BUSY BUZZ IN MARKET LANE

MARKET LANE

Walking into Oliver Plunkett Street’s Market Lane restaurant is like walking into a hive: busy, buzzing. And, yes, some sweet things but let us start at the beginning. This is a no reservation restaurant (unless you have a party of six or more) but we two were in early and, without delay, we were seated by the window.

My starter was Ham Hock Terrine and spiced apple relish with handmade linseed crackers and gherkins (€7.70). A pretty substantial plateful and really tasty. See my grainy Foodspotting shot here

Got away from the meat on the main course and picked the Spinach and ricotta ravioli with wild mushrooms, semi-sundried tomatoes, cream and parmesan (€13.95). There is a big choice of main courses but I was very happy with this. Very satisfying on all fronts, quality and quantity, loved the whole combination.

Saw some old favourites on the dessert menu (all 6 euro) but also spotted a newcomer (to me). That was Vanilla and Gingerbread Cheesecake with a Blueberry Compote. This was a beautiful dessert, layered in a large enough glass. It had a crunchy gingerbread topping; the vanilla was in the middle and then a substantial bed of delicious juicy berries. Looked well and tasted well. What more would you want?

Service was of the usual high standard, friendly and efficient. And wine? Well, not a bottle this time but I did enjoy a glass of their lovely Muriel Rioja Crianza 2007 (€6.50). Indeed, their drinks list is quite extensive here. There is a bar on the premises so you may have draught beer and bottles of course, cocktails, a choice of about twenty wines along with the teas and coffees.

MY TOP LOCAL RESTAURANTS

MY THIRTY ONE

Sticking to a list of 31 favourite restaurants again this year. Early on, thought I might well reach the next prime number up but there were a couple of disappointments and then a few favourites, including Nautilus and the Silk Purse, who shut their doors.

It wasn’t all doom and gloom: the 2010 baby Electric has gone from strength to strength and La Dolce Vita has taken up the vacancy in Proby’s Quay. And in addition, L’Atitude has just given us our first wine café.

I have been to all 31 (and others) over the past 12 months and have been happy enough with the results. Huge differences, of course, in styles and comfort over the range but I'd have no problem in going back to any of them. The list below, while roughly alphabetical, is in no particular order. Just be aware also that there are some really good ones that I haven't been to in 2011. You may see reviews for all of the 31 in this blog.

Made a bit of a resolution to get out into the county more often for 2011 and included Kinsale, Midleton and Clonakilty as targets. Got to Midleton a bit (enjoyed Sage) and Clonakilty too, not forgetting Timoleague (and Dillon’s). Still haven’t explored Kinsale to any great degree and, for 2012, now must include it and must also look north, to Mallow and Fermoy for example.

MY 31

(In no particular order)

1 Augustine’s

2 Annie’s

3 Blair’s Inn

4 Ballymaloe

5 Bramley Lodge

6 Cornstore

7 Costello’s Malthouse

8 Dillon’s

9 Electric

10 Fenn’s Quay

11 Fota Island Resort

12 Greene’s

13 Hayfield Manor

14 Isaac’s

15 Jacque’s

16 Jacobs on the Mall

17 La Dolce Vita

18 Les Gourmandises

19 Liberty Grill

20 Market Lane

21 Mabel Crawford’s

22 Nash 19

23 Richy’s Bistro

24 Rising Tide

25 Sage

26 Star Anise

27 The Farmgate

28 The Spinning Wheel

29 The Bosun

30 The Castle

31 The Pantry

Amuse Bouche

“Years ago, I spent a week reporting from the European parliament in Strasbourg. One evening, a group of MEPs asked if I would join them for dinner….. The meal exquisite – one superlative dish followed another – though I could scarcely enjoy it, since I knew that my paper…would be deeply unhappy about refunding the monstrous bill I could expect. Finally it arrived and I started to search for a credit card. This was greeted by looks of incredulous astonishment, as if I had stumbled into a Bateman cartoon – ‘the man who thought he had to buy his own dinner in Strasbourg’. ‘My dear fellow,’ said one of the MEPs, ‘you are a guest of the European Socialist group!’”. From Life’s Too Short to Drink Bad Wine by Simon Hoggart.

Midleton Farmers Market

Midleton Market this morning.
Happy Christmas to all the stallholders at Midleton, Mahon and elsewhere.
It has been a pleasure meeting you over the past 12 months - see you all again in 2012.
Click on image to enlarge

HAPPY CHRISTMAS FOLKS!

HAPPY CHRISTMAS FOLKS! DON'T BURN ALLTHE ALCOHOL!

You can check out the recipe here

Thanks to Stumbleupon

NASH 19 CHRISTMAS CRACKER

NASH 19 CHRISTMAS CRACKER

Nash 19 was buzzing when I arrived at lunch-time yesterday. Staff were flying but still had time for their usual friendliness, courtesy and top notch service.

My main course was also top drawer: Crowe’s Fillet of Pork Stroganoff with Wild Rice (above). The Pork and mushrooms, in a gorgeous sauce, were magnificent, served in their own bowl. A well dressed salad, including a lively pickled cucumber, was on the plate along with a generous cone of white and black rice, all in all a great match with the Pork. All for €14.50.

While waiting for the main dish, we were served with some breads and their well known olive oil. Both plates were cleaned. And then followed a wee cup of soup: Parsnip, Apple and Chorizo (right). Quite a surprise and a very tasty one indeed.

If you are in Nash 19 at Christmas you just have to try the house Christmas pudding and mince pie. We did and both are excellent, especially the pudding made from an old Nash family recipe. Superb.

Had a glass of Albarino, the Terras Guada O Rosal. Complex and seductive (not too sure about the latter on a winter day’s midday, maybe later!), it went down well. Quite a classy drink at any time of the day.

So two happy customers stepped out into Princes Street and, before I go further, may I wish Happy Christmas to all the folks in Nash 19 and indeed to all the Cork restaurants who have fed us some great dishes these last 12 months. Keep cooking up a storm in 2012!

NO SHOWS HAVE A COST

No Shows in Irish Restaurants Costing Businesses.

Irish Restaurants are reporting a dramatic increase in diners making bookings and not showing up this

WINE IN A BEER BOTTLE? ON TAP?

A FESTIVE WINE MIX
WINE IN A BEER BOTTLE! WHATEVER NEXT? ON TAP, OF COURSE.

Innocent Bystander, Victoria, 2010 Moscato, 5.5% (Bradley’s Off Licence)


According to Chris Pfeiffer, the Australian wine-maker who was in town recently, this wine is taking Australia by storm and it certainly went down well at the Australian Stickie Tasting in the Hayfield. The Moscato is imported by Liberty Wines and is on sale in 375ml bottles with a beer crown.


One of its big attractions of this Innocent Bystander  product  is the fact that the ABV is just 5.5% and it is naturally effervescent, a really tasty lively mouthful. Thought it might be handy around the Christmas and got a few bottles in Bradley’s, one of many stockists.


Surprised at the beer bottle top? There are more surprises to come. Just picked this straight from the Innocent Bystander website: Our Moscato is made from 100% Muscat grapes sourced from old vines, naturally effervescent and naturally pink. Perfectly balanced in sweetness and acidity, this wine has become such big phenomenon that it is available in selected venues nationally on tap.


It is quite versatile and makes an interesting aperitif. But if you want to stick with something more traditional then I’d suggest the Mont Marcal Extremarium Cava, that I really enjoyed at the recent CuriousWines Fair.


Want another talking point on your table this Christmas? Then why not try the popular Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz .   
This is what the company says: This non vintage wine sparkles to the tune of a well balanced blend; predominantly 3 year old Shiraz aged in old French oak barrels allowing wonderful smooth integration of fruit and a rich weighty texture across the palate. This is blended with a touch of younger vintage Shiraz to bring ripe juicy varietal fruit characters to the finished wine.


I first tasted it a few months back when winemaker Brad Rey visited Karwig Wines where it is on sale. Must say I really enjoyed it and it is quite versatile and Brad indicated you could use it in any situation where you would use a Pinot Noir. Talking point yes but no joke.


Need a white to go with the red for the Christmas dinner? How about one that has been aged in oak from seven different countries? Well since you’re in Karwig’s why not try their De Muller 2010 Chardonnay from Tarragona. It is a bright light gold in colour with a rather intense fruit nose. On the palate it is very smooth, almost creamy, and well balanced between fruit and acidity. Has also been on the lees for a spell.

The winery’s notes: A sumptuous white wine elaborated with our rich Mediterranean vines of Chardonnay, of great character and personality. The latter comes from its fermentation and ageing in French, American, Hungarian, Russian, Rumanian, Slovakian and German oak barrels and posterior and adequate batonnage. The process of fermentation and the time our Chardonnay has spent in barrels conveys the crystalline, shining and slightly golden yellow colour.

Port is a traditional post dinner drink. The Australians make quite a few of this type but can’t call it port. They usually end up with a long winded title such as Hamilton Ewell Fortified Red Wine, not too long really at least in this case. This is available from Bubble Brothers for about €18.00.


In the Hayfield, this didn’t appear on the Stickie list though there were one or two fairly similar. There, Chris Pfeiffer said that the Oz “ports” tend to be sweeter than the Douro, But this Hamilton Ewell effort, which has its hints of brown sugar and raisins, is not that sweet. It has “aged gracefully” in old oak barrels and, indeed, it could well pass for the Portuguese equivalent. Might be worth a try if you’re passing the Bubbles Bros outlet in the English Market during the week.

Cooking turkey to perfection   Ensure your bird is succulent, moist and roasted to perfection with our turkey how to guide. Complete with cooking times, it eliminates the guesswork on Christmas Day! How do you prepare your turkey?

More tips and recipes Guide to cooking turkey Roast turkey recipes Turkey stuffing Roast beef cooking times More Christmas tips

NEW HANDS ON THE BRICK OVEN

Click on image to enlarge

LA DOLCE VITA

There is a new kid on the brick. On the brick oven that is, once part of the Proby’s Quay restaurant of the same name. It has been taken over by an Italian-Chinese combo and they sure know how to work that brick oven, an essential for top class pizzas and lacking in many pizzerias even in Italy.

The two principals of the newly opened La Dolce Vita are Paolo Perrone from Sciacca, Italy and Jacky Sen Wang from Dahiam, China. They also have a brilliant staff, alert, friendly and informative. The fire was blazing when we stepped in from the bitter cold last night and, of course, that centre-piece oven helps heat the place as well.

Had every intention of ordering a pizza but that will have to wait, after a big change of mind. But let us start at the start which was an Antipasto Misto (15.95) to be shared between two: a massive plate-ful (photo) of meats, cheeses and vegetables, really well dressed and accompanied by another large plate, full of foccacia and a dish of mainly olives. So simple yet so tasty.

 And the same applies to my main course: Baked Sea Bream with lemon dill fresh tomato (16.95). “Lovely woods fried oven baked fish drizzles with olive oil.” A terrific full fish (see photo), soft and juicy. Just gorgeous. Loved the effect of the oven here.

 And that oven was also used in the other main dish. CL decided to go for an Italian favourite:  Pollo cacciatore (16.95), chicken supreme with mix vegetable in tomato sauce. There must be about 2000 versions of this Italian classic and this was another. But no complaints. A terrific simple dish at a very good price again.

Desserts were also well priced and we decided to share the Fresh Strawberry with crema di aceto balsamic and vanilla ice cream (4.95). It was quite a bowlful with the strawberries at the bottom. A lovely way to finish off a gorgeous meal. Maybe next time I’ll go for that pizza!

We had the Sicilian Njiro IGT 2009 Nero d’Avola (Per Bottle €17.90, Per Glass €4.50) and also the Verdicchio (Per Bottle €18.90, Per Glass €4.90), and found both more than fit for purpose and, again, well priced.

 So all in all it was two happy campers that, after a warm farewell from the LDV crew, that stepped to into the night. For some reason, it didn’t seem as cold as it was earlier! Maybe that kick ass double espresso (€2.50) had something to do with that! Ciao for a while.

WINES 2011: IT WAS A GOOD YEAR (for me!)

MY BEST OF 2011

Chateuneuf

Have to say, I really enjoyed my wines this year, both at home and abroad and at a series of superb tastings. Only the wines consumed at home (Dec ’10 to Nov ’11) and available in Ireland were considered for this list.

And that means that my precious haul from the holiday in Provence is out. Had some fantastic ones on that trip and perhaps my favourite (there are still a few to try!) was the Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages Tradition.

There were wine tastings galore in Cork, with regions from as far west as California to as far east as New Zealand displaying their wares. Pretty hard to pick one from so many superb showings but the Pfeiffer Grand Muscat, from the recent Australia Stickie event in the Hayfield, was outstanding. Unfortunately, the Grand is not available here but Karwig Wines have both the Pfeiffer Topaque and the Pfeiffer Muscat, each a delicious sweet wine.

I'm certain I've left some good ones of of this list. What wines would you add?   Use the comment facility below and remember it must be on sale in Ireland.





REDS


Domaine de la Citadelle, Cotes du Luberon 2004 (Gouverneur Saint Auban) 14.5% (The Wine Store)

Cat Walk Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Barossa (Australia), 14.5%, €16.99 RRP, stockists,

Émigré 2002, Barossa Valley, Australia, 15.5%,

Little Beauty Pinot Noir 2009 (Marlborough, New Zealand), 14%, €23.99,

Quinta Do Judeu’s Vinho Tinto, Douro 2007, 14.5% Abv, €21-23, Stockists,

Finca Museum Vinea Reserva, Tempranillo 2005, Cigales, 14%, €8.00 Tesco,

Corona d’Aragon Garnacha / Cariñena, 2008, Spain, ABV: 13.5%, €13.99 stockists

Beso de Vino Seleccion 2009 Cariñena Spain Syrah (85%) and Garnacha 13.5% €9.99

Fontanario de Pegoes Palmela DO Reserva 2007 (Portugal), 14%, €16.99,

Domaine des Anges “Archange”, Cotes de Ventoux, 2006, 14%, €19.20, Karwig Wines,




WHITES


Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc Limited Edition 2009, New Zealand, 13.5%, €15.99,

Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, Chardonnay 2009, 13.5%, €16.99, stockists

Kerpen Riesling Blauchiefer Trocken 2010, 11.5%, €12.69 (Karwig Wines),

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2005, Hunter Valley Australia, 12%, €10.00 Tesco,

Chateau Miraval Terre Blanche, Côtes de Provence, 2009, 15%, Curious Wines (€22.00),

Langmeil Eden Valley Chardonnay 2010 13%, Curious Wines €11.99,




SWEET-SPARKLING-FORTIFIED



Mont Marcal Extremarium Cava (Curious Wines)

Dexheimer Heimersheimer Sonnenberg Scheurebe, Riesling Eiswein, 2004, ABV 9%, Karwig Wines (€20.18 for 37.5cl).

Sherry Amontillado: Gonzalez Byass Del Duque Amontillado Vejo (aged 30 years in oak), available at Bradley's North Main Street, Cork

Taylor’s Chip Dry Extra Dry White Port, 20%, (Bradleys, North Main Street)

Sherry Oloroso: Lustau Solera Reserva Dry Oloroso Don Nuno (Bradley's, North Main Street)

Sherry PX: Lustao Solera Reserva San Emilio Dulce (Bradley's, North Main Street)

Grant Burge 10 Year Old Tawny, Barossa Valley. O'Donovan's Cork and Sweeney's Glasnevin.

Hamilton Ewell VAT 50 Fortified Red Wine, South Australia (Bubble Brothers)

VOUCHERS FOR EVERY FOODIE

GOOD FOOD IRELAND'S VERSATILE VOUCHERS

The Perfect Gift for Food Lovers for any Occasion 

Good Food Ireland, Ireland’s All-Ireland food tourism group, are delighted to announce the launch of their Christmas gift vouchers. These unique vouchers can be used at over 350 Good Food Ireland members throughout Ireland for accommodation, cookery courses or meals out in one of the many Good Food Ireland recommended places around the country.

Select from the fabulous range of Good Food Ireland 5 star hotels, restaurants, cookery schools, cafes, pubs and shops this festive season and experience the very best in Irish cuisine and hospitality.

Whether you are looking for a relaxing spa weekend, or dinner in a famous Irish eatery, a Good Food Ireland gift voucher is the perfect gift this Christmas. Spoil the one you love or simply say thank you with a thoughtful treat or break away this season.

 A gift voucher from Good Food Ireland is the ideal gift for anyone who simply loves good Irish food!

Gift vouchers are available from €10. These vouchers will be available for purchase on the Good Food Ireland website and also by contacting the main head office. Log onto www.goodfoodireland.ie for further information.

THE CLASSY CORONA COLLECTION

THE CLASSY CORONA COLLECTION


Importers Wine Alliance have added to their Corona de Aragón portfolio with a classic trio: Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. The three recently imported have all spent time in oak: 8 months for the Crianza, 14 months for the Reserva and 24 months in the case of the Gran Reserva.

All three are made from the same four grapes. It is mainly Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon but while the handpicked old vine Garnacha and Cariñena (Carignan), over 40 years old in each case, may be the minority grapes, they play a big role.

I don’t want to go on with too much detail but I do find it quite fascinating and if you want to follow it up you’ll find much more on the Corona wines at their excellent site here.  All in all, Corona take their wines seriously and this trio underlines it.

Corona de Aragón Crianza 2008, Cariñena Spain, 13%. Stockists, €12-14, recommended.

This is a medium red with red fruit on the nose. It is fruity and easy drinking and comfortably spicy. You can more easily determine these characteristics by agitating the wine in the glass but your best bet is to fill the glass, sit back and enjoy.

Corona de Aragón Reserva 2006, Cariñena Spain, 13%. Stockists, €14-16, highly recommended. 

This has quite a fruity nose, mainly ripe plum for me. On the palate, it is intense, fruity, spicy and dry. This was a good year in the area and this is a very good wine indeed with a long lasting finish.

One other good thing about this smooth beauty is that you may keep it until 2018. I won’t be taking that chance!

Corona de Aragón Gran Reserva 2004, Cariñena Spain, 13%. Stockists, €19-21. Very highly recommended. 

The Gran Reserva has a terrific bouquet of ripe fruit aromas plus spice notes. In the mouth, it is smooth and elegant, so well balanced with rounded off fruit and spice, a terrific mouthfeel and, again, long lasting at the end.

Undoubtedly, this superb wine is the best of the three. Undoubtedly also, all three are good and each is value for money.

*****

Corona de Aragón Disparates Tempranillo 2010, Cariñena Spain, 13.5%. Stockists, €12-14. recommended 


And now for something different. This Tempranillo is produced as part of a “special and limited collection of varietals” under the Disparates de Goya label. Goya’s homeland is nearby. The label on this bottle is by Mariano Rubio and is titled “Only Goya, Goya alone”.

But what is in the bottle? Well, quite a good wine indeed. Colour is dark red with black fruit and spice hints on the nose. You meet that dark fruitiness again on the palate. The wine is quite peppery and dry and quite smooth and silky with an excellent finish.

There is much more info on the wine varietals and the associated art and it is really nicely laid out and, I think, well worth a visit at their site here.