Outdoor Bliss at The Glebe Gardens Cafe

The Glebe Gardens Cafe

Entrance

 Great to eat outdoors under the sun and even better to eat something special. I enjoyed just such an occasion last week in the Cafe at The Glebe Gardens in Baltimore, a terrific location with innovative cooking and very friendly staff.

They do have an indoors but we ate in a courtyard type setting, out there with the birds and the bees, the sun shining and the specials on the board. CL picked the special soup: Courgette, Pea and Mint (€6.00). The balance of the ingredients was finely judged and, along with some gorgeous bread, with seeds inside and out, it was a terrific start.

I was just as happy with mine, The 3 Fish Chowder (€8.00), a regular item on the menu. It was described as a large bowl of chowder. It sure was large and it was also top notch. Also got the seeded bread with that.

We both agreed on the main course: Goats Cheese, Quinoa and Herb fritters, served with a garden salad (the garden is behind the wall), and Glebe tomato and chilli jam (€9.50). Again, a terrific combination of ingredients with the spicy and herby bits enhancing, rather than overpowering, the main ingredients. Really top class and at a decent price.

We should have been satisfied at that point but with class cooking so far, there was no way we were going to skip dessert, especially since we had been tempted all along by that big blackboard on the opposite wall.

I picked the lovely Peach and Almond Tart, excellent and well balanced. But the best looking dessert was at the other side where CL was tucking into the Lemon Curd Meringue Cake, easy on the eye and so sweet to eat. “The best dessert I’ve ever had,” she declared. Begged a few spoonfuls and agreed it was something else. A pretty photograph for sure and a delightful dessert for certain. Each dessert cost a fiver.

We were in the area for the fabulous Taste of West Cork festival and the Glebe told us they were also taking part. A treat indeed for those lucky punters who booked their “From Plot to Plate Evening”. Watch out for that event next year but you’ll be welcome at The Glebe anytime. Not quite anytime – make sure to check the site  for opening times. Oh, one more thing: they don't accept credit cards. Highly recommended.

My take on the Celtic Cook-off

 

Clockwise from top left: John McKenna (MC), Stephane Delourme,  Jack Stein,  Tony Singh,
Ian Bennett ,   Butch Buttery,  Garry O'Hanlon  

The Celtic chefs: their dishes and their thoughts

My take on the Celtic Cook-off

It looks as if all six Celtic Cook-off chefs enjoyed this week’s visit to West Cork and hopes are high that some of them will be back again, following the example of Roy Brett the 2011 champion.

Roy, whose restaurant is the Ondine in Edinburgh, was guest chef at the West Cork Hotel on Tuesday night where he displayed his talents with a fantastic meal called A Taste of Ondine, one of the highlights for the week.

But a highlight for Roy and he said as much at the Cook-off on Wednesday was the Secondary Schools Cookery Competition. “This was one of the best moments. We can learn from the children, the food is part of their blood. The winners, the Mercy Heights, were outstanding, the food was incredible. The kids here have a great knowledge of food.”

It was a sentiment echoed by Jack Stein who served up a dish of Monkfish Cheeks as his meal in the Cook-off. “Food, culture, music, all the same thing,” he said, echoing the words I heard not too long ago from Kay Harte of Cork’s Farmgate.

Interview by MC John McKenna, Stein went on to emphasise the part that these elements, food in particular, can play in improving local life and keeping the kids at home. “Good restaurants draw people in and extend the holiday season”. A point emphasised by the fact that the Stein organisation in Cornwall employs some 450 people!

Stephane Delourme (from Brittany) also works with the Stein company, at the Seafood Restaurant in Padstow. Before that he worked in Dublin and was a regular visitor to Baltimore which he loved. He has noticed a huge improvement in Irish food over the last 13 or 14 years. He served up a dish of Dover Sole with local mussels, vegetables and beans from Brittany.

There was a big welcome for Wales representative Ian Bennett (of the Welcome to Town Restaurant) and he spoke of a fairly similar food scene in his native country where his fisherman rings him from the boat and tells him what he has. “You can’t get fresher than that!” Not surprisingly, fish featured in his dish: Union Hall Turbot with mussels, parsnips and Stonewell cider. By the way, we weren't supplied with a list of ingredients for the dishes so my lists are not complete!

Garry O’Hanlon of the Viewmount House in Longford won the Cook-off with his Hill Lamb (loin), a current dish in the restaurant. Local vegetables and fried bone marrow featured in the dish as did the newish West Cork Garlic, treated with a little local honey. I liked Garry’s modus operandi: “Find the ingredients, then bounce from there.”

Tony Singh, the man who “brought cocktails to Edinburgh” is co-founder of that city’s acclaimed restaurant Oloroso. He said we had fantastic produce here and used lamb and langoustines, spicy potato and a minted herb salsa verde. MC John McKenna praised Tony for using the spices “with sympathy and knowledge”.

Baltimore seafood featured heavily in Butch Buttery’s dish. Among many other roles, Butch is chef and recipe consultant for the Manx Organic Network and Island Seafoods. Langoustines, lobster, prawns, mussels and monkfish, even Sally Barnes’ fabulous smoked haddock, not forgetting his Isle of Man scallops (each chef was allowed an ingredient from home) were all added to the Bisque type mix.

It looked well too with the langoustines attempting to escape the bowl. Butch though said that this wasn't a “dish to worship, get it in and get it down.”

‘It’s a tribute to the quality of our award-winning West Cork producers that top chefs are so willing to come to West Cork and cook with our world class food,’ said Neil Grant, manager of the West Cork Hotel. ‘All of this year’s competitors have been truly impressed by the produce available to us here and these are chefs at the top of their game, they don’t mince their words!’

“It is great festival, unbelievable the amount of voluntary work that goes into it. A massive thanks to the suppliers, sponsors, judges, to the chefs and to Roy Brett who has been a brilliant ambassador for us. Must also mention Fáilte Ireland, great backers and here in force this evening.”

Neil had praise for Clare Gallagher, chairperson of the organising committee, for Avril Allshire, and Sally Barnes and Stephen Sage, his colleagues on the Working Group. It was a very enjoyable evening, though I thought the visual delivery to the 200 plus audience in the ballroom lacked a bit but I’m told they are working on that for next year.

So onwards and upwards with the Celtic Cook-off. The more we pull together the further we will go!

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Pictured at the announcement were Bernadette Byrne, Bord Bia, Ross Lewis, Chef, Chapter One and Florent Suplisson, Director of Bocuse d’Or

Irish Beef

Irish beef has been selected as a key ingredient for Bocuse d’Or, the esteemed French and world renowned, culinary competition. The Bocuse d’Or held every two years in Lyon, France, is regarded as the most challenging and prestigious haute cuisine cooking competition. The selection of Irish beef, following a rigorous and lengthy process by the Bocuse d’Or International Organisation Committee, was based on its grass fed nature meaning the product is of a high quality in terms of tenderness, taste and texture. Securing this much sought after accolade is an invaluable endorsement and recognition of Irish beef.
 Referred to as the Olympics of the culinary world, the Bocuse d’Or was pioneered and named after a 3 Star Michelin Chef, Paul Bocuse, in order to broaden the public’s understanding of the extraordinary dedication, practice and precision required to execute the very finest cuisine. Securing a place as a chef in the Bocuse d’Or Finals is an honour in its own right and involves months of preparation and planning whilst beating off stiff competition in the World Series of qualifying rounds and heats.
Much more on the Bocuse d’Or and our Irish beef here

Milleens 
The Steele Family, founders of Milleens Cheese and pioneers of cheese making in Ireland, will be at Bandon’s URRU on September 29th for a special event.
The Art of Living – in conversation with the Steele Family will take place as part of the Bandon Arts Festival on Saturday, September 29th at 5.30pm in Urru Culinary Store, McSwiney Quay, Bandon.

The around-the-table conversation will be led by West Cork based food writer Dianne Curtin and active audience participation will be encouraged. Milleens cheese based canapés and refreshments will be served.There is no entry charge for the event however as space is limited to 30 people early arrival is recommended.

Greene’s feed the Palace
Well, maybe not that royal palace, but McCurtain Street restaurant Green’s are stepping up to the plate in a big way this weekend to help their neighbours, The Everyman Palace Theatre. The Palace has a double Tom Murphy bill on this Saturday, one show (A Whistle in the Dark) at 3.00pm and a second (Conversations on a Homecoming) at 8.00pm).

Greene’s will help feed the assembled troops and will open an hour earlier (5pm) Saturday, to feed those of you who'd like to dine between watching the Druid Murphy double bill! That’s the way to do it. The more we pull together, the further we will go.

20 Nations To Compete In World Oyster Opening Championship
The Guinness World Oyster Opening Championship will take place on Saturday 29th September in the festival marquee, 12pm-7pm. The 58th Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival and will see contestants from 20 countries around the globe battle it out to become the 2012 World Champion! Tickets are €70 and include admission, half a dozen oysters, 2 tastes at the Food Village, a complimentary beverage and non-stop entertainment from 12pm-7pm.

Books and Food
If you like books and food, then Kilkenny’s Graignamanagh is the place to be on Sunday 23rd according to Twitter’s ‏@TownOfBooksFest. They have an artisan food & craft market on on the Sun 23rd (11.00am to 5.00pm), featuring chef @EdwardHayden. The bookfest by the way starts on the Friday and you may see the full programme here.

Drinks
Ballymaloe’s Early Start

There is a 4.30pm start next Sunday for the New Zealand Wine Adventure at The Grain Store at Ballymaloe. The event features New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay. Meet the winemakers, listen to their story, and taste their wines over a tutored tasting. A great way to learn more about New Zealand and its wonderful wines. This Sunday, at 4.30pm. € 15 (includes wine presentation and wine tasting)

Gary Gubbins of Red Nose Wine tells me he has finally given in to the pressure: “I have been asked about a wine course for many years and while I have given them to larger groups on request, we haven't yet run our own in house course. The planned one will be a 5 week course. More details to follow but the basics - It will start some time in October (date TBC) and will cost €75. It will be on from 7.30-9pm in the warehouse but at least one of evenings we want to move the class near a kitchen and match some wines to food. All details will be posted up soon on our Facebook page ( give us a Like ) as well as in the shop and on the next newsletter.”

Shorts

@tastewestfest  - Join us for a bite at Taste of Westfest Sat 15 & Sun 16 Sept, Newcastle West, Co Limerick - part of the Knights of Westfest Music extravaganza 12-16 Sept.

Meet the Goat this Saturday, 15th September, at Castlemary Farm, Cloyne; see how cheese is made from milk fresh from the goats and enjoy some tastings and a mini BBQ. Elke of @biasats filled me in: “Olive is our host for this event and she is looking forward to meeting you all. Price per person is €15 which includes tastings & BBQ as well as information about goats farming. Children are welcome and go free but as this is a working farm, need to be supervised. Please email biasasta@hotmail.com to book your place.”

On Saturday 29th September 2012 - 8:00pm in the Temperance Hall, Emmet Street, Kinsale, go and see Betrayal,  A One Man Play By Bill Griffin, in support of Breakthrough Cancer Research. Not a food event, but a good cause.

Garry O'Hanlon Tops In West Cork Test

Garry O'Hanlon Tops In West Cork Test


Donegal man Garry O’Hanlon came out in top in the Celtic Cook-off at a packed ballroom in the West Cork Hotel (Skibbereen) last night. MC John McKenna said that all six chefs were winners but Garry got the nod in a very tight contest.

Representatives from the other five Celtic territories included Jack Stein (Cornwall) son of restaurateur, chef and TV presenter Rick Stein, Ian Bennett, The Welcome to Town (Wales), Stephane Delourme, The Seafood Restaurant, Cornwall (representing Brittany), Tony Singh, who owned Oloroso Bar and restaurant for over 10 years (Scotland), and Butch Buttery, formerly of Tanroagan (Isle of Man).

The ‘Ready Steady Cook’ style cook off style event saw the master chefs split in to two groups where they each had just thirty minutes to impress the judges using West Cork artisan produce and one ingredient from their home turf. They were also assisted by three young aspiring chefs to help them with preparation and serving.

O’Hanlon’s dish of Loin of Hill Lamb, with bone marrow and wild artichoke, etc, and enhanced by, among other things, West Cork Garlic with honey, just won the favour of the judges who commended Garry on his use of Irish and local ingredients.

Speaking of the event, Neil Grant, General Manager, West Cork Hotel said “We were thrilled to host such a successful night again this year. The Celtic Cook Off has become a landmark food event for the Celtic regions of Northern Europe since its inception last year and we at The West Cork Hotel are proud to play host to the region’s finest chefs."

He continued, “The Celtic Cook Off opens new doors to local producers and extends the export potential of their products. They also have the chance to promote their fare to top international chefs and be recognised as the “go to people” for the best artisan produce in the world”.


A Taste of West Cork Food festival continues until this Sunday with a number of highlight events still to come including an intimate concert with Declan O’Rourke on Saturday night, many free cookery demonstrations throughout Skibbereen and the finale event of the harvest country fair on Sunday with more than 100 local producers exhibiting their artisan products.
• We’ll have more on the event in the next few days!

Old Vine special and Ballymaloe event

Beso de Vino, Old Vine Garnacha 2010, Cariñena DO Spain, 13.5%, €9.00-11.00 stockists

I’m a sucker for old vine wines and this medium red, with its aromas of dark fruits (cherry and plum) is no exception. It is a delicious mix of fruit, spice and herb flavours, with an excellent balance and a long kiss goodbye.

Indeed it is a little like that little bull Antonio that gets his pic on all the bottles: forward, but in a nice kind of way. An excellent wine at a brilliant price. Highly recommended.

===============================================================

Ballymaloe Wine Event, next Sunday

 ‘A New Zealand Wine Adventure in Ballymaloe’, Sunday 16th September, 4.30pm

With New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay.

Meet the winemakers, listen to their story, and taste their wines with a wine tasting given by the winemakers. A great way to learn more about New Zealand and its wonderful wines. This Sunday, at 4.30pm, in The Grain Store, at Ballymaloe. € 15 (includes wine presentation and wine tasting). Tel:             021 4652531       colm@ballymaloe.ie

Inchydoney Island Taste of West Cork

Sweet, sweet Inchydoney

Inchydoney Island Taste of West Cork

Hannah-Rose Farrington of the Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa has been in touch to tell us all about their tempting Autumn Food and Wine Evening



“As we welcome Autumn and all the wonderful harvest it brings, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa are delighted to announce their Taste of West Cork Autumn Food & Wine Evening which will be held at 7.30pm Friday 21st September.

The Taste of West Cork Evening is a unique evening to showcase the best of West Cork produce and artisan producers. The team of Chefs are already working on combining the wonderful autumnal produce to create exciting flavours mixed with exquisite presentation.

The evening will begin with a Champagne and Canapé Drinks Reception at 8.00pm, followed by a 7 course Autumn Tasting Menu, created by Head Chef Adam Medcalf and his team. Filled with flair and imagination the evening will combine the best of seasonal produce from West Cork which will be paired with wines carefully chosen by Harriett Tindal of Tindal Wines.

Once you have enjoyed the Seasonal Menu and paired Wines, we invite you to complete the evening in Dunes Pub & Bistro where you can enjoy an evening of music with our Resident Musician.

Tickets priced at €60, are now available and can be purchased from the hotel reception or by calling (023) 88 33143. Should you decide to make an evening of it, we would be delighted to offer a reduced rate of €75 per person sharing. Enjoy overnight accommodation in a deluxe room with ocean view terrace or balcony and in the morning wake to Chef’s full Irish Buffet Breakfast. You will also enjoy access to the heated Seawater Therapy Pool, Sauna, Steam Room, Gym and Relaxation Areas.

We hope you will join us for what promises to be another great Taste of West Cork Evening.”

My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy

My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy

Irouleguy, not far from the Pyrenees, is among the smallest of the French appellations. It is situated in the Pays Basque and is the only AOC there.

This June, I bought some wines after a tasting in La Cave Irouleguy in the town of St Etienne de Baigorry, which is 32 miles inland from Biarritz. The wines are excellent and the AOC is well worth a visit if you are holidaying on that lovely stretch of the Atlantic Coast.

The grapes used for the red wines are Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites, they use Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Courbu. For me, the highlight was a rosé, which had no less than 80% Tannat!

Argi D’Ansa, Rosé 2011, 12.5%
This is a rich looking pink with a fruity (strawberry) nose. It is fruity and dry, entirely loveable and gluggable. Love at first swallow.

The stern reputation of Tannat can put punters off. “The man’s grape” you hear. Maybe so. But add in 10% Cab Sauv and 10% Cab Franc and you end up with this gem or, at least, the winemakers of Irouleguy did! If you do get down that way, look out for this Gold Medal winner at Paris 2012.

Xuri, White 2011, 14%
Has a clean golden colour, with complex aromas: fruity and floral. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity, full and elegant, dry and well balanced, second glass appeal. Pronounced Churi, is has been aged on its lees in barrels and casks. It won a Silver medal in Paris 2012. I’d have given it Gold!

Grapes: Gros Manseng 60%, Petit Manseng 30%, Courbu 10%.

Andere D’Ansa, White 2011, 13.5%
This is a Gold medal winner from Paris 2012. It has been two months on lees and the grapes used are Gros Manseng (80%) and Petit Manseng.

Colour is a lovely clean Gold/Green and the nose is aromatic with minty herby hints. On the palate it is dry and fruity (mango, citrus and pineapple). It is fresh and zingy with a sharp finish. Said to go well with fish (including shellfish), sheeps cheese (Including the local Ossau Iraty), Asian cuisine and may be also drank as an aperitif. Another good one.

Gorri D’Ansa, Red 2009, 13.5%
This red, a Gold Medal winner at Paris 2011, has a dark ruby colour and black fruit aromas with hints of white pepper. On the palate it is fruity and slightly spicy with active tannins. This is nicely rounded, a wine of character but perhaps not for beginners. Recommended for lamb, duck and cheese.

The fruit is hand harvested and most of the reds have a high proportion of the Tannat grape. This, with 60%, is no exception. The other grapes are 30% Cab Franc and 10% Cab Sauv.

Premia, Red 2010, 12.5%
Tough going on the steep terraced slopes of Irouleguy and they don’t want to waste all that hard work on crap wines. Quality is the over-riding aim and they achieve it quite regularly as they do here.
This is dark red with a nose of red fruits (Raspberry for me) and floral notes. It has excellent balance, is tasty and fruity, smooth with a good long aromatic finish. Superb match for grilled meats, charcuterie and cheese.

Domaine de Mignaberry, Red 2010, 13.5%
I’m told this is a pretty good one but I’m also told to hold on to it for another three to five years. Will do my best!
The blend is 60% Tannat, 20% Cab Sauv and 20% Cab Franc.

Aherlow House Hotel Spanish Chef. Local Food.

Aherlow House Hotel
Spanish Chef. Local Food.

View from the dining room.

Had a mini-break recently in the spectacularly located Aherlow House Hotel and enjoyed it immensely. Great views and terrific food. Not forgetting the friendly service.

That service started and ended with the reception crew but, in between, was also seen and appreciated in the bar and the restaurant. They serve food in the bar but we went for the appropriately named Treetops Restaurant.

Its huge windows give you a massive view over the Galtee mountains to the south as does the outdoor seating area. But it also dishes out some gorgeous food, much of it supplied locally. On the evening we were there, the beef and lamb came from near neighbour Tom Lewis, the veg was supplied by Eden Growers (Tipperary Town) while the fish came from Atlantis Seafood in Kilmore Quay. Well done to Spanish chef Jose.

Clockwise from top left: Pavlova, Smoked Salmon, Cheeseboard, wine, steak,
duck with fennel, grilled Asparagus & Peppers.

Smoked salmon was available at dinner and at breakfast and that, coming from the Burren Smokehouse, was a delight. Great too to see cheese makers Gubbeen, Cashel Blue and Cooleeney represented.

I had that very Smoked Salmon, with poached Tiger Prawns and a rocket and lemon dressing, for my top drawer starter while CL was also very happy with her gorgeous Grilled Asparagus, Roast Red Peppers and Coriander dressing.

I had some of that Lewis beef in the shape of a Pan Fried Ribeye Steak with Homemade Onion Rings and Sweet Potato Chips. Tender, delicious and cooked as requested. The other mains, another winner, was Breast of Duck with roasted Fennel, Celeriac Fondant, Caramelised Pear with a Honey and Thyme Sauce. Cracking stuff.

Dessert too was well up to standard, especially that Cheeseplate, served with a Tomato and Apple chutney, Celery, Grapes and Artisan biscuits. I enjoyed my Mess of Pavlova with fresh Raspberries and Strawberries and Chantilly Cream.

And the wine came from Spain and quite good it was: La Cruz Tempranillo and Syrah, a delicious warming blend, red berries and spice, from Finca Loranque Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.

The four course meal cost €35.00 per person, set price, while the wine came in at €22.00. No wine at breakfast, but again a terrific choice, including that Burren Smoked Salmon. Terrific friendly place to stay and all very helpful with queries on the local attractions, especially the lovely walks, many of which start close to the hotel.

Click on the links to read a fuller account of the brief stay.
Glen of Aherlow  Cahir Castle  and the Swiss Cottage.

Old Shop. New online.

Bradley’s Now Online!

When I started buying beer in Bradley’s, I was conscious of resuming a family tradition. But with a difference. My father would have bought bottled Guinness but the black stuff I was buying was from craft breweries in places like Kerry, Waterford, Carlow and nearer home. Bradley’s are a great supporter of craft beers (and ciders) and have a fantastic selection.

A few years back, I was in a local wine store and they were amazed at the quality of the wines in Bradley’s. “He must have some buyer,” they said admiringly. And that sterling selection is still available.

When you visit, be sure and take a look too at the Sherries, the gins, the whiskeys. Fantastic selections. And if Michael Creedon hasn’t got it in stock, he’ll get it for you.

Man doesn’t live on beer alone of course. You gotta have bread. And Bradley’s, founded in 1850, have the best of it, the beautiful loaves produced by Cork's own Arbutus. Great stuff. And if you like jam on the break, then look no further then Gs’ award winning jars, another proud addition to the shelves in this amazing store.

And they has so much more, such as great porridge oats from places like Kilbeggan and Ballybrado, cereal from Staple Diet, local honey, coffee from Fermoy's Badger and Dodo.

But not much good having shelves groaning with the best of products unless you have the service to go with it. And here too Bradley's excel. Expert advice and knowledge is just a question away. A lovely store to visit and a great place to make a purchase. And now you may purchase online. Take a look at their spanking new website!

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Birgitta

Fit for a queen

Met three champions from Clare at Ballymaloe last evening. The first, Skillogalee founder Dave Palmer, comes for the Clare Valley in Australia, while the other two, Birgitta Curtin of the Burren Smokehouse and Siobhan Ni Ghairbhith of St Tola, come from our own County Clare, after which the Australian valley is named. It was a promising line-up and they delivered big time.

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe greeted us all with a Skillogalee Sparkling Riesling. “A very unusual wine, only four or five are made in Oz,” said Dave. “It is light, dry and refreshing and aromatic. It is a properly made sparkler, bottle fermented and aged on its lees.” Great start.

Siobhan

Hard

Ash

Dave then took to the stage at the Grain Store to introduce his two whites for the evening: the Riesling 2011 and the Gewurztraminer 2011. “These are cold climate wines. We pick pristine fruit and try to preserve it all the way through”. These were matched with the soft goats cheeses and the smoked salmon. “Matches made in heaven,” according to Dave. “I think the lemon and lime flavours in the wine is one of the reasons.”

Next on the wine list was the Rosé (a Cabernet Malbec blend) 2011, a rosé “with attitude..brings out the summer berry characters”. Delightful all the way through from its initial beautiful strawberry bouquet.

Two Gold medal winning reds followed as the high standard was maintained: The Cabernets 2007 and the Shiraz 2008. Quality control is vital in Skillogalee and you won’t find The Cabernets 2008. They didn’t make it as the fruit wasn't good enough.

The reds were matched with the St Tola Hard Cheese, just three months old. Very good now, like Gouda, but Siobhan promised it will get better as it matures (more like Parmesan in the end).

Dave

Quite often, the language of wine maker and food producer is the same. They are one and all affected by factors outside their control including the obvious one of the weather. They are one and all dependent on their terroir. Siobhan knows that if she were to transport her 200 plus goats to an inland county that the cheese flavours would be different.

“We have a peaty soil near the Atlantic. The St Tola Log cheese is quite natural, a little fruity, hints of the peat and undertones of salt. The St Tola Ash is made in the same way but in smaller log and is rolled in a food grade charcoal to produce the Ash rim. The Ash makes it stand out on the cheeseboard and keeps it fresh.”

The hard cheese is weather dependent, made only in summer with surplus milk. In a good year, St Tola make it from May to July/August but this bad summer they were curtailed to making it from June to mid July.

It soon became obvious that you really need to know what you are doing with hard cheese. “Timing is very important. If done wrongly, it can even explode!” With its beautiful taste and texture and creaminess, it proved a great match for the Cabernets.

Just like Dave and Diane Palmer, Birgitta and Peter started their Clare business about 23 years ago. Now the Burren Smokehouse is internationally recognised and its products are stocked in speciality food shops in places such as London, US and Kuwait. They too set high standards and their excellence has been regularly recognised and many awards have come their way.

They love their location but even here there are challenges, like the scarcity of wild salmon. She told us the wild salmon is a little drier and the flavour lingers a little longer. They get theirs from a fisherman on the Nore and it ends up in the most unexpected places. Like the Queen’s table, for example. Last year, during the Queen's visit, Ross Lewis choose Burren Smokehouse Wild Salmon for the state banquet. Another honour for Birgitta and company!

Birgitta is Swedish and explained that hot smoking is prevalent in her home country while cold smoking is more common in Ireland. She showed a selection at Ballymaloe, including the Donegal Silver (fresh, sweet and full of Omega3) and the slightly paler Clare Island.

Her Hot Smoked Organic Salmon “is slightly spiced, fully cooked and more meaty.” Birgitta suggested it is a good way to get young people interested in smoked fish though she suspected that “the real fish eaters might prefer cold smoked”.

The Burren Smokehouse is quite a tourist attraction. “Some 30,000 people visit us each year, 10,000 of them from France. Please call in!”

A terrific entertaining and informative evening was drawing to a close but, with Dave Palmer on hand, there was to be a sweet ending, a tasting of the famous Skillogalee Liqueur Muscat, made like a Tawny Port, the fermentation stopped at the right point (the tricky part) leaving a 25% sugar content. Great nose and great flavours, not at all cloying and with a long lingering finale.

Thanks to Dave and Dianne Palmer, to Birgitta and Siobhan and indeed to Colm and all at Ballymaloe.

Amuse Bouche

The entrance to the restaurant is lined with cages of snakes, cats and tortoises. A man takes a skinned dog off his bicycle rack and delivers it to the kitchen. The fish and prawns jumping in enamel basins splash water onto the stone floor and remind one the sea is not far away.

There really is nothing Guangzhou people do not eat. Tonight I have tasted snake, cat, turtle and raw fish.

From Red Dust by Ma Jian

Sun Shines on Midleton Food Festival

Midleton Food Festival

Top centre: Birthday boy Barrie Tyner at the Farmers Market

and, right, Mella and her award winning Fudge at the Festival

Enjoyed my ramble through the busy Midleton Food Festival yesterday morning. We had a couple of bags with us but were soon presented with another by the Festival folks as we walked down the main street.

Lots of activity. There was a small craft fair in one side street, a photo exhibition in another. Perhaps the best off-street atmosphere was at Sage Restaurant where their courtyard saw salads being served nonstop, punters relaxing in the sun on giant bean-bags and a live band in action. “Like a mini Electric picnic,” quipped Head Chef Kevin Aherne.

Back then to the big picnic on the street. Lots of hot food available, including kangaroo steaks. On the Pig's Back were busy as was Ballymaloe Relish and they were lining up to sample Mella’s gorgeous fudge. Seymours gorgeous biscuits were also in demand and I helped myself to a few packets of the Cheese Biscuits.

Day’s of Whitegate had a big stand and a big crowd. Ballycotton Seafood were also busy; picked up some fresh John Dory there and also a bunch of mackerel. Big rings of Clonakilty black pudding were being cooked in huge batches and sold on the spot. Close by, BBQ Joe’s were ready for action.

Some of the local restaurants, including Pizzeria San Marco, joined in the spirit of the day and the pizza slices were in demand. There is only so much food you can eat on a walk-through like this and I was more than happy with a tender steak sandwich from local butcher Jim Crowley, unbelievably tender!

Lots of hot food about but not too many producers in the Festival itself. To find them in numbers, you had to go to the usual Saturday morning market, and an excellent one it is, at the Cork side of the town. I’ve often thought that these producers, in Midleton every Saturday of the year, should be given pride of place on the main street on Festival day. I think it would add a solid backbone to the whole experience.

This band of musicians get attention!

Buffalo Tasting at The Mills Inn

From tongue to tail in Ballyvourney
The Buffalo Tasting Evening in The Mills Inn.


"Failte roimh gach einne chuig an Dinnear Speisialta. Ta suil againn go mbainsidh sibh taithneamh as an ocaid seo."

These were the words of greeting as we arrived at the Mills Inn in Ballyvourney for the first ever tasting dinner for the local Toons Bridge buffalo meat. We certainly enjoyed the occasion which started with Don O’Leary of the Mills introducing us to the men behind the buffalo venture, Toby Simmons (The Real Olive Company) and Johnny Lynch (farmer).

It all started over a drink just three years ago. There was some trepidation about the buffalo, that the Irish wouldn't take to them. But, as Toby said last night, everybody is fascinated by the buffalo. And that was underlined when the farm was the subject of TG4 documentary Cogar: Buabhaill ar na Bánta (Where the Buffaloes Roam).

Don O'Leary said the joint venture by the two local men has been an inspiration to people in the area and has been an eye-opener. It could lead to a few more entrepreneurs starting up and indeed there is one venture currently brewing, involving local skill and ingredients, that may well be up and running by Christmas. We’ll keep you posted!

The starter plate: Poached Buffalo Tongue with its own mousse and Cauliflower Pickle; Buffalo Mozzarella with Pesto and Sun Blushed Tomato; Carpaccio of Buffalo with Rocket Salad, Buffalo Cheese and White Truffle Oil.

Buffalo Broth with Autumn root vegetable and a Tailmeat Wanton (served with Mills Brown Bread and Buffalo Cream Butter).

Pan Roasted Aged Dry Buffalo Sirloin with a Potato Gratin and a Buffalo Milk Horseradish and Mixed Pepper Ice Cream, Caramelised Onion Puree and Roast Garlic Jus; Fillet of Buffalo and Wild Mushroom Cottage pie with a Colcannon Kale.

Toons Bridge Buffalo Ricotta with local Ballyvourney Honey on a Sweet Tuille;

Buffalo Cream and Blackberry Tiramisu.

As I said at the start, Buffalo from tongue to tail. With Buffalo in every course, this meal ran the risk of being boring! But it was far from that and here great credit must go to the Mills chefs, Kevin Purcell (Head) and Alan Rossborough, who put a lot of work and thought into the menu.

But what did the meat taste like? Unless you were expecting something exotic, you would not have been disappointed. After all, the Buffalo is a bovine, as is your normal cow. The main course, particularly the Sirloin, perhaps provided the clearest tasting and I must say it was very pleasing indeed. Some wines are described as easy drinking. Well, this was easy eating. Delighted with it, taste and texture.

Much depends of course on how any meat is handled. This was killed about five weeks back and was beautiful and tender. Ballincollig's Christoir O'Crualaoi was the butcher and I met him at the meal. He was very happy with the outcome and aptly described the meat as a mild beef with hints of lamb. In any event, it is a fine meat that can easily find a place on the Irish plate and a welcome on the palate.

Everyone had their own favourite course. I enjoyed them all. The broth though was a highlight also, really tasty and warming.

Many of you by now know and appreciate the Mozzarella coming from Toons Bridge. I hadn’t tasted the Ricotta before but, combined with a dash or two of the local honey, it turned out to be a gorgeous surprise as indeed did that whiter than white sliced butter, once I recognized it as such. Thought it was a cheese at first. 

It was that kind of night. A night to learn and explore. Hope you get the chance soon. Indeed, if you are in the Cork area on Sunday why not pop in to the Mills Inn at lunchtime where you’ll find Buffalo on the menu!