Check out this organic Verdicchio. Incredible quality. Italy's best-buy wine of all time?

Check out this Verdicchio. Organic. Incredible quality. Italy's best-buy wine of all time?

Colle Stefano Verdicchio Di Matelica (DOC), 12.5% ABV 

RRP: €19.25. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

‘Italy's best-buy of all time? Unbelievable quality for the price.”

That is a summation of this wine by Decanter.

Verdicchio may not immediately spring to mind when thinking of white wine grapes but it has a long history in Italy. According to legend, the invading Visigoths, on their way to sack Rome at the start of the 5th century, drank barrels of it to enhance their courage. 

There are two areas in the Marche* (central-eastern Italy) that are well known for their Verdicchio wines, the Jesi and the smaller more inland Matelica. The wines of coastal Jesi are the better known, more popular. But I’ve a grá for the Matelica version and it continues with this one!

Matelica is an inland area, higher and cooler, well in from the coast of the Adriatic. Importers Le Caveau say you could eat off the floor of the winery “and hygiene is very important when making this kind of white wine.... We love it this for its racy, stony and revitalising mouthfeel”. Sounds like a Sauvignon Blanc to me and indeed Le Caveau recommend using it like a Marlborough SB.

The colour of this organic wine is quite a light straw. Aromas are herby, grassy, and minerally, reminiscent indeed of Sauvignon Blanc. With its herbal tang, it is lively and refreshing on the palate, lime zesty with the tartness of green apples and quince. And, like many Italian wines, the crisp acidity means it is superb with food (seafood ready is a term I've heard used in connection with Verdicchio from this area). 

Very Highly Recommended.

And it's not just me and importers Le Caveau that are impressed. In 2013, the Decanter Italy supplement raved about it: “Italy's best-buy of all time? Unbelievable quality for the price.” 

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Grapes & Wines (2015), on Verdicchio, noted an "improvement in recent years", an improvement that brings better balance and structure. "It is typically Italian in that it relies on subtlety and texture rather than flamboyance...". They too are Matelica fans "whose wines are richer, rounder, more succulent yet still dry."

Eric Asimov, the famed NY Times wine writer, was very taken with the Colle Stefano. Writing of the 2020 vintage, he noted its “energy and electrifying acidity”, how it offered “plenty of texture and flavour”, and that “it made a lasting impression.”

Just wonder how well those comments went down in nearby Jesi!

Colle Stefano is located in near the mountain town of Castelraimondo on the border with Umbria. It is a family affair that has been making wine from organic grapes since 1995. Fabio Marchionni is in charge and he is strict in his application of organic techniques.

* How to pronounce Marche, via You Tube, here. 

A Duo of Highly Recommended White Wines: Sauvignon Blanc and Verdicchio

A Duo of Recommended White Wines: Sauvignon Blanc and Verdicchio.

Jacques Frelin “Les Carrons” Sauvignon Blanc Touraine (AOP) 2018, 13.5%, €16.60 Mary Pawle

For over thirty years now, Jacques Frelin has been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country from the Languedoc (where he is headquartered) to the Loire.

The Touraine appellation covers the centre of the Loire Valley. With Tours, its main city in the middle, it stretches from Blois in the east to close to Saumur in the west, with independent appellations (such as Chinon, Bourgueil and Vouvray) situated within its boundary. While some Chenin Blanc is planted here, Sauvignon Blanc is the most widely planted white and this Les Carrons (hand harvested grapes and matured on its lees) is rather special.

Light straw is the colour. Citrus notes in the aromas of moderate intensity, more exotic fruit too plus floral notes. Vibrant and fruity on the palate, impressive mouthfeel also, no shortage of acidity either. All in all, quite a harmonious organic wine, another excellent drop from M. Frelin. Very Highly Recommended.

Food pairings suggested include serving it as an aperitif or with a warm goats cheese salad or guinea fowl with truffles. Serve 10-12 degrees.

Belisario 'Vigneti del Cerro' Verdicchio di Matelica (DOC) 2016, 12.5%, €24.99

Fallon & Byrne; Cinnamon Cottage; Wineoline.ie

Verdicchio may not immediately spring to mind when thinking of white wine grapes but it has a long history in Italy. According to legend, the invading Visigoths, on their way to sack Rome at the start of the 5th century, drank barrels of it to enhance their courage. There are two areas in the Marches (central eastern Italy) that are well known for their Verdicchio wines, the Jesi and the smaller more inland Matelica. The wines of Jesi are the better known, more popular. But I’ve a grá for the Matelica version and it continues with this one! It would be nice to have an in-depth simultaneous tasting of both.

But back to the bottle at hand. This 100% Verdicchio is honey coloured, with orange and green tints. Beautiful aromatics, citrus notes prominent. Apple and zingy lemon on the palate, refreshing and lively acidity too along with a mineral character, harmonious all the way to the finalé. Soft mouthfeel too. Great balance of power and elegance and Very Highly Recommended.

The label confused me  a little:  "At 12 degrees celsius it is better, with all that is not red.” I think you can take it that the suggestion is that the Cerro goes well with white meat and fish dishes! Liberty Wines suggest hot appetizers, first courses or fish and the winery itself indicates it pairs well with Mussels and shallots.

This wonderfully fresh wine is produced by the Cantine Belisario, a co-operative founded in 1971 and the biggest producer of Verdicchio in Matelica. The climate here is more continental than in Castelli di Jesi and the combination of warm days and cool nights gives a longer growing season, and lovely aromatic qualities to the wines.

Two Amazing Whites from Italy.

When I started on this Italian odyssey,  using The Modern History of Italian Wine as my main guide, I was prepared to be impressed by the reds, less prepared to be bowled over by a couple of lesser-known whites. But it is well worth getting acquainted with this superb duo.

Colle Stephano Verdicchio di Matelica (DOC) 2015, 12.5%, €16.15 Le Caveau

Its lovely fruit acidity makes it lively and distinctive, and so good with food. This organic wine is produced in Matelica in Italy’s Marche. Matelica is an inland area, higher and cooler, well in from the coast of the Adriatic. 

Importers Le Caveau say you could eat off the floor of the winery “and hygiene is very important when making this kind of white wine. We love it this for its racy, stony and revitalising mouthfeel”. Sounds like a Sauvignon Blanc to me and indeed Le Caveau recommend using it like a Marlborough SB.

And its not just le Caveau that are impressed. In 2013, the Decanter Italy supplement raved about it: “Italy's best-buy of all time? Unbelievable quality for the price.” Just wonder how well that went down in nearby Jesi, another area well known for its Verdicchio!

Colour is quite a light straw. Aromas are herby, grassy, minerally, reminiscent indeed of Sauvignon Blanc. With its herbal tang, it is lively and refreshing on the palate, zesty with the sourness of green apples and quince. And, like many Italian wines, the crisp acidity means it is superb with food (sea-food ready is a term I've heard used in connection with Verdicchio from this area). Very Highly Recommended.

Terredora Di Paolo “Loggia Della Serra” Greco di Tufo (DOCG) 2015, 12.5%, €18.95 (€16.95 on offer) O’Brien’s

The grape is Greco (nothing to do with Greece, according to Vines and Wines) and the village is Tufo in Campania. The grape and the terroir here seem made for each other and the combination “gives Loggia Della Serra a particular complexity and personality”. Pair with fish, soups and tasty pasta and serve at 10 degrees.

The vineyard’s high opinion of this wine is widely shared. It is highlighted in Vino Italiano as a consistently accurate expression of the grape. It is not “… a long ager. …at its best one or two years from the vintage”. So my timing on this one is spot-on.

The recently published The Modern History of Italian Wine also has high praise for Terredora. “The vineyards are… among the best in Irpinia. Terredora cultivates indigenous grapes only.”

Colour is a light straw and the intense aromas feature white fruits and blossoms. The intensity is also on the palate, citrus notes here too and a rich minerality also prominent in this elegant and full-bodied wine. Definitely has that strong personality and a long dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

See also from this current Italian series:
Wines from Italy's Marche
Fontanafreddo, important player in Italian wine