KINSALE'S WINE MUSEUM

KINSALE’S WINE MUSEUM

At Desmond Castle

St Patrick sipping!

In the church of St Patrice in Rouen (France), there is a 16^th century stained glass window* showing the Irish patron saint having a glass of wine at Tara in 433 while the High King looks on anxiously. Maybe it’s the King’s glass?

On the 17^th of October, 1710, Jonathan Swift wrote to Stella from London: “I dined today with your Mr Sterne ...and drank Irish wine”.

In 1780, John Windham recalled visiting Cork city: “There are no hackney coaches but there are plenty of chairs or sedans. ...These vehicles are extremely convenient for the followers of Bacchus who has a great number of votaries in this city.”

These anecdotes show that there has been a long association between wine and the Irish so it is no surprise that the Irish went abroad some of them became involved in the trade. The most recent example I came across is the late Michael Lynch in Argentina’s Mendoza.

Loads of similar info is in the Wine Museum in Kinsale’s Desmond Castle. Maybe not the efforts of Michael Lynch, but virtually every other Irish connection, certainly before 2000 when the museum was set up, is very well covered indeed and great credit here goes to Ted Murphy, the Corkman who put it all together.

Many of you will know of the Cork family Hennessey who ended up in Bordeaux, the very same family whose name still appears on Ireland’s most popular cognac (brandy). But did you know that we were also involved in the sherry trade? Terry, for example.

The French connection is strong (and getting stronger in places like Provence and the Languedoc) but the Irish were also involved in wine in America, Cronins and Foleys in California for example.

And not just North America. Some of you may be familiar with the popular Chilean wine: St Rita 120. In the early 19^th century, freedom fighter General Barnardo Higgins (father from Sligo) and 120 of his men (including General John McKenna, another Irishman) took refuge in the St Rita cellars during the battle of Rancagua. The wine is named in their honour.

Many many connections and loads of interesting facts and also some memorabilia. I could go on and on but, in fairness to Mr Murphy, I think anyone interested in wine should take a trip down to Kinsale and take your time as you wander through the two rooms that make up this museum. Highly recommended and the admission at three euro wouldn’t buy you a glass of wine in any of the town's restaurants.

The three euro will also get you into the castle which was originally built about 1500 as the Kinsale Customs House, one of its tasks being to collect a tax based on the tonnage and quality of the wine. In 1497, the English king granted the local Earl of Desmond the right to take one cask from every shipment for himself!

Occupied by the Spanish during the Siege of Kinsale in 1601, the most famous event in the castle’s history came in 1747 when 54 prisoners died in a fire. Most of them were French seamen and the castle later became known as the French prison.

·          There is a reproduction (photo above) of the window in the museum, donated by the Irish John and Eithne Lagan of the Xanadu Winery (Margaret River, Aus.). By the way, I love their Next of Kin wines (available via Bubble Brothers).

FOTA ISLAND RESORT: RECIPE + VIDEO

CLASS ACT
Watch Fota Island Resort's Executive Pastry Chef, Rachid Zaouia, prepare delicious White Bread Bagutini and Herbe de Province Bread Rolls ow.ly/5ZFNG

COFFEES and TEAS from AFRICA and ASIA

COFFEES and TEAS from AFRICA and ASIA

Been falling behind on my coffees (mainly due to the long holiday – didn’t take any of my specials with me).

These specials are coming to me monthly, thanks to my membership of the Robert Roberts Connoisseur Club.  I’m not the connoisseur, by the way, but I sure am enjoying these offerings.

They changed continents in May, moving from South America to Africa, to Malawi in particular. And Roberts came up with a gem here: Malawi Mzuzu AAA. The co-op produces some cracking examples of Arabica coffee.

This had a substantial body, well balanced from start to finish and one that you won't be leaving behind you until you finish it off.

The June offering also came from Africa, from somewhat further north. It is Organic Ethiopian Yiracheffe. This is aromatic and quite rich, darker than the Malawian because Master blender Gareth Scully wanted to “ensure those wind and earthy citrus flavours are there with a good spicy aroma and a full syrupy aftertaste”.

Must admit I’d find it difficult to discern all the scents and flavours mentioned by Gareth but it is certainly one good cup of coffee.

It is back cross the Atlantic for the July pack: Organic Peruvian Cecovesa. I haven’t opened that yet but better get a move on before the August offering arrives.

On the tea front, I’ve been enjoying recent purchases from Little Buddha  in McCurtain Street, particularly the plain Shu Pu Erh, a four year old from the Menghai district in the Yunnan province of China.

The other loose tea I have at present is Pu Erh Pomegranate and Nettle (also includes orange peel and thistle flowers). This flavoured mix (79% black Pu Erh) has quite a sweet smell in the bag but that doesn’t mean the tea in the cup smells of seeds and flowers. 

It does have a flowery scent for sure and that is transferred, in  a very moderate way, to the cup, which I find, somewhat to my surprise, quite tasty indeed. A nice change from the straight Pu Erh.

HARD TO BEAT THE OLD ONES

BESO DE VINO OLD VINE GARNACHA 2009, (Cariñena, Spain), ABV 13.5%, RRP €9.99, Stockists , 4 stars

I’ve often seen “grows on you slowly” as a descriptor in wine tasting. So, maybe half the bottle is gone before you realise you’ve got a good one? Well, there’s no danger of wasting any of this warm super-tasty red.

The warm hello comes on first contact: “Howya doin’ old stock?” And it is old stock, as the fruit (100 per cent Garnacha) is from old vines, vines with an average of 40 years to be more precise. Later, that veteran Garnacha spends four months in new French oak before the product is released.

Then it is good to go, keen to please and the experience is totally satisfactory, especially when you consider the price is just €9.99! Antonio, the little bull fronting Beso de Vino, can be proud of this one. It is a bit like himself, friendly and confident.

Antonio boasts that there is lavender in the nose. Not too sure about that, he can be a bit of chancer at times, but there is certainly the aroma of black cherries there. The fruity mouthfeel is big, for sure, but the dense fruit rush is held in check by the almost unobtrusive tannins to give a well balanced wine with quite a pleasant finish.

Just to underline the quality, Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate Robert Palmer gave it 89 points.

I know many will just twist off the screw-cap and pour. But take a second and look at that cap. You will see three little holes in it. I’m told they are not made by Antonio’s horns. So why are they there? Check it out here.

THE BEERS SESSION

THE BEERS SESSION

Great to see the award winning O’Donovan’s Off Licence open a store here in Mayfield.

They are well known for their big selection of wine but, just to be contrary, my first call was for some cold beer. And, with courteous and informed help from the staff, I hit the jackpot, taking home five 50cl bottles of premier continental beer for just €10.00.

I’m not a big fan of wheat beer but included the Grolsch Weizen, the best wheat beer of 2007, in my bag. This 5.3% Dutch beer, a cloudy one, is brewed according to German standards. I made it the first of my tastings and enjoyed its aromas and taste more than previous wheat beers, though I wouldn’t want it for a session beer.

Didn't know that it needed a special pouring technique until I visited the website so maybe the next one will be even better.

Next up was the Warsteiner Premier Verum, a German effort with an ABV of 4.8%. This Pilsner was light and tarty and more my style then the Grolsch.

With a golden colour and a smooth taste, and well balanced, I had no doubts about opening my bottle of Budejovicke Pivo 1795. I like the Czech beers in any case and this, with its Protected Geographical Indication, is one of the best. The ABV is 4.7%.

Finished off with my old favourite, the Staropramen Premium Czech Lager  with an ABV of 5%. This is widely available and well worth a try. The brewery says it contains the spirit of Prague. Not too sure about that but it is smooth and well balanced and I find it easy and pleasant to drink.

I reckon I’ll be staying with the Czechs for the time being but I am on the lookout for a local lager. Must call soon to Bradley Off Licence for advice but, in the meantime, I’m open to suggestions!

EL COMANDANTE CHARDONNAY

EL COMANDANTE Chardonnay 2010, Argentina, 13.5%, Mannings Food Emporium, Bradley’s Off Licence and many other outlets. 

This 2010 Chardonnay picked up a bronze award at the International Wine Challenge, a distinction proudly worn on the front label. On the back, you will see the Mendoza winery is Irish owned, established by an army man, hence the name.

No oak and no complications. Just a lovely young Chardonnay, dry, fresh and fruity. Didn't need any comandante ordering me to get friendly with this young Argentinean.

Colour is pale with tints of green and the nose is moderately aromatic, with hints of gooseberry. In the mouth it is fresh and crisp, fruity (gooseberry and citrus traces) with a lively and lengthy finish.

Not a high priced wine but a good one and worthy of your consideration.

Naturally enough, the winery was delighted with the bronze medal and announced it as follows in June 2011:

At the recent London Wine Fair Irish owned winery El Comandante won awards as part of the International Wine Challenge. Wine Producer Tom Lynch is delighted to announce the both El Comandante's 2009 Malbec and 2010 Chardonnay won Bronze Medals. That it is the first time that the wine has entered into any international competition means that a Bronze Medal is quite an achievement, especially as this was only the second vintage from this winery.

There is a sad note here too as Michael Lynch, the founder, died shortly after the wine was first imported. You may see all the information here 

THE BOSUN: QUALITY (AND QUANTITY!)

THE BOSUN

Plaice

Headed down to Monkstown last Friday night for dinner at The Bosun. This well established restaurant is by the harbour so it is fitting that fish features strongly on the menu and I‘m glad to say I enjoyed my monkfish.


The Bosun is well known for quality and they are never found  lacking for quantity either and that was why I skipped the starter, settling instead for a Campari on the Rocks (4.15). 


Three chunks of Monkfish were wrapped in Parma Ham and the sauce was a Chardonnay and Saffron cream (23.50). The fish was cooked to perfection as it was in the other main dish at the table: Plaice stuffed with crab and garnished with crab claws and prawns (22.00). No shortage of side dishes, three in all: potatoes gratin, vegetables and chips. Quite a main course.

Monkfish

But we did have room for dessert and we both went for the Rum and Sultana Crème Brûlée , served with savour biscuits. The rum and sultana gave it a slightly different twist and it went down well.


Also going down well was the wine, a half bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, Cefiro, Vina Casablanca, Chile 2010 (13.00). Very pale colour unlikely to catch the eye but it had an inviting herbie citrusy nose, a lively mouthfeel, crisp and refreshing, and just the job for the fish.


The comfortable room was pretty thinly populated for a Friday night though the bar food area was busier. Service was excellent: courteous, helpful and attentive (but not overly so). 

RED NOSE WINE

RED NOSE WINE

My call to Gary Gubbins at his Red Nose Wine premises in Clonmel last week began with a lovely cup of Pónaire coffee made not far away in Annacotty. Pónaire, by the way, is the Irish for bean and Gary also sells this prize winning coffee here but, of course, his main business is selling wines.

The company motto is: Life is much too short to drink bad wine. Gary works hard at ensuring his Tipperary customers, along with his on-line fans, get that little something extra.

It would be easy to go for their big producers and the well known brands but small producers around the world put a great deal of hard work and time into their wines and often come up with gems. Gary spends quite a deal of his time searching out these good wines for his discerning customers whose opinions are sought and respected.

I agree with Gary here. I have spent extended holidays in France over the last three summers and have seen the hard work and care that goes into producing wine on these usually small family run farms. It is good to be able support them and their counterparts in other countries. Important too, if wine is not to go the bland way of mass produced beer.

Gary’s shop customers can taste before they buy: “Tasting is a large part of our communication mechanism and we have a wine tasting area open every day in our retail wine warehouse, with between three and five wines to sample on any given day.”

Needless to say, I sampled a few and I’ll be letting you know about some of them in the near future. In the meantime, why not call to the shop or have a look at the website.

There are bargains to be had, particularly among his new Australia wines, all subject to a 20% cut for the month of August. I like the look of the Bleasedale Range from Langhorne Creek but famous wines areas such as the Barossa and McLaren Vale are also represented in Clonmel.

If you have a special occasion coming, Gary can cater for that too. He has champagne and Prosecco and don't forget the connoisseur’s corner. So why not call in to the Business Park in Clonmel and sample that coffee before or after a tasting.

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

Great to see newcomers Glenilen Farm (left) at the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market this morning, even if their fantastic cheesecake wasn't on display. Had to settle for their Panacotta at the very reasonable price of 4 euro for two pots!

There were a couple of farmers showing off their vegetables, just out of the ground. This time it was the turn of Ballintubber (below). Their cauliflower just cried out for a home.

Dan Aherne, another East Cork producer was next door. Their fillet steaks were gone – “they go first” – but there was considerable consolation as I helped myself to a couple of T-bones.

Martin Conroy of Woodside contributes to the new 12 mile menu at Midleton’s Sage Restaurant and tells me he is delighted with it. “It was packed last night.” Woodside have quite a range of products from their free range pigs and, among other things, we like his burgers.

Also called to Iain O’Flynn; this time we were concentrating on his soups. He had two new to me so we gave them a go: Courgette and Parmesan and also Pea and Mint.

Also visited Gubbeen, Arbutus Bread, Rose Cottage, Green Saffron and the Old Millbank Smokehouse and more. By then, the bags were full, the arms at full stretch, so off home to plan the next few meals. With this kind of produce, they should be good.

OPERA IN THE GARDEN

OPERA - ROAST PIG - FINE WINES

Dominique Geary of From Vineyards Direct has been in touch to say that FVYD are the proud sponsors of: “Charity events at Burren House with the London Garden Opera Company.”

The events are on two days, on 3^rd and 4^th September with all proceeds going to Marymount Hospice, Cork Simon and Local Schools.

On 3rd the From Vineyards Direct team will be there to help you enjoy the Pig Roast Barbeque with suitably picked wines from their successful range! This will take place during an extended interval between the two operas. Also on 4th during the shorter interval!

For a full programme please visit : the Burren House website  (Saturday 3^rd September full day, garden Opera and Picnic = tickets €69 Sunday 4^th September 7-9pm = € 35).

I will be back shortly with the list of wines that will be available to taste and buy (all proceeds to charities mentioned above).

THE APPLE FARM

THE APPLE FARM


Enjoyed some exceptional plum jam at lunchtime. Spread it out on some pieces of a sliced bloomer from ABC in the English Market and..Wow!!.


Bought the jam last week from the Apple Farm in Tipperary. Just brilliant. If you can’t find it in stock in Cork, drive up to Cahir. It is only up the road. Worth it! It is very easy to get to and something to do on a bad day.


The shop is on the edge of Con Trass’ fruit farm and is a few miles outside of Cahir on the main road to Clonmel. Of course, you may also buy online.


Con makes one of my all time favourite Irish drinks: Sparkling Apple Juice. They were actually bottling some of it as I visited.


Stocked up on that (plus one of Sparkling Apple and Blackcurrant Juice)  and also loads of the well known Karmine Apple Juice. Jars and jars of jam: apple, strawberry and that fabulous plum!


The apple harvest doesn’t begin until later this month and we were between strawberry pickings and there were none ready but should be there in abundance this week. But there were lots of those plums and we got a pack or two.


Soon we were on the road with two big boxes full of fruit drinks, jam and fruit. Apples have been grown in this area for hundreds of years, and since 1968, Con Trass has been planting more orchards to increase supply. Read all about this fascinating venture here. Every county should have at least one fruit farm like this. Maybe Con might start a chain!

SUPERB SAGE

SUPERB SAGE

Ham and cabbage. Irish. Old Irish even. But cooked with a modern touch by the chefs at Midleton’s Sage  it is turned into something special. And I enjoyed it there last week, enjoyed every bit of the meal.


 A Ham Hock and Green Cabbage terrine with pickle was my very tasty starter. Something different and the terrine was enhanced by the pickle (courgette and gherkin). A very different dish but on a par with the brilliant Corn Beef and Cabbage starter I enjoyed recently at Blairs Inn. Goes to show what can be done with the most humble of ingredients in the hands of chefs who know and care.


The main course was also brilliant: Roast Chicken supreme with Asparagus, Courgette and Chorizo fritters, buttered mash and a white wine cream. The chicken was top class, tender and juicy and the Asparagus was cooked to a T. The buttered mash was one of the best I’ve come across. The fritters were different and tasty and the cream topped it off.


I could have stopped there and this menu would have cost me €20! Dessert, Warm Double Chocolate Orange Tart, brought it up to €25.00. It is an Early Bird but there is a fairly liberal interpretation of early.
Wine was a lively refreshing white from Bordeaux: Chateau Haut Rian 2010, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend, at €12.00 for a half bottle.


Sage is just a few yards off the Main Street in Midleton and is a lovely room. The chairs are comfortable and you have space enough on the tables. Service is friendly and attentive. Food is good and so too is the value.


They have recently introduced a 12 mile menu where all the food is local but that menu is only available at lunch-time. Could be well worth a call!

PIRATES SCORE ON CORK GOURMET TRAIL

See some more photos, these by Billy MacGill....here

CORK GOURMET TRAIL 

Captains Sylvia and Sandra

Scores of pirates gathered in Cork City on Saturday. But their intentions were benign. Make the most of the inaugural Cork Gourmet Trail  was the mission and it was accomplished with much fun, thanks to our merry captains.


First call was to Soho in mid-morning where a Pannier Champagne reception was laid on. There was a pirate hat competition running and early favourites emerged at the photo call. Champers downed, the gathering was divided into three crews and marched out on to the streets.


Led by feisty captains Sylvia and Sandra, our crew wandered peacefully through the side streets until we reached Greens by the Waterfall where the host restaurant was joined by Isaacs and the Rising Tide in dishing up the grub. The grog, as was the case in all four venues, was sponsored by Classic Drinks.


On then to the Boardwalk – nobody had to walk the plank – and the impressive line-up to feed the villains here was Club Brasserie, El Vino, Augustine’s and The Boardwalk Bar and Grill. 

Sing for your supper

Next host was Electric, again through the side streets including a stop in Oliver Plunkett Street and a song which earned the singing pirate a meal out for two!


More music at Electric where Pa Fitz entertained and where the high standard of food was maintained by Jacobs, the Ambassador, Soho and Electric itself. Still one more food stop to go and that was at the Cornstore where the providers were Amicus, Fenns Quay and Cornstore.


About five o’clock, the different crews re-united upstairs at the nearby Bodega to compare notes and the bounty – some restaurants, including Jacobs and Electric, gave out meal or wine vouchers – and listen to the band. The quiz and costumes winners were announced and the Bodega management offered everyone a free drink.

Pat Fitz at Electric

It was a very enjoyable day and very encouraging for the organisers. Looks like one that will be repeated. Personally, I enjoyed every moment, from that first starter of Jack McCarthy Black Pudding with Apple Sauce by Isaacs to the final Chocolate Mousse in a mini-cornet by Fenns Quay.


Tried hard to sample everything; don't think it was possible. My favourite of those that I did try out was the Chicken Balti with the French Morteau sausage by Augustine’s. Isaac’s breaded lamb chop and Electric’s cold sea bass dish were other favourites.

Classic Wines

But I was just one of many and others spoke to me of enjoying their particular favourites and I heard that the Tapas type offerings of some restaurants went down very well, the Boardwalk’s steaks were popular was were the Chinese offerings of the Ambassador.


Something for everyone then and nice to see some chefs trying something different such as the “Gravalaix of Tuna in a Nori seaweed” by the Rising Tide and the different take on the Seafood Chowder by Greene’s who also had a terrific Beetroot Soup on their table.


Just a word of praise to Classic Drinks who not alone kept the thirsty crews well lubricated but also took the trouble to post up plenty of information about the wines and varied the offerings from restaurant to restaurant, usually matching a red with a white from the same area. In Electric for example, they had a Muriel Blanco 2009 along with a Muriel CVC Rioja 2006.


So a big thanks to Classic, to Pannier, to all the restaurants and especially to the organisers! Just picked up a message in a bottle down the quays and it reads: Let’s do it all again next year!