BELGIAN BEER ACE AT THE CORNSTORE

AT THE CORNSTORE: HEINEKEN FOOD BEER MENU

CORNSTORE Menu

SELECTION PLATE OF STARTERS

Duck liver parfait with brioche, wild mushroom and brown bread dumpling, Goast’s cheese crostini with sundried tomato pesto, mini white bean and bacon soup

With Paulaner or Zywiec

MAINS

OVEN ROAST HAKE with lemon and basil mash, sautéed samphire, with cornstore red pepper relish (g)

With Heineken or Tiger

CHICKEN BREAST stuffed with chorizo on crushed baby potatoes, red onion and tomato salad and tarragon infused natural yoghurt

With Zywiec or Coors Light          

SLOW ROAST PORK BELLY with roast potatoes, sauerkraut, candied walnuts and a cider reduction (g)

With Tiger, Affligem or Zywiec

BRAISED LAMB SHANK with roast orange sweet potato, celeriac and green beans (g)

With Affligem or Zywiec

CANNELLONI OF BUTTER NUT SQUASH goats cheese, spinach and figs with sun dried tomato pesto,

rocket salad (v)

With Birra Moretti

DESSERT

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE west cork strawberries and short bread biscuit

With Paulaner or Affligem

Belgian Master Beer Sommelier Marc Stroobandt (right) breezed into the Cornstore earlier this week for the Heineken Beer Food Matching Menu. Informative, entertaining, Marc was the star of the evening, a very enjoyable one indeed.

Not only has Marc has been described as bringing 'rock and roll' to beer, but he has also been awarded some of the highest accolades in the global brewing industry!  He has been given an honorary knighthood by the Chevalerie du Fourquet des Brasseurs of the Confederation of Belgian Brewers and the title of Commander in the Order of De Roze Olifant (The Pink Elephant). You may read all about him here .

Met Marc and the Cornstore’s Mike Kelly at the counter where we sampled a couple of the beers on the list. Both were lagers, both reasonably well known: Tiger from Singapore and Birra Moretti from Italy.

Brewed since 1932, Tiger Beer is now available in more than 60 countries, winning over drinkers in major cities around the world. It is the winner of over 40 awards. Birra Moretti is the result of a production process that has remained almost unchanged since 1859. A special blend of high quality hops gives it a unique taste and fragrance, enhancing its perfectly balanced bitter taste. Must say, I had a slight preference for the Italian here.

As you can see from the menu (above), the beers served with the starter were the popular Polish lager Zywiec and the German Paulaner. From my point of view, the Polish beer was a bit unlucky in this match as the Paulaner won hands down. If you were out for a session and had just these two to choose from, then maybe the Zywiec might be better for the long run.

The starter selection was excellent and my main course, the Chicken, so well set off by the potatoes and a very very tasty salad, was top class. As it happened, Marc served us with the Birra Moretti for this course and it was a perfect choice. Indeed, the Moretti seems quite an all rounder with food, especially the lighter dishes.

What could match the dessert, the tempting White chocolate and strawberries? A small glass of Paulaner did the trick.

Speaking of tricks, Marc had a few, like tasting the “head” with a plastic spoon to get to know your beer, covering the top of your glass before sticking your nose in to get the aromas (saw Liberty Wine’s David Gleave MW doing the same a day later with Olive Oil). And one for photographers! If the head in your glass has more or less vanished, lift the bottle high and gently pour in a few spoonfuls and you’ll have a perfect head in an instant!

Thanks to Heineken and Marc and to all at the Cornstore, we had a lovely evening of food and beer, leaving quite a  few of us very impressed with the idea, including one French chef who had never considered the possibility of matching anything other than wine to food.

At the end Marc, also an advocate of beer with cheese, tried to win me over to Affligem, Belgium’s abbey beer. Brewed in the Flemish village, Opwijk, this top-fermenting beer is still brewed according to the original recipe. Not bad but, sorry Marc, my top two were the Moretti and the Paulaner. Different strokes for different folks!

Oh and do watch out for another beer/food evening at the Cornstore as Mike Kelly intends to put on an evening with all Irish beers. Should be a good one!

GREEN GREEN OLIVE OILS OF TUSCANY

OLIVE OIL MASTER CLASS

Three of Tuscany’s makers featured at an Olive Oil Master class in Ballymaloe Cookery School last Wednesday (9/11/11). Capezzana were represented by Beatrice Contini Bonacossi, Federico Giuntini Masseti was there for Fattoria Selvapiana while Liberty Wines’ David Gleave MW stood in for Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi.

Tuscany is more or less on the northern edge of the kind of climate in which the Olive tree grows and so is very susceptible to changes in the weather, especially the frost which has been known to more or less wipe out the olive rows.

Federico remembered the one in 1985 as a disaster. “The trees had be severely pruned to ground level and it took us all of ten years to get a good crop again.” There were a number of difficulties this year mainly due to the very cold weather in December and this has resulted in an oil that isn’t as green and spicy as normal.

Still, the arrival of the new season’s oils in Tuscany is a big event, according to Beatrice: “It is like a fete and the restaurants mark it by putting on special menus. It is very important for Tuscan cuisine and we always cook with good oil.”

We started our tasting with the multi-varietal Capezzana, harvested a little earlier than usual. Like the others, this was quite a bright green in colour, soft and fruity with a light spice and great delicacy, perfect for drizzling over freshly baked bread and using in dressing for salads.

Just two varietals in the Fontodi, the Frantoio accounting for 80%. Another lovely oil for salads or soups or for drizzling over pastas and salads. David Gleave remarked again that it wasn't quite as spicy as usual, lacking a little of what he termed austerity. I think most of us were maybe relieved that it wasn't as spicy as normal!

The Selvapiana was also neither as green nor as spicy as usual and, according to Federico, was part of a small crop after two bad winters in a row. But it was a lovely viscous liquid with enough of a spicy finish and he particularly recommended having it on toasted bread.

The lunch dishes that followed our “lessons” were a practical and tasty demonstration of the use of Olive Oil in cooking. We started with delicious Pumpkin and Faro Soup with a topping of Parmesan and the Selvapiana oil.

Then onto a light and lovely plateful of Roaringwater Bay scallops with lemon, chilli, coriander and the Capezzana oil. Needless to say, plenty of bread was used with these two dishes.

The main course was Slow Cooked (15 hours) shin of beef with Allegrini, thyme, garlic and black pepper served with braised winter greens and Golden Wonder Fontodi Mash.

Pretty full at that stage but still room for a delightful Raisin, Orange and Walnut biscotti served with a knockout Capezzana Vin Santo, a sweet wine that requires much patience and investment to bring to the table. But well worth the wait!

Oh, and by the way, it wasn’t the only wine on the table as we got to taste samples of Fontodi’s Meriggio 2010 (100% Sauvignon Blanc), Selvapiana’s Chianti Rufina 2009 and their flagship Vigneto Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007, then the 80% Sangiovese Capezzana Carmignano Villa de Capezzana 2007 (91 points on the Wine Advocate) and next the terrific Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pive 2008 (92 points in the Wine Advocate).

Quite a line-up of wines but the focus during the morning was very much on the oils. And it was hard to believe that just a week ago, the olives were still on the plant in beautiful Tuscany.

The wines and the oils are distributed in Ireland by Liberty Wines who have a new website which you may see here.

KERRYGOLD SPONSOR GOOD FOOD IRELAND AWARDS

Good Food Ireland Announces Kerrygold as Lead Sponsor

Kerrygold is the lead sponsor of the 5^th Good Food Ireland Conference and Awards which will take place in Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel on Tuesday November 22nd. The event will be attended by An Taoiseach, Enda Kenny and Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport, Leo Varadkar.

“Good Food Ireland has made a significant contribution in promoting Ireland as a destination for good food internationally . I would like to congratulate Margaret Jeffares and the membership of Good Food Ireland for the economic benefit they generate through their businesses’ every day, with their local food philosophy”, says An Taoiseach Enda Kenny T.D.

The international success of Kerrygold has enhanced Ireland’s reputation as a first class food producer. Good Food Ireland’s Conference “Internationalising Irishness” and Awards Ceremony will highlight the value of Ireland’s food as an economic driver for tourism opportunity.

“The Kerrygold brand now in its 50^th year has a natural affinity with Good Food Ireland’s aims and ambitions. It has developed huge recognition and built on Ireland’s well founded reputation for natural, pure and traceable agriculture products” says Margaret Jeffares, Managing Director, Good Food Ireland.

Pictured at the announcement  8th November 2011 were Margaret Jeffers, MD Good Food Ireland,  with, from left, Taoiseach Enda Kenny, Kevin Lane CEO and Vincent Buckley, Chairman, the Irish Dairy Board. Pic Iain White/Mac Innes Photography

“Good Food Ireland’s emphasis on promoting high quality Irish food in tourism, both domestically and internationally is an ideal fit and Kerrygold is delighted to sponsor Ireland’s premier food tourism brand” said John Jordan, the Irish Dairy Board’s Customer Foods Marketing Director at the launch.

Amuse Bouche

She presented the magnificent orange carp on a large celadon plate....She shaped the spinach into curly tidal waves all around the lip of the giant plate. She decorated the fish and capped the spinach waves with bits of candied ginger; they shimmered like diamonds....I squealed with joy as I collected the sweet gems and saved them..for later, when I would relish them as a late snack with fruit and tea. From Revenge of the Mooncake Vixen by Marilyn Chin.

Ravishing roasts   Maybe colder weather has you longing for a traditional Sunday roast, or perhaps you’re already thinking about next month’s Roast turkey. We have plenty of foolproof Roastswhatever the occasion! What’s your favourite roast?

Get roasting Roast chicken Roast beef Roast potatoes Roast pork All Roasts

SAUVIGNON BLANC: KIWIS OUST CHILE CHAMP

M & S SAUVIGNON BLANC, LIMARI VALLEY (CHILE) 2008, 13.5%, €13.99


I chased this one down because it was a Decanter Regional Trophy winner for a Sauvignon Blanc at less than ten pound sterling.

Colour was very pale and the nose was herby and grassy, green fruit. On the palate, there is a good balance of fruit and acidity. It is tingly and refreshing, savoury too, with a fine dry finish.

Other Regional Trophy winners I found to be quite impressive but there was a tinge of disappointment here. Nothing at all wrong with the M & S offering, I hasten to add, but it was unlucky to follow an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc, a 2010 Neudorf from the Nelson area.

The Chilean might have won on price – the NZ comes in around the twenty euro mark – but was otherwise outclassed. By the way, the Neudorf didn't figure at all in the Decanter list from New Zealand.

The New Zealand edge is further underlined by the fact that Decanter awarded their two international Sauvignon Blanc trophies to the Kiwis. Waimea Estates (Nelson), also available at M&S, took the honours in the under £10.00 category while Vavasour (Awatere Valley, Marlborough) won the over £10.00 trophy.

A nod is as good as a wink. And I've given you three!

LANGUEDOC GEM

COSTIERES DE NIMES NOBLE GRESS 2005, 14%, €6.90 AT VIGNERONS DES VAUVERT (14/6/11)


This is one of the darkest reds you’ll see, close to black, and the nose is soon filled with very inviting aromas of dark fruit. The palate reflects the generosity of the Grenache (15%) and the elegance of the Syrah (80%), a match, that also includes a little Mourvèdre, well made by the winemakers in Vauvert, a small town on the edge of the Camargue and south east of the ancients city of Nimes. The vines, according to the back label, are also pretty old.

Liked this after a tasting in the co-op outlet in Vauvert during a tour of the southern part of the appellation and I still like it. Indeed, I’m a little sad as this is the last bottle (No. 545) from that particular trip. By the way, 545 is the number of the bottle, not the number of bottles I brought back!

It is a really smooth costumer, full of flavour, spice enough and, thanks to the work of the now modest tannins, really well balanced. Quite a few stores sell Costières des Nimes in Ireland but not this wine as far as I know. But do keep an eye out for it if you find yourself in the Languedoc.

As regards the wine’s name this is about the best explanation I found: “The NOBLE GRESS comes from the best vineyards, working on plots recognized long ago by our former Noble as the quality of their grapes.”

RICHY'S ROCKS ON A SATURDAY NIGHT

RICHY’S BISTRO in Clonakilty

It’s bright. It’s lively. It is Richy’s Bar and Bistro on a Saturday night, great food and a great buzz.

Always something of a buzz here in this cafe/bistro. The cafe is a favourite daytime venue for locals and visitors alike. It is part of town life with its children’s cooking classes and coffee mornings for charity.

The food is local too and top notch and very much in demand. On our visit, quite a few of the specials had already been snapped up but we did have a fine meal with courteous service and no shortage of friendliness or efficiency.

My starter was a gem: Clonakilty Black Pudding Samosas, yoghurt, cumin dipping sauce, cucumber and chilli salad (7.95). Hadn’t come across this variation before and it got me off to a terrific start.

The mains was hardly as inventive but was just as well cooked and just as satisfying: Roast Staunton’s pork rack, Spiced colcannon mash, caramelized apple, roast root veg, sage and apples jus (€ 22.50).

The dessert was a well made classic: Sticky toffee pudding with Mauritian vanilla ice-cream, butterscotch sauce (€ 6.95).

All these came from the A La Carte but they also do other menus, a new tapas Menu on Friday nights, a €57.00 Menu for Two including a bottle of wine, 2 and 3 course set menus, a Children’s Menu and more. Check them and the drinks list out here.

Talking of drinks, I spotted that one of reserve wines had been reduced from 35 to 28 euro so I’d said I’d have some of that. I’m glad I did as the French Domaine la Colombette Pinot Noir 2010 was an excellent wine and really went well with the pork.

So good food, good drink and lively atmosphere. Highly enjoyable. Highly recommended.

Gavi: a wine off freshness and simplicity

BRICCO DEI GUAZZI GAVI DOCG 2010, 12.5%, €11.99 Red Nose Wines. 

This is bright in the glass with a light honey colour. Micro bubbles cling to the glass. The nose is delicately aromatic. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity (more apple than melon for me) with a whisk of acidity.

This dry white is made in Piemonte, in the north west of Italy, and the grape, apparently native to the area, is 100% cortese.

Quality of Gavi can vary a bit but most are cool, clean and crisp. That excellent book Vino Italia says: "Gavi is usually a wine of freshness and simplicity, which may not be fashionable but is often pleasurable.”

And that pretty much sums up this lively Red Nose offering, another alternative to add to your white wine rota. Enjoy with pasta, salads, fish and shellfish.

CORK RESTAURANT GROUP GO GOURMET

CORK RESTAURANT GROUP GO GOURMET

The Cork Restaurant Marketing Group has announced a Gourmet Weekend for next weekend, something of an upgrade on the previous promotion Dine in Cork Week.

But the hard–working group are not stopping at that and last Thursday, in the Rising Tide, they announced the launch of Dine Out In Cork, an annual magazine to highlight the more than twenty restaurants that have banded together in the project..

It is designed to promote Cork as not only the Food Capital of Ireland but also as a food destination from abroad and will have a wide circulation, including hotels and tourist offices.

Spokesperson Sylvia Meulmeester told me there are plans for a Cork International Gourmet Week next year, following the success of the Cork Gourmet Trail. The proposed week-long event would incorporate the promotion of Cork city as a dining experience.

The magazine is being finalised at present and is due to be published on December 1^st. Before that Sylvia will be working on the imminent Gourmet Weekend. Details and recipes (and competitions for tickets) will be published here. 

The Rising Tide’s Sandra Murphy (right) proved a gracious host. The apprentice star was in tip top form and so too was the kitchen that supplied us with tray after tray of really classy canapés.

Sandra will be hosting a Hired or Fired Dinner Party (7.00pm) this coming Monday (7th) and that should be fun, and good value too: three courses, a glass of wine and the Apprentice on the telly ( from 9.00pm), and a hostess with the inside track, all for €20.00.

HEINEKEN BEER FOOD MATCHING EVENTS

Beer and Food Matching

Heineken Ireland is bringing beer and food tasting to top restaurants in Dublin and Cork. Ely Bar and Brasserie, Siam Thai and Roly’s Bistro in Dublin and The Cornstore in Cork will give food lovers and beer fans the chance to come together and sample the natural pairing of beer and food with beers from around the world like Birra Moretti, Paulaner and Tiger.

At each event a beer and food expert will be on hand to take you through the tasting of beers from around the world and how they match with the food on a specially designed menu.

So whether you’re a beer lover or have never even thought of drinking a beer with your food, there is a beer for you that will add a new dimension to the food you know and love.

Cork Events

The Cornstore in Cornmarket Street, Cork

Three course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95

Tuesday 8^th November at 7.30pm – 021 4274777

Dublin Events

Roly’s Bistro in Ballsbridge, Dublin

Tapas style menu with beer tasting for €29.95

Monday 7^th November at 7.30pm – 01 6682611

Ely Bar & Brasserie in the IFSC, Dublin

Wednesday 9^th November at 6.00pm – 01 6720010

Two course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95

Siam Thai in Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin

Two course set menu for €27.50

Dublin on Tuesday 8^th November at 7.30pm – 01 2964500

Contact your nearest restaurant to book for these events.

SWEET ANTIDOTE TO BUDGET BLUES

 Wine Australia’s Stickie (Sweet Wine) Tastings

Tuesday 6th December: Hayfield Manor Hotel, Cork
Wednesday 7th December: Ely Bar and Brassiere, IFSC, Custom House Quay, D1


With a hell of a lot of acidity expected in next month's budget,  Wine Australia's Johnny McDonnell (right in pic) reckons he has just the thing to balance it up!

"A touch of sweetness is in order to, as Mary P would say, make the medicine go down.

So we are hosting two delicious sweet wine tastings in December, on the 6th in Cork and Dublin on the 7th.

Affectionately known as “Stickies” Down-under, the story of the Australian wine world is steeped in fortified and dessert wine making. Often tricky to sell, the one time that they do find favour is around Christmas.

So perfect timing for you to join us and try a range of these wines from Australia.

Joining us to lead the presentation duties is Chris Pfeiffer (left in pic above), owner and wine maker of Pfeiffer Wines in the Rutherglen. A regular visitor to Ireland with a huge passion for these wine styles, Chris is the ideal person to take us on this sweet journey.

So whether you have a sweet tooth, are looking for a different present for the wine lover in your life or on occasion you’d just prefer to pour (instead of make) your dessert, this is the tasting for you."

The cost is €20 per person, which includes the tasting and tasty nibbles afterwards.  Only 30 places at each event so please book your passage early.
For the Cork tasting, book direct with Wine Australia on ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077 264.
For the Dublin event, direct with ely Bar and Brasserie on wineclub@elywinebar.com and on 01 676 8986.
Each tasting begins at 7pm.
If you require any further information please contact John at Wine Australia on
Ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077 264.

NEUDORF WINEMAKER DINNER AT STAR ANISE

NEUDORF WINEMAKER DINNER AT STAR ANISE

At Star Anise last night with Judy and Tim Finn (right).

“We were pioneers,“ declared Judy Finn from the Nelson winery Neudorf. “There was no wine industry in New Zealand at the time we started; we didn't know what would work.”

Judy and husband Tim were in Star Anise last night to introduce us to their stunning wines from the South Island . They started there in 1978 and, after 34 years, they still learn from each vintage and still enjoy the chase. You may read more about the vineyard and its people here. 

One of their top aims is to make wine of some substance. They believe that virtually anyone can make a big fruity wine, like making pop music. Drink it and forget it. But the Finns are always working not just for flavour but to give some more interesting layers that will draw you back for more.

They call it “the second glass appeal” and they certainly got that right in the first wine we tasted. Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is a terrific example of their work, closer to the Loire than the New World, powerful and smooth, fruity, herby and memorable.

It was also a terrific match with our starter: Crispy Ham Hock with Beetroot Relish and Mustard Cress, itself maintaining the high standard already set by the Amuse Bouche of Cream of Cep and Truffle Oil.

And the Star Anise kitchen again hit the high spots with the next dish: Pan-Fried Halibut with Cockles and Samphire, Lemon & Herb Beurre Blanc. Neudorf Chardonnay 2009 was an excellent match.

The vineyard’s Chardonnay has been much praised over the past twenty years and indeed cool climate Chardonnays, such as this, have been credited with the grape’s revival after the excesses that turned many people off.

Complete and harmonious are the descriptors you’ll find on the site. Judy said that Chardonnay wines “reflect the winemaker”. Tim was rather modest about accepting the accolade but it is a lovely refreshing style and “you feel like another one”. That second glass appeal again!

Judy loves her Pinot Noir and we had the Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir 2008, a beautiful subtle and elegant wine. While Judy was delighted that it had just received 92 points from the Wine Advocate, that didn't change her pretty low and earthily expressed opinion of wine guru Robert Parker.

Again, Star Anise had the match for the Pinot: Braised Chuck of Beef with Thyme, Parsley Puree, Horseradish Mash and Glazed Baby Carrots. The beef was so so tender and the whole plate was a perfect combination of flavours. Gorgeous.

It was a horrible day in Cork with the rain coming down but we did have a lovely evening thanks to Star Anise and Neudorf, a great combination. Great too to chat with John and Julie from Dillon’s in Timoleague and with Richie (and his bay moustache) from Blair’s Inn. And a big thanks too to Viginie and her team in the restaurant and to Conor and James Nicholson Wines (who distribute the Neudorf range in Ireland).