TOP NOTCH SANTA RITA RESERVAS

FIRST CLASS SANTA RITA WINES

Carlos (right) and yours truly at Isaacs

Carlos Gatica, Chief Winemaker with Santa Rita, the second biggest wine producer in Chile, was in Cork yesterday and brought a strong line-up to the Gilbeys Wine Tasting Lunch at Isaacs.

Many of you will be familiar with the Chilean winery’s 120 series and Carlos referred to the story (with a strong Irish connection) behind the 120 and you may read more on that here.

Santa Rita’s current mission though is to “educate” their Irish sellers, including hotels and restaurants who were well represented here, in an effort to broaden the appreciation of the better Santa Rita wines and particularly their reservas.

The introductory handshake was a very pleasant concentrated white: the Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010. This was accompanied by a selection of tempting tapas.

Could have happily stayed with those tasty bites but move on we did and Carlos then presented their 2009 Gran Reserva Medalla Real Chardonnay,

This has quite an intense bouquet and is a well balanced wine with silky texture and went down well with a warm salad of Marinated Chicken, smoked bacon and rustic potatoes.

Now it was on to the steak and the first of the reds. This was the superb Pehmén Carménère 2007 made with grapes from an old vineyard in the Apalta Valley. Aging is in 100% French oak barrels for 18 months. Really liked this flavoursome persistent wine.

The cheese made its appearance as it was time for the piece de résistance: a vertical tasting of the classic Casa Real. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon “seeks to obtain the maximum expression of the Alto Jaheul terroir”. New French oak barrels are used.

Many of you will know that vertical tasting means tasting the same wine from different years. The vintages at Isaacs were 2007, 2002 and 1999. The still young 2007, marginally higher in ABV @ 14.5%, was of excellent quality, the fruit concentrated after a good year, but was overshadowed by the other two.

The very elegant and concentrated 2002 (14.4%) was perhaps my favourite. Well balanced with ripe flavours and tannins, it has a full body and “a sleek finish”.

No vote was taken but the number one choice was the 1999 (4.3%), an “opulent” wine from an “opulent” year. The winemaker’s comments covered it all: "As a terroir concept, the 1999 vintage has been undoubtedly considered as the maximum expression of a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon to date.”

Maipo Valley

Interesting to note that Santa Rita has a presence in six wine areas of the country, allowing it to grow many different kinds of grape and expand its portfolio. Some of their areas are north of Santiago de Chile, some to the south (Carlos lives in Curicó), some are close to the coast, others in the foothills of the Andes. The valleys are Limari, Casablanca, Leyda, Rapel, Maipo and Apalto.

Credit to Gilbeys for putting on this excellent event “the first of many around the country”. Well done also to Carlos for his descriptions and humour and for bringing such a stunning selection to Isaacs.

Tiramisu Pancakes

Just for the crack:

Tiramisu Pancakes

IRISH MISSING OUT ON PECHARMANT

MISSING OUT ON PECHARMANT

Bergerac's wine museum (with large shop in front)

According to winesearcher.com, quite a few Irish merchants stock wines from Bergerac but none stock Pecharmant, the best red from the area. Just finished off the last of my 2010 holiday purchases the other day, hence the reason for the search.

Of course, I could have kept it – they age well – but I was tempted by “drink it now for the pleasure of its fruit” on the label. Really a pity that it is not available here as it gives many highly rated and more expensive Bordeaux a run.

Iron in the soil of this sub region of Bergerac gives the AOC wines (they make only rich red ones) minerality and grip.

Château de Tiregand Pecharmant 2007, 13%. The blend: Merlot 54%, Cabernet Sauvignon 23%, Cabernet Franc 18% and Malbec 5%.

Colour is dark red with elegant aromas of dark fruit. Doesn’t quite match the grip of the Peyretaille (below) but, in the mouth, it is a beautiful rounded ensemble. The 12 months on oak has played a part. No wonder, in earlier centuries, the boys of Bordeaux didn’t want these wines reaching these islands via their port.

Chateau Peyretaille Pecharmant 2007, 12.5%. The blend: Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 40%, Cot 10% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%.

A typically rich red; moreish, with a long length; very impressive and not surprised that it won a Silver Medal at the Grands Vins de France 2009.

Colour is a healthy looking black cherry red and the lovely fruity nose is very inviting. In the mouth, the red and black fruit are again prominent and a pleasure. There is a grippy texture in this excellent well balanced bottle.

Looks like I’ll have to make another trip to Bergerac!

SPANISH WINE TASTING OFFER

Spanish wine tasting In the Imperial Hotel Cork
Thursday 15^th September

5.30pm – 7pm

ONLY €20 Per person

Group offer – Book 4 places and bring 2 more for FREE (Only €13 each)

The embassy of Spain commercial office in association with FOOD&WINE Magazine would like you to join us for a fun night of fine wines and traditional food.

You will have the opportunity to taste up to 150 wines.  Meet Ireland‘s leading Spanish wine importers. Ask questions about the wine learn facts and find a new favourite.

Plus sample some of Spain’s finest meats and cheese bought you by Corks very own Horgan’s delicatessen.

So don’t miss out – if you enjoy wine and want to learn more about your favourite Spanish varieties come along with friends, family and colleagues for a Spanish wine tasting extravaganza – In Cork

To book your place, please contact Sarah Currey

On 01240 5387 or emailscurrey@harmonia.ie

KARWIG: TRYING TO KEEP THE SUMMER ALIVE

Domaine Houchart 2010, Cotes de Provence Rose, 13%, Karwig.

In Roussillon in Provence, built from stone from nearby
ochre quarries,  I bought the beautiful rosé below left.

Fair play to Karwig Wines. They are trying hard to keep the summer alive and this rosé will bring you a little sunshine from the Midi even if it is dull outside.

They have a great selection on offer and I was tempted by the Bandol (over a fiver off) but, having tasted a string of Provencal beauties this summer, I picked the Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence. 

Marcus Gates was helping me make the choices and he says that the rosés have been flying this summer and the offer will continue for quite a while yet.

This vineyard is located in Puyloubic, a little village close to Aix-en-Provence, and has been producing “for more than 100 years famous rosé, red and white wines”. Not too sure about the fame of the village but rosés in Provence are generally good, even if not always famous.

This pale pink effort by Houchart doesn't disappoint. Nothing weak about this dry rosé as it roams the taste buds, exciting interest as it gently rolls. Nice sharpish flavours of white fruit that hit home. 

OYSTERS AT THE RISING TIDE

THE CORK OYSTER FESTIVAL AT THE RISING TIDE
Made a quick visit to Glounthaune's Rising Tide this afternoon to sample the oysters from Haven Shellfish. Trish (left, in photo) was on hand with loads of helpful info on the bi-valves. By the way, if you don't fancy them raw, they are also available cooked and they are delicious. Plenty of time yet to enjoy the crack here as the festival continues to-night and tomorrow Sunday. Great credit to the Rising Tide and Sandra Murphy for putting on this festival on the city's doorstep and credit too to their very courteous and helpful staff.

Sandra Murphy (far right and centre) is ready for you in the Rising Tide. Well worth a visit.

Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House

Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House

with owner/winemaker Dave Palmer, Skillogalee, Clare Valley

8pm, Friday 16^th September, 2011

 

Skillogalee is a small family-owned, highly acclaimed, award-winning boutique winery, owned and run by winemaker Dave Palmer (pictured), and his family, set amongst wooded hills in one of the most picturesque parts of the Clare Valley, in South Australia.

 

Ballymaloe's Colm McCann: "We are delighted to be welcoming Dave Palmer to Ballymaloe, for his first ever winemaker dinner to be held in this part of Ireland, with a great line-up of his wines for the evening – from Sparkling wine, to dry whites, rosé, red wines, and a sweet wine to finish off the evening!

 

The wines include a Sparkling Wine; a Dry Riesling and the Reserve ‘Trevarrick’ Riesling (sealed under Vino-lok; a glass stopper); a Gewurztraminer; a Rosé;  a Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – labeled ‘The Cabernets’; a Shiraz; and a Liquer Muscat, with a menu to match."

 

 

‘Our favourite South Australian winery’ Lonely Planet

 

‘5 star wines; delicious, complex, and multi-dimensional’ – Decanter Magazine, September issue, 2011

 

‘Australian Top 100’ – Matthew Jukes

 

 

Friday 16^th September, 8pm,

€75 including dinner and wines.

Special rate available also for accommodation.

 

Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork,

Tel: 021 4652531       res@ballymaloe.ie

www.ballymaloe.ie.

MAHON MARKET VARIETY

MAHON MARKET VARIETY

Click to enlarge

Many of you will know the Old Millbank   stall at the Mahon Point Farmers Market .  It is a regular stop of mine, usually for the fine Irish Organic smoked salmon, sometimes for the salmon fishcakes and also for the delicious salmon pâté.

Yesterday I noticed a different product there: hummus. There were two types, one with chilli. I had a taste of both and went for the regular type. They had a chart (pictured) on the stall detailing the benefits of Hummus. Looks a good bet!

Moved on a few yards and what did I see but more hummus, this at the Real Olive stall . They also had two varieties. Bought some semi-dried tomatoes here and also a scoop of olives.

Also called to the Natural Food Bakery stall and bought one of their white yeast loaves. A lovely bread and absolutely ideal for use with good quality jams, such as those from Follain  in West Cork.

Barry Tyner was in great form as usual. Never a shortage of tasty pâté samples here and delighted to get myself a big chunk of that chicken and brandy one, a lively starter to any meal! No shortage of vegetables in Mahon. Called to the Ballycurraginny Farm this time and a fiver bought a bunch of carrots, a bunch of parsnips and a turnip

.

Iain O’Flynn has quite an array of food on his stall; soups, pates, jams and prepared dishes. On this occasion, I was tempted most by the Lamb Tagine. Had this before and it is terrific.

Queues at the fish stalls but I was on the lookout for meat on this occasion and stopped at Martin Conroy’s Woodside Farm ( @Woodside_Farm ) for a great looking pork steak and a good chat. Another chat at the Glenilen  stand before we went off with one of their gorgeous cheesecakes.

Reckon that lot will keep us going for a day or two. Maybe three!

WINE DATES TO SAVE!

September 15th, September 15th, September 15th ...Save this date!

October 10th, October 10th, October 10th .......... Save this date too!

September 15th is the date for the first ever Wines from Spain Tasting in Cork City.  Here is your first chance to see what is on offer in Cork...... 

The Economic and Commercial Office of the Embassy of Spain is pleased to announce their first ever Spanish Wine Tasting to members of the wine press and trade of Cork. The Wines from Spain: Changing Ways, which will take place on the September 15th at the Imperial Hotel, Cork City. 

Over 180 wines, will be on show at Wines from Spain Tasting with the collaboration of 17 Irish importers of Spanish Wine.  To view all importers and wines participating this year and download pictures, please view the Wines from Spain's Irish blog: spanishwineweek.ie

October 10th is the date for the Annual Wines from Spain Tasting in Dublin, this is the event's 7th year running in Dublin.  The Wines from Spain: Changing Ways will take place at the Shelbourne Hotel. 

2011 sees the return of the ever popular Christmas Stars competition, this year the competition will be on the best Sherries available in Ireland. The results of which will be sent in time for all Christmas publications.  Another first this year is the introduction of a Jerez Room exclusively showcasing the best Jerez wines in Ireland. 

Over 350 wines, the highest number yet,  will be on show at Wines from Spain Tasting with the collaboration of 19 Irish importers and 15 Spanish wineries seeking representation.  To view all importers, wines and wineries participating this year and download pictures, please view the Wines from Spain's Irish blog: spanishwineweek.ie

WELL FED AT BLAIRS INN

BLAIRS INN

All the hanging baskets and window boxes were catching the sun as I landed at Blairs Inn in Cloghroe yesterday for lunch.

Blairs bills itself as a traditional pub and restaurant and is popular with tourists and locals alike. It is regarded as one of the top gastro-pubs in the country and you’ll be well fed here.

Dishes in Blairs are quite substantial, so we skipped the starter and, while waiting for the mains, enjoyed a bottle of that splendid Stonewell cider (€5.50) from Nohoval. The Braised Shank of Lamb on a basil mash, served with a Redcurrant and Rosemary jus, arrived and looked good in the dish.

Then another dish arrived! With the vegetables: turnips, broccoli and carrots, all cooked to perfection. And that wasn't all as there was also some top notch baked potatoes (smooth roosters) there. Quantity for sure and quality also.

Took my time with that lot but there was zilch left on the main plate and that pleased our hosts no end. Service, with a  smile,  was excellent and courteous and no pressure to take dessert or coffee. Beyond me, in any case.

The bill, for two lamb and two cider, came to €46.90.

HANDSOME SICILIAN

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicily 2009, IGT, 13%, €15.50 (Bubble Bros)

Catarratto is one of the most heavily planted grape varieties in Italy and yet is found only in Sicily but you’ll be hard pressed to find anything good written about it.

One of the most “positive” sentences I’ve seen on it comes in Hugh Johnson’s 2011 Pocket Wine Book: “Sicilian white grape with as yet unrealised potential”.

The winemakers at historic Feudo Montoni (well known for their Nero D’Avola reds) have realised some of that potential in this bottle and credit too to Bubble Brothers, who also sell the Nero D’Avola, for going with it.

Indeed, they are quite proud of it: “This is a feather in our white wine cap, and no mistake.  Made from old vines set high above sea level in north-eastern Sicily, Fabio Sireci's Catarratto combines citrus freshness with the substantial body and mellowness of Catarratto when grown with a special varietal wine in mind.

Despite taking full advantage of the torrid Sicilian sun to offer ripe, peachy fruit, this is a crisply focused dry wine with more edge and minerality than you might expect from the island, and a persistent finish in keeping with the overall impression of refined, opulent craftsmanship.”

The colour is that of pale honey with a pleasant if moderate aromatic nose. On the palate, you have a rich texture and perfect balance of fruitiness and acidity and a pleasant lengthy finish. Perhaps the fact that it is made from fifty year old vines had something to with the quality here.

If you are looking for a change from the usual white grapes, then this is well worth a try. Why not drop down to Bubble Bros in Centre Park Road and see if they have it on their multi-bottle temperature controlled tasting device?
By the way. I have added it to My Favourite Wines 2011.

THE RETURN OF THE CHEF FACTOR

Chef Factor is back for 2011!

L-R: Sully, last year's winner Christine Crowley, Rachel Allen and Cully.

Colum O'Sullivan, of Cully & Sully, has been in touch with the news that the Chef Factor is to return this autumn.

"We’re proud to say that its return has been widely tipped as one of the hottest events in food to watch out for this year.  The prize is the same as last year- a place on January’s coveted 12 week Ballymaloe cookery course including accommodation, together worth over €12,000 euro and will include two weeks with myself and Cully to learn the ways of the food business. Lat year's winner Christine is doing really well now, running her own tearooms and everything!"

"Again we’re really trying to get across that Chef Factor is for anybody who wants to learn how to cook and develop their own career in food.  You don’t need to be a good cook to enter as the prize is professional training in one of the world’s leading cookery schools. We are simply looking for someone who really wants to win this once in a lifetime opportunity.  You can enter anything you like-from beans on toast  to a risotto, from steak to a cake!"

"We are also trying to remind entrants that Chef Factor is not all about online votes, as while three finalists will be determined by public vote, two wildcards will be handpicked by Cully and I to go through irrespective of votes and all finalists will be on an equal footing at the final. Everybody stands a great chance of winning the top prize!! Entrants are accepted from September 5th, 2011 and the winner is expected to be chosen in Ballymaloe on Saturday the 26th of November."

Entering is the same as last year- EASY PEASY!  All you have to do is upload a simple photo of a dish with the words “Cully & Sully” somewhere in the image and submit this to cheffactor.ie  along with a brief explanation of the dish and the reason why you deserve to win!

Mas de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010

Mas de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010, Vin de Pays des Alpilles, 13.5%, €9.20 at the vineyard.

“One day, the sea will recover the land and will stop at the Stèle (stone marker) of Mas de la Dame. So spoke Nostradamus.

The sea could well one day sweep up the flatlands of the Camargue and head for the historic farmhouse (mas) of la Dame. So I thought I’d help myself to some of their organic wine this summer during my hols in Provence.

This white is a blend of Rolle (80%) and Clairette. It has the colour of a well watered down whiskey and an aromatic nose. Dry and tasty, this classy fresh wine has a smooth and rounded mouthfeel with a mix of white fruit flavours spreading gently all over the palate, enough to allow a generous seepage into a lovely finish.

Aside from being mentioned in the predictions of Nostradamus, Mas de la Dame was painted by Van Gogh, and referred to by Simone de Beauvoir (famed 20th century French author-philosopher).

We had a lovely visit here in June and after tasting bought this white and some Stèle rouge 2006. They also do Olive Oil but we had already shopped for that at the nearby Castelas.

Unfortunately this fabulous wine is not available for sale in Ireland. But if you are in France, keep an eye out for it and grab some while you can. That Nostradamus fellow might just be correct!