Taste of the Week
Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AC) 2022, 12.5% ABV
RRP €20.95. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork
the ideal choice to kick off an evening
This Gentil, a traditional blend originating in the 1920s, captures all the magic of each component part. This 2022 vintage comprises Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Riesling (mostly) and Gewurztraminer.
Gentil is made from the estate’s white grape varieties. It is not hit-and-miss. You are not allowed to throw in just any old grape. It is done carefully, to a very high and controlled official standard.
It’s the ideal choice to kick off an evening as it makes a delightful aperitif. Later in the evening, importers Le Caveau recommend it with umami-focused dishes, like Sushi. It lends itself to sweet and aromatic spices, from North African to Indian/Pakistani and South East Asian. “Truly Versatile!”
It has a beautiful, clean golden colour. It is quite aromatic, with apple, pear, and a touch of sweetness (from the Muscat), and draws you in. And so it continues in the mouth with a beautiful balance and texture. The subtle fruit notes and, again, that persistent honey-suckle-like sweetness engage your senses right through the lingering finish.
I have been enjoying this for years now, and once again, it is Very Highly Recommended.
***************
Check out our Top 2023 Wines here.
***************
Check out the Good Value Wine List here
***************
On the craft trail with a gluten-free double and a juicy ale. Wicklow Wolf, Lough Gill, Third Barrel
Wicklow Wolf Arcadia GF Lager 4.3% ABV, 440 ml can https://wicklowwolf.com/shop/
“Slowly conditioned to ensure an exceptional taste”
Lovely gold/amber colour on this lager, with a soft white head. Great display of bubbles rising. Aromas are more malt than hop. Straightaway, you notice the refreshing edge, “great cutting in it”, as was said some decades back! But it has. Smooth also with a subtle balance of fruit and hop, a little sweetness and a hint of spice. Add in that crisp finish. What more could you want?
They say: We are locally rooted and at one with nature, brewing beers in a sustainable way. Slowly conditioned to ensure an exceptional taste, this is a smooth, refreshing lager with a hint of sweetness and spice. It is finely balanced with fruit and floral notes. Subdued maltiness throughout with a crisp finish.
The recipe seems to have changed a bit over the past few years. The hops now are Ariana and Huell Melon, with the latter taking the place of Hallertau Tradition, while the Munich is an addition to the malt bill. But the gluten-free lager is an excellent one and Very Highly Recommended.
Lough Gill Breakers Gluten Free Pale Ale, 4.2% ABV, 440 ml can Matsons
smooth and very enjoyable ale
Breakers, a gluten free Pale Ale by Sligo’s Lough Gill Brewery, has a clear light amber colour with micro-bubbles galore rising to the frothy head. It certainly looks inviting, and the looks here do not deceive!
The aromatics continue the “come-on”, notes of tropical fruits, pine and a hint of grapefruit. More of the same on the palate of this smooth and very enjoyable ale.
The independent craft brewery has employed Mosaic and Chinook hops with Irish Pale Malt to good effect here, and the easy-drinking beer is Very Highly Recommended.
Third Barrel Shut Up Juice Juicy Pale Ale, 5.0% ABV, 440 ml can Bradley's Cork
seriously juicy, seriously fruity, seriously crushable.
Seriously juicy, seriously fruity, seriously crushable. That was the hook from Third Barrel when they released this Shut Up Juice a few years back.
The colour is light orange with a white foamy head. The aromas, not quite as big as expected, feature pineapple and citrus. But the flavours are seriously exotic: passionfruit, pineapple, and mango, a delicious melange that takes you all the way to a refreshing finish.
It has been double dry hopped with New World hops Vic Secret (Australia) and Citra (USA), enough to give a balancing streak of bitterness. Highly Recommended.
Third Barrel, based in Dublin, claims to be “a unique concept, a collaboration brewery between Stone Barrel Brewing and Third Circle Brewing, who have combined their experience, resources, love for brewing, and absolute passion for beer to create one of Ireland's most cutting-edge breweries.” Founded in 2015, they make a wide range of beer and sell it all over Europe.
Emiliana Novas Riesling Gran Reserva 2021 Val Del Bio Bio (DC) Chile, 13.50% ABV
€16.95 O’Briens Wine
stunningly complex and a real deal at this price!
This organic Chilean Riesling from Bio Bio* is clear golden yellow in colour. It features lifted aromas of apple, pear, and lime, a waft of diesel (common in Rieslings wines the Bio Bio Valley, one of Chile’s most southern wine regions) and a hint of honeysuckle sweetness.
The palate is full of flavour, but the limey acidity helps maintain balance through to the persistent finish. This expressive wine is Highly Recommended. While the diesel aroma can be off-putting in some Rieslings, it is very modest here and not bothersome at all.
According to O’Briens, with its fresh acidity, this off-dry style Riesling pairs perfectly with Asian cuisine. It also complements oysters, shellfish, white meats, smoked salmon, and vegetarian dishes.
Emiliana is the world’s largest organic winery, noted for its Cabernet Sauvignon. The Guilisasti family, a significant shareholder in Concha Y Toro, is the majority shareholder here.
Riesling is far from being the most popular white wine in South America. Chile leads with 820 acres, while Argentina has 219. These figures are minuscule compared to Germany, which grows over 60,000 acres, about 40% of world production.
* Bio Bio is in Chile’s most southern wine area. A little further on, you’ll see penguins and icebergs. In the cool Bio Bio, the most popular grapes grown are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is now being recognised, according to Wines of South America, as "an excellent spot for the aromatic white varieties, notably Riesling". Our bottle delivers further proof of the statement.
Market Lane Knows Its Onions
I’ve been enjoying the French Onion Soup at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and was served as a fantastic starter during my lunch last week at the Oliver Plunkett Street location.
This enjoyable experience got me thinking about how many Irish restaurants serve this famous dish, which Raymond Blanc describes as “a Frenchman’s heaven.”
 |
| At the market! |
He shares a few tips for making the soup, which originated in eighteenth-century Paris as a beef broth topped with caramelised onions. Now often served without the beef, Raymond emphasises that the quality of the onions is crucial. He prefers using Rose de Roscoff onions and suggests floating croutons on top with some grated two-year-old Comté cheese.
Raymond, a renowned chef at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons—a hotel restaurant in Great Milton, Oxfordshire—is one of many supporters of this iconic soup.
 |
| Chicken |
Delia Smith enthuses: “If ever there was a winter stomach warmer, this is surely it! There are few things more comforting than making a real French onion soup—slowly cooked, caramelised onions that turn mellow and sweet in a broth laced with white wine and Cognac.”
I sourced some Roscoff onions from Bryn Perrin of West Cork Garlic a few years ago at the weekly Friday market in Bantry. Back home, we combined a recipe from Nigel Slater with one from an undated French cookbook, *A Taste of France*. The soup, topped with baguette slices and Gruyère cheese, was a delight—packed with enticing aromas and satisfying flavors.
In earlier years, Market Lane used Gruyère for the cheese, but I’m glad they now choose Coolea. In 2015, Kate Lawlor, then chef/patron at Fenn's Quay, used Gubbeen cheese with her croutons.
 |
| Crispy Duck |
At that time, the Market Lane French Onion Soup cost €5.95, but it is now ten euros. It's still worth every cent and remains delicious, full of standout flavours; I especially love the added Coolea cheese and croutons. I’ll always be on the lookout for that one.
Last week, I was also eager to try a newer dish—Arroz Marinera, which features bomba rice, prawns, mussels, squid, haddock, leeks, and white wine, accompanied by garlic aioli and crispy toast. It had been highlighted on their Instagram on Wednesday, but unfortunately, it wasn’t available during Thursday’s service.
This meant a second look at the menu and a change of plans. I considered the Korean bulgogi steak sandwich served on a sourdough baguette with chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, and lime mayo with house chips (below). I had enjoyed it relatively recently and can recommend it.
 |
| Korean bulgogi steak sandwich |
Ultimately, I chose their Five-Spiced Crispy Duck in a brioche bun with cabbage, pak choi, carrot slaw, hoisin aioli, and house chips, which turned out to be delicious. The spice was noticeable but not overpowering.
Meanwhile, CL was delighted with her Roast Marinated Chicken, accompanied by thyme-buttered root vegetables, braised cabbage, creamy mash, and gravy. Although it wasn't groundbreaking, these classic dishes can sometimes be just as satisfying as more modern offerings.
Both plates were filling, leaving little room for dessert—certainly not for the generously portion of Orange and Vanilla Bread and Butter Pudding served with custard and whipped cream, a long-standing favourite here.
Lastly, I want to commend all the servers. It was a busy lunchtime, and they handled everything superbly throughout the service.
Beer of the Week: Whitefield Old Smoke Porter, 5.4% ABV
500 ml bottle Bradleys
Explore the dark, delightful depths of an exceptional brew!
Delve into the dark depths of Whitefield’s Old Smoke porter, an exceptional brew by Cuilán Loughnane that stands as a testament to the art of balance in craft beer.
With its pitch-black pour and tantalising smoky aroma accented with a hint of bacon, this beer invites you into a world where every sip is a joy. The mastery of blending mellow roasted flavours with subtle smokiness results in a drinking experience that's both complex and harmoniously balanced. That’s why this standout porter has earned our Beer of the Week title and a Very Highly Recommended rating.
Whitefield says: Traditionally, beers made in the midlands would have had a slight smokiness due to the malt being dried from peat fires; this stout brings out that combination of smoke and roast while remaining light on the palate. Beer is a fantastic ingredient to use in cooking (and baking). A family favourite is an Old Smoke Stout Stew.
Smoked beer is mostly associated with Germany and the beautiful city of Bamburg. Here, two breweries, Schlenkerla (widely available in Ireland) and Spezial (not as often seen in Ireland), continue the centuries-old tradition and cross-town rivalry. Another German tradition is Schwarzbier, a black beer without the smoke!
Whitefield (formerly White Gypsy) is a brewery in Templemore, County Tipperary. Cuilán Loughnane is the main person here, and according to Sláinte (2014), his fingerprints “are all over the Irish brewing scene”.
Sláinte also outlines his prior experience, starting at Dwan’s Brewery (Thurles) in 1997. He then served as head brewer at Dublin’s Messrs Maguire (predecessors of J.W. Sweetman) from 2002 before establishing his own venture as White Gypsy in 2009. White Gypsy was renamed Whitefield a couple of years back.
Calling All Aspiring Chefs! Bag your hands-on experience at Trigon Hotels' Open Kitchen Week.
 |
| Alex Petit |
Do you dream of whipping up culinary masterpieces in a professional kitchen? Well, aspiring chefs in Cork, this is your chance to realise those dreams!
The renowned Trigon Hotel Group is opening its kitchens for Open Kitchen Week, a unique initiative that allows visitors to experience the electrifying world of professional cookery firsthand.
Get a taste of the real deal! From November 11th to 17th, the illustrious Cork International Hotel and the Metropole Hotel will welcome passionate hopefuls like yourself for an unforgettable culinary adventure.
Here's why you shouldn't miss this:
Chef Alex Petit, Executive Head Chef of the Trigon Group and a culinary maestro himself is a huge advocate for Open Kitchen Week. "This is a fantastic opportunity for aspiring chefs to see what a professional kitchen is all about," he says. "Our team at Trigon Hotels is passionate about fostering talent, and Open Kitchen Week lets you experience the energy and creativity firsthand. Last year's participants were blown away, and I can't wait to welcome the next generation of culinary stars!”
Photo via Pixabay
Ready to embark on your culinary journey? Head over to https://openkitchen.ie/kitchensignup to book your slot and secure your spot in this exciting event. See you there!
Based on media release.
Visit to the Anglers Rest sparks Schnitzel odyssey
Some unusual versions: Quail (Tannery) and Cod Tail (Goldie)
Last week’s lunch call to the Anglers Rest set me off on a Schnitzel odyssey. The Leemount had a beef version on offer, which is a bit unusual as Schnitzel is mostly made with veal or pork.
 |
| Jacques |
Schnitzel, the beloved breaded cutlet traditionally associated with Austria and Germany, has won the hearts of food lovers worldwide. Locally, this versatile dish has found a niche in several restaurants, each offering its unique take on this culinary classic.
From the traditional veal schnitzel to innovative variations like quail and cod tail, local restaurants have enthusiastically embraced the schnitzel. Here's a look at some of the schnitzel dishes I've encountered over the past year or two.
 |
| The Tannery's quail. |
Schnitzel, a speciality in Austria and Germany, consists of tenderised meat coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden and crispy. To be classified as Wiener Schnitzel, it must be made with veal, while your regular Schnitzel is frequently made with pork or chicken. So, the beef option was quite unique, yet I recalled other “irregular” versions.
Goldie’s Cod Tail Schnitzel is another out-of-the-ordinary choice. That dish featured soy-cured egg yolk, complemented by celeriac and gherkin remoulade, which enhances the flattened cod, resulting in a delightful explosion of flavours.
 |
| Sea Church, Ballycotton. Plenty of "moisture", the way I like my Schnitzel |
The Tannery's version was quail schnitzel, served with green peppercorn and wild garlic butter alongside seasonal vegetables. The schnitzel was excellent, and the butter relevated the dish to a stellar level.
Jacques offered Chicken Schnitzel with white cabbage, pickled vegetables, rustic potatoes, and a gorgeous "My Goodness" red cabbage. This dish was delicious, further enhanced by the crunchy cabbage and the tangy pickled elements.
Westport’s Pantry & Corkscrew created this gem: Herb-Crusted Andarl Farm Free-Range Pork Schnitzel, Pancetta and parmesan Cream, Potato, Fennel, and Butternut Hash. Crispy and tasty, full of flavour and texture, the potato and sauce enhanced the whole dish. Sad to say, the restaurant closed earlier this year.
Harrow in Killarney had an excellent version: Pork Schnitzel, Celeriac Purée, Herb and Parmesan Dressing, Celeriac Slaw with Jus. Served with a German potato salad, it turned out to be a hearty, flavoursome dish.
 |
| Schnitzel with mushroom sauce. Pic via Pixabay. |
Sea Church in Ballycotton served a crispy-coated chicken filet schnitzel with chicken gravy, hand-cut chips, and Caesar-dressed leaves. For an extra euro, you could add a delicious pizza-style topping of chorizo and cheese.
During a trip to Macroom in May, I thoroughly enjoyed Granville’s Continental-style chicken schnitzel—a golden-crumb breast of Irish chicken. It came with a generous helping of mushroom sauce, a traditional accompaniment on the continent.
 |
| Beef Schnitzel at The Anglers Rest. |
Back now to the Anglers and their Beef version with Roast Cranberries, Caper Butter Sauce, Parmesan, Rocket, plus Salad and Fries (€24.00). It was quite a combination and enjoyable, but I would have loved some of the old hearty mushroom sauce! Or even a rich gravy.
My colleague (a big fan of their Fish and Chips) enjoyed their 48 Hour Pork Belly with Creamy Potatoes, Confit Carrots, Pickled Apple & Mustard Rosemary Jus (€23.00). The venue was quite busy and the service was friendly and efficient.
 |
| Pork Belly |
* As these schnitzel dishes were enjoyed over the past year or so, they may not all be available on current menus.
