A WORLD OF COFFEE

A WORLD OF COFFEE

Joined the Robert Roberts Connoisseur Coffee Club at the start of the year and have enjoyed the experience so far. A new pack arrives every month and the cost, paid upfront, works out at about four euro a pack.

A high standard was set by the first one in January, a medium strong Brazilian Bruzzi and the packs that followed, which came from all over the coffee producing world, maintained the high standard.

Next came the unusual Monsoon Malabar  from India followed by the more delicate Sigri A  from Papua New Guinea.

April saw the arrival of the Columbian Paraiso followed by a purple patch as far as I was concerned starting with the Malawi Mzuzu AAA.

The June edition featured another African, a good strong Organic Yirgacheffe from Ethiopia, and then followed two more of my favourites: Organic Peruvian Cecovesa and August’s Finca La Bastilla from Nicaragua. Just finished the September pack of Guatemala’s Los Volcanes, again good and strong.

That means an opening later on today of the October pack which comes from Kenya and is named the AA Mweiga Estate. Gareth Scully, the Master Blender at Roberts , is very happy with this very aromatic full bodied cup and he hasn’t let us down yet! Looking forward to that!

CORGO DA REGUA - YOUR EVERYDAY RED

QUINTA DO JUDEU’S CORGO DA REGUA, DOURO (PORTUGAL) 2008, 14% ABV, €10 TO 12, STOCKISTS, 4 STARS

The folks at Quinta do Judeu claim that this wine, named after a local river, is perfect to match everyday meals. I reckon they are right. Get a couple of these and you’d be ready for most red wine occasions.

Made my first acquaintance with this red over the weekend and must say I am impressed. Quite a lengthy introduction as the grapes used are not that familiar to me. They are: Tourigo National 10%, Tourigo Franca 20, Tinto Roriz 35 and Tinto Barroca 35.

The colour is dark red and there are red fruits, and spice, on the nose. On the palate, you again come across the fruits and the spice (a comfortable level) and a lovely warming medium weight mouthfeel. The tannins have smoothed the way here, all the way to an excellent finish. Good value too.

Must say I like this stuff, generous from start to the finish when the last drops tumble down from the commodious hollow stem of the standard Riedel receptacle. Not just a happy ending. More a happy story.

The Corgo da Regua is imported by Wine Alliance and you may check all the technical details, and more, here.

CHRISTMAS PUD - MAKE IT NOW!

Getting better with age   Your Christmas cake and pudding are best made this month, for time to age that leads to an incomparable flavour come Christmas! Email us your Christmas tips

Recipes and tips How to steam Christmas pudding Amazing Christmas cake Luxury Christmas cake Traditional Christmas pudding Ultimate Christmas cake

SUNNY MORNING AT DOUGLAS FARMERS MARKET

DOUGLAS FARMERS MARKET

November sunshine flooded the Douglas Farmers Market this Saturday morning as I strolled around among the thirty or so stalls. It was my first visit here and glad to see old familiar faces such as Woodside and Flynn's Kitchen but great too to meet up with the newcomers of the Ballyhoura Wild Mushroom stall (soon to have a permanent one!) and also La Dolce Vita.

Let’s start with the Italian. After all we owe Trap and company - big time! And of course the Italian cuisine is no punishment. Far from it. We got a few tastes before settling on a Bolognaise ragout and a couple of bunches of Tagliattelli.

That was the night's main course settled. Starter? It was just a few steps away at the Ballyhoura Wild Mushroom stand. Again a couple of tastings before purchasing a gorgeous soup. There was a good date on that so we kept exploring and settled on some chanterelles for the starter. They have quite a selection, including Shiitake and Oyster.

While we call regularly to Woodside  and Flynn’s Kitchen , they too had something new, at least new to us. Enjoyed some of Woodside’s extra tasty gluten free honey sausages at lunch-time.

Iain Flynn makes some terrific jams but it was the first time I had spotted his mixed berry with black pepper and kirsch, a terrific match with the sourdough from Arbutus close by.

Room in the bag for ten rosy red apples, total cost just 2 euro, and then headed across the village to On the Pigs Back. What a beautiful sparkling clean shop with all the choices we’ve come to expect at the English Market and space too for a cuppa and a snack.

Got some cheese here, again after a tasting. So we’re pretty sure we’ll enjoy the Mossfield Organic Mature Gouda with Oregano.

SIX TOP YOUNG CHEFS IN EURO-TOQUES FINAL

Its Hotting Up in the Kitchen

Euro-toques Young Chef Competition 2011 – Finalists announced

The temperature has been high in the kitchen and now the finalists, six outstanding young professional chefs from around the country, have been announced (8 November) each competing  for this year’s Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year 2011.

The Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year, in association with BIM & Failte Ireland, is the only professional culinary competition in the country based around local and artisan food ingredients. Through mentoring and training based prizes the competition aims to contribute to the professional development of promising young industry professionals.

Despite the recession the number of skilled chefs in Ireland significantly falls short of the demand in Irish kitchens and restaurants; many qualified chefs travel abroad and not enough return home!  For 21 years, the Euro-toques Young Chef competition has been searching for – and nurturing - the future culinary talent of Ireland.

Celebrating this achievement are Kamil Dubanik (23) from Knockranny House Hotel, Westport; Aisling Gallagher (24) from Ballynahinch Castle, Galway; Kyle Greer (24) from No 27 Talbot Street Belfast; Micheal Harley (22) from Rathmullan House, Co. Donegal; David Magaeen (24) from Restaurant Victoria Belfast and Margaret Roche (23) from The Cellar at The Merrion Hotel Dublin. (detailed biogs below).

Such industry chefs as Paul Flynn, Ross Lewis and current Euro-toques Commissioner-General Gearoid Lynch are involved in the competition judging, along with representatives from competition partners BIM and Failte Ireland. Candidates, who must be under the age of 25, submitted a written recipe entry and were then shortlisted for interview and a blind taste test. From these two stages, six finalists were selected to compete in the final.

The heat is now on!  These six finalists now have the next 3 weeks to devise and practice their dishes for the culinary skills test final in Chapter One Restaurant on Sunday 27th November. They must prepare and plate 2 portions of an original dish, using Dublin Bay Prawns and Achill Island Turbot, and present it to the panel of 5 chef judges for tasting, within 70 minutes. On the skills test judging panel Paul Flynn (The Tannery Dungarvan) and Ross Lewis (Chapter One Restaurant Dublin) will be joined by Lorcan Cribbin (Il Segreto Restaurant Dublin), Marc Amand, MD La Rousse Foods and panel chair Neil McFadden. Both Cribbin & McFadden have competed for Ireland on a World Stage in the renowned Bocuse d’Or and know what it takes to compete at that level.

In addition, over the next 3 weeks, the six young finalists will also need to perfect their dishes for a tasting menu which will showcase their talents for state, industry and media guests at the 5 star Merrion Hotel Dublin on Monday 28th of November. Each of the finalists will be introduced to guests before their course is served. At the end of the presentation lunch  the 21st Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year will be announced.

Despite the recession the number of skilled chefs in Ireland significantly falls short of the demand in Irish kitchens and restaurants; many qualified chefs travel abroad and not enough return home!  For 21 years, the Euro-toques Young Chef competition has been searching for – and nurturing - the future culinary talent of Ireland.

“We are crying out for talented, hard-working chefs in our kitchens right now” commented Gearoid Lynch, Commissioner General Euro-toques Ireland at today’s event.  “It is very heartening to see young chefs such as these six, who are willing to push themselves, aim ever higher and who see a future for themselves in this industry. This competition allows us to contribute to their development as chefs and also to hold them up as examples to those who may come after them; both in terms of what is expected of them, but also what they can achieve. It is also hugely important for us to recognise the experienced chefs who give their time and commitment to training future talent. Our competition partners BIM and Failte Ireland have recognised the role that chefs have to play in promoting Irish food and tourism, and we must ensure our industry lives up to that expectation by investing in its future”.

The competition emphasises training and development, with the role of the mentor being central to the process.  This years sponsors are BIM and Failte Ireland and their involvement reflects their recognition of the importance of chefs in building Ireland’s national and international food reputation, the pivotal role that ‘local food’ plays in this and, above all, their commitment to education and development in this sector.  This year’s competition is also supported suppliers La Rousse Foods, Findlater Wine & Spirit Group and Bragard, and Industry partners The Merrion Hotel Dublin, The Ivy London and Chapter One Restaurant.

The top prize for the 2011 Young Chef of the Year will be the opportunity of an all-expenses paid stage at The Ivy, London's favourite restaurant, under Executive Chef Gary Lee. Plus a one week stage at the award winning Michelin star Chapter One restaurant in Dublin under the tutelage of Euro-toques head chef Ross Lewis.

Among the overall prizes, each of the finalists will win a unique food experience with BIM and Failte Ireland. BIM will host a one day practical on-site introduction to the complex world of the seafood industry, visiting a seafood facility and discussing how fish is caught or harvested, bought, and sold, and what this all means to a chef. Including meetings with key industry personnel, processors and industry chef.  Failte Ireland will host a Food Tourism road trip - an educational 4 day food focused road trip taking in ‘hands-on’ cooking time  in top professional kitchens, visits to artisan food producers;  tastings, demos, unique meal experiences  and overnight stays with exemplary Irish food and hospitality operators.

For more info, including biogs of the young chefs, read here...

SUPERB RHONE WINES AT HAYFIELD EVENT

HAYFIELD MANOR HOTEL WINE SOCIETY

The Menu

Aperitif:  Cotes de Provence, Domaine Houchart 2010

Pan Fried Bantry Bay Scallops, Tomato and lime salsa, Beetroot Jelly, Caper and Sultana Dressing served with a Chateauneuf du Pape white, Domaine du Vieux Lazaret  2009. Famille Quiot.

Orchids Home Smoked Breast of Duck, Duck liver and Foie Gras Parfait, Fruit Bread, Orange Dressing served with a Cotes du Rhone  Villages Sablet, Chateau du Trignon 2007, Famille Quiot.

Seared Loin of Venison, Confit Yam, parsnip, Parsley..... served with a Chateauneuf du Pape, Cuvee Exceptionnelle, Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2006, Famille Quiot.

The Cheeses (Cooleeney Farmhouse, French Brie, Bandon Vale Vintage Cheddar, Cahill’s Farm Irish Porter Cheese) served with Chateau du Trignon Vacqueyras 2007, Famille Quiot.

Baked Cheese Cake with Warm Tropical Fruits...served with a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise Chateau du Trignon 2008.

Jean-Louis

This was the promising menu ahead of last night’s first Wine Dinner of the Hayfield Manor Wine Society . The promise was indeed delivered, thanks to the superb wines, introduced with wit and inside knowledge by Jean-Louis Smyl of the Famille Quiot, and thanks to the superb food prepared by Executive Chef Graeme Campbell and his team. And a big merci also to Sandra Biret-Crowley, the sommelier at the hotel, who worked so hard to bring the whole event together.

Yours truly with sommelier  Sandra

Started in the bar with a  big welcome from Joe and Marcus of KarwigWines and soon an introduction to Jean-Louis who told me the family has five vineyards in the general area. It was from the most southerly of these, Domaine Houchart, that the aperitif came from, a lively and fresh 2010 rosé.

More introductions followed as we moved from the bar to the Vine Wine Cellar and our tables and here Jean-Louis told us about their white Chateauneuf, made from Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Roussanne. Very supple and with quite a decent finish and a pleasing match with the excellent scallops.

Now we were on to the Smoked Breast of Duck, embellished by well chosen accompaniments and further enhanced by a splendid Cotes du Rhone Village from the highly regarded village of Sablet, set in the hills, and a big favourite of Jean-Louis.

And then came a high point of the evening. The Venison was superb and the wine match was made in heaven, well made in Domaine du Vieux Lazaret actually. This was a Cuvee Exceptionnelle, not made every year. They decided to make one in 2006 and we benefitted from the choice last evening. Inviting aromas, soft and round on the palate, no shortage of spice as you might expect with Grenache and Syrah to the fore, and a long finish.

The village of Vacqueyras is one of the eight crus of the southern Rhone and it was the family’s Chateau du Trignon that the 2007 came from and it proved a terrific match for the line-up of cheeses.

Beaumes de Venise, another small village, is just down the road and here our wine journey for the evening would finish.  Quite a decent red is produced here but we were treated to the well known AOC Muscat Beaumes de Venise, a sweet end to a sweet evening as it went down very well indeed with the Baked Cheese Cake.

BELGIAN BEER ACE AT THE CORNSTORE

AT THE CORNSTORE: HEINEKEN FOOD BEER MENU

CORNSTORE Menu

SELECTION PLATE OF STARTERS

Duck liver parfait with brioche, wild mushroom and brown bread dumpling, Goast’s cheese crostini with sundried tomato pesto, mini white bean and bacon soup

With Paulaner or Zywiec

MAINS

OVEN ROAST HAKE with lemon and basil mash, sautéed samphire, with cornstore red pepper relish (g)

With Heineken or Tiger

CHICKEN BREAST stuffed with chorizo on crushed baby potatoes, red onion and tomato salad and tarragon infused natural yoghurt

With Zywiec or Coors Light          

SLOW ROAST PORK BELLY with roast potatoes, sauerkraut, candied walnuts and a cider reduction (g)

With Tiger, Affligem or Zywiec

BRAISED LAMB SHANK with roast orange sweet potato, celeriac and green beans (g)

With Affligem or Zywiec

CANNELLONI OF BUTTER NUT SQUASH goats cheese, spinach and figs with sun dried tomato pesto,

rocket salad (v)

With Birra Moretti

DESSERT

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE west cork strawberries and short bread biscuit

With Paulaner or Affligem

Belgian Master Beer Sommelier Marc Stroobandt (right) breezed into the Cornstore earlier this week for the Heineken Beer Food Matching Menu. Informative, entertaining, Marc was the star of the evening, a very enjoyable one indeed.

Not only has Marc has been described as bringing 'rock and roll' to beer, but he has also been awarded some of the highest accolades in the global brewing industry!  He has been given an honorary knighthood by the Chevalerie du Fourquet des Brasseurs of the Confederation of Belgian Brewers and the title of Commander in the Order of De Roze Olifant (The Pink Elephant). You may read all about him here .

Met Marc and the Cornstore’s Mike Kelly at the counter where we sampled a couple of the beers on the list. Both were lagers, both reasonably well known: Tiger from Singapore and Birra Moretti from Italy.

Brewed since 1932, Tiger Beer is now available in more than 60 countries, winning over drinkers in major cities around the world. It is the winner of over 40 awards. Birra Moretti is the result of a production process that has remained almost unchanged since 1859. A special blend of high quality hops gives it a unique taste and fragrance, enhancing its perfectly balanced bitter taste. Must say, I had a slight preference for the Italian here.

As you can see from the menu (above), the beers served with the starter were the popular Polish lager Zywiec and the German Paulaner. From my point of view, the Polish beer was a bit unlucky in this match as the Paulaner won hands down. If you were out for a session and had just these two to choose from, then maybe the Zywiec might be better for the long run.

The starter selection was excellent and my main course, the Chicken, so well set off by the potatoes and a very very tasty salad, was top class. As it happened, Marc served us with the Birra Moretti for this course and it was a perfect choice. Indeed, the Moretti seems quite an all rounder with food, especially the lighter dishes.

What could match the dessert, the tempting White chocolate and strawberries? A small glass of Paulaner did the trick.

Speaking of tricks, Marc had a few, like tasting the “head” with a plastic spoon to get to know your beer, covering the top of your glass before sticking your nose in to get the aromas (saw Liberty Wine’s David Gleave MW doing the same a day later with Olive Oil). And one for photographers! If the head in your glass has more or less vanished, lift the bottle high and gently pour in a few spoonfuls and you’ll have a perfect head in an instant!

Thanks to Heineken and Marc and to all at the Cornstore, we had a lovely evening of food and beer, leaving quite a  few of us very impressed with the idea, including one French chef who had never considered the possibility of matching anything other than wine to food.

At the end Marc, also an advocate of beer with cheese, tried to win me over to Affligem, Belgium’s abbey beer. Brewed in the Flemish village, Opwijk, this top-fermenting beer is still brewed according to the original recipe. Not bad but, sorry Marc, my top two were the Moretti and the Paulaner. Different strokes for different folks!

Oh and do watch out for another beer/food evening at the Cornstore as Mike Kelly intends to put on an evening with all Irish beers. Should be a good one!

GREEN GREEN OLIVE OILS OF TUSCANY

OLIVE OIL MASTER CLASS

Three of Tuscany’s makers featured at an Olive Oil Master class in Ballymaloe Cookery School last Wednesday (9/11/11). Capezzana were represented by Beatrice Contini Bonacossi, Federico Giuntini Masseti was there for Fattoria Selvapiana while Liberty Wines’ David Gleave MW stood in for Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi.

Tuscany is more or less on the northern edge of the kind of climate in which the Olive tree grows and so is very susceptible to changes in the weather, especially the frost which has been known to more or less wipe out the olive rows.

Federico remembered the one in 1985 as a disaster. “The trees had be severely pruned to ground level and it took us all of ten years to get a good crop again.” There were a number of difficulties this year mainly due to the very cold weather in December and this has resulted in an oil that isn’t as green and spicy as normal.

Still, the arrival of the new season’s oils in Tuscany is a big event, according to Beatrice: “It is like a fete and the restaurants mark it by putting on special menus. It is very important for Tuscan cuisine and we always cook with good oil.”

We started our tasting with the multi-varietal Capezzana, harvested a little earlier than usual. Like the others, this was quite a bright green in colour, soft and fruity with a light spice and great delicacy, perfect for drizzling over freshly baked bread and using in dressing for salads.

Just two varietals in the Fontodi, the Frantoio accounting for 80%. Another lovely oil for salads or soups or for drizzling over pastas and salads. David Gleave remarked again that it wasn't quite as spicy as usual, lacking a little of what he termed austerity. I think most of us were maybe relieved that it wasn't as spicy as normal!

The Selvapiana was also neither as green nor as spicy as usual and, according to Federico, was part of a small crop after two bad winters in a row. But it was a lovely viscous liquid with enough of a spicy finish and he particularly recommended having it on toasted bread.

The lunch dishes that followed our “lessons” were a practical and tasty demonstration of the use of Olive Oil in cooking. We started with delicious Pumpkin and Faro Soup with a topping of Parmesan and the Selvapiana oil.

Then onto a light and lovely plateful of Roaringwater Bay scallops with lemon, chilli, coriander and the Capezzana oil. Needless to say, plenty of bread was used with these two dishes.

The main course was Slow Cooked (15 hours) shin of beef with Allegrini, thyme, garlic and black pepper served with braised winter greens and Golden Wonder Fontodi Mash.

Pretty full at that stage but still room for a delightful Raisin, Orange and Walnut biscotti served with a knockout Capezzana Vin Santo, a sweet wine that requires much patience and investment to bring to the table. But well worth the wait!

Oh, and by the way, it wasn’t the only wine on the table as we got to taste samples of Fontodi’s Meriggio 2010 (100% Sauvignon Blanc), Selvapiana’s Chianti Rufina 2009 and their flagship Vigneto Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007, then the 80% Sangiovese Capezzana Carmignano Villa de Capezzana 2007 (91 points on the Wine Advocate) and next the terrific Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pive 2008 (92 points in the Wine Advocate).

Quite a line-up of wines but the focus during the morning was very much on the oils. And it was hard to believe that just a week ago, the olives were still on the plant in beautiful Tuscany.

The wines and the oils are distributed in Ireland by Liberty Wines who have a new website which you may see here.

KERRYGOLD SPONSOR GOOD FOOD IRELAND AWARDS

Good Food Ireland Announces Kerrygold as Lead Sponsor

Kerrygold is the lead sponsor of the 5^th Good Food Ireland Conference and Awards which will take place in Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel on Tuesday November 22nd. The event will be attended by An Taoiseach, Enda Kenny and Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport, Leo Varadkar.

“Good Food Ireland has made a significant contribution in promoting Ireland as a destination for good food internationally . I would like to congratulate Margaret Jeffares and the membership of Good Food Ireland for the economic benefit they generate through their businesses’ every day, with their local food philosophy”, says An Taoiseach Enda Kenny T.D.

The international success of Kerrygold has enhanced Ireland’s reputation as a first class food producer. Good Food Ireland’s Conference “Internationalising Irishness” and Awards Ceremony will highlight the value of Ireland’s food as an economic driver for tourism opportunity.

“The Kerrygold brand now in its 50^th year has a natural affinity with Good Food Ireland’s aims and ambitions. It has developed huge recognition and built on Ireland’s well founded reputation for natural, pure and traceable agriculture products” says Margaret Jeffares, Managing Director, Good Food Ireland.

Pictured at the announcement  8th November 2011 were Margaret Jeffers, MD Good Food Ireland,  with, from left, Taoiseach Enda Kenny, Kevin Lane CEO and Vincent Buckley, Chairman, the Irish Dairy Board. Pic Iain White/Mac Innes Photography

“Good Food Ireland’s emphasis on promoting high quality Irish food in tourism, both domestically and internationally is an ideal fit and Kerrygold is delighted to sponsor Ireland’s premier food tourism brand” said John Jordan, the Irish Dairy Board’s Customer Foods Marketing Director at the launch.

Amuse Bouche

She presented the magnificent orange carp on a large celadon plate....She shaped the spinach into curly tidal waves all around the lip of the giant plate. She decorated the fish and capped the spinach waves with bits of candied ginger; they shimmered like diamonds....I squealed with joy as I collected the sweet gems and saved them..for later, when I would relish them as a late snack with fruit and tea. From Revenge of the Mooncake Vixen by Marilyn Chin.

Ravishing roasts   Maybe colder weather has you longing for a traditional Sunday roast, or perhaps you’re already thinking about next month’s Roast turkey. We have plenty of foolproof Roastswhatever the occasion! What’s your favourite roast?

Get roasting Roast chicken Roast beef Roast potatoes Roast pork All Roasts

SAUVIGNON BLANC: KIWIS OUST CHILE CHAMP

M & S SAUVIGNON BLANC, LIMARI VALLEY (CHILE) 2008, 13.5%, €13.99


I chased this one down because it was a Decanter Regional Trophy winner for a Sauvignon Blanc at less than ten pound sterling.

Colour was very pale and the nose was herby and grassy, green fruit. On the palate, there is a good balance of fruit and acidity. It is tingly and refreshing, savoury too, with a fine dry finish.

Other Regional Trophy winners I found to be quite impressive but there was a tinge of disappointment here. Nothing at all wrong with the M & S offering, I hasten to add, but it was unlucky to follow an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc, a 2010 Neudorf from the Nelson area.

The Chilean might have won on price – the NZ comes in around the twenty euro mark – but was otherwise outclassed. By the way, the Neudorf didn't figure at all in the Decanter list from New Zealand.

The New Zealand edge is further underlined by the fact that Decanter awarded their two international Sauvignon Blanc trophies to the Kiwis. Waimea Estates (Nelson), also available at M&S, took the honours in the under £10.00 category while Vavasour (Awatere Valley, Marlborough) won the over £10.00 trophy.

A nod is as good as a wink. And I've given you three!

LANGUEDOC GEM

COSTIERES DE NIMES NOBLE GRESS 2005, 14%, €6.90 AT VIGNERONS DES VAUVERT (14/6/11)


This is one of the darkest reds you’ll see, close to black, and the nose is soon filled with very inviting aromas of dark fruit. The palate reflects the generosity of the Grenache (15%) and the elegance of the Syrah (80%), a match, that also includes a little Mourvèdre, well made by the winemakers in Vauvert, a small town on the edge of the Camargue and south east of the ancients city of Nimes. The vines, according to the back label, are also pretty old.

Liked this after a tasting in the co-op outlet in Vauvert during a tour of the southern part of the appellation and I still like it. Indeed, I’m a little sad as this is the last bottle (No. 545) from that particular trip. By the way, 545 is the number of the bottle, not the number of bottles I brought back!

It is a really smooth costumer, full of flavour, spice enough and, thanks to the work of the now modest tannins, really well balanced. Quite a few stores sell Costières des Nimes in Ireland but not this wine as far as I know. But do keep an eye out for it if you find yourself in the Languedoc.

As regards the wine’s name this is about the best explanation I found: “The NOBLE GRESS comes from the best vineyards, working on plots recognized long ago by our former Noble as the quality of their grapes.”