Day 11
Joan of Arc and the Fortress of
Chinon.
Bourgueil Market.
Here in Chinon, where I am based, there is a remarkable fortress
with a remarkable history. It includes the Plantagenets. Eleanor of Aquitaine
was imprisoned here by her husband Henry II but the woman that dominates the
story of the fortress even though she spent just a few days here is Joan of Arc,
the teenager who put an end to the awful 100 Years War.
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| The town of Chinon (and the River Vienne) as seen from the fortress |
In February 1429, in this very fortress in Chinon (began in
the 10th century), she persuaded
the disinherited French king Charles VII to stand up for himself or at least to
let her stand up for him and for France. He agreed and it made a king of him
and a martyr of Joan who was captured by the Burgundians and handed over to the
English who engineered, with church cooperation, her burning at the stake for
heresy.
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| Here be dragons! A summer exhibition in the fortress. Even Nessie is here. |
Twenty five years later, the verdict was overturned by an inquisitorial
court and the rehabilitation has been going on ever since. The Maid of Orleans,
who lived to be just 19, is the French patriot and has been used worldwide as
an example of patriotism.
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| No shortage of cabbage plants at the market |
The morning was much more peaceful. Then, we headed up the
road to nearby Bourgueil (about 13 km) for the weekly market there. It was
packed. It is spread over the main street, some adjoining ones and also takes
in a smallish hall. All over the place
and hard (not impossible!) to get a
handle on it as food stalls are mixed in with those selling clothes, shoes,
knives, and so on.
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| A local goat cheese. "Drink with dry wine!" |
We had no bother filling bags. Got lots of local fruit
including delicious melons. Also a local goat cheese, after a taste and with some
friendly advice to eat it with a dry wine. Lunch too was covered, mine a crispy
tasty mille feuille with ham and cheese. Met the man with the beer and wine
that we’d seen last week in Chinon and went off with some beer and a large
bottle of gorgeous apple juice.
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| The boys at the bar, a very popular market stall. |
Had been hoping to pick up a good ready-made meal at the
market but they seemed in short supply so we fell back on our local traiteur in
Chinon and now have a Pork Curry in the fridge for dinner, along with some other
bits and pieces that will cover starter and dessert from Bourgueil. A bottle of local beer is nearing
its end and a bottle of local wine is about to be opened.
The sun too has made an appearance this afternoon after a hazy
morning that promised mist but delivered zilch. Looks like dining al fresco
this evening.
