SAVOUR KILKENNY - THE REPORT

THE CON-FOODERATION OF KILKENNY 2010
Read Bibliocook's account of a great day for foodies....

TWO FROM CAHORS - ONE A GOLD MEDAL WINNER

CAHORS RAID NETS TWO GOOD 'UNS

One day last June, made a trip through the Cahors Vineyards. Started by visiting a couple of sleepy villages, got lost in the middle and ended up by purchasing a couple of cases in Parnac. 

In the bastide town of Montcabrier, pigeons cooed while children babbled contentedly in the school. More sounds of contentment in Duravel where the local café was doing quite a lunch-time trade.

A meander in the Lot

Then onto the River Lot and the quayside of Puy-L’Eveque, once a river port. Fine views here of the river and the old town and vineyards in the near distance. Views kept getting better. High up in Belaye, we had stunning views of both the Lot and Cahors Valley.

And even that was outdone when we called to nearby Albas which overlooks the Lot from a cliff. A few kilometres outside the two we got a magnificent view as the river formed a huge U shape in the valley below.

Despite the sign, was lost when I took this one

Then passed through the ancient Cathar fiefdom of Luzech and its imposing 12^th century keep before getting down to business in the little village of Parnac. Here the Cave Cooperative du Vignoble de Cahors (you see Les Cotes d’Olt on the signs) have a massive cave with a fine shop.

After a few tastings we settled on a Château Les Bouysses 2002 (€7.40 a bottle) and a Cotes D’OIt Malbec 2005 (€4.00), some rewards for a hard slog in the car.

Cotes D’OIt Cahors Malbec 2008: Aroma of black fruits and a deep red colour from this 100% Malbec. On the palate, it is well endowed with fruit, plum especially, and tannins enough to dry gums but nothing extreme. It is well balanced, velvety, almost creamy. There may well be more to come from it as “Good potential for aging” is written on the back label. 

PR: 7.5

Chateau Les Bouysses 2002, Cahors 2002: This won a Gold Medal in Macon in 2005 and is a blend of mainly Malbec (Auxerrois) and Merlot and boasts on the front label that is has been in oak: “Eleve en fut de chene.”

The nose is of black plum and cherries and the colour is red going on black. It is juicy and well flavoured with an adequate amount of tannin and hints of its time in oak. Supple with a decent weight and a good finish, there is very little not to like about this one. PR: 8.5

BREHENY’S BELLISH

BREHENY’S BELLISH

The Bellish is a play on embellish. They say: “The clover embellishes the land. We embellish your plate.”Maybe it sounds better in the Gaeltacht where the company is based.

But relish or bellish, I have no argument. Got some of their slow cooked red onion relish when I visited their stall recently and it sure went very well with some cheese I had to hand.

But Conall Breheny’s West Cork outfit have quite a range and are well regarded and some of their products have figured on national award lists in recent years. Worth a look and worth keeping an eye on. Could well emBellish your plates in the future.

Unit 6, Udaras Na Gaeltachta, Ballyvourney. 087 9477669
www/brehenysbellish.com

Check out my review of Breheny's Bellish - I am cork - on Qype

WELCOME TO THE MART

Guest post by Deirdre Shaughnessy - see her blog at http://deshocks.wordpress.com/

We’re not in Kashmir anymore, Toto

*Burgers*Chips*Curry*Salad*Cans*Chicken*

… Ponies…

… Toys…

… Carpets…

… Liquid Viagra (Free! Today only!)…

… Chickens…

… Work boots…

Welcome to the Mart. A Bank Holiday Monday Mart.

Only on Bank Holidays does the Mart – what Orla Kiely fans would call a farmers’ market, until they experience it in all its tacky, mucky, jumble sale glory – really come into its own.

Wizened, hunched-up streethawkers who could be in Kandahar or Kilmallock, dirty-looking old men, trousers held up with twine,  chubby, rosy-cheeked welly-wearing children with tracksuited knees smeared in cow dung… all of rural life is here and most of it ain’t as pretty as Fáilte Ireland would have you believe.

Knobbly carrots? You want 'em, we've got 'em.

Organic apples, smoked cheese, crepes and knobbly, mucky, GIY looking carrots? Down the road at the food fair, along with the Thai food stall, the gourmet sausages and the substantial burgers that appear altogether more sanitary than the greasy patties from the ancient, grumbling chip van at the gate.

This stuff is serious. Up here is where you’ll find jeeps used for their intended purpose; transporting greyhounds and baling twine, old reels of wire and bags of calfnuts. Most of them predate their shiny Celtic Tiger four-by-four cousins down near the food fair.

The real farmers, sour faced, capped, quiet men, are inside by the parade ring, fiercely concentrating on the mumble-whine of cattle prices and the tracing of who’s who, who’s where, and what’s where it shouldn’t be.

Who’s sold sites; who’s in a bit of trouble with the Department, and who’s waiting for their payment or doubling their quota. Organic apples, indeed.

While business is done inside the fun goes on outside. Travellers, pitched up for the last few days in case they’d lose their spot, are busy checking ponies’ teeth and eyeing up disturbed-looking chickens in their windblown cage at the gate. Terrier pups peer from inside ripped, ripoff Nike tracksuit tops, their teenage owner carrying a cane (all the rage these days) in his free hand.

Asian tradesmen by way of Roscommon are flogging  ’Adidas’ tracksuits and  ‘Dior’ mugs to a highly suspect – but pennywise – public. The type of public that kicks tyres and stretches seams before so much as offering a price, this is the buyer they’ve been used to at home, and there is no  surprise at being offered half the stated price for anything. Bargains is bargains, and they know they’re not in Kashmir anymore.

It's been a long time since that lorry accident.

Hollywood movies three for €15, battered and faded cover images of gallants and ghouls – for the season that’s in it – and even a few rare as hen’s teeth videos stacked away in the corner, for the older customer, or perhaps because the lorry they fell off had its accident a few years ago now.

Roaring trade at a stall, staffed by at least two generations of Traveller women, selling buckets, rugs and other household ware. With Chanel and Dior logos on them. For a moment I stop, taken by the beige bucket with the black Chanel double C stickers carefully dotted around them. For a joke, like. But I don’t need a bucket.

It wasn't as nice as the Chanel bucket, but there was always a handbag to be had.

Trade is alright, they tell me. Not great. But then, I might be a garda with that many questions. So, unless I’m buying that bucket, there’s no conversation to be had. The Travellers are more chatty than the foreigners, but they too can spot a mere observer. That jingle in my pocket is likely to stay there – my jeans and Converse give me away as a food fair native and merely a curio tourist at their show.

They don’t seem to mix, really, but it’s hard to see who does. They stick to their own patch; not like the food fair where the fudge man is busily quaffing the spiced apple juice of his neighbour and ignoring the middle-aged woman (two dogs, and plenty of money – the real salesmen down at the mart would’ve pounced on her) eyeing up his fudge.

The Eastender selling liquid Viagra like a Wild West snakeoil salesman, is armed with a smooth patter and amplified with a collar mic, to add to wild gesticulation and an unnerving habit of casting luminous-packaged products like pearls before the assembled hysterics. He’s selling  ’designer’ perfume too, “Twenty pounds only today!”

An Alfie Moon-alike, he’d want to watch out before the lad at the IRA stall beside him gives him a clatter for his lack of awareness that we are in a Republic. Four flags, some unfamiliar but all guaranteed 100% Republican,  ‘Ra songs playing on loudspeaker and multiple copies of the Proclamation in lurid frames testify that business is booming on the green market.

This, then, is country life.

ARTISAN CATERER

BARRIE TYNER

“Freshly made artisan pâtés using the best sourced local ingredients and a splash of the good stuff.”

That is the pride and joy of artisan caterer Barrie Tyner. And he lets you know. The queue at a food launch in the English market stopped alongside where Barrie was showing his wares and he almost stuffed me full of that pate. Not that I was complaining. It is delicious.

You won't find Barry normally in the English market but don't; worry. He is a regular ion Mahon Point (Thursdays) and in Midleton (Saturdays).  “That is where you’ll find me, tasting the living daylights out of every passing foodie!” I know, I know.

Tanglewood, Lover’s Walk, Cork 087 630 6761

http://www.localmarkets.ie/Cork-Local-Producers/Barrie-Tyner-Artisan-Caterer-c208/

Vittorio Castellani Visit

Italian food journalist Vittorio Castellani, who recently visited restaurants and markets in the Cork area, is currently doing a similar trip in Brazil’s Sao Paulo, particularly taking in the tastes of il Mercado Municipal. While here, he fell in love with seafood chowder and declared it his favourite Irish food.

He was in touch recently to say that the results of his trip to Cork will appear in the magazines he works for sometime in the Near Year. He has promised to contact the restaurants and myself when they appear,  so watch this space!

BRENDAN’S VEGGIES BURRITOS and BURGERS

BRENDAN’S VEGGIES BURRITOS and BURGERS
Fast (well, fairly fast) Food stalls did a roaring trade during the weekend Jazz festival. I found myself in the queue at Brendan’s Veggies Burritos and Burgers and ended up with one of his Burritos. This was one packed piece of stuff, probably equivalent to in poundage to any lunch plate around town and all for just a fiver.

These are apparently the real thing: Authentic Mexican/American Veggie Burritos Made with all Natural and only high quality ingredients. Sure tasted good and hot and needed a drink afterwards (Not that spicy mind you!)

Brendan operates his All Vegetarian Hot Food Market Stall based mainly in Cork, and can also be found at Festivals throughout the year. Markets covered include the City, Clonakilty and Blackrock. In addition, his frozen burritos are available at O’Driscoll’s (Ballinlough), Natural Choice (Paul St), O’Keeffe’s (St Luke’s) and An Tobrain (Bandon).

AUGUSTINE'S JAZZ MENU

AUGUSTINE’S

Jazz group It Takes 3 entertained us while chef Brendan Cashman fed us well at Augustine’s on Sunday night.

His €45.00 Jazz menu kicked off with a Bloody Mary and ended with a glass of the excellent house Port.

Enjoyed my well presented starter of Boudin of Clonakilty Black Pudding, Cauliflower Purée Salad of Spiced Apricot & Pané Quail’s Egg, Pancetta Crisp and Cider Glaze. Clon Boudin may not have featured on recent list of French prize-winners but this was certainly excellent.

Excellent also was the other starter at the table: Pan Seared Goose Foie Gras, Pear Purée, Port Soaked Baby Plum, Confit Almonds and Brioche. Other starters on the list were Pan Seared Fillet of Sea Trout and also a Wild Mushroom and Truffle Soup.

Main course was Braised Prime Ballea Farm Short Rib with a confiture of Red Pepper and Shallots, Sauce Marchaud de Vins and Triple Cooked Pommes Frites. This local meat just fell away from the bones, quite a treat. But be warned, a lot of fat comes with this cut.

The other main courses were Madeira Braised Belly of West Cork Pork, Pan Roast Fillet of Hake, Pan Roast Gnocchi and Cabernet Poached Tail of Monkfish.

Then for the cheese which was Bleu d’Auvergne and Poached Pear. I really liked this but not everyone does. I wasn't being too nosy but noticed two couple at adjacent tables, the first pair struggled with it while the second didn't touch it.

And much the same happened on my last visit here when the sole cheese was Bleu de Bresse. And in fairness, Augustine’s aren't the only restaurant putting blue cheese up – I enjoyed some from Cashel in Nautilus recently. Perhaps, with all the brilliant local cheeses available, a choice could be made available to those who baulk at the blue.

By the way, that cheese plate looked like a work of art and my dessert, Roast Autumn Fruits with Mascarpone Ice-cream, also looked well and, more importantly, tasted divine. Other desserts were Vanilla Infused Crème Brûlée and a Mocha Chocolate Tart.

There is of course quite a list of wines here, three red available by the glass, ranging from €5.00 to €7.00. We had some Spanish Langa Garnacha Syrah and Australian Pepperton Estates Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend.

All in all, the food was so good, you almost forgot about the trio playing in the restaurant. But they were really excellent and their music and singing added to the occasion. Augustine’s may not be set up for it but isn’t there a vacancy for a classy dine and cabaret venue in the city?

O'Flynn and Sons - Master Butchers

O’FLYNN’S BUTCHERS

O’Flynn’s Butchers in Marlboro Street may well be out of the shared limelight that the English Market endows on its tenants but, such is the quality of product and service that O’Flynn’s have maintained for decades, their customers will seek them out time and time again.

Called in there this Jazz Weekend Saturday and, after some banter and spot-on advice, left a happy customer. Happier again later on when that first class pork was on the plate Chez Moi. And some left over for sangers, as predicted by the man behind the counter.

John O’Flynn & Sons, Master Butchers, 36 Marlboro Street. 427 5685

Check out my review of John O'Flynn & Sons - I am cork - on Qype

BAKERY UNION

BAKERY UNION

Amazing the amount of new places springing up around town. Does it all point to a phoenix rising from the ashes of the Celtic pussycat?

Latest I spotted is the Elizabeth Kovacs’ Bakery Union in Marlboro Street. Got myself some coffee on the go there this jazzy day but then added a few tasty pastries to take home. They also do some tempting looking breads, of course! Including some that are gluten free.

Service is excellent, very friendly, loads of manners and smiles (which I like - who wouldn't?).

43 Marlboro Street. Tel: 086 2266642
bakeryunion@me.com

Check out my review of Bakery Union - I am cork - on Qype

ORGANIC REPUBLIC

ORGANIC REPUBLIC

Sampling their figs and dates in the English Market. That was how I met up with Organic Republic recently. Hadn’t even heard of this Caitriona Daunt and Willie Doherty outfit before but those dates and figs were delicious.

They do a whole range of fruits and veg and will deliver boxes to your door in Cork city and surrounds. You will see them at some Farmers Markets, including Mahon Point, and you may also check out their website for all the info. They are also part of the newly launched LocalMarkets.ie

Raleigh South, Macroom. -026 23888 and 086 3623918 and 087 9446794

www.organicrepublic.ie

MAN CAN'T LIVE ON JAZZ ALONE

NASH 19 

Lunchtime class

Made the first of two visits downtown today around lunchtime - the second will be to the Opera House and one, maybe two, jazz venues later on.

No jazz this time but Nash 19 was buzzing. Service was fantastic, as usual, and I thoroughly enjoyed my Jack McCarthy  aged beef. Plaice was the other choice at the table and that too was top notch. Dessert was a light and easy but delightful Strawberry Cheesecake. Terrific food, terrific restaurant.

Also made an initial call to Electric and there is still a fair old buzz there as the final touches are being put to the restaurant upstairs and to the exterior. The bar though looks smashing; loads of comfy seating and no shortage of staff either.

Great to meet entrepreneurs Denis O’Mullane and Ernest Cantillon and also Aidan Cotter from Heineken, making sure that Guinness weren't having it all their own way this Jazz weekend. Also met the lads from the Roaring Forties, including saxophonist Ken Marshall , who had an exciting morning, including photoshoots at Electric and a fire alarm while in 96FM for the Prendeville show.

PUMPKIN PIE

See recipe on pages (right) or just click here