THE BOSUN: QUALITY (AND QUANTITY!)

THE BOSUN

Plaice

Headed down to Monkstown last Friday night for dinner at The Bosun. This well established restaurant is by the harbour so it is fitting that fish features strongly on the menu and I‘m glad to say I enjoyed my monkfish.


The Bosun is well known for quality and they are never found  lacking for quantity either and that was why I skipped the starter, settling instead for a Campari on the Rocks (4.15). 


Three chunks of Monkfish were wrapped in Parma Ham and the sauce was a Chardonnay and Saffron cream (23.50). The fish was cooked to perfection as it was in the other main dish at the table: Plaice stuffed with crab and garnished with crab claws and prawns (22.00). No shortage of side dishes, three in all: potatoes gratin, vegetables and chips. Quite a main course.

Monkfish

But we did have room for dessert and we both went for the Rum and Sultana Crème Brûlée , served with savour biscuits. The rum and sultana gave it a slightly different twist and it went down well.


Also going down well was the wine, a half bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, Cefiro, Vina Casablanca, Chile 2010 (13.00). Very pale colour unlikely to catch the eye but it had an inviting herbie citrusy nose, a lively mouthfeel, crisp and refreshing, and just the job for the fish.


The comfortable room was pretty thinly populated for a Friday night though the bar food area was busier. Service was excellent: courteous, helpful and attentive (but not overly so). 

RED NOSE WINE

RED NOSE WINE

My call to Gary Gubbins at his Red Nose Wine premises in Clonmel last week began with a lovely cup of Pónaire coffee made not far away in Annacotty. Pónaire, by the way, is the Irish for bean and Gary also sells this prize winning coffee here but, of course, his main business is selling wines.

The company motto is: Life is much too short to drink bad wine. Gary works hard at ensuring his Tipperary customers, along with his on-line fans, get that little something extra.

It would be easy to go for their big producers and the well known brands but small producers around the world put a great deal of hard work and time into their wines and often come up with gems. Gary spends quite a deal of his time searching out these good wines for his discerning customers whose opinions are sought and respected.

I agree with Gary here. I have spent extended holidays in France over the last three summers and have seen the hard work and care that goes into producing wine on these usually small family run farms. It is good to be able support them and their counterparts in other countries. Important too, if wine is not to go the bland way of mass produced beer.

Gary’s shop customers can taste before they buy: “Tasting is a large part of our communication mechanism and we have a wine tasting area open every day in our retail wine warehouse, with between three and five wines to sample on any given day.”

Needless to say, I sampled a few and I’ll be letting you know about some of them in the near future. In the meantime, why not call to the shop or have a look at the website.

There are bargains to be had, particularly among his new Australia wines, all subject to a 20% cut for the month of August. I like the look of the Bleasedale Range from Langhorne Creek but famous wines areas such as the Barossa and McLaren Vale are also represented in Clonmel.

If you have a special occasion coming, Gary can cater for that too. He has champagne and Prosecco and don't forget the connoisseur’s corner. So why not call in to the Business Park in Clonmel and sample that coffee before or after a tasting.

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

Great to see newcomers Glenilen Farm (left) at the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market this morning, even if their fantastic cheesecake wasn't on display. Had to settle for their Panacotta at the very reasonable price of 4 euro for two pots!

There were a couple of farmers showing off their vegetables, just out of the ground. This time it was the turn of Ballintubber (below). Their cauliflower just cried out for a home.

Dan Aherne, another East Cork producer was next door. Their fillet steaks were gone – “they go first” – but there was considerable consolation as I helped myself to a couple of T-bones.

Martin Conroy of Woodside contributes to the new 12 mile menu at Midleton’s Sage Restaurant and tells me he is delighted with it. “It was packed last night.” Woodside have quite a range of products from their free range pigs and, among other things, we like his burgers.

Also called to Iain O’Flynn; this time we were concentrating on his soups. He had two new to me so we gave them a go: Courgette and Parmesan and also Pea and Mint.

Also visited Gubbeen, Arbutus Bread, Rose Cottage, Green Saffron and the Old Millbank Smokehouse and more. By then, the bags were full, the arms at full stretch, so off home to plan the next few meals. With this kind of produce, they should be good.

OPERA IN THE GARDEN

OPERA - ROAST PIG - FINE WINES

Dominique Geary of From Vineyards Direct has been in touch to say that FVYD are the proud sponsors of: “Charity events at Burren House with the London Garden Opera Company.”

The events are on two days, on 3^rd and 4^th September with all proceeds going to Marymount Hospice, Cork Simon and Local Schools.

On 3rd the From Vineyards Direct team will be there to help you enjoy the Pig Roast Barbeque with suitably picked wines from their successful range! This will take place during an extended interval between the two operas. Also on 4th during the shorter interval!

For a full programme please visit : the Burren House website  (Saturday 3^rd September full day, garden Opera and Picnic = tickets €69 Sunday 4^th September 7-9pm = € 35).

I will be back shortly with the list of wines that will be available to taste and buy (all proceeds to charities mentioned above).

THE APPLE FARM

THE APPLE FARM


Enjoyed some exceptional plum jam at lunchtime. Spread it out on some pieces of a sliced bloomer from ABC in the English Market and..Wow!!.


Bought the jam last week from the Apple Farm in Tipperary. Just brilliant. If you can’t find it in stock in Cork, drive up to Cahir. It is only up the road. Worth it! It is very easy to get to and something to do on a bad day.


The shop is on the edge of Con Trass’ fruit farm and is a few miles outside of Cahir on the main road to Clonmel. Of course, you may also buy online.


Con makes one of my all time favourite Irish drinks: Sparkling Apple Juice. They were actually bottling some of it as I visited.


Stocked up on that (plus one of Sparkling Apple and Blackcurrant Juice)  and also loads of the well known Karmine Apple Juice. Jars and jars of jam: apple, strawberry and that fabulous plum!


The apple harvest doesn’t begin until later this month and we were between strawberry pickings and there were none ready but should be there in abundance this week. But there were lots of those plums and we got a pack or two.


Soon we were on the road with two big boxes full of fruit drinks, jam and fruit. Apples have been grown in this area for hundreds of years, and since 1968, Con Trass has been planting more orchards to increase supply. Read all about this fascinating venture here. Every county should have at least one fruit farm like this. Maybe Con might start a chain!

SUPERB SAGE

SUPERB SAGE

Ham and cabbage. Irish. Old Irish even. But cooked with a modern touch by the chefs at Midleton’s Sage  it is turned into something special. And I enjoyed it there last week, enjoyed every bit of the meal.


 A Ham Hock and Green Cabbage terrine with pickle was my very tasty starter. Something different and the terrine was enhanced by the pickle (courgette and gherkin). A very different dish but on a par with the brilliant Corn Beef and Cabbage starter I enjoyed recently at Blairs Inn. Goes to show what can be done with the most humble of ingredients in the hands of chefs who know and care.


The main course was also brilliant: Roast Chicken supreme with Asparagus, Courgette and Chorizo fritters, buttered mash and a white wine cream. The chicken was top class, tender and juicy and the Asparagus was cooked to a T. The buttered mash was one of the best I’ve come across. The fritters were different and tasty and the cream topped it off.


I could have stopped there and this menu would have cost me €20! Dessert, Warm Double Chocolate Orange Tart, brought it up to €25.00. It is an Early Bird but there is a fairly liberal interpretation of early.
Wine was a lively refreshing white from Bordeaux: Chateau Haut Rian 2010, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend, at €12.00 for a half bottle.


Sage is just a few yards off the Main Street in Midleton and is a lovely room. The chairs are comfortable and you have space enough on the tables. Service is friendly and attentive. Food is good and so too is the value.


They have recently introduced a 12 mile menu where all the food is local but that menu is only available at lunch-time. Could be well worth a call!

PIRATES SCORE ON CORK GOURMET TRAIL

See some more photos, these by Billy MacGill....here

CORK GOURMET TRAIL 

Captains Sylvia and Sandra

Scores of pirates gathered in Cork City on Saturday. But their intentions were benign. Make the most of the inaugural Cork Gourmet Trail  was the mission and it was accomplished with much fun, thanks to our merry captains.


First call was to Soho in mid-morning where a Pannier Champagne reception was laid on. There was a pirate hat competition running and early favourites emerged at the photo call. Champers downed, the gathering was divided into three crews and marched out on to the streets.


Led by feisty captains Sylvia and Sandra, our crew wandered peacefully through the side streets until we reached Greens by the Waterfall where the host restaurant was joined by Isaacs and the Rising Tide in dishing up the grub. The grog, as was the case in all four venues, was sponsored by Classic Drinks.


On then to the Boardwalk – nobody had to walk the plank – and the impressive line-up to feed the villains here was Club Brasserie, El Vino, Augustine’s and The Boardwalk Bar and Grill. 

Sing for your supper

Next host was Electric, again through the side streets including a stop in Oliver Plunkett Street and a song which earned the singing pirate a meal out for two!


More music at Electric where Pa Fitz entertained and where the high standard of food was maintained by Jacobs, the Ambassador, Soho and Electric itself. Still one more food stop to go and that was at the Cornstore where the providers were Amicus, Fenns Quay and Cornstore.


About five o’clock, the different crews re-united upstairs at the nearby Bodega to compare notes and the bounty – some restaurants, including Jacobs and Electric, gave out meal or wine vouchers – and listen to the band. The quiz and costumes winners were announced and the Bodega management offered everyone a free drink.

Pat Fitz at Electric

It was a very enjoyable day and very encouraging for the organisers. Looks like one that will be repeated. Personally, I enjoyed every moment, from that first starter of Jack McCarthy Black Pudding with Apple Sauce by Isaacs to the final Chocolate Mousse in a mini-cornet by Fenns Quay.


Tried hard to sample everything; don't think it was possible. My favourite of those that I did try out was the Chicken Balti with the French Morteau sausage by Augustine’s. Isaac’s breaded lamb chop and Electric’s cold sea bass dish were other favourites.

Classic Wines

But I was just one of many and others spoke to me of enjoying their particular favourites and I heard that the Tapas type offerings of some restaurants went down very well, the Boardwalk’s steaks were popular was were the Chinese offerings of the Ambassador.


Something for everyone then and nice to see some chefs trying something different such as the “Gravalaix of Tuna in a Nori seaweed” by the Rising Tide and the different take on the Seafood Chowder by Greene’s who also had a terrific Beetroot Soup on their table.


Just a word of praise to Classic Drinks who not alone kept the thirsty crews well lubricated but also took the trouble to post up plenty of information about the wines and varied the offerings from restaurant to restaurant, usually matching a red with a white from the same area. In Electric for example, they had a Muriel Blanco 2009 along with a Muriel CVC Rioja 2006.


So a big thanks to Classic, to Pannier, to all the restaurants and especially to the organisers! Just picked up a message in a bottle down the quays and it reads: Let’s do it all again next year!

DOUBLE GOLD FOR CUINNEOG

Cuinneog Ltd. (Balla, Co. Mayo), are celebrating after winning coveted gold stars for both Cuinneog Irish Farmhouse Country Butter and Cuinneog Buttermilk at the 2011 Great Taste Awards. This prestigious award scheme is run by the Guild of Fine Foods in the UK and a grand total of 7481 entries were received this year.

“Cuinneog Ltd. are really pleased with this result”, said Seamus Mulligan, Business Development Manager, Cuinneog, “We’ve received a Great Taste Award for our butter on three occasions before, but never for both our products. Cuinneog is the only buttermilk to achieve this award. It’s a real endorsement for Cuinneog and for genuine traditional Irish food”.

Bob Farrand, Chairman for The Great Taste Awards, said: “Winning Gold in the country’s largest and most respected independent food accreditation scheme is a massive pat on the back for any producer - independent proof their products are of the highest quality.

The Judges comments are made available to entrants and it was no surprise to Cuinneog that the flavour was specifically mentioned. “For the flavour” is the tagline used on Cuinneog butter and buttermilk and it’s good to know that the Judges at the Great Taste Awards agree with the sentiment.

Cuinneog can be found in all major retail groups including Tesco, Dunnes Stores, Superquinn/Musgraves, Supervalu, Costcutters and Euro Spar. Artisan shops throughout the country carry Cuinneog products. Both Cuinneog butter and buttermilk are widely used in the restaurant and catering trade.

The Great Taste Awards, organised by the Guild of Fine Food, are now in their 18^th year and going from strength to strength. 7481 products were entered from 1600 companies for the 2011 Great Taste Awards. It took 350 experts 34 days to blind taste all the entries and decide which entries would achieve the coveted awards. The Great Taste Awards judging standards, devised by the Guild of Fine Food, are the most rigorous in the UK.

Costières de Nîmes - Home and Away

Mas de Bressades, Tradition Blanc, AOC Costières de Nîmes 2009, 13.5%, €13.00, Bubble Brothers, 4 stars.

Rhone-Setes Canal, south of Nimes

I was surprised by the quality of the whites from Costières de Nimes during last month’s visit to Provence. The Costières, for some time now officially a Rhone wine, is based in the area around Nimes, including the “wild” Camargue, in the Bouches de Rhone.

I spotted this on the Bubbles Brothers site  and was keen to compare it with one that survived the journey home. Must admit I had meant to pick up the 2010 version but, with all the chat, ended up with the 2009.  I needn't have worried.

Colour is a weak golden straw and the nose is intensely aromatic. On the palate it is fresh and fruity (grapefruit mainly for me), quite complex plus a pleasant flavoursome finish. A very acceptable wine indeed.

Camargue ponies near Gallician

But do watch out for the 2010 version which according to the Bubble Bros site is “as fresh and fruity as ever” and “an irresistible temptation to those who like the fuller, richer style of white that comes from Roussanne and Grenache blanc” It is 50% Roussanne and 30% Grenache.

Gallician Costières de Nîmes Prestige blanc 2010, 13%

Cave Pilote de Gallician recommends that their white wines be kept for no more than two years. No danger of my exceeding that as the sole remaining bottle from June’s French haul was enjoyed at Tuesday’s barbecue. 

Not exactly comparing like with like here as the grape mix is different to the one from Bubble Bros. It is 50% Grenache blanc, 30% Clairette and 20% Marsanne and the cost, at the Cave, was less than four euro.

Colour is pale yellow and the nose is moderately floral and, on the palate, it is fresh and smooth with a decent finish. Not bad at all but the honours in this little contest go to the Mas de Bressades.

To see more of my June trip to some of the Costieres de Nimes villages, click here. 

Marco de Pegões 2009

Marco de Pegões 2009 Portugal, 13.5%, €8.99, stockists

Take a sip of this red blend from Portugal. I did and thought it good. Then I took a look at the price: €8.99. Incredible. Incredibly good value.

Colour is an attractive ruby with an attractive nose of berries. The acidity here is the first to shake hands with you as the tannins are not shy. But immediately there is a rich follow of fruit and the decent finish is along similar lines. Quite a wine for the price.

Castelao is a well known Portuguese grape and makes up 50 per cent of this wine. The other constituents are: Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon/ Alicante Bouchet.

The boys of Wine Alliance have a nose for wines of value and they have certainly hit the jackpot here. I’m not the only one thinking along these lines. The Sunday Times online have it listed as a Star Buy  this summer

Stockists by County

Cork

1601 Off Licence, Kinsale Cork

Bradleys Off Licence, North Main Street Cork

JJ O Driscolls, Ballinlough, Cork

Barrys Off Licence, Midleton, Cork

The Beer Garden, Turners Cross, Cork

Mulcahys Off Licence, Charleville, Cork

Matsons Wine Store, Bandon, Cork

Monkstown Golf Club, Monkstown, Cork

Murphys Foodstore, Dromcummer, Cork

Electric, South Mall, Cork

Liberty Grill, Washington Street, Cork

Cafe Gusto, Washington Street, Cork

TAVEL: BEST ROSÉ IN FRANCE

TAVEL (FRANCE) 2010 CUVÉE A LA PEINTURE, 14%.

Much about the featured painter, Daniele Buisson, on the label but not so much about the wine from Tavel. It is Rosé, as that is all they produce in this southern Rhone village. 

The nose is slightly shy, yet aromatic. On the palate it is dry and the fruit, after a shy shakehands, begins to blossom and you find yourself sipping a smooth and flavoursome wine. Tavel wines are dry and tend to have more body and structure than most rosés.

Tavel promotes itself, not in a shy way, as the Best Rosé in France and it is certainly a contender. But there are many such contenders further south in Provence where virtually each wine village produces a very presentable rosé. I especially liked the one from Mas de la Dame.

On a recent visit to Tavel, I bought this Cuvee a la Peinteure. But they do have another ace up their sleeve and the helpful lady in the Vignerons de Tavel premises produced it, though not from under her sleeve! In my humble opinion, then and now, the Cuvee Royale was better and didn't cost a whole lot more. This may well be the best in France!

It is grown in a different part of Tavel on the smooth round stones also found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and is located east of the town in the direction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Irish stockists of Tavel, not necessarily my tastings, include Power and Smullen and O’Briens  

For more on my visit to Tavel, and the strange little animal I saw after lunch (and the tastings!), click here.

Clonakilty Waterfront Festival 2011

Clonakilty Waterfront Festival 2011

Avril, of Rosscarbery Recipes (who make award winning black and white pudding) plus fabulous rashers and sausages), has been in touch to tell me that the Clonakilty Waterfront festival starts this coming Thursday. Music, craic and good food will feature strongly from Thursday right through to a monster Farmers Market on Sunday.

The festival kicks off on Thursday July 28th to the rousing sounds of the Roaring Forties; sure to have everyone on their feet, with Cafe Orchestra also providing further entertainment on the opening night, while guests are treated to every local delicacy imaginable in the signature opening event “Flavours of West Cork”, sponsored by Carbery. This spectacular event features suppliers and restaurateurs from around West Cork providing festival goers with the opportunity to taste their culinary delights before they enjoy Ireland’s premier Swing Band.

Avril says it was great last year: “I’ll be there again, alongside the Celtic Ross stand. It should be good again. All sorts of great food. Hope to see you all there.” And do call to the Rosscarbery stand. In addition to the top black and white pudding, you may also get a taste of their fabulous rashers and sausages, all from their free range pigs.

You’ll find all the festival details here.

GOOD DEAL AT BUBBLE BROTHERS

STILL AND BUBBLING

Temperature controlled tasting machine

Didn't realise Bubble Brothers, who started off as Champagne importers in the 1990s, were so strong in Sicilian Wines until I made call to their Centrepark Road Headquarters last week. 

It turned out to be a very pleasant interlude indeed as I enjoyed the chat and the help in picking out a few whites.

I did some homework on my search on their website which, in fairness, is easy  to navigate. There are quite a few headings for searching wines (country, colour, grape and so on) and they also do some non-wine products such as beer and coffee.

As I said, I was on the prowl for white and, armed with one of these Living Social Deals (€15.00 bought me a 30 euro voucher), I called to the well laid out shop.  The first thing that caught my eye was their Taste before you Buy facility, made possible by their state of the art temperature controlled tasting machine where some 16 bottles can be open at any one time. Very impressive indeed.

My shortlist contained just three. I had seen the 2010 Picpoul de Pinet  (12.00) recommended. I wanted to see how their Costieres de Nimes 2010  (€13.00) compares with some of my recent bottles in Provence. They themselves highly recommend their 2010 Sicilian Montoni Catarrato  (€15.50) and that was my third choice. All three were in stock and I’ll be sampling them soon. I’ll let you know how I get on.

Another advantage of calling to Centrepark Road, aside from the tasting facility, is that you can buy by the case and, if you do, you get two bottles free. If you can’t get down the Marina, don't forget they have a stall in the English Market and, of course, you may also order online.