym and Relaxation Areas.

We hope you will join us for what promises to be another great Taste of West Cork Evening.”

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy


My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy

Irouleguy, not far from the Pyrenees, is among the smallest of the French appellations. It is situated in the Pays Basque and is the only AOC there.

This June, I bought some wines after a tasting in La Cave Irouleguy in the town of St Etienne de Baigorry, which is 32 miles inland from Biarritz. The wines are excellent and the AOC is well worth a visit if you are holidaying on that lovely stretch of the Atlantic Coast.

The grapes used for the red wines are Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites, they use Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Courbu. For me, the highlight was a rosé, which had no less than 80% Tannat!


Argi D’Ansa, Rosé 2011, 12.5%
This is a rich looking pink with a fruity (strawberry) nose. It is fruity and dry, entirely loveable and gluggable. Love at first swallow.

The stern reputation of Tannat can put punters off. “The man’s grape” you hear. Maybe so. But add in 10% Cab Sauv and 10% Cab Franc and you end up with this gem or, at least, the winemakers of Irouleguy did! If you do get down that way, look out for this Gold Medal winner at Paris 2012.

Xuri, White 2011, 14%
Has a clean golden colour, with complex aromas: fruity and floral. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity, full and elegant, dry and well balanced, second glass appeal. Pronounced Churi, is has been aged on its lees in barrels and casks. It won a Silver medal in Paris 2012. I’d have given it Gold!

Grapes: Gros Manseng 60%, Petit Manseng 30%, Courbu 10%.

Andere D’Ansa, White 2011, 13.5%
This is a Gold medal winner from Paris 2012. It has been two months on lees and the grapes used are Gros Manseng (80%) and Petit Manseng.

Colour is a lovely clean Gold/Green and the nose is aromatic with minty herby hints. On the palate it is dry and fruity (mango, citrus and pineapple). It is fresh and zingy with a sharp finish. Said to go well with fish (including shellfish), sheeps cheese (Including the local Ossau Iraty), Asian cuisine and may be also drank as an aperitif. Another good one.

Gorri D’Ansa, Red 2009, 13.5%
This red, a Gold Medal winner at Paris 2011, has a dark ruby colour and black fruit aromas with hints of white pepper. On the palate it is fruity and slightly spicy with active tannins. This is nicely rounded, a wine of character but perhaps not for beginners. Recommended for lamb, duck and cheese.

The fruit is hand harvested and most of the reds have a high proportion of the Tannat grape. This, with 60%, is no exception. The other grapes are 30% Cab Franc and 10% Cab Sauv.

Premia, Red 2010, 12.5%
Tough going on the steep terraced slopes of Irouleguy and they don’t want to waste all that hard work on crap wines. Quality is the over-riding aim and they achieve it quite regularly as they do here.
This is dark red with a nose of red fruits (Raspberry for me) and floral notes. It has excellent balance, is tasty and fruity, smooth with a good long aromatic finish. Superb match for grilled meats, charcuterie and cheese.

Domaine de Mignaberry, Red 2010, 13.5%
I’m told this is a pretty good one but I’m also told to hold on to it for another three to five years. Will do my best!
The blend is 60% Tannat, 20% Cab Sauv and 20% Cab Franc.