Dining with Serge Blanco & A Town full of peppers

DAY 5

May 30th, Wednesday

More pics from this trip here

Lots on today but let us start at the end, in La Pinta, a restaurant, one of many businesses owned by former French rugby international Serge Blanco. We called up there this evening to his Bodega, Bar, Restaurant, Cideria, on the spit of land between the port and beach of Hendaye and signed on for the €32.00 Menu Cidrerie. 

Basically, it was a five course meal. And over its course you were free to drink as much cider (from the barrels) as you could manage. Wow! From start to finish this was top notch and we enjoyed it very much.

Almost  as soon as we put in the order, a jug of cider (the cloudy dry local variety) and a basket of bread appeared on the table. Then came the aperitif: a spicy local sausage in a cider sauce.

Next up was the starter, a cod omelette. Never had a fish omelette before but this was the business. Cod also featured in the fish dish, grilled in the local manner and served with fried peppers and onions. Absolutely spot on.

Now for the big one as a smoking hot piece of beef still cooking in the pan was delivered to the table along with a plateful of salad and another of French fries. Cooked the beef bit by bit and ate away to our hearts’ content. Maybe I shouldn’t have mentioned the word heart here. But the beef was irresistible.

Time to close it out now, though the cider still flowed on. The final dish was a cheese, Fromage de Bebris, made from ewes’ milk in the nearby Pyrenees. A gorgeous cheese served with a quince pate and whole walnuts (with a nut cracker in the basket). A terrific finish to a very enjoyable meal.

The day had also begun with food as we visited the Wednesday market in the centre of Hendaye. Found a free range pig farmer and got a few slices of his top notch cured ham along with a wedge of another famous local cheese: Iraty Ossau, also made from sheep milk. Other bits and pieces included a Black Cherry cake, strawberries and olives.

In the afternoon, with a cloudy haze coming in over the mountains, we aborted a trip to the top of the La Rhune mountain and visited a few nearby Basque villages, include Sare where we saw an unusual multi-galleried church and the more usual fronton (where kids were trying their hand at pelota, though without the racket).

Then on to the village of Espelette, famous for its sweet red peppers which they hang on the walls to dry. They were on the Post Office wall, on the Spar wall, on the Hotel wall, everywhere. Got some at a local producer and a few other bits and pieces, including a first bottle of the local Txakoli wine,  before visiting a local chocolatier where we took on a bus load of pensioners and emerged  from the scrum with a couple of bags of the tasty stuff for ourselves.

Hondarribia. Old and beautiful Basque town.

Crossing to Spain, while another ferry returns

More photos from this trip here

Hondarribia

Bacalao

Tongue

Local cider

Smoked salmon salad

Macaroni

Day 4

May 29th, Tuesday


Went to Spain today for the price of a Cork bus ride. Made the short boat crossing from Hendaye on the French side of the River Bidasoa to Hondarribia on the Spanish for just €1.70.

The trip takes just a few minutes and soon we were strolling in the picturesque Spanish town, full of old buildings and narrow streets where the balconies almost meet and also saw a magnificent Parador (government hotel). Temperatures were up around the 25 degrees.

Then it was time for lunch and we found amazing value at the EAJ PNV restaurant which seemed to have a very busy trade indeed. Had brought a handy “gastronomic” dictionary for a fiver on board the Pont Aven (bought a similar French one a few years back).

The Spanish one really worked a treat at its first outing as we worked our way through the Menu del Dias which had six or seven choices for each of the first and second courses. I had the Macaroni cheese and tomato while CL enjoyed the Smoked Salmon salad. Both excellent.

Now for the second course. CL choose the Tongue with salsa (more or less a tomato sauce). Two succulent tender pieces of tongue were soon demolished. I gambled on the Bacalao (dried salted cod) with a brilliant pepper and onion sauce. They say it is an acquired taste. I have acquired it!

We were not too sure on the desserts as they weren't on the board and, with words failing us, we ordered something that turned out to be a decent piece of ice-cream. Flan and a Fruit salads were other options that we later discovered by looking around.

A big bottle of water was placed on the table at the start. We didn’t know it but this was standard and free. We also ordered cider and ended up with a 75cl bottle of a local natural brew that was nice and dry and a real thirst quencher for just one euro. Total bill came to €22.00. Decent food, amazing value, very nice people.

Did another bit of walking around and saw the school kids playing. In one yard, they had their roller skates on and were playing a lively game. No worries about public liability or claims here by the looks of it.

Then we made the return journey to Hendaye (enlived by a possible sighting of ZZ Top among the passengers) and, when we arrived back at the apartment, wasted little time in cooling down in the pool. Car hasn’t moved since we arrived on Sunday. Might change tomorrow afternoon. We will visit the local market tomorrow morning and see how it goes.

Hendaye, a beautiful place at the edge of France

Monday 28th May 2012
More photos from this trip here

Hendaye beach, with the "Twins", the rocks in background

Walk by the Bidasoa River in Hendaye

Hondarabbia, in Spain, just across the river

Pouring the rose

Jambon with melon, 1st course

Mixed salad, 1st course   

Chicken, 2nd course

Ommelete, 2nd course

Blackcurrant Ice-cream, dessert course
Above, all at the Ipar Haizea, this three course lunch, inc. glass of wine, cost €12.00. Coffee was €1.20 extra.

Mussells, with a Basque sauce

Moules mariniere

Crepe

At Santa Maria restaurant near the beach in Hendaye, in the evening, the mussles (available with six different sauces), cost €12.00 per person. The crepe was three euro while a 250ml carafe of local basque cider cost €2.80.

We spent the first day getting to know Hendaye, its beautiful bay and beach. The town is basically in two parts, the main town and the beach town where our apartment is located. The beach and port are minutes away and the railway station close enough also. We walked along by the bay to the station to get to know the place and to check the times for the narrow gauge railway service to San Sebastian.

Must say, with this gorgeous weather, the bay of Hendaye, with the foothills of the Pyrenees in the background, is one of the most beautiful places I've ever come across. Spain is just minutes away across the River Bidassoa. Did a fair bit of walking today and fully deserved the late afternoon dip in the pool!

White Wines Gems from Galicia

White Wines from Galicia

Thanks to the people at the winery of Terras Gauda in the Galicia, I’ve becoming better acquainted with the wines of Rías Baixas and with its sub zone in the valley of O Rosal in particular. It has been a very happy introduction.


Review of red wines from this company here

Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas 2011, 12.5% abv.

 

They call this “the flagship wine of the winery”, in the sense that they make more of it (1,200,000 bottles) than any other. The vines are estate grown in the valley and the wine’s personality comes from a blend of Albarino (70%), Loureiro (18%) and Caíño Blanco (12%).

It is an inviting clean greenish yellow in the bottle with aromas of peach and flowers. The generous nose is followed by a complex mouthfeel, no shortage of minerality or freshness. The stunning crispness and acidity is further revealed in a delightful long finish.

The summer of 2011 was a good one for the vines in the area and Terras Gauda made the best of it. Well worth a try. Highly recommended. Take note also that they recommended drinking it young!

Food matching. “The wine is rich on the palate and deserves seafood, especially oysters and crab, perfect with Asian Cuisine with rich and spicy sauces.” Well worth a try. Highly recommended.

Terras Gauda, Abadia de San Campio Albarino, Rías Baixas 2011, 12.5% abv.

This 100% Albarino, fresh and fragrant, is joy in its bottle with the distinctive beautiful blue labels. Colour is a clean green tinged yellow with definite traits of citrus and banana on the nose. The palate is filled with the fruit sensations. Yet is very well balanced with quite a long engaging finish. Excellent overall, shows the magnificent qualities of this increasingly popular grape. Very highly recommended.

Once again, aging is not recommended. You will also see some experts, such as Hugh Johnson Clarke, giving this the DYA designation, meaning drink youngest available! You’ve been warned!

Food matching: Enjoy chilled on a hot summer day. Wonderful pairing with shellfish: oyster, clam and crab. Enjoy with spicy Asian cuisine.

Terras Gauda, La Mar, Rías Baixas 2010, 12.7%abv.

A richer colour here and gorgeous aromatics on the nose. The same richness continue on the palate and yet there is an excellent balance. Very highly recommended indeed.

Just 20,000 bottles of this wine were made. The grapes used are Caíño Blanco (85%), Albarino (10%) and Loureiro (5%). The Caíño is a long cycle late ripening grape, more subject therefore to the whims of the weather and also “known for its scarce production...the least productive of the Galician varieties”.

Bottled in July 2011 and released last December, the makers say it will continue to evolve “in a period of at least three years...acquiring complexity and maturity”.

Food matching: Its high acidity makes it a perfect pairing for fish and seafood, but its powerful body and volume enlarges its pairing range to stews or roasted meats, and special or slightly spicy hot dishes.

Easy Trip to the Basque Country

Just started our Basque adventure last weekend with a lovely voyage with Brittany Ferries from Ringaskiddy to Roscoff. Enjoyed a terrific meal at the Le Flora onboard restaurant with my nephew and his wife who were returning to Paris with their gorgeous Golden Retriever Marley (he wasn't invited to the meal but got the best of care).
The journey to Hendaye on the French-Spanish border proved uneventful, aside from the fact that our Sat-Nav packed up. We made quite a few stops, including ones at the excellent Aire de Rennes and Aire de Vendee, and, having left the boat at about 8.00am, arrived here at 7.30pm.
The appartment is well located, within walking distance of a fantastic beach and a lovely busy port which has a cross river ferry to Spain.
More pics from this trip here

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, "sauce diplomate"

Creamy bouillon of sole with melted camembert

Top Prize for Truly Irish

Jim McGrath, Chairman, is pictured here with John Concannon, MD of JFC Manufacturing Co Ltd and Patrick McDonnell, on his Farm in New Inn Co Galway.

press release:

Truly Irish wins top prize at JFC Awards

Truly Irish are very excited to have won the overall prize worth €15,000 in the 2012 JFC Innovation Awards this month. The competition was sponsored by JFC and supported by Teagasc, DARD NI and the Irish Farmers Journal who all saw the potential in what Truly Irish have been trying to achieve since they began trading in 2009. It is a fantastic win for the farmers brand who are doing it all themselves and raising awareness of the importance of buying Irish.

“This is an award for all Irish pig producers, especially Truly Irish producers” said Jim McGrath, Chairman. Minister of State, Shane McEntee, had also said there were difficulties for many businesses but it is a time for pooling resources and Truly Irish have done just that. Other countries have already shown interest in what Truly Irish have done for the Irish pig farmer/pig industry and hope to save their own.

Truly Irish was set up by 85 pig farmers who came together to form their own brand in a bid to save the Irish pig industry and give the consumer 100% Irish premium products. Developing a quality brand, they now have listings in all the major retailers in Ireland and are now setting their sights on the UK. Pork Goujons and 82% pork Gluten Free Sausages are the latest products to be added to the ever growing product range. Truly Irish Pork Goujons are brand new to the market and are a delicious alternative to chicken goujons. Both products are now available in Dunnes Stores.

South African Wine Evening in Ballymaloe

      

A South African Afternoon in Ballymaloe

Sparkling Wine, White wine, Red Wine & Olive Oil

Followed by a traditional South African Braai (BBQ)

with Niels Verburg, of Luddite Wines, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa

featuring a tutored tasting by Niels of his award winning wines, and Olive Oil

We will also be serving a glass of South African sparkling wine on arrival – these bottles of sparkling wine will be opened by Niels, who will be demonstrating the art of ‘Sabrage’, a technique for opening a bottle of Sparkling Wine with a sabre!

After this will be a tutored tasting by Niels of white wine, red wines and finally some tastings of his Olive Oil

Immediately following the Luddite wine presentation & tasting, there will be a traditional South African Braai with Wildside’s Ted Berner (please note this will be priced separately to the wine event) and entertainment by local musicians – all making for a really nice evening for all to enjoy.

The Grain Store at Ballymaloe, Sunday 27^th May, 5.00pm, €10

        

Niels and Penny Verburg established Luddite Wines in 1999, a small family-run wine farm. Some people describe Luddite Shiraz as Niels Verburg contained in a glass; Niels is six foot four and when he smiles appears to be beaming an embrace in your direction! ‘Niels Verburg’s wine captures real elegance and intricacy’ Decanter Wine Magazine, Jan 2012

Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork, Ireland Tel: 021 4652531 res@ballymaloe.ie www.ballymaloe.ie

Three reds for the long weekend.

Three reds for the Bank Holiday

(or for Father’s Day!)

In Spain, they take their reservas seriously. In other words, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva mean something.

Crianza: at least 6 months in oak

Reserva: at least 12 months in oak

Gran Reserva: 24 months in oak.

I tasted the differences recently , and you may do the same via this “set” from Monasterio de las Vinas. I enjoyed each of the three as did Robert Parker who marked them at 89, 90 and 91 respectively.

All three are made from a blend of traditional Spanish grapes: Garnacha, Tempranillo and the local Cariñena. The vines have an average age of 40 years. Yields are kept low as the wine-making process is geared towards quality at every stage. I reckon they’ve succeeded in their aims.

The three are imported by WineAlliance and available at stockists nationwide.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2008 Crianza, 13% ABV, €11.99.

Mix of dark fruits on the nose and the colour is a darkish red. Smooth enough and dry with fruity flavours (plum-y). Well balanced, excellent and also good value.  Note: 8 months in oak.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2006 Reserva, 13% ABV, €13.99.

Colour again is a darkish red. The aroma is similar to the Crianza but slightly more intense. On the palate it is smooth and dry and a little spicy and the tannins are not as much in evidence as in the Crianza. All in all a very pleasant wine, a step up on its younger brother, yet just two Euro more. Note: 14 months in oak.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2005 Gran Reserva, 13% ABV, €17.99.

Colour is much the same as previously and it has an intense, oaky nose, also hints of plum and black cherry. In the mouth, it is very smooth (velvety), dry and spicy. So well balanced with an excellent lingering finish. The best of the three as you’d expect. Note: 24 months in oak.

So there you are, one for each day of the Bank Holiday weekend, or maybe open all three together and really taste the differences. 

Three New Classy Craft Beers

High Class Beer Hat-trick

Put June 5^th in your beer diary. On that Tuesday, new Cork craft brewery Elbow Lane will launch its Angel Stout. On the 20^th, it is the turn of Elbow Lager and later in the month you’ll see Wisdom Ale make its debut. Elbow, Angel and Wisdom, are the names of three Cork lanes and now the names of a classy hat trick of beers.

Elbow Lane, who are associated with the Market Lane and Castle Café restaurants, used their experience in that line when formulating the beers. “With this in mind, we set about creating three beers that we could serve with pride alongside our food...” They have succeeded spectacularly.

All three beers are made according to the German Purity Laws and only natural ingredients are used, nothing artificial, no enzymes, flavourings, preservatives or colours.

Wisdom Ale. 4.7%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

My first sample was the Wisdom Ale and I was very happy with it from its amber colour and the initial caramel aromas. Flavour is a mild toasty malt with a dry finish. “This ale is excellent with many foods and uniquely satisfying as a stand-alone pint.” I can wholeheartedly agree with that statement.

Elbow Lager. 4.5%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

Colour is a lighter amber and it is mild and refreshing and “owes its flavour to barley malt and a generous hop bitterness”. This one is a gem and a delightful treat for beer lovers. I had been waiting for a really class local lager and here it is!

Angel Stout. 5.1%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

This has the traditional black colour and a malty aroma. Excellent flavour, smooth with nice spicy kicks before finishing dry. Recommended for steaks, stews and curries. Eating in Market Lane and the Castle will never be the same again!

Elbow’s Conrad Howard tells me that they intend to have the products available in other restaurants and off licences shortly after launch. The best way to keep in touch with developments is via their website at www.elbowlane.ie where you can sign up to follow them on Twitter and Facebook. Stay in touch with these good things!

Amuse Bouche: ...don’t f*@k with their puddings

It is a funny thing about English diners. They’ll let you dazzle them with piddly duxelles of this and fussy little noisettes of that, but don’t fuck with their puddings....All the desserts were for gooey dishes with good English names. I had sticky toffee pudding and it was splendid. 

From Notes from a Small Island by Bill Bryson

Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

The Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

Top left: Carl Ehrhard, Emily Moore (Karwig), Maurice O'Mahony (Wine Alliance)

Bottom left: John McDonnell, Wine Australia Ireland

Ballymaloe: The Riesling Revolution

With three of the wine world’s top Riesling producers onstage at the Ballymaloe Grain Store  last night, some came expecting fireworks. But a much more civilised tone prevailed, set by one of Carl Ehrhard’s opening remarks when he described Riesling as “the most fantastic white variety”.

They were all on common ground there and the appreciative capacity audience (about 140) learned much about the capability of the Riesling grape over a very interesting two hours.

Carl was representing Germany, Severine Schlumberger the Alsace and Tim Adams Australia. As well as each showing two of their own wines, they also showed two from their neighbours. They each represented their area well but represented Riesling even better as they helped us work our way through the four flights.

Moderator John Wilson (2nd right) with l to r  Carl, Severine and Tim

The young Riesling, perhaps still my favourites, featured in the first three and Tim was first up with his 2011 Clare Valley, one of his own with a beautiful balance and a clean refreshing lingering finish. Severine showed one from her area: the 2009 Trimbach Riesling, ready now but which may be even better in a few months.

Carl showed one from his “favourite vineyard, not his own but the neighbouring Kunstler: the 2010 Hochheimer Stielweg Q.b.A, Trocken Old Vines. The vines for this are about 60 years old and, despite 2010 being a “complicated” year, this had lots of flavour and was my favourite.

The next three featured were not my favourites, though I’m open to change! I really don’t get on with that strong petrol aroma that develops the aged Riesling. Tim had his own 2007 Clare Valley, an area renowned for its “long term keeping” while Severine said now was “the perfect time to have it” as she referred to her own 2005 Domaines Schlumberger Grand Cru Kitterle.

Again Carl had chosen from the Kunstler: the 2007 Kunstler Estate Hochheim/Rheingau 2002 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Erstes Gewachs. “Five years old and still so fresh.” This one I liked and it could well convert me to the aged Riesling.

The Riesling 12

I haven’t referred to prices yet but the next flight, the Off Dry, illustrated the range on the night with the easy drinking 2011 Peter Lehmann Art Series Class Riesling (Barossa) costing just €8.99 and coming bright and fresh in a very attractive green tinged bottle.

At the other end, Severine showed the 2004 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee Sainte Catherine “L’INEDIT” Domaine Weinbach. Silky, intense elegant and rich, this beauty will set you back €65.00.

Carl, whose humour was highlight of the evening, had one of his own this time, the 2010 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rosneck Riesling Trocken Unstuck, a fine food wine with a “very big minerality”. Cost is €29.50.

All three were good and commendable, for varying reasons. Buy the Lehmann for the party, the Ehrhard for yourself and the other half, and keep the Grand Cru for yourself, methinks (looking over my shoulder!).

Calm in the Grain Store before the revolution.

None of the three sweet wines came cheap but good ones rarely do. Much of the work in producing them is manual and the processes are risky. Tim had the 2020 Mt Horricks Cordon Cut from the Clare Valley. The Cut refers to the unique risky process that involves cutting the canes when the grapes are ripe.

Severine explained that for her 2009 Domaines Schlumberger, Riesling Vendanges Tardives the grapes are late harvested by hand in October, having been carefully tended from their pruning in the previous winter. “The richness of these mellow wines is perfectly natural.”

Carl said that the year 2007 was “absolutely perfect for Botrytis” and that accounted for the outstanding desert wine: 2007 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Beerenauslese.

Carl was quite willing to go and explain more but Riesling loving moderator John Wilson reined him gently and left the last word to another man with a great humour and also a great love of wine, John McDonnell (Wine Australia).

John thanked Colm McCan of Ballymaloe and indeed the whole Ballymaloe crew for their help in staging the event and also had praise for Karwig Wines (represented by Emilie Moore) and for Tindal Wines for their help in supplying the great range of samples.

All in all, a memorable evening and one where I for one, learned a great deal about this fabulous grape. Well-done to all concerned, especially to Colm and Ballymaloe whose future wine event list may be seen here. Don’t miss out!

Sami at Star Anise

Sami at Star Anise

Sami Ghosn wasn't taking much credit for the splendid set of wines he shared with a packed Star Anise at last night’s Wine Dinner, part of the 10^th anniversary celebrations of the excellent Bridge Street restaurant.

Sami, Chairman and General Manager of the Massaya Company, based in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, said it was easy to make wine there. The local conditions, no rain from April to September, but still moisture in the soil from the snow melt in the nearby mountains, the same mountains that hold back the rain clouds, plus the blue sky luminosity (a major factor in promoting growth) and the soil itself, lead to grapes of outstanding quality. He maintained that ninety per cent of the work is done for the winemaker.

Still Massaya does have some work to do and does it well in this surprisingly small country, some 200 kilometres by 50. They can wait for the proper time to pick, citing this as a major difference between his wine and “supermarket wines” which are produced to a schedule. But, in Massaya, everything, including the picking for example, is done “at the optimum time”, the schedule being laid down by nature.

Our first bottle was the Massaya Blanc, a blend of Clairette, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and the indigenous Obeidi. This was fresh, elegant and well balanced, almost velvety on the palate.

Then it was reds all the way. First came the Classic Red, a blend of Cinsault (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. “This is very approachable”, he said. “The door opener to the Bekaa. Cinsault is the Southern Rhone grape and we have French partners working with us. It has good fruit and spice and is very versatile.” Just to underline that latter point, we enjoyed it with the monkfish course.

The Silver Red was another Rhone type, a bit more serious, maybe not as versatile. “But more classic. Goes well with lamb, which we have to-night”.

We finished with the Gold Reserve Red, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah. This is the top one. He advised dressing up for this serious bottle. “It has spent two years maturing in new French oak casks and will keep maturing nicely. It may need decanting and is to be enjoyed with red meat, chocolate and maybe a big cigar!”

It has 14.5% abv. “You are not supposed to sense the alcohol. ..if you do..it is unbalanced.” No danger of that with this full-bodied gem. Tasting notes on all the wines are here.

The excellent wines proved a challenge to Star Anise but one they welcomed and met by providing a brilliant matching meal. Each course was top notch, almost impossible to pick one over the other but, if pressed, I’d go for the Monkfish and the exquisite Madeleines. But I really wouldn’t want to miss any of them. Well done to Virginie and her team and a big congrats to Conor and Virginie on their ten years in business. Long may they continue!

Menu

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Gazpacho with Celery Cress and Goat’s Cheese crostini

**

Scallop tartare with Shaved Fennel, Chilli and Orange

**

Monkfish, wrapped in Prosciutto, with Romesco Sauce, Courgette, and Toasted Almonds

**

Canon of Lamb with Tabbouleh, Sweet Potato Puree & Pomegranate Yoghurt

**

Madeleines with lemon Curd and Strawberry Salsa

**

Tea & Coffee