CHRIS PFEIFFER: SUPERB ON STICKIES

CHRIS PFEIFFER: SUPERB ON STICKIES

Stickie wicket

Yet another lovely wine evening in Cork, thanks mainly to a superb contribution by Australian Chris Pfeiffer. The renowned and deservedly much honoured Rutherglen winemaker was on his favourite subject: Australian stickies (fortified and dessert wines), and the Vine Wine Cellar in the Hayfield Manor was an excellent venue for the tasting, delivered with an abundance of intimate knowledge and no little humour.

Chris, as is his wont, was representing his neighbours’ as well as his own wines, and started us off with a NV Innocent Bystander Pink Moscato. This inviting 5.5% ABV carbonated effort “is taking the country (Australia) by storm” and certainly went down well at our table. Distributed by Liberty Wines, it is widely available here.

Then came the 2010 Brown Brothers Orange Muscat and Flora, weighing in at 11.5% or so, and also widely available. The Brown family are neighbours of Chris: “Forty five miles away but that’s neighbours in Australia. It is easy drinking, full of flavour and freshness and simple to enjoy.”

Now for the first of the true stickies: a 2009 Pete Lehmann Botrytis Semillon (Barossa Valley). This was the “..more classic, European style..complex..more persistent..with a delicious lusciousness on the middle palate..” Available from O’Donovan’s, Molloys and independent Off Licences.

Chris Pfeiffer

“Grant Burge is passionate about fortified wines” said Chris as he introduced the 10 Year Old Tawny (Barossa Valley). “The brandy spirit here plays an important additional role by adding flavour. Australian wines tend to be sweeter than the Douro.” This beauty, available from O’Donovan’s, Cellars, and Sweeney’s of Glasnevin, went down well.

I preferred the Tawny as did quite a few but the next wine, available through and at Curious Wines, also had many advocates including John McDonnell of Wine Australia Ireland who was helping Chris on the night. This was the 2006 Woodstock Vintage Shiraz from the McLaren Vale, “plum pudding and mince in a glass”.

Chris had lots of anecdotes about the wine industry and  let us know at this point that the table wines “pay” for the fortified wines which are regarded as “an accountant’s nightmare, because they tie up so much capital”. Fortunately, thanks to people like Chris, the accountants don't always have their way. “Fortified wines are undervalued...they deliver great punch for your pound!”

The next three wines were all by Chris, all from Rutherglen. The first was the Pfeiffer Topaque (previously called Tokay). “This is 100% Moscatel. No Botrytis here but it is well ripened and the last grape we pick (in June). There is plenty of accumulated sugar but we don't lose the fruit.” And this luscious flavour-full wine was well liked at our table.

Like the Topaque, the Pfeiffer Muscat spends five years in wood. The grapes have been harvested at high sugar levels and then the different parcels are blended to produce a youthful fresh wine. Sweet yes, Christmas pudding was mentioned, but not cloying.

Then we had the most fantastic bonus: Pfeiffer Grand Muscat. This expensive wine is not available in Ireland so I made the most of our taster, taking it tiny sip by tiny sip. It is twenty years old and has spent most of that time in barrel. “It is a very special occasion wine (like old Cognac). It is very complex and you don't need much.”

Ballymaloe's Colm McCan and yours truly

Yes indeed. And, believe it or not, Pfeiffer also do a Rare Muscat, four years older than the Grand. Like to get a  sip or two of that sometime.

And so this lovely stickie tasting came to an end but we weren't quite finished yet as Chris also had some of his bread and butter table wines to show us. Indeed, we had started on entry with a very attractive 2008 Pfeiffer Carlyle Chardonnay Marsanne. Up to 45% is Marsanne and 6 months contact with the lees also helps round it off. As the evening closed, we had some very tasty nibbles from the Hayfield and sampled two excellent easy drinking reds: the 2008 Carlyle Shiraz and the 2008 Carlyle Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Rutherglen wines, table, fortified and dessert, are available at and distributed by Karwig Wines. Worth a  call before Christmas!

THE APPLE FARMER

THE APPLE FARMER

Driving along the tree lined avenue to the Apple Farm in Moorstown (near Cahir) on the last day of November, I was expecting everything to be very quiet. Instead, it was quietly busy.

Con, with a fairly mature plum tree

The fruit trees, mainly apple and plum, may be more or less dormant but the maintenance work goes on. That was especially evident in the strawberry beds, raised on metal supports, where the dying vegetation was being trimmed back, leaving the crowns.

Technique and timing are each important in the out of season work, especially in the pruning of the trees, and owner Con Traas is confident in the skills of his crew.

Con, whose family came here from Holland in the late 60s, was at his desk, working on the winter edition of The Apple Club Newsletter. Typical of the man, the 1500 copies are printed on recycled paper.

He plays a leading role in the food community in Tipperary, always keen to promote a good product (not just from Tipp) and always keeping an eye on the big supermarkets, especially on their “special” offers.

Con may be vastly experienced in fruit farming but is always willing to learn. He had a PhD student in during the summer studying the bumble bees on the farm and Con learned that he had five species. The student learned a lot and so did Con: “I now know for sure that, if I want plenty of bees to be there to pollinate my apple trees, that I must do my utmost to ensure…plenty of flowering plants to feed my bees when the apples themselves are not in flower.”

Con took time off from the computer to take us on a tour, starting in the shop which is so well stocked with fruit, jams and juices. Then we saw his new processing shed, white and bright and nearing completion. While much of the work in the fields is manual, processing is largely mechanical as we saw when we visited the sorting and juicing areas.

Apple Storage too is pretty high-tech as they are kept in a Controlled Atmosphere within the containers. The amount of oxygen, controlled within the container, plays a big role here in keeping the apples nice and fresh and crispy for you when you need them, even a few months from now.

Then, back to the shop to fill the bags with loads of juice, including my favourite, The Sparkling Irish Apple Juice, fruit (eating and cooking apples) and also lots of jam (mainly the plum, another favourite).

Calling all small food and drink producers!

Calling all small food and drink producers!

Bord Bia Small Business Open Day

'Delivering insights for success in 2012'

Bord Bia will hold a Small Business Open Day for small food and drink producers on the 18^th January, 2012 between 9.00am and 2.30pm at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Blanchardstown, Dublin 15.

The Bord Bia Small Business Open Day will provide an opportunity for small food and drink producers to access the range of programmes and services available to support business success in 2012. The event, entitled ‘Delivering insights for success in 2012’, will showcase the wide range of services on offer from Bord Bia and other support agencies and organisations to assist companies in planning for growth and business development. The Open Day will also provide delegates with an opportunity to network with other food and drink producers.

PERIscope 6, the latest research findings on Irish consumer behavior and attitudes towards food, shopping and cooking, will be presented by Bord Bia. A case study will explore new and innovative ways of developing a successful brand. There will also be a presentation of recommendations on how to develop an Online Marketing Strategy. Tips will also be provided on how to conduct a financial health check for businesses in 2012.

The event is free of charge to attend. To secure your place at the Bord Bia Small Business Open Day, please contact Rebecca Moore by email at rebecca.moore@bordbia.ie or by phone at (01) 6142204. For further information or to book online, please visit www.bordbiavantage.ie.

BARRY'S TEA WINNERS

Congrats to the winners of the special Barry's Tea Santa packs.

Emma Lynch (Cork)
Ger Ring (Cork);
Mary Horgan (Cork);
Sean Hegarty (Cork);
Belinda Daly (Dublin);
Ivan Bevan (Cork);
Isabel Ann Jones (Cork);
Josephine Battye (Waterford);
Lorraine Ni Bhealatuin (Laois);
Donal Riordan (Cork).

Amuse Bouche

“To accompany my mother to a restaurant is a mortifying experience. When we go in, she looks over the tables, checking what other people are eating, sometimes so closely that she alarms the diners. She reads the menu with excessive attention and torments the waiter with malicious questions that force him to go to the kitchen and return with written answers. Then she urges us all to order something different, and when the food arrives she takes photos…  The rest is easy; she takes a bite from each plate and with that taste knows how to interpret it later at home…” From Aphrodite by Isabel Allende.

YALI MERLOT FROM CHILE

YALI NATIONAL RESERVA, MERLOT, MAIPA VALLEY, CHILE, 2010, 13.5%, €12.99 TESCO, €9.99 COSTCUTTERS AND CARRY OUT.


This is a darkish red with a healthy sheen. On the nose, there are red and black fruits, including plum, and also a hint of vanilla. It is full flavoured with an immediate impact on the sensors, fresh and medium bodied, dry and well balanced with a pleasant spicy finish.

Ideal at 16-18°C, this wine is a perfect match for semi-mature cheeses, pasta and grilled meats.

Quite likeable, in fact. And the distributors list other considerations that you may like. Vina Ventisquero are committed to good environmental practices. The bottle is lightweight; transport emissions are offset via Climate Care and Yali, named after nearly conservation area, have a partnership with Birdwatch Ireland.

If you want to give it a go at a bargain price, you’ll find it as part of the December Meal Deal in Tesco which means you’ll get main course, side dish and dessert plus a bottle of Yali from €12.00. Sales Director Americo Hernandez is very pleased with the success of Yali here: “There are five wines n the range, all single varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Chardonnay, available at Carry Out and Costcutters, plus Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc which are also stocked by Tesco. In line with Vino Ventisqueros objectives, Yali wines trend towards lower alcohol. This allows the fruit potential to be more fully expressed in fresh, exceptionally well balanced wines, honest to their varieties.”

CURIOUS WINES TREASURE TROVE

Mont Marcal's Gareth York (right) with Clare and myself and that gorgeous good value Cava!
Pic by Ger McCarthy

CURIOUS WINES TREASURE TROVE


When most people go to Curious Wines, they leave with wine, naturally enough. Me? I leave with a recipe, thanks to Gareth York of Mont Marcal Vinicola Penedes (Spain).

But I must admit I did get through quite a bit of tasting before I got to Gareth! All you Curious fans, and there are quite a few of you, will know that the brothers Kane have a massive selection and, in fairness, had dozens of bottles open during their Wine Fair in aid of the Guide Dogs last weekend. And the good news is that they have plenty left to sell between now and Christmas.

I’ve often heard and read the brothers talking up the Ned Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and now I’ve have to join them. It is top class but they’ve got some other cracking SBs from down, under including the Ant Moore and the Kings Favor.

Others whites that impressed on Friday evening were the Chartron & Trebuchet Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay 2010 and the Pellehaut Ampelomeryx 2009.

I’ll leave the Spanish, and Gareth’s stand, ‘til later. Started the reds with a Crane Lane Pinot Noir 2009 (8.49) from California but that was soon outmatched by The Ned 2010 (19.99) and another Kiwi The Kings Wrath 2009 (22.00).

Liked the Gregorina Sangiovese Superiore 2010 on sale at 9.99, even though it was a bit on the cold side, and then moved on to the Spanish.

Well, I had already tasted a pretty good Valdamor Albarino 2008 here at €16.99 and also a nice fruity Mont Marcal Blanco 2010 at a very reasonable €7.99. The Red will cost you the same. These two would be quite acceptable at the Christmas party, or indeed, at any party.

They had two excellent Riojas here. First was the more basic Vallobera Pago Malarina 2008, on sale at €8.99, and then the Vallobera Crianza at €11.99.

It was while we were quaffing the Cava, especially the Mont Marcal Extremarium, that I got really chatting with Gareth who is based in Barcelona with the company.

Gareth is a big fan of Café Paradiso’s Denis Cotter and of US food writer Coleman Andrews. He didn’t know about the US writer’s Irish book but highly recommended his Catalan Cuisine.

Gareth likes to play his music when he is in the kitchen and this recipe is one of his favourites to accompany the Cava. I’m not sure if it comes from the Andrews book. Maybe not.

Basically, you’ll need to toast some good quality bread and use your Iberico ham at room temperature (not straight from the fridge). Iberico ham (“the one with the acorns”) is best but you may use Serrano. You will also need really ripe tomatoes. “If hard, grate them and make a puree to which you add olive oil and salt”.

Then you pile your ham and the purée on to your toast. Pour a glass of Cava, probably your second one, and away you go!

Christmas parties made easy   Hosting parties this festive season just got easier with our simple but impressive recipes. We have a whole collection of Make−ahead dinner party recipes, as well as anew video showing three easy and tasty ways with smoked salmon. What’s your best party recipe?

All you need for a perfect party All Christmas party recipes Smoked salmon party food video Party nibbles Canapés Party drinks

BARRY'S TEA COMPETITION

BARRY’S TEA FOR YOU – THIS CHRISTMAS

There was a lot of interest in our recent post on the special Santa pack from Barry’s Tea. Briefly, Barry’s Tea created the limited edition Santa’s Tea box which is for sale exclusively on barrysteashop.ie for tea fans at home and abroad. The box is only €3.25 which is a winner for stocking fillers and sending to family and friends across the world via The Online Tea Shop

Now the good news is that they are giving us ten packs for a free contest, a contest that you may enter from home and abroad. But you need to get cracking. Tuesday next (Dec 6th) is the final date for posting abroad. So move on over to our Facebook and just press like or comment and all entries will go into the hat next Monday at noon Irish time and the ten winners will be chosen.

AVRIL: ON THE ROAD FROM ROSS

ROSSCARBERY RECIPES

On Friday morning, I drove down to Supervalu in Ticknock in Cobh to see Avril Allshire-Howe who was on duty with her samples of her Rosscarbery black and white pudding. The black is very good but the white is really amazing and is a great match with scallops. Avril is on the road regularly and will be travelling all over the county every day ‘til Christmas and still finds time to help the food movement in West Cork.

Avril is the public face of Rosscarbery Recipes and Caherbeg Free Range Pork but she will be the first to tell you that husband Willie and the rest of the family are major players on the West Cork farm. On Friday, she was also serving sample slices from her delicious Cheddar and Stout Cake which is not commercially available but which goes well with the puddings.

But don’t worry. The busy Avril also produces a newsletter and the latest edition contains the recipe for the cake and much more foodie information besides. You can read most of it, including the recipe, at the end of this post.

I hope to meet up with Avril again in the New Year and do a full post and I have also featured her here  in a Buy Local plea.


Speaking of local, there were quite a few people showing their wares in the Supervalu in Ticknock and I really enjoyed meeting them. Loved the in-house mince pies (with custard) and also the rashers from Truly Irish.  Very tasty.

Also met a few of the staff as I walked around and must say I’ve rarely met a nicer friendlier helpful bunch in any supermarket. Great atmosphere there.

For the Rosscarbery Recipes newsletter

BUY LOCAL

BUY LOCAL

I’ve been privileged this past week to have had four longish conversations with local food heroes: Kay Harte of the Farmgate Café  in Cork’s English Market, Pat Whelan of James Whelan Butchers  in Clonmel, Con Traas of the Apple Farm  in Cahir and Avril Allshire-Howe of Rosscarbery Recipes and Caherbeg Pork.

Had a couple of hours with Kay when she hosted myself and two US bloggers from the mega site footspotting.com. Then made a long promised trip to Tipp to see Pat Whelan and his marvelous shop and hear his history in food and his plans for the future, particularly that new shop that opens in Monkstown (Dublin) next week; lucky people in the Monkstown area.


And then called to the Apple Farm at Moorstown near Cahir where I met Con Traas. Lots of tidying-up work going on in the orchards and in the raised strawberry "beds" and a new processing building coming close to completion. Such a positive busy man in a positive place. And still time to pick me a four leaf clover.

Later in the week, I drove down to Supervalu (what a friendly supermarket!) in Ticknock in Cobh to see Avril who was on duty with her samples of her black and white pudding. The black is good but the white is really amazing and is a great match with scallops. Avril is on the road regularly and will be travelling all over the county every day ‘til Christmas and still finds time to help the food movement in West Cork.

Just underlines the hard work people in the food business put in. That is common to all that I’ve met in recent years. All too are proud of their work and are passionate about their produce and all talk of their integrity. And it is not just talk. They make sure the food you get is well sourced, in many cases they have control from start to finish, and quite often they have turned down the big bucks to stay cuiseach beag and maintain their integrity.

It was a pretty dull gloomy week all around, both in weather and financial terms. Yet these four showed me the bright side. I’m sure you all know someone like them, in your own county, in your own parish. Quite often, it is a family effort, with both parents and kids involved.

They should be supported by us. In the shops, in the markets, in the restaurants and wherever we eat and drink. Might not halt the economic storms but, sink or swim, by buying local, you’ll eat better!

TRUFFLES IN MAHON!

TRUFFLES IN MAHON!

Don’t all rush down to Mahon. My headline is a little deceptive! I’m talking here about young truffle trees.

You never know what you’ll see at the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market on a Thursday morning. Dropped down today for a quick run and was surprised to see the Ballyhoura Wild Mushroom stand there and I’m told it will be there until Christmas.

So we took advantage and we helped ourselves to their Shiitake Mushroom soup, one of a number available and also picked up a bunch of Chanterelle (demolished at lunch-time, I must admit!).

The big surprise though was the fact that they are selling Truffle trees, Tuber Aestivum var. uncinatum to be exact, also known as the UK summer truffle. When you buy your trees, you get a very informative leaflet on choosing and preparing your site, on how to care for your tree and how and when to look for truffles.

Ballyhoura Mushrooms will be in Mahon, as I’ve said, at least until Christmas, and you may also catch up with them at the Douglas Farmers Market every Saturday morning.

Great also to catch up with Old Millbank Smokehouse. We enjoyed their smoked produce at a recent lunch in the Farmgate and were glad to pass on the word that the pictures had gone all over the net via @foodspotting and via this post.

Interesting chat too with @jozeemac, about food of course, and then more shopping at @greensaffron (including Christmas pudding, believe it or not!), @woodside (gorgeous pork steak) , Arbutus Breads  (irresistible seeded sourdough), Flynn’s Kitchen ( (top notch jam and soup on this occasion) and more.

Great way to spend an hour or two on a Thursday. Now, if those truffle trees work out, there could be even more surprises in those stalls.

CURVES AND COLOURS IN A BUTCHER’S SHOP

CURVES AND COLOURS IN A BUTCHER’S SHOP

Never knew that meat had so many variations in colour until I saw the counter in James Whelan’s shop yesterday. What a superb display for the customer. And so much information. All well laid out and superbly lit. The soft overhead lights do their job well; there is virtually no glare and the customer sees the meat as it is.

Must say I had a terrific guide in Pat Whelan himself, taking time out from his busy day which also included a trip to the Avoca Food Market in Monkstown (Dublin) to oversee preparations for the opening of his new butcher shop there. Would love to live near a Whelan shop but at least we can always buy online .

Pat explained that the lighting was an integral part of the design and then pointed to the floor (an earthy colour) and to the ceiling (sky colours) and said the meat was the bounty of nature in between.

Curves abound too in the shop, virtually no hard angles. Fung Shui principles were employed. Pat admitted to being gob smacked when the German designer first explained the plan to him but had a good feeling about it and signed the cheque. It has worked out very well indeed.

All the major meats are well laid out here and some minor ones, everything from rabbit to beef and poultry of course and no shortage of info as to where it was raised and bred, much of it on the nearby Whlena farms.

Opposite the counter, there is a long row of shelves, generally with packs, including a whole range of puddings, from as near as Inch House and from as far as Newport (Kelly’s).

Whelan’s own pre-packed products are also displayed here, vacuum packed bacon and ham, sausages, rashers and so on. The packaging is transparent. You can visually examine the contents. Another example of the Whelan integrity! What you see is what you get.

Towards the back of the shop, there is semi-circle (curves again) that contains the “deli”, another inviting counter where you can buy prepared or semi-prepared meals, everything from Boeuf Bourguignon to a mini quiche. It very much resembles the “traiteur” counter in a French butcher shop.

Pat has also managed to find the time to author a cook book called An Irish Butcher Shop. It is full of recipes and because it is written by an Irishman for an Irish audience, you won’t have any problem finding the ingredients.

The recipes are, I can say, brilliant and if you need any further help, there is a treasure trove of help, videos even, on the Whelan site which is well worth a visit. But, I have to encourage you to make a visit to the real shop and see one of the gems of the Irish food scene.

Just hope that these few words and pictures do it justice.