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| Venice (above) in the NE of Italy where the country's Pinot Grigio is grown |
THE PINOT GRIGIO FIVE
I have seen the wine made from Pinot Grigio described as “inoffensive”. As if there is something wrong with being inoffensive. Am I missing something here? Is there a demand out there for offensive wines?
I am always suspicious of generalisations: the Irish are drunkards, the French are rude, the Scots are misers. It is the same with wine. People who hate Chardonnay are often surprised to find its many different expressions, most notably in Champagne and Chablis. It is much the same with Pinot Grigio. I picked up five examples recently and would have picked up many more had I visited places like Curious Wines and Karwig Wines. This is the account of my little tour.
Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Pinot Grigio 2008 12% (Bubble Bros) €12.50
Hard to pass Bubble Brothers in the English Market and harder still if they are selling a wine called Billi Billi. Glad I stopped and picked this honey coloured one up. Nose of peaches is followed by apples and pears on the palate. It is dry and clean with isolated clusters of micro bubbles clinging to the glass and giving an almost fizzy tingle. It is well balanced with a decent finish and very enjoyable indeed. PR: 7.0
Langi is one of Australia's most distinguished wine producers and the Billi Billi is named after a creek on the property.
Poggio al Sole Rose Colli Piacentini Pinot Grigio Frizzante 2009 11.5% ABV
Italy has been the traditional home of Pinot Grigio but this bottle is far from traditional. Colli Piacentini is an area known for its semi-sparkling wines and this is one. The nose is aromatic and the colour an inviting rose/gold. In the mouth, it is mainly apple and pears, dry, and bubbly of course, almost cidery. Just goes to show that there are so many variations.
Probably has its uses, as an aperitif or with an outdoor summertime salad. I wouldn’t say no to it in those circumstances. PR: 5.5
- Didn't note the cost but it was somewhere in the low teens. Got both this and Langi above from Bubble Bros in the Market for the advertised reduced price of €20.00.
Tim Adams Clare Valley Pinot Gris 2008 12.5%
Must say this was a disappointment. A few months back, I tasted the 2009 version and really liked it, even shook Tim’s hand (in Blackrock Castle) and told him so. The disappointment started when I poured the wine from the slightly darkened bottle. Had been expecting a distinctive rose gold hue, a pinkish colouration which is a natural phenomenon of the grape and which is retained by Adams in the 2009 version but not in this one!
The colour is your average straw and the nose a modest peach. But this 2008 version is more dry, more zesty, more tingly, than 2009 and I’m not happy that there is enough fruit (peaches, pear, citron) to balance.
The back label suggests that it is ideal with Asian food and it is probably worth a try. But leave me out of it. PR: 5.5
But I will be looking out for the 2009 bottles in Tesco where this one cost €11.35.
Tesco Finest Murray Darling Pinot Grigio 10.5% €7.99
Surprisingly, I found this a much more satisfying drink than the Tim Adams. Again, the colour was strawy and it has a moderately pronounced aromatic nose. In the mouth, it tasted fruity, mainly grapefruit. It was crisp and clean and dry but not at all jaw-locking.
The info given says the heart of this wine “comes from Block 3”, “an exceptional growing area close to the Mildura, which has a long history of wine production “. PR: 6
Adria Pinot Grigio (Italy) 2009 12.5% RRP: €9.49
Colour of this recent Wine Alliance import is quite pale while the nose is mildly aromatic, hints of lemons. On the palate, it gives up an inviting citrusy crispness, lemons and grapefruit for me, and is fresh and dry on the finish.
It is pretty close to the traditional. From the Venezia region, the wine has been bottled young after a period of 3 to 6 months aging on fine lees in stainless steel tanks. The best Muscadet is sur lies and the practice hasn’t done any harm at all to this Pinot Grigio. PR: 7.5%
Actually, I didn't get to finish the bottle as my wife was so taken with the wine, she grabbed the half-full bottle on her way to a family visit. While they were watching the X-Factor, I did have the consolation of polishing off the evening with Grand Marinier, one of my favourite liquors, while keeping an eye on Match of the Day.
