Amuse Bouche

She presented the magnificent orange carp on a large celadon plate....She shaped the spinach into curly tidal waves all around the lip of the giant plate. She decorated the fish and capped the spinach waves with bits of candied ginger; they shimmered like diamonds....I squealed with joy as I collected the sweet gems and saved them..for later, when I would relish them as a late snack with fruit and tea. From Revenge of the Mooncake Vixen by Marilyn Chin.

Ravishing roasts   Maybe colder weather has you longing for a traditional Sunday roast, or perhaps you’re already thinking about next month’s Roast turkey. We have plenty of foolproof Roastswhatever the occasion! What’s your favourite roast?

Get roasting Roast chicken Roast beef Roast potatoes Roast pork All Roasts

SAUVIGNON BLANC: KIWIS OUST CHILE CHAMP

M & S SAUVIGNON BLANC, LIMARI VALLEY (CHILE) 2008, 13.5%, €13.99


I chased this one down because it was a Decanter Regional Trophy winner for a Sauvignon Blanc at less than ten pound sterling.

Colour was very pale and the nose was herby and grassy, green fruit. On the palate, there is a good balance of fruit and acidity. It is tingly and refreshing, savoury too, with a fine dry finish.

Other Regional Trophy winners I found to be quite impressive but there was a tinge of disappointment here. Nothing at all wrong with the M & S offering, I hasten to add, but it was unlucky to follow an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc, a 2010 Neudorf from the Nelson area.

The Chilean might have won on price – the NZ comes in around the twenty euro mark – but was otherwise outclassed. By the way, the Neudorf didn't figure at all in the Decanter list from New Zealand.

The New Zealand edge is further underlined by the fact that Decanter awarded their two international Sauvignon Blanc trophies to the Kiwis. Waimea Estates (Nelson), also available at M&S, took the honours in the under £10.00 category while Vavasour (Awatere Valley, Marlborough) won the over £10.00 trophy.

A nod is as good as a wink. And I've given you three!

LANGUEDOC GEM

COSTIERES DE NIMES NOBLE GRESS 2005, 14%, €6.90 AT VIGNERONS DES VAUVERT (14/6/11)


This is one of the darkest reds you’ll see, close to black, and the nose is soon filled with very inviting aromas of dark fruit. The palate reflects the generosity of the Grenache (15%) and the elegance of the Syrah (80%), a match, that also includes a little Mourvèdre, well made by the winemakers in Vauvert, a small town on the edge of the Camargue and south east of the ancients city of Nimes. The vines, according to the back label, are also pretty old.

Liked this after a tasting in the co-op outlet in Vauvert during a tour of the southern part of the appellation and I still like it. Indeed, I’m a little sad as this is the last bottle (No. 545) from that particular trip. By the way, 545 is the number of the bottle, not the number of bottles I brought back!

It is a really smooth costumer, full of flavour, spice enough and, thanks to the work of the now modest tannins, really well balanced. Quite a few stores sell Costières des Nimes in Ireland but not this wine as far as I know. But do keep an eye out for it if you find yourself in the Languedoc.

As regards the wine’s name this is about the best explanation I found: “The NOBLE GRESS comes from the best vineyards, working on plots recognized long ago by our former Noble as the quality of their grapes.”

RICHY'S ROCKS ON A SATURDAY NIGHT

RICHY’S BISTRO in Clonakilty

It’s bright. It’s lively. It is Richy’s Bar and Bistro on a Saturday night, great food and a great buzz.

Always something of a buzz here in this cafe/bistro. The cafe is a favourite daytime venue for locals and visitors alike. It is part of town life with its children’s cooking classes and coffee mornings for charity.

The food is local too and top notch and very much in demand. On our visit, quite a few of the specials had already been snapped up but we did have a fine meal with courteous service and no shortage of friendliness or efficiency.

My starter was a gem: Clonakilty Black Pudding Samosas, yoghurt, cumin dipping sauce, cucumber and chilli salad (7.95). Hadn’t come across this variation before and it got me off to a terrific start.

The mains was hardly as inventive but was just as well cooked and just as satisfying: Roast Staunton’s pork rack, Spiced colcannon mash, caramelized apple, roast root veg, sage and apples jus (€ 22.50).

The dessert was a well made classic: Sticky toffee pudding with Mauritian vanilla ice-cream, butterscotch sauce (€ 6.95).

All these came from the A La Carte but they also do other menus, a new tapas Menu on Friday nights, a €57.00 Menu for Two including a bottle of wine, 2 and 3 course set menus, a Children’s Menu and more. Check them and the drinks list out here.

Talking of drinks, I spotted that one of reserve wines had been reduced from 35 to 28 euro so I’d said I’d have some of that. I’m glad I did as the French Domaine la Colombette Pinot Noir 2010 was an excellent wine and really went well with the pork.

So good food, good drink and lively atmosphere. Highly enjoyable. Highly recommended.

Gavi: a wine off freshness and simplicity

BRICCO DEI GUAZZI GAVI DOCG 2010, 12.5%, €11.99 Red Nose Wines. 

This is bright in the glass with a light honey colour. Micro bubbles cling to the glass. The nose is delicately aromatic. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity (more apple than melon for me) with a whisk of acidity.

This dry white is made in Piemonte, in the north west of Italy, and the grape, apparently native to the area, is 100% cortese.

Quality of Gavi can vary a bit but most are cool, clean and crisp. That excellent book Vino Italia says: "Gavi is usually a wine of freshness and simplicity, which may not be fashionable but is often pleasurable.”

And that pretty much sums up this lively Red Nose offering, another alternative to add to your white wine rota. Enjoy with pasta, salads, fish and shellfish.

CORK RESTAURANT GROUP GO GOURMET

CORK RESTAURANT GROUP GO GOURMET

The Cork Restaurant Marketing Group has announced a Gourmet Weekend for next weekend, something of an upgrade on the previous promotion Dine in Cork Week.

But the hard–working group are not stopping at that and last Thursday, in the Rising Tide, they announced the launch of Dine Out In Cork, an annual magazine to highlight the more than twenty restaurants that have banded together in the project..

It is designed to promote Cork as not only the Food Capital of Ireland but also as a food destination from abroad and will have a wide circulation, including hotels and tourist offices.

Spokesperson Sylvia Meulmeester told me there are plans for a Cork International Gourmet Week next year, following the success of the Cork Gourmet Trail. The proposed week-long event would incorporate the promotion of Cork city as a dining experience.

The magazine is being finalised at present and is due to be published on December 1^st. Before that Sylvia will be working on the imminent Gourmet Weekend. Details and recipes (and competitions for tickets) will be published here. 

The Rising Tide’s Sandra Murphy (right) proved a gracious host. The apprentice star was in tip top form and so too was the kitchen that supplied us with tray after tray of really classy canapés.

Sandra will be hosting a Hired or Fired Dinner Party (7.00pm) this coming Monday (7th) and that should be fun, and good value too: three courses, a glass of wine and the Apprentice on the telly ( from 9.00pm), and a hostess with the inside track, all for €20.00.

HEINEKEN BEER FOOD MATCHING EVENTS

Beer and Food Matching

Heineken Ireland is bringing beer and food tasting to top restaurants in Dublin and Cork. Ely Bar and Brasserie, Siam Thai and Roly’s Bistro in Dublin and The Cornstore in Cork will give food lovers and beer fans the chance to come together and sample the natural pairing of beer and food with beers from around the world like Birra Moretti, Paulaner and Tiger.

At each event a beer and food expert will be on hand to take you through the tasting of beers from around the world and how they match with the food on a specially designed menu.

So whether you’re a beer lover or have never even thought of drinking a beer with your food, there is a beer for you that will add a new dimension to the food you know and love.

Cork Events

The Cornstore in Cornmarket Street, Cork

Three course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95

Tuesday 8^th November at 7.30pm – 021 4274777

Dublin Events

Roly’s Bistro in Ballsbridge, Dublin

Tapas style menu with beer tasting for €29.95

Monday 7^th November at 7.30pm – 01 6682611

Ely Bar & Brasserie in the IFSC, Dublin

Wednesday 9^th November at 6.00pm – 01 6720010

Two course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95

Siam Thai in Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin

Two course set menu for €27.50

Dublin on Tuesday 8^th November at 7.30pm – 01 2964500

Contact your nearest restaurant to book for these events.

SWEET ANTIDOTE TO BUDGET BLUES

 Wine Australia’s Stickie (Sweet Wine) Tastings

Tuesday 6th December: Hayfield Manor Hotel, Cork
Wednesday 7th December: Ely Bar and Brassiere, IFSC, Custom House Quay, D1


With a hell of a lot of acidity expected in next month's budget,  Wine Australia's Johnny McDonnell (right in pic) reckons he has just the thing to balance it up!

"A touch of sweetness is in order to, as Mary P would say, make the medicine go down.

So we are hosting two delicious sweet wine tastings in December, on the 6th in Cork and Dublin on the 7th.

Affectionately known as “Stickies” Down-under, the story of the Australian wine world is steeped in fortified and dessert wine making. Often tricky to sell, the one time that they do find favour is around Christmas.

So perfect timing for you to join us and try a range of these wines from Australia.

Joining us to lead the presentation duties is Chris Pfeiffer (left in pic above), owner and wine maker of Pfeiffer Wines in the Rutherglen. A regular visitor to Ireland with a huge passion for these wine styles, Chris is the ideal person to take us on this sweet journey.

So whether you have a sweet tooth, are looking for a different present for the wine lover in your life or on occasion you’d just prefer to pour (instead of make) your dessert, this is the tasting for you."

The cost is €20 per person, which includes the tasting and tasty nibbles afterwards.  Only 30 places at each event so please book your passage early.
For the Cork tasting, book direct with Wine Australia on ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077 264.
For the Dublin event, direct with ely Bar and Brasserie on wineclub@elywinebar.com and on 01 676 8986.
Each tasting begins at 7pm.
If you require any further information please contact John at Wine Australia on
Ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077 264.

NEUDORF WINEMAKER DINNER AT STAR ANISE

NEUDORF WINEMAKER DINNER AT STAR ANISE

At Star Anise last night with Judy and Tim Finn (right).

“We were pioneers,“ declared Judy Finn from the Nelson winery Neudorf. “There was no wine industry in New Zealand at the time we started; we didn't know what would work.”

Judy and husband Tim were in Star Anise last night to introduce us to their stunning wines from the South Island . They started there in 1978 and, after 34 years, they still learn from each vintage and still enjoy the chase. You may read more about the vineyard and its people here. 

One of their top aims is to make wine of some substance. They believe that virtually anyone can make a big fruity wine, like making pop music. Drink it and forget it. But the Finns are always working not just for flavour but to give some more interesting layers that will draw you back for more.

They call it “the second glass appeal” and they certainly got that right in the first wine we tasted. Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is a terrific example of their work, closer to the Loire than the New World, powerful and smooth, fruity, herby and memorable.

It was also a terrific match with our starter: Crispy Ham Hock with Beetroot Relish and Mustard Cress, itself maintaining the high standard already set by the Amuse Bouche of Cream of Cep and Truffle Oil.

And the Star Anise kitchen again hit the high spots with the next dish: Pan-Fried Halibut with Cockles and Samphire, Lemon & Herb Beurre Blanc. Neudorf Chardonnay 2009 was an excellent match.

The vineyard’s Chardonnay has been much praised over the past twenty years and indeed cool climate Chardonnays, such as this, have been credited with the grape’s revival after the excesses that turned many people off.

Complete and harmonious are the descriptors you’ll find on the site. Judy said that Chardonnay wines “reflect the winemaker”. Tim was rather modest about accepting the accolade but it is a lovely refreshing style and “you feel like another one”. That second glass appeal again!

Judy loves her Pinot Noir and we had the Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir 2008, a beautiful subtle and elegant wine. While Judy was delighted that it had just received 92 points from the Wine Advocate, that didn't change her pretty low and earthily expressed opinion of wine guru Robert Parker.

Again, Star Anise had the match for the Pinot: Braised Chuck of Beef with Thyme, Parsley Puree, Horseradish Mash and Glazed Baby Carrots. The beef was so so tender and the whole plate was a perfect combination of flavours. Gorgeous.

It was a horrible day in Cork with the rain coming down but we did have a lovely evening thanks to Star Anise and Neudorf, a great combination. Great too to chat with John and Julie from Dillon’s in Timoleague and with Richie (and his bay moustache) from Blair’s Inn. And a big thanks too to Viginie and her team in the restaurant and to Conor and James Nicholson Wines (who distribute the Neudorf range in Ireland).

AMUSE BOUCHE

“...Maria...sat me down at a little round table which she began to fill with the fruit of Galicia’s arable cornucopia. Dark, cured chorizo,....., a decayed pastille of greying dairy matter that offended every sense but taste, a winning marriage of rich cream cheese and honey, and all this washed down with crisp local beer that demanded the back of the hand to be drawn across a grateful mouth.”  

From Spanish Steps, One Man and his Ass on the Pilgrim Way to Santiago, by Tim Moore.

TEN AWARDS FOR GILBEY WINES!

Gilbeys scoops ten awards for host of wine brands at the National Off-Licence Association Awards

Gleeson incorporating Gilbey’s, Ireland’s largest wine distributor, scooped a total of ten accolades at the recent National Off-Licence Association (NOffLA) Awards for a variety of their wine brands.

The outstanding winner was Marqués De Murrieta, Rioja Reserva 2005, which was named the overall ‘Red Wine of the Year’ as well as ‘Old World Red under €20’. This stunning traditional Rioja embodies ripe fruit qualities with a perfect balance of acidity with supple roundness on the palate and a hint of new oak. It is a firm favourite on dinner tables all over Ireland!

Gleeson incorporating Gilbeys also won three silver awards and five bronze awards for the following wines:

Silver Awards:

·         Old World White under €8          Longue Dog Blanc, France

·         New World White under €8         False Bay Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa

·         New World Red under €20          St Hallett Faith Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

Bronze Awards:

·         Old World White under €20        Drouhin Vaudon, Reserve de Vaudon Chablis, France

·         New World White under €14       Santa Rita Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Chile

·         New World White under €20       Hunter’s Sauvignon Blanc, Marlbrough, New Zealand

·         Old World Red under €8            Chat en Oeuf Rouge, France

·         New World Red under €8           False Bay Shiraz, South Africa

Sallyanne Cooney, General Manager of Gleeson’s incorporating Gilbey’s, which distributes the above wines in Ireland, says:

“This is an outstanding result and we are absolutely delighted that such a large variety of our wonderful wine brands have received great recognition at the prestigious National Off Licence Association Awards. All of our award winning wines are under €20, which proves that you don’t have to spend a fortune to find a great wine. We are planning to strongly support these wines in the run up to Christmas, ensuring that they are bound to be big sellers for the festive season.”

All of the above listed wines are available in NOffLA’s 330+ independent off licences around the country and are clearly identifiable on shelf. 

SPANISH WINE EVENT AT BALLYMALOE

Wine event at Ballymaloe

Spanish Wine tasting with Señor Oscar Bayo Contel,

of González Byass, Spain

in association with Barry & Fitzwilliam Wine Merchants

at Ballymaloe, Friday 11th November, 7pm

  

The famous Spanish wine company, Gonzalez Byass, established in 1835 in the Jerez region, it is still a family owned business and it is now at the 5th generation. They produce wine in different regions of Spain: Rioja, Toledo, Jerez, Somontano, Penedes and Cava. Oscar Bayo Contel will present a selection of wines –Sparkling Wines, White Wines, Red Wines, from different regions of Spain, as well as a  selection of Sherry, including some very special 30year old Sherries.

Spanish Wine Producer of the Year 2010

Wine tasting at The Grain Store, Ballymaloe

Friday 11^th November, 7pm.  €10

The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, Shanagarry, Co. Cork

Tel: 021 4652531    e-mail: thegrainstore@ballymaloe.ie