Whiskey Chats Second Anniversary Celebrated In Style
Distillers dropped in from Paris and Boston and places in between to the Whiskey Chats Second Anniversary Zoom party, all looking for feedback as their spirits were an essential part of the recent celebration of Laurie O’Dwyer's podcast achievements.
Not alone did they get good feedback but there was much praise for the likes of Maurice O'Connell of Lakeview, for the inspiring and influential Fionnán O’Connor, and for the O’Donovan brothers of Irish Malts, all for their efforts to promote Irish spirits .
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| Lakeview, with the Hilly Field in the background. |
O’Connell, a direct descendant of the great Daniel O’Connell, has a series of well appreciated Liberator spirits to his credit but the last few days have been special as his Lakeview Estate Single Pot Still has become available to try and was one of the eight spirits (there were eleven drinks in all) tasted during the celebration.
The barley was grown on his own land by the Lakes of Killarney in the Hilly Field. Harvested in 2018, it was malted in Naas and distilled in 2019 by Great Northern before being matured in a mixture of Bourbon and Bordeaux casks with 20% peated. “The sample (46% abv) is a rough cut,” he said. “More to be done, I have a group of tasters working on it.”
Already the colour is fantastic and the feeling in the party group was that this will fly off the shelves when released. And there will be more!
On the day following the celebration, Maurice posted a tweet: “The Whiskey cycle continues... Ploughing (underway in) the Hilly Field in advance of planting the Barley for our Lakeview #SingleEstate #PotStill #Whiskey. Only 5/6 years to wait before pouring!”
James Doherty of Sliabh Liag in Donegal told us all about our sample of Cask Strength Midnight Silkie. The abv here by the way is around 70% and James cautioned: “Add a touch of water!”
Its backbone is in the grain. It has been raised in casks, virgin oak and French red wine included, but James reckoned it is the influence of the Imperial Stout casks from Sligo’s White Hag brewery that gives this Silkie its creaminess. He pointed to the quite earthy smoke, “ a signature of our style" plus that signature softness in the mouth. “Big apple roundness, fresh and zingy.” “Aromas of cream soda”, said Laurie.
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| Onscreen: James from Sliabh Liag from Boston |
Waterford Distillery have a “sister” distillery in the Caribbean island of Grenada and, as you might expect, there is a big emphasis on terroir. And Waterford’s Ned confirmed that as he introduced the 50% Renegade Rum. “It is made with fresh sugar cane… there are no delays in distilling… the results are very different depending on what farm the cane comes from. It is a new distillery, an amalgamation of countries involved and commissioning was delayed by Covid 19.”
"The rum has an unusual nose, pungent, very different and it takes a lot of getting used to. Fruity, tropical, even stewed fruits (the stuff from the cask is mind-blowing).”
Quite a few, but not all, participants agreed on tomato soup for those aromas, that I found it funky and edgy. Mango was among the tropical fruits on the palate and this impressive rum had a dry finish. Ned was standing in for Waterford’s Mark Reynier who did check in later in the evening from Paris.
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| One of the windows at the Pearse Lyons distillery in Dublin's Liberties |
Conor Ryan joined in from perhaps the country’s most beautiful distillery, Pearse Lyons in the Liberties. He had a Poitín New Make to tell us about. “A really fun project. It is produced with 100% own-grown grain from Dundalk, distilled in Dublin on our Kentucky stills with our own yeast.”
Very smooth, no great heat but, at 65%, Conor advised adding a little water. For me, it was silky and spicy, fresher fruits and a hint of liquorice in the aromas. “Spicy, biscuity, crisp barley notes,” said Conor, “with a little strawberry sweetness.”
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| Killowen (via their website) |
The first break from the spirits (in a 3 hour plus session) saw Chris Hennessy introduce a canned cocktail called Ginger Sting. Based on an Aqua Vitae from an ancient recipe, you find notes of clove, nutmeg and mostly ginger. Light on carbonation, it is refreshing with a dry finish. And you can expect more of these “designer drinks” from Chris and Off the Cuffe.
John O’Donovan spoke about Cyber Monday Single Malt (46%), their collaboration with blenders JJ Corry. “It stands out for us. So much effort but the best of fun doing it. A great collaboration, something very different.” “A typical Bush fruit bomb, very smooth, fruity,” said Laurie.
There was lots of praise for Irish Malts for their operation and their keenly priced offerings to the whiskey drinker. “Great stuff!” “A powerhouse online service.” “Fresh approach.”
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| The morning after..... |
Boánn’s Michael Walsh had a New Make Light Distillate (63%, use a few drops of water!) for the party. Laurie questioned the small amount (1.25%) of Rye. But Michael explained that some grains, such as Rye, “become noticeable at low thresholds”.
It seems that the Meath distillery has a “secret” weapon. “We have a cooling coil in our stills.” Its settings can lead to the production of heavy, core or light distillate like the one we enjoyed. “I’m not aware of anyone else who has it. It is made by Green Engineering.”
Two beers were introduced during the evening, both excellent: the export version of Bambrick’s by Ballykilcavan and Batch Four of last year’s favourite Flora and Fauna from County Clare’s Western Herd whose brewer Bridger Kelleher was delighted with the “good vibes the beer got from the whiskey community”.
Ballykilcavan have been making quite a contribution to Irish Whiskey. Their barley is used by Waterford while Irish Distillers have used their oak to make a limited amount of casks (for Dair Ghaelach). More on these two beers in our regular Quart of Ale posts. Along with the spirits and the beers, we had a few well rendered songs too by Paul Costello.
Brendan Carty from the Killowen Distillery in Newry introduced his 68% spirit: “..this is by far our best distillate, so much fruit, pears and apple, reduce the peat factor”. It is surprisingly palatable.
Brendan went on to praise the influential Fionnán O’Connor: “We owe him so much”, an opinion endorsed by Laurie: “Fair play to him for his passion”.
By the time we got to the Mulroy Bay, made by the Baoilleach Distillery in Donegal, the question of whether Irish Whiskey should use peat or turf as a term was boiling and Baoilleach’s Michael O’Boyle threw another sod in the fire with the word móna!
And Michael disclosed that their turf comes from a nearby bog and that they also get a blacker peat from a relation’s bog and that there is a good interaction between the two types.
The distillery should have good news shortly about an upgrade that will take them “from the amateur league to the top division”.
Going by the range of spirits tasted at this celebration that top division is going to be very competitive indeed and the best of luck to all contenders. No doubt, the third anniversary of Whiskey Chats will give us the state of play again in a year’s time. In the meantime, thanks to Laurie and Sláinte to all.
* The celebration was recorded and a podcast is coming. Best keep an eye on Laurie’s twitter @whiskeychatspod
for the updates
