Amuse Bouche

Next he went for the buttered crab. With a long thin spoon, Shah scooped the baked flesh from the salted and peppered exoskeleton of the crab; when all the easy meat had been carved from the chest and eaten, he tore the limbs apart, and chewed on them, one a time, biting into the shell and chewing 'til it cracked open, before sucking at the warm white flesh. The waiters were prepared to carve out the flesh and bring it on a small plate, but Dharmen Shah did not want it that way. He wanted to feel he was eating a thing that had been breathing just an hour ago: wanted to feel, once again, the extraordinary good fortune of being one of those still alive. – Last Man in Tower by Aravind Adiga.

Brilliance of Burgundy at Ballymaloe

Brilliance of Burgundy at Ballymaloe

'Burgundy 2009 - A journey through the Villages of Burgundy' with a tutored tasting by Marinette Garnier, winemaker, Maison Jaffelin, at The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, Tuesday 13th March, 7.30pm €10

Marinette Garnier, born in the heart of Burgundy and, already at 25 years old, has a lot of experience working alongside some of the most famous names in Burgundy, including Domaine Comtes Lafon, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, and on completion of her diploma, at Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils. Marinette is now winemaker at Maison Jaffelin.

Wines for the tasting:

2009 Chablis
2009 Chablis 1er Cru
2009 Bourgogne Blanc
2009 Meursault

2009 Fleurie
2009 Bourgogne Rouge
2009 Pommard
2009 Nuit-St-George
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin

Winner of BBC MasterChef 2011 is Celtic Cook Off Guest

Winner of BBC MasterChef 2011 is Celtic Cook Off Guest of Honour
Tim Anderson will participate over two days in 2012 Celtic Cook Off in West Cork

The Celtic Cook Off in West Cork continues to build on the success of the inaugural event in September 2011 by attracting top chefs to take part in what is becoming one of the culinary events of the year.

The 2011 Celtic Cook Off was held as part of the A Taste of West Cork Festival that proved very popular with the paying public, the local food producers, Fáilte Ireland, the media and all the Chefs involved. The basis of the Celtic Cook Off was to create a fun and informative Cooking Show that showcases the best of West Cork produce cooked simply with each Chef’s own interpretation and ideas.

Tim Anderson, BBC MasterChef Winner 2011, is attending the September 2012 event as Guest of Honour. During two days he will meet local artisan food producers and have a chance to both sample and cook with their produce. He will also meet the competing chefs from the Celtic regions, including Sean Hill for Wales and Jack Stein for Cornwall, before acting as one of the six judges for the Celtic Cook Off itself along with Roy Brett from Scotland and Martin Shanahan from Ireland.

Tim Anderson was born in Wisconsin, USA and raised on a balanced diet of cheeseburgers, pizza, Danish pastries, and root beer. At age 18 he relocated to Los Angeles, where he quickly became a connoisseur of regional Japanese noodles, American craft beer, and tacos sold out of trucks.


Upon graduating from college, Tim moved to Japan to indulge in the country's many hot springs and diverse local foods – in particular the unexpectedly pork-intensive and indelicate dishes of Kyushu, Japan's southernmost island. It was there that Tim fell in love with a British woman, and so he once again displaced himself, this time to London, where he developed a love for British ale, cheese, curry, game, and seafood. Along the way, he has travelled to France, Mexico, Italy, Hong Kong, Thailand, Taiwan, Burma, and Denmark, accruing new and diverse culinary influences at every opportunity.

In 2011 he wove those influences into a colourful tapestry of flavour to win the hit BBC series MasterChef at age 26, making him the youngest champion ever. He currently works as a mercenary chef, food writer, and sommelier of beer.


Date of Celtic Cook Off: Wednesday 12 September 2012, 7.30 PM
Location/Venue: The West Cork Hotel, Skibbereen, Co. Cork, Ireland.

A Red that’s light and bright

A Red that’s light and bright

Chartron et Trebuchet, 2010 Macon AOC, 12.5% abv, €12.99 Curious Wines

Want to try something in red other than Cabernet Sauvignon, Rioja or Merlot, then why not have a look at this bright featherweight from the Macon?

It is an easy drinking fruity red with a little tannic kick, light and with a decent balance. If you don’t fancy the more full-on reds, this one, a blend of Pinot Noir and the Gamay grape (used extensively in Beaujolais), is a sound bet.

The general advice for this Macon, which is probably more of a spring and summer wine, is to drink it as young as possible. This is the kind of light red that easily fits with a salad and would be gorgeous with one that includes Ummera smoked chicken.

As Others See Us. Swedish Journalist Visits Cork.

First "met" Swedish writer Pelle Blohm on twitter, thanks to a Corkman, Mark O'Sullivan @markstkhlm, an ex Tramore Athletic player, who lives in Sweden and also Philip O'Connor, Swedish based Irish sports journalist @philipoconnor . Pelle is a regular visitor to Ireland, has been Grand Marshall at a Swedish Patrick's Day parade and owns an Irish wolfhound.


Pelle Blohm (@PBlohm on twitter): Freelance writer about football and culture and stuff in between. TV-expert-commentator in football. 


Pelle played professional football at a high level and had stints in places such as Derby and China as well as more local contracts at home and in Norway. In this You Tube clip you see him scoring against Torino in the 1992 UEFA Cup.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfXF5JewthY


Met Pelle at his B&B, @HandlebarsBandB  on the Lower Road, just after his arrival by train from Dublin and we headed off to Mahon Point Farmer's Market and Kinsale for a few hours. The ink was hardly dry on my short blog account of the day when I got a tweet from Mark saying an article by Pelle had appeared in his (Pelle's) local paper, the NA in Örebro, and told me "it was a good plug for Mahon Point Farmers Market and Kinsale".


See what you think. Must warn you though this is a Google translation, prone to error, though Mark says it is a pretty fair translation. I have added my own interpretations where there is doubt (in brackets).

CHIDED (BY) A CAB DRIVER DUBLIN

Talking football tends to be one of the best ways to break the ice

with the taxi drivers wherever you are in the world. It name drops a

name of a player or team and I usually talk to be running and the

atmosphere on top.

This early morning Dublin was not quite as usual. I jumped into a taxi

to take me to Heuston Station and by train to Cork. After a little

morning buzz about the weather chaffisen (the driver) asked:

- What do you do then?

sleepy as I was I took the easiest route.

- I work with football.

It (he) exploded in the front seat.

- Stupid, fucking, wankers those footballers. All they do is drinking,

gambling and whoring. Then went he with a long rant about working-class

boys who flooded with sick money that they do not have a clue how to

care for. 

Idiot British club owners and a crazy industry. Of course, I

was silent, sit well here and look out over empty dark streets, I

thought. After all, he had a point with his outburst. Although his

words breathed old Irish morality Catholicism. Thinking of adding a

diplomatic comment somewhere but just then we were there.

Down in Cork I met Billy Lyons. A man who through friends and the amazing network

Twitter gave away five hours of their (his) time to show me around Cork's

surroundings. A man who talked the strangest accent I've heard in

English. He almost sang out the words that fit together without

interruption. Each sentence ended and began, remained an enigma. Then I

was still warned of the singing Cork dialect. I took a chance with yes

and sometimes no other times. It worked pretty well. 

Pelle in Kinsale

Billy drove past the soccer fields on top of the round green hills (in Kinsale) and talked to (about) local football as he is passionate about, I saw the old Charles Fort from the 1800s, the beautiful summer town of Kinsale and the famous pub Bulman. 

Billy is a food writer took me to Mahon Point Farmers Market outside of town (Cork) where I walked around and greeted the vendors of local Cork Products. Tasted pâté, cheeses, bread and mushroom soup. Got a rant (explanation) about sushi with an Irish twist and juices and jams from the area. Fantastic day together with a very hospitable and proud Cork Nationals. 

Later on vincaféet (wine cafe?) L’Atitude 51 at the edge of the River Lee's southern channel, I read in the NA (his local paper) if someone wrote a nidlåt (anthem?) of Örebro. We are poor in Örebro on writing good songs about our city. Ireland is a master in this branch. 

Here are so many songs at any time of the country, towns and villages. Pride and love, joy and pain that is mediated through the music. We should call Örebro musicians to

write more songs such as Nikola Sarcevic and his song Hometown. 

They should be put online and on CD's, paid for by the municipality and

used to promote Örebro. Instead of Phil Lynott's tribute to Dublin.

Mats Ronander of Örebro. Or a variant of Luke Kelly's song about

Belfast. "The town I loved so well" in Örebro robes of Karin Wistrand.

End of Pelle's article.

You can see the original article, which was written in a McCurtain Street bar where, according to Pelle, the Wi-Fi was good and the coffee wasn't, here 

LAST SUPPER AT AUGUSTINE'S

Breads

Mushroom and Onion Soup

Carpaccio of Monkfish, blood orange fennel salad

Squid Ink Rissoto 

Chicken consomme over boudin blanc

Scallop, Terrine Foie Gras & Oxtail, apple puree

========

Then a palate cleansing shot of Lemon and Lime.

Pigeon Wellington, Warm Coleslaw, Celeriac Fondant

After the cheese, we enjoyed Chocolate Grenache and Raspberry Sorbet
+++++++++

Augustine's bowed out in style last Saturday night. The always popular venue was packed out for the last supper. Great company and, of course, great food. Photos didn't turn too badly so I think, on this occasion, I'll let Brendan Cashman's superb food do the talking and wish himself and Carol, and his staff, all the best for the future. I think we all left hoping that this was au revoir rather than farewell.

HAYFIELD IN HARMONY WITH SANTA SOFIA

HAYFIELD WINE SOCIETY WITH SANTA SOFIA

Well done to Sandra Biret-Crowley, sommelier at the Hayfield Manor Hotel, and her team who came up with yet another brilliant Wine Society Evening. This time, the wines from the Santa Sofia winery  (near Verona) were featured and you’d be hard pushed to find a better set from anywhere.

You’d be hard pushed too to find a better man to put the message across than Luciano Begnoni who beguiled one and all with his knowledge of the wines and “the way he told them”; not quite the queen’s English but very very engaging. His theme was a wine for every occasion.

First up, after a welcome glass of Prosecco (Bortolotti Spumanti), was the Pinot Grigio Garda DOC Le Caldera 2010, fruity and elegant, “a wine for every day”, according to Luciano. The reds though were to prove the stars of the show but, first let me tell you that the Whisky Cured Salmon, our first course, set a very high standard that was maintained for the enjoyable evening.

Now on to the House Smoked Magret Duck Breast, with duck liver and Foie Gras Parfait, orange dressing and Toasted Brioche. The team had decided that the Ripasso Valpolicella DOC Superiore 2008 would accompany this and it was a terrific choice.

This was a wine for every second day, according to Luciano, soft and easy to drink. “Aged in Slovenian barrels for 9 months, it is not so much spicy but very fruity.” Now we were on to the “once a week” wine: the Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2006.

“Cherry and vanilla,” according to Luciano. “And black pepper. It is complex and will have a long life. Now is only the beginning.” Just superb. And so too was the dish that accompanied it: Fillet of Irish beef, whole glazed cepes and confit of Shallot, scallion pencils, black truffle scented Potato puree, red wine jus.

Next up was the sweet one: Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007. Luciano: “This sweet wine is difficult to produce but it is well balanced, sweet beginnings, clear to the end. After 12 months in French oak, it has a nice complexity and hints of cherry, wonderful with chocolate.”

We found instant confirmation as the Hayfield served up Chocolate Marquise with Griottine Cherries, Honeycomb, Crystallised Pistachios and Cherry Cappuccino. “A great combination” as Luciano had forecast.

Still time for one more wine: Montegradella Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2008. Made from the same grapes as the Amarone but with an ABV of 13.5 as against the massive 15% of the Amarone. It was a perfect fit with the plate of Irish and continental cheeses.

Yours truly and Luciano (right)

Luciano was accompanied to the dinner by Donie O’Brien, Commercial Manager of the Erne Drinks Company that distributes the wines here. Donie, who spent 15 years with Heineken, was also in top form and indeed the two were quite a double act! A very likeable duo, let me add.

So thanks to Santa Sofia and their reps and to Paul and Ciara of the Hayfield along with Sandra, Orchids Sous Chef Stuart Bowes and Executive Chef Graeme Campbell for a superb evening in a lovely setting.

* At retail level, the Santa Sofia wines and other Erne wines, are available in The Dublin Wine Rooms at the IFSC (dublinwinerooms.com) and at their shop in Monkstown (enowine.ie). Both of these premises use Enomatic wine machines with 48 different wines on tasting everyday.

LUNCH STOP AT THE BULMAN

THE BULMAN

Enjoyed lunch at the Bulman yesterday. I was accompanied by Swedish journalist Pelle Blohm who was as surprised as me at the relatively high temperatures. But it still wasn't warm enough to sit outside.

We were on our way back to Charlesfort after strolling around Kinsale and seeing the sights. Pelle enjoyed the town and especially the old fort, the eerie ruins of the barracks and, of course, the views.

Time for lunch now, after all that walking. First though a drink was required and I suggested a bottle of Stonewell cider. Pelle usually finds cider too sweet but he certainly enjoyed this one, as indeed did I.

 I spotted an Ummera product on the menu and couldn’t resist having the Smoked Chicken with Pine Nuts and Cashel Blue cheese on a salad (10.50). Very enjoyable, terrific taste and texture variations in the dish, and a great choice, even if I say so myself.

The morning had started with food as well. Pelle, just off the train, was plunged into the activity at Mahon Point Farmers Market to meet some hard-working Irish people and taste some great food. Thanks to the traders who welcomed him with open arms, people such as Barrie Tyner, Gubbeen, Madeline of Sushi fame, Martin Conroy of Woodside and the folks at Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms.

FENN’S QUAY FOODIE FACE-OFF

FENN’S QUAY FOODIE FACE-OFF

Fair play to Fenn’s Quay’s  Head Chef Kate Lawlor: she has organised another foodie face-off in her restaurant over the coming Wednesdays. Paul Axford and Sarah O'Riordan are the contestants in the second semi-final of what is properly called Chef du Jour and the winner will take on Waterford’s Jeni Pim (above, left, with Kate) in the final.

First up is Paul Axford who takes over the kitchen on Wednesday the 29th. Kate tells me this enthusiastic amateur cook has “a nicely constructed menu”. Paul is fit and ready to go and there could be tackles flying in the kitchen as he is a rugby league aficionado with a particular gra for the Leeds Rhinos. You may read all (well, maybe not all!) about him on his blog http://probablyranting.wordpress.com and stay in touch via his tweets at @paxo13.

A week later, on March 7th, Sarah O’Riordan presents her menu. Sarah has a “proper” food blog at http://yummynom.blogspot.com and her twitter handle is @yummynom. Kate: “Our second contestant is also an enthusiastic cook and Sarah has come up with a quirky menu. She is buzzing with excitement and looking forward to her shift in the kitchen.”

“On each night, our guests will be treated to a 4 course menu at the reduced price of €36 and there will be a selection of wines available on the night for purchase. With communal tables, it's a great night for all foodies to chat about the food and wine. They will meet their chef and see how many stars the judges award.”

The first semi-final took place before Christmas when Waterford’s Jeni Pim got the nod ahead of Clare resident Paul Callaghan.

Chardonnay Marsanne, star of the Pfeiffer Parish

 Chardonnay Marsanne, star of the Pfeiffer Parish

 

Pfeiffer, Carlyle Chardonnay Marsanne, 2008 Australia, 13.5%, €14.55 Karwig Wines 

Carlyle is the name of the parish where Australia’s Pfeiffer Wines  are based and Chris Pfeiffer is so proud of this Chardonnay Marsanne wine that he named it after the parish.

This is about as local as you can get and these little things are important. I remember New Zealand wine-maker Tim Finn, one of the wine pioneers there, speaking in Star Anise before Christmas and mentioning one of his little blocks and its peculiar suitability for producing excellent wine from a certain grape. But Tim was in no doubt what would happen to that little parcel if a major wine company took over. It would just be dug up and the most profitable vine planted.

And that would inevitably lead to less and less choice for the consumer. The survival of the family farmer, be it in dairy, meat or wine, will ensure choice in the long term. It is important and a point underlined by Darina Allen in last week’s Ear to the Ground when she pleaded strongly for the survival of the small butcher.

 Chris is one of these passionate family wine-makers and, fortunately, they do exist and quite a few of them find a market here and indeed visit regularly as you can see here.

Chris (left) showed this wine a few months back at an Australian Stickie evening in the Hayfield. I was impressed with it then and perhaps more so now after a longer “study session”.

Colour is pale yellow with hints of green and the nose is aromatic. On the palate, you sense immediately something fresh and rare. Lets you know it’s there, a lively little number, yet the unusual grape duo produce quite a smooth creamy combination, a very nicely balanced wine, with a dry persistent finish.

When Chris and his wife Robyn (who also attended at the Hayfield) took over the winery in the mid 80s, they were delighted to receive important practical help from their neighbours, even if the nearest of the new friends lived about 40 miles away!

Chris was representing those same Rutherglen neighbours and fellow winemakers at the Hayfield and was every bit as eloquent in promoting their wines as in pushing his own, perhaps even more so. He is obviously proud of his area. No surprise then that he named this one after the parish. It is a lovely wine from what must be a lovely place.

Superb Food at the Hayfield Manor

Hayfield Manor Hotel

“Now you see her” is the title of a Joy Fielding mystery novel based in Cork. One of the main characters had excellent taste and based himself in the city’s five star Hayfield Manor Hotel.

I was there last Friday evening, no mystery, just there to enjoy a superb dinner at the Perrotts Garden Bistro, one of the Hotel’s two restaurants. The other option is the Orchids Restaurant but that was booked out by the time we started checking for places.

The Orchid may the favourite but the Bistro, though it may not have the carpet on the floor or the linen on the table, is still a class venue, great place for a group or a couple to enjoy a meal. Service is well tuned, delivered with efficiency, a smile and a chat (if you want).

The Monkfish

 We found it hard to pick a starter so took the easy way out and went for the lot, well for the Starter Plate for Two (18.00), a plate with samples of their Caesar Salad, Warm Crottin de Chevre, Tiger Prawn Spring Roll, House Smoked Magret Duck Breast and Shot of Soup. All tasty, though my personal favourites were perhaps the Caesar and the Duck! CL, after some deliberation, gave her one two to the Spring Roll and the Caesar.

Halibut

Then on to the Main Event, as they term it on the menu. CL went for the fish special: Roast Fillet of Monkfish, with Cabbage, Leek and Fennell Fondue (in own pot), crushed baby potato and chervil beurre blanc (24.00). No calories spared here in the creamy fondue and overall an excellent combination, a superb match.

Sauternes

Often I go for the special myself but this time picked the Pan Seared Fillet of Halibut, with Herb infused Potato Gnocchi, and crispy Alsace Bacon, with Carrot and shallot puree and Pea Shoots Salad. Not a great Gnocchi fan but must say that this was another super dish. Fish was done to perfection, the puree was a highlight as were the crunchy tasty bacon pieces, the flavour coming through cleanly to add contrast to the fish and the same could be said of the textures. A five star combination for sure.

We had a liquid dessert! Had a good look at the tempting list on the menu but, feeling rather full, we ordered a glass each of the Chateau Barbier Sauternes 2005 (9.00). And sip by sweet sip, we brought the meal to a lazy close.

A Hillside Pinot Grigio

A Hillside Pinot Grigio

Ronco Blanchis, Pinot Grigio, Collio, Italy 2010, 13.5% abv, €13.99 @Karwig Wines 

Colour: Straw is what the publicity says but that seems a little dull. Maybe barley flashing in the sun.

Nose: Quite aromatic and very promising.

Palate: This wine is quite full bodied with more flavour than usual, velvety, and more rounded than normal. Here you find fruit, a good balance and a decent finish. 

Quite a contender all round and would like to taste it in a head to head with the excellent pale Little Beauty Pinot Gris that Fleur McCree showed in L’Atitude last week.

Collio is a province of Gorizia, part of Friuli, and is next to Slovenia. It is said to produce Italy’s best and most expensive dry whites.

When speaking of Pinot Grigio, the reliable Vino Italiano says that “Friuli’s best are the best in Italy”. Honestly, I can’t tell you if this is the best in Friuli. But it ain’t half bad. Recommended.

And just to explain: Ronco is a term for a hillside vineyard.

Amuse Bouche

Time for your Amuse Bouche

In 16^th century England, the law dictated much of everyday life.

“Food was ...regulated... depending on status. A cardinal was permitted nine dishes at a meal while those earning less than £40 a year (which is to say most people) were allowed only three courses, plus soup. Happily, since Henry VIII’s break with Rome, eating meat on Friday was no longer a hanging offence, though anyone caught eating meat during Lent could still be sent to prison for three months.”

From Shakespeare by Bill Bryson.