Easy Trip to the Basque Country

Just started our Basque adventure last weekend with a lovely voyage with Brittany Ferries from Ringaskiddy to Roscoff. Enjoyed a terrific meal at the Le Flora onboard restaurant with my nephew and his wife who were returning to Paris with their gorgeous Golden Retriever Marley (he wasn't invited to the meal but got the best of care).
The journey to Hendaye on the French-Spanish border proved uneventful, aside from the fact that our Sat-Nav packed up. We made quite a few stops, including ones at the excellent Aire de Rennes and Aire de Vendee, and, having left the boat at about 8.00am, arrived here at 7.30pm.
The appartment is well located, within walking distance of a fantastic beach and a lovely busy port which has a cross river ferry to Spain.
More pics from this trip here

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, "sauce diplomate"

Creamy bouillon of sole with melted camembert

Top Prize for Truly Irish

Jim McGrath, Chairman, is pictured here with John Concannon, MD of JFC Manufacturing Co Ltd and Patrick McDonnell, on his Farm in New Inn Co Galway.

press release:

Truly Irish wins top prize at JFC Awards

Truly Irish are very excited to have won the overall prize worth €15,000 in the 2012 JFC Innovation Awards this month. The competition was sponsored by JFC and supported by Teagasc, DARD NI and the Irish Farmers Journal who all saw the potential in what Truly Irish have been trying to achieve since they began trading in 2009. It is a fantastic win for the farmers brand who are doing it all themselves and raising awareness of the importance of buying Irish.

“This is an award for all Irish pig producers, especially Truly Irish producers” said Jim McGrath, Chairman. Minister of State, Shane McEntee, had also said there were difficulties for many businesses but it is a time for pooling resources and Truly Irish have done just that. Other countries have already shown interest in what Truly Irish have done for the Irish pig farmer/pig industry and hope to save their own.

Truly Irish was set up by 85 pig farmers who came together to form their own brand in a bid to save the Irish pig industry and give the consumer 100% Irish premium products. Developing a quality brand, they now have listings in all the major retailers in Ireland and are now setting their sights on the UK. Pork Goujons and 82% pork Gluten Free Sausages are the latest products to be added to the ever growing product range. Truly Irish Pork Goujons are brand new to the market and are a delicious alternative to chicken goujons. Both products are now available in Dunnes Stores.

South African Wine Evening in Ballymaloe

      

A South African Afternoon in Ballymaloe

Sparkling Wine, White wine, Red Wine & Olive Oil

Followed by a traditional South African Braai (BBQ)

with Niels Verburg, of Luddite Wines, Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa

featuring a tutored tasting by Niels of his award winning wines, and Olive Oil

We will also be serving a glass of South African sparkling wine on arrival – these bottles of sparkling wine will be opened by Niels, who will be demonstrating the art of ‘Sabrage’, a technique for opening a bottle of Sparkling Wine with a sabre!

After this will be a tutored tasting by Niels of white wine, red wines and finally some tastings of his Olive Oil

Immediately following the Luddite wine presentation & tasting, there will be a traditional South African Braai with Wildside’s Ted Berner (please note this will be priced separately to the wine event) and entertainment by local musicians – all making for a really nice evening for all to enjoy.

The Grain Store at Ballymaloe, Sunday 27^th May, 5.00pm, €10

        

Niels and Penny Verburg established Luddite Wines in 1999, a small family-run wine farm. Some people describe Luddite Shiraz as Niels Verburg contained in a glass; Niels is six foot four and when he smiles appears to be beaming an embrace in your direction! ‘Niels Verburg’s wine captures real elegance and intricacy’ Decanter Wine Magazine, Jan 2012

Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork, Ireland Tel: 021 4652531 res@ballymaloe.ie www.ballymaloe.ie

Three reds for the long weekend.

Three reds for the Bank Holiday

(or for Father’s Day!)

In Spain, they take their reservas seriously. In other words, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva mean something.

Crianza: at least 6 months in oak

Reserva: at least 12 months in oak

Gran Reserva: 24 months in oak.

I tasted the differences recently , and you may do the same via this “set” from Monasterio de las Vinas. I enjoyed each of the three as did Robert Parker who marked them at 89, 90 and 91 respectively.

All three are made from a blend of traditional Spanish grapes: Garnacha, Tempranillo and the local Cariñena. The vines have an average age of 40 years. Yields are kept low as the wine-making process is geared towards quality at every stage. I reckon they’ve succeeded in their aims.

The three are imported by WineAlliance and available at stockists nationwide.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2008 Crianza, 13% ABV, €11.99.

Mix of dark fruits on the nose and the colour is a darkish red. Smooth enough and dry with fruity flavours (plum-y). Well balanced, excellent and also good value.  Note: 8 months in oak.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2006 Reserva, 13% ABV, €13.99.

Colour again is a darkish red. The aroma is similar to the Crianza but slightly more intense. On the palate it is smooth and dry and a little spicy and the tannins are not as much in evidence as in the Crianza. All in all a very pleasant wine, a step up on its younger brother, yet just two Euro more. Note: 14 months in oak.

Monasterio de las Vinas, Cariñena 2005 Gran Reserva, 13% ABV, €17.99.

Colour is much the same as previously and it has an intense, oaky nose, also hints of plum and black cherry. In the mouth, it is very smooth (velvety), dry and spicy. So well balanced with an excellent lingering finish. The best of the three as you’d expect. Note: 24 months in oak.

So there you are, one for each day of the Bank Holiday weekend, or maybe open all three together and really taste the differences. 

Three New Classy Craft Beers

High Class Beer Hat-trick

Put June 5^th in your beer diary. On that Tuesday, new Cork craft brewery Elbow Lane will launch its Angel Stout. On the 20^th, it is the turn of Elbow Lager and later in the month you’ll see Wisdom Ale make its debut. Elbow, Angel and Wisdom, are the names of three Cork lanes and now the names of a classy hat trick of beers.

Elbow Lane, who are associated with the Market Lane and Castle Café restaurants, used their experience in that line when formulating the beers. “With this in mind, we set about creating three beers that we could serve with pride alongside our food...” They have succeeded spectacularly.

All three beers are made according to the German Purity Laws and only natural ingredients are used, nothing artificial, no enzymes, flavourings, preservatives or colours.

Wisdom Ale. 4.7%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

My first sample was the Wisdom Ale and I was very happy with it from its amber colour and the initial caramel aromas. Flavour is a mild toasty malt with a dry finish. “This ale is excellent with many foods and uniquely satisfying as a stand-alone pint.” I can wholeheartedly agree with that statement.

Elbow Lager. 4.5%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

Colour is a lighter amber and it is mild and refreshing and “owes its flavour to barley malt and a generous hop bitterness”. This one is a gem and a delightful treat for beer lovers. I had been waiting for a really class local lager and here it is!

Angel Stout. 5.1%ABV. Ingredients: Water, Barley Malt, Hops.

This has the traditional black colour and a malty aroma. Excellent flavour, smooth with nice spicy kicks before finishing dry. Recommended for steaks, stews and curries. Eating in Market Lane and the Castle will never be the same again!

Elbow’s Conrad Howard tells me that they intend to have the products available in other restaurants and off licences shortly after launch. The best way to keep in touch with developments is via their website at www.elbowlane.ie where you can sign up to follow them on Twitter and Facebook. Stay in touch with these good things!

Amuse Bouche: ...don’t f*@k with their puddings

It is a funny thing about English diners. They’ll let you dazzle them with piddly duxelles of this and fussy little noisettes of that, but don’t fuck with their puddings....All the desserts were for gooey dishes with good English names. I had sticky toffee pudding and it was splendid. 

From Notes from a Small Island by Bill Bryson

Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

The Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

Top left: Carl Ehrhard, Emily Moore (Karwig), Maurice O'Mahony (Wine Alliance)

Bottom left: John McDonnell, Wine Australia Ireland

Ballymaloe: The Riesling Revolution

With three of the wine world’s top Riesling producers onstage at the Ballymaloe Grain Store  last night, some came expecting fireworks. But a much more civilised tone prevailed, set by one of Carl Ehrhard’s opening remarks when he described Riesling as “the most fantastic white variety”.

They were all on common ground there and the appreciative capacity audience (about 140) learned much about the capability of the Riesling grape over a very interesting two hours.

Carl was representing Germany, Severine Schlumberger the Alsace and Tim Adams Australia. As well as each showing two of their own wines, they also showed two from their neighbours. They each represented their area well but represented Riesling even better as they helped us work our way through the four flights.

Moderator John Wilson (2nd right) with l to r  Carl, Severine and Tim

The young Riesling, perhaps still my favourites, featured in the first three and Tim was first up with his 2011 Clare Valley, one of his own with a beautiful balance and a clean refreshing lingering finish. Severine showed one from her area: the 2009 Trimbach Riesling, ready now but which may be even better in a few months.

Carl showed one from his “favourite vineyard, not his own but the neighbouring Kunstler: the 2010 Hochheimer Stielweg Q.b.A, Trocken Old Vines. The vines for this are about 60 years old and, despite 2010 being a “complicated” year, this had lots of flavour and was my favourite.

The next three featured were not my favourites, though I’m open to change! I really don’t get on with that strong petrol aroma that develops the aged Riesling. Tim had his own 2007 Clare Valley, an area renowned for its “long term keeping” while Severine said now was “the perfect time to have it” as she referred to her own 2005 Domaines Schlumberger Grand Cru Kitterle.

Again Carl had chosen from the Kunstler: the 2007 Kunstler Estate Hochheim/Rheingau 2002 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Erstes Gewachs. “Five years old and still so fresh.” This one I liked and it could well convert me to the aged Riesling.

The Riesling 12

I haven’t referred to prices yet but the next flight, the Off Dry, illustrated the range on the night with the easy drinking 2011 Peter Lehmann Art Series Class Riesling (Barossa) costing just €8.99 and coming bright and fresh in a very attractive green tinged bottle.

At the other end, Severine showed the 2004 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee Sainte Catherine “L’INEDIT” Domaine Weinbach. Silky, intense elegant and rich, this beauty will set you back €65.00.

Carl, whose humour was highlight of the evening, had one of his own this time, the 2010 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rosneck Riesling Trocken Unstuck, a fine food wine with a “very big minerality”. Cost is €29.50.

All three were good and commendable, for varying reasons. Buy the Lehmann for the party, the Ehrhard for yourself and the other half, and keep the Grand Cru for yourself, methinks (looking over my shoulder!).

Calm in the Grain Store before the revolution.

None of the three sweet wines came cheap but good ones rarely do. Much of the work in producing them is manual and the processes are risky. Tim had the 2020 Mt Horricks Cordon Cut from the Clare Valley. The Cut refers to the unique risky process that involves cutting the canes when the grapes are ripe.

Severine explained that for her 2009 Domaines Schlumberger, Riesling Vendanges Tardives the grapes are late harvested by hand in October, having been carefully tended from their pruning in the previous winter. “The richness of these mellow wines is perfectly natural.”

Carl said that the year 2007 was “absolutely perfect for Botrytis” and that accounted for the outstanding desert wine: 2007 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Beerenauslese.

Carl was quite willing to go and explain more but Riesling loving moderator John Wilson reined him gently and left the last word to another man with a great humour and also a great love of wine, John McDonnell (Wine Australia).

John thanked Colm McCan of Ballymaloe and indeed the whole Ballymaloe crew for their help in staging the event and also had praise for Karwig Wines (represented by Emilie Moore) and for Tindal Wines for their help in supplying the great range of samples.

All in all, a memorable evening and one where I for one, learned a great deal about this fabulous grape. Well-done to all concerned, especially to Colm and Ballymaloe whose future wine event list may be seen here. Don’t miss out!

Sami at Star Anise

Sami at Star Anise

Sami Ghosn wasn't taking much credit for the splendid set of wines he shared with a packed Star Anise at last night’s Wine Dinner, part of the 10^th anniversary celebrations of the excellent Bridge Street restaurant.

Sami, Chairman and General Manager of the Massaya Company, based in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, said it was easy to make wine there. The local conditions, no rain from April to September, but still moisture in the soil from the snow melt in the nearby mountains, the same mountains that hold back the rain clouds, plus the blue sky luminosity (a major factor in promoting growth) and the soil itself, lead to grapes of outstanding quality. He maintained that ninety per cent of the work is done for the winemaker.

Still Massaya does have some work to do and does it well in this surprisingly small country, some 200 kilometres by 50. They can wait for the proper time to pick, citing this as a major difference between his wine and “supermarket wines” which are produced to a schedule. But, in Massaya, everything, including the picking for example, is done “at the optimum time”, the schedule being laid down by nature.

Our first bottle was the Massaya Blanc, a blend of Clairette, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and the indigenous Obeidi. This was fresh, elegant and well balanced, almost velvety on the palate.

Then it was reds all the way. First came the Classic Red, a blend of Cinsault (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. “This is very approachable”, he said. “The door opener to the Bekaa. Cinsault is the Southern Rhone grape and we have French partners working with us. It has good fruit and spice and is very versatile.” Just to underline that latter point, we enjoyed it with the monkfish course.

The Silver Red was another Rhone type, a bit more serious, maybe not as versatile. “But more classic. Goes well with lamb, which we have to-night”.

We finished with the Gold Reserve Red, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah. This is the top one. He advised dressing up for this serious bottle. “It has spent two years maturing in new French oak casks and will keep maturing nicely. It may need decanting and is to be enjoyed with red meat, chocolate and maybe a big cigar!”

It has 14.5% abv. “You are not supposed to sense the alcohol. ..if you do..it is unbalanced.” No danger of that with this full-bodied gem. Tasting notes on all the wines are here.

The excellent wines proved a challenge to Star Anise but one they welcomed and met by providing a brilliant matching meal. Each course was top notch, almost impossible to pick one over the other but, if pressed, I’d go for the Monkfish and the exquisite Madeleines. But I really wouldn’t want to miss any of them. Well done to Virginie and her team and a big congrats to Conor and Virginie on their ten years in business. Long may they continue!

Menu

**
Gazpacho with Celery Cress and Goat’s Cheese crostini

**

Scallop tartare with Shaved Fennel, Chilli and Orange

**

Monkfish, wrapped in Prosciutto, with Romesco Sauce, Courgette, and Toasted Almonds

**

Canon of Lamb with Tabbouleh, Sweet Potato Puree & Pomegranate Yoghurt

**

Madeleines with lemon Curd and Strawberry Salsa

**

Tea & Coffee

Munster Foodie Tweet-up June 24th

Hot off the press. Cronin's Bar invite you to the next Munster Food Tweet-up!

Come and join us for the fourth gathering of Munster's food lovin' peeps who like to tweet 'n to eat!

This event is open to all food lovers, restauranteurs, chefs, producers, bloggers or anyone who is interested in great food, conversation and of course who tweet and are based in the Munster area.

The agenda for the afternoon is as follows...

Sunday, 24th June 2012

5pm :
Step aboard the Cork Harbour tours ferry boat at Lapps Quay in Cork city, where we will be departing for Crosshaven. On route, take in the spectacular sights that Cork harbour has to offer, including Blackrock Castle, Cobh, Spike Island, Fort Camden and Roches Point lighthouse. We'll have some musicians on board and some craft Irish beer to quench your thirst!
Note : Bring a warm jacket for the boat trip to Crosshaven, it can get chilly out there, but it's worth it :)

6.30pm :
Arrive at the Hugh Coveney Pier, Crosshaven, where it is a short walk to Cronin's Pub. Here the BBQ will be fired up and Denis and his team will have fresh locally caught fish and a few other Cronin's foodie goodies on the go. If the Irish weather is not on our side, we'll pop indoors for some heartwarming grub and a knees up!.

10.30pm :
A return bus will pick you up outside Cronin's Pub and drop you back to Cork city centre, safe and sound. Couldn't be simpler or sweeter.... but that's the life of a tweeter!

We are looking forward to you joining us in what is guaranteed a lively afternoon of banter, music and a lovely bite to eat in one of Munster's most scenic villages by the seaside. Don't delay. Order your tickets here 

Master Chef Ireland 2012

THE SEARCH IS ON TO FIND IRELAND’S NEXT MASTERCHEF!

Are you passionate about food and love to cook? Do you constantly impress your friends and family with your culinary skills? Are you an amateur cook with amazing talent? If so, you might have what it takes to impress our judges, Nick Munier and Dylan McGrath and become Ireland’s MasterChef Champion!

Don’t miss out, APPLY NOW!

Application deadline is 28^th May 2012.

For more information and to download your application form go to:

www.rte.ie/masterchef

Food and Drink Spotting. Tony Singh, Ballymaloe...

Food and Drink Spotting

Like a Farm Walk in Ballymloe? See below.

Tony Singh to Represent Scotland in 2012 Celtic Cook Off in West Cork

Edinburgh born Tony Singh has established himself as a leading force on the Scottish restaurant scene as co-founder of Oloroso, the highly acclaimed bar and restaurant in the heart of Scotland’s dynamic capital city.

For over 20 years, Tony has pushed the boundaries of culinary innovation, combining his Sikh upbringing with his love of Scottish produce.  He first dabbled with cooking on a Youth Training Scheme at Scottish & Newcastle, which led him to Telford College in Edinburgh and the completion of an OND in Hotel Management.  His distinctive style soon developed and made him hot property in restaurant circles, leading to positions with The Royal Yacht Britannia, The Balmoral Hotel, Greywalls, Royal Scotsman Train, and Gravetye Manor.

The Cook Off takes place next September. Event details here.

 Take a Farm Walk at the Ballymaloe Cookery School this summer. Maybe take a course. All the info in their SummerNewsletter.

@BiaSasta is planning a pig feast @biasasta is planning a Pig Feast (on May 25^th, not June).  All the details and more here.

Drinks

Save the 30th of May in your diary! There is an evening of New Zealand wine-tasting in Annie's Gastropub. “We will have a vineyard representative from Forrest Estate Wines, along with Conor O' Brien from James Nicholson Wines with us on the night to discuss the wines on offer. Keep an eye out on our Facebook page & Twitter for further details! Or call us on 021-4398384”.

Kate Lawlor of Fenns Quay ‏ @FennsQuay tells me that on the 31st of May, in association with @ggunnigan of Liberty Wines, they will be hosting a food & wine night to launch their new wine list.

Before all that there is an Australian Wine Tasting in L’Atitude 51 on May 23^rd. Keep an eye on the Facebook page,  though I don’t see up there at the moment.

Shorts

Cooking with Avonmore: barbecue treats, competitions, recipes and more  http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=ce473bdf3da9ce653bd8fd7c6&id=1a1e7a1b62&e=7696a2956d

Cheese map of UK & Ireland: http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/thereporters/markeaston/2009/10/map_of_the_week_cheese.html. Thanks to @TasteaMemory

Pork Slap Pale Ale:   http://www.foodspotting.com/reviews/1724864

Chocolate-cupcakes-with-flaming strawberries:

http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/2QWcqg/:1kv!!4.jG:8ItUlZZi/www.sprinklebakes.com/2011/01/chocolate-cupcakes-with-flaming.html/

Last night's Food Oscar winners

Garreth Byrne & Brid Hannon

Ross & Jessica Lewis

Last night's Food Oscars

Chapter One has scooped the Best Restaurant Award and Garrett Byrne, Head Chef at Campagne Restaurant in Kilkenny, has been crowned Best Chef in Ireland at the Santa Rita Irish Restaurant Awards 2012 which took place last night in the Burlington Hotel (Monday 14^th May 2012).

Almost 700 industry peers attended Ireland’s leading Restaurant Awards where regional and

All-Ireland winners were announced in the following categories:

• Chapter One (Dublin) Best Restaurant 2012 Sponsored by Santa Rita
• Garrett Byrne for Campagne (Kilkenny) Best Chef 2012 Sponsored by Tipperary Water
• The Long Room @ Doonbeg (Clare) Best Hotel Restaurant 2012 Sponsored By Pallas Foods
• The Chop House (Dublin) Best Gastro Pub 2012 Sponsored by Faustino
• O’Connells (Dublin) Best Casual Dining 2012 Sponsored By Joseph Drouhin
• Harveys Point Hotel (Donegal) Best Customer Service 2012 Sponsored by Miele
• West @ The Twelve Hotel (Galway) Best Wine Experience 2012 Sponsored by Thomas Barton
• Ely Gastro Pub (Dublin) Best Kids Size Me Menu 2012 Sponsored by Heinz
• Comeragh Mountain Lamb (Waterford) Local Food Hero 2012 Sponsored by Life Magazine

 Read the full report and honours list

Dillon’s Abú

Dillon’s Abú

Timoleague, long famous for its impressive if ruined abbey, is fast becoming well known now for Dillon’s, the brilliant restaurant with the welcome touch provided so genuinely by Julie and Chef John Finn, the engaging owners.

Parked by the abbey last Saturday and worked up an appetite by walking over towards Courtmacsherry. The appetite reached 100% before we got to Courtmac so we turned back and headed for Dillon’s, just in time to see a parade of veteran cars go by. By the time we left, we were full, the appetite needle comfortably in the resting position.

Began the meal with a chat and then we were presented with some tasty brown bread and a magnificent Wild Garlic hummus, made in-house of course. Just cleaned out the bowl. It was so gorgeous.

While waiting for the soup, Julie brought out a tasting sample of the West Cork Seafood Chowder with Coconut and Coriander. She was obviously proud of this (not to mention hubby John’s part in it) and rightly so. Just brilliant. If you get the chance, go for it.

Was then half-wondering had I made a mistake by ordering the Creamy Asparagus and Leek Soup with Wild Garlic Pesto and that Brown Bread (€4.95). Not a bit of it. Looked good and the taste was top notch.

And now for the main courses. CL chose the West Cork duck, Piccalilli Red Onion Marmalade and Hummus Wrap with local salad and roast potatoes (12.95). Great ingredients and a terrific combination. Really fantastic roast potatoes.

And I had the same potatoes on my dish: Roast Fillet of Hake with Shaved Fennel and Beetroot slaw, Salsa Verde and Wild Garlic Pesto (15.95). Again this produced a pretty photograph. The camera wasn't lying as Dillon’s once again outshone themselves. Everything was perfect and that unusual slaw went down a crunchy treat. Happy out!

But not finished yet! Dessert. Would we? Of course. But we did share the delicious pear, almond and blackberry tart (5.50). A couple of coffees and more chat and soon two happy customers walked out into the West Cork sun with a jar of that Wild Garlic Hummus and a loaf of the brown bread, both to be demolished at supper time! Couldn’t wait.

Great stuff in Timoleague, an essential stop on the Bandon Food Trail