VILLAGE TALK
The hype on wine labels never ceases to amaze me. Take this for example, from an ordinary Beaujolais-Villages: “...like a dream,...a poem, or perhaps a symphony”.
My notes for this Pierre Ponnelle 2009 Beaujolais Villages were more down to earth. Leave the orchestra out of it; the string quartet will do nicely!
Colour: Light cherry red.
Nose: Tame fruit.
Palate: Light red fruit flavours, simple, easy drinking dry wine, smooth and nicely balanced with not a bad finish at all. The grape is 100% Gamay and ABV is 12.5%. Rating: ***
They say “it is .. richer than any other types of Beaujolais”. But we don’t believe everything we read on the back label. Do we?
It didn’t always have such skilled defenders as today’s PR firm. Gamay was once banned. Duke Phillip the Bold took a dislike to it back in the 14th century. But it grew its way back. The revival really took a hold in the 1960s when local grower Georges Duboef promoted, with great success, Beaujolais Nouveau.
That usually arrived in November, still does but to much less fanfare, and was meant to be drunk young and that applies to much of today’s Beaujolais (Nouveau or otherwise) though there are exceptions.
Not overly keen on this fairly average one and you, and I, would do better to find a Beaujolais Villages with the village name on the bottle – see the map (click to enlarge). A wine made from the grapes from one of these villages is called a Cru Beaujolais, and the AOC label will name the village. It will be a little bit more expensive but not overly so. Must say I do enjoy one every now and then, especially in summer time.
Much the same goes for Cotes de Rhone Villages. Get one with the village name on the bottle. I hit the jackpot here with a Christmas present: Chateau de Marjolet 2009 Laudun, Cotes de Rhone Village, Cuvee Tradition, 14.5% ABV, Gold Medal winner Orange 2010 ****.(This present got mixed with others so I don't know who gave it and canl;t ask where they bought uit. Jay Fox of has been in touch: "its hitting Ireland in about 3-4 weeks. I'll be stocking it.")
Marjolet is “an independent producer” in the village of Laudun where some of the region’s finest reds are made. Hugh Johnson has praise for it in his 2011 writings: Most happening area, bundle of good wines,...., all very drinkable.”
On the evidence of this Laudun, I agree with him. Colour is medium red with an aroma of red fruits (strawberry and cherry). On the palate, it is peppery, juicy, medium bodied and well balanced and rich with a pleasant lingering finale.
