Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Jean's everyday wine!

Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. 

Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Alsace (AC) 2017, 14% ABV

(c. €27.00)

For 13 generations, beginning in 1626, Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, in the heart of Alsace, has devoted all its resources to producing great Alsace wines. This is one of them based on one of their remarkable Alsace grape varieties, the Pinot Gris. Delicious when young, these reach their finest expressions after some years of ageing.

 

It has a beautiful light gold colour. Aromas are gentle, a mix of floral and fruit (peaches, pears) and flowers. It is full-bodied with a gorgeous fruity palate, subtle spices, and a long finish. A generous wine, an ideal partner at the table. Suggested pairings include terrines, shellfish, oily fish, smoked fish, in sauce and raw, sushi, white meats, sweetbreads, mushrooms, spicy and aromatic dishes, Asian cuisine … Versatile, isn’t it?

Very Highly Recommended.

At a Kinsale tasting this year, Jean Trimbach (right) started with the 2018 vintage of this Pinot Gris Reserve. He was at pains to emphasise that this is a French grape, distinct from Pinot Grigio!

The grape now known in Alsace as Pinot Gris is thought to have originated in the Burgundy region of France. It is a colour mutation of Pinot Noir, and has been known since the Middle Ages. For centuries, it was called Tokay d’Alsace In Alsace until in relatively recent times, Hungary and the EU put an end to that.

Grapes & Wines indicates that Pinot Gris can produce really good wines in many countries “but I still go back to Alsace to see what makes it tick” and points the finger at the climate. in Alsace where “long hang times are possible; you can pick late for dry or off-dry, and even later for sweet ones.”

In Germany, Pinot Gris is known as Grauburgunder. It is a popular grape in the Baden region and, just like Alsace, is used to make a variety of wines, from dry to sweet.

*************

Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

*************

Check out my Good Value Wine List here

***************

Jean Trimbach’s remarks on his Pinot Gris being a French grape rather than an Italian one is made with a smile but the popularity of the Italian wine must still be irksome to some degree.

Jean is rarely slow to push the cause of Alsace in the wider world. And he also had a crack at Burgundy in Kinsale. Jean, who has been in this sales/marketing role since 1985, is always quick to point to the advantages that Alsace has, particularly when it comes to the more famous French region. “We have more Grand Cru wines than Burgundy because they have no granite, no volcanic, no slate… We have them all!” That big smile followed!

Trimbach wines are widely available in Ireland. I don't have a list of stockists for this but Dublin's 64 Wine has it.

Trimbach Wines Shine in Kinsale Tasting. Founded in Alsace in 1626. "The family is still the soul."

Trimbach Wines Shine in Kinsale. Founded in Alsace in 1626. "The family is still the soul."

An iconic wine, at No 6 in the most searched for Riesling
on Wine-Searcher.com. Their Le Clos Sainte Hune is No 1

“I can retire slowly but I don't want to do it, even though the 13th and 14th generations of the family are now getting into it.” That was the legendary Jean Trimbach of the legendary Alsace family speaking, with a big smile,  during a tasting of his wines (organised by Bibendum Ireland) in The White House (Kinsale).

Hard to blame him for staying on: ”Long lazy lunches and dinners, with great food and wine. No need to leave.”  These are also the reasons why the younger generations get drawn into the family business which started in 1626.

"We are one of the largest vineyards in Alsace, in terms of hectares," said Jean.
 "But not in terms of production. We have no desire to be the largest winery.
With us, it is quality ahead of quantity."”

Believe it or not, it was another Jean who started the business all those centuries ago. He left Switzerland and ended up in Alsace. His surname wasn’t Trimbach but that name stuck as it was the name of the Swiss village that he had left behind.

Jean emphasised that the business is “all about the family style”. And so we have crisp Riesling, elegant Pinot Noir and so on. His brother Pierre and Jean's son Julien are now in charge of production. “I see reports in the wine press how this winemaker has moved to a different winery and that winemaker has replaced him. I wonder what happens to the soul of the winery in that case. In Trimbach, the family is at the soul of the winemaking.”

Jean's everyday wine!

We did of course get to taste that elegant Pinot Noir, a grape that he admitted that they knew little about  30 years ago. Now, “we understand it better, much better, keep the yields low. And the quality will grow into the future. No oak in these wines except foudres, some of them really old”.

A few years back, Jean-Fredéric Hugel (of another leading Alsace family) told me that, due to global warming, the quality of Alsace Pinot Noir is  “incomparable to that of 20 years previously”. Jean Trimbach acknowledged climate change but was more inclined to credit the improvement in the Pinot to the growing expertise of the winemakers over those decades.

He did say though that “climate is the first problem”. “In 2003, we knew nothing, now we know.” But he was encouraged by how the land has reacted: “Vineyards handle the heat better than us!”

The tasting started with the crystal clear Pinot Gris Reserve 2018. Jean was at pains to emphasise that this is a French grape, distinct from Pinot Grigio! We soon confirmed that its generous character goes wonderfully with the pleasures of the table, thanks to a selection of very tasty bites from the White House Kitchen.

Then we were onto “a treasure of the castle on the hill”. The Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling, dry, delicate, and chiseled, comes from a granitic terroir, all the other grapes at the tasting grow on a limestone base. Great to have a glass of this in hand as it has a very limited production.

Jean, who has been in this role since 1985, is always quick to point to the advantages that Alsace has, particularly when it comes to Burgundy. “We have more Grand Cru wines than Burgundy because they have no granite, no volcanic, no slate.. We have them all!” That big smile followed!

They export all over the world but France is a most important market and the home country gets a bigger allocation of their Grand Cru wines. “There are some thirty 3-star Michelin restaurants in France, we are in 27 of them and are talking to the other three!” And the person doing that hard talking is none other than Jean’s daughter Pauline who heads up the sales team in France.

Now we were on to another treasure, the prestigious signature of the house (first seen in 1967), Cuvée Frédéric Emile, a dry and powerful Riesling, an iconic wine and Jean’s favourite. Really amazing and a privilege to taste.

Just one red in the tasting and that was the Pinot Noir Réserve 2020. “Easy drinking,” declared Jean, “almost a glu-glu wine.” He had earlier used glu-glu to describe the Pinot Gris. Charcuterie, smoked meats, poultry, certain cheeses are among the Pinot Noir pairings but Jean, pointing to its smoke aromas, said it is also a terrific match for smoked salmon and underlined that by saying “We sell a lot of it in Japan”.

There was of course something sweet to finish on: Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (which is only produced in great years). Vendanges Tardives means late harvest and the very ripe grapes are usually (nowadays) picked in mid-October, well before the danger of frost which doesn't hit the Alsace until December. We enjoyed its natural sweetness. Jean’s verdict: “..not super sweet but sweet enough.”

Not super sweet but sweet enough

The producers recommend it as an aperitif or with foie gras, dishes in rich sauces, veal, and poultry with cream and mushrooms. It can also be fully appreciated with spicy cuisine such as Chinese cuisine, lacquered duck for example, powerful cheeses, and fresh and fruity desserts.

And a few minutes later Jean, who had flown in early that morning for the Kinsale lunch, left the room and, with Bibendum’s Mark Redmond at the wheel, was driven off to the Cashel Palace for a sold-out wine dinner a few hours later. 

Busy man!

White Wine Weather. Three of the very best!

Trimbach Riesling Alsace (AC) 2015, 13%, €15.96 (was 19.95) O’Brien’s

Trimbach (not Jean methinks!) sum up their wine story that began in 1626: “exceptional terroirs and fine wines”. And so they continue. This is “a great example of dry Riesling” according to Decanter, talking about the 2014 edition.

It is indeed a lovely wine with a light strawy colour. Apples and a touch of lime in the restrained aromas. Smooth on the palate with terrific white fruit flavours and the amazing dry finish goes on and on. Well made as you’d expect from this producer and Very Highly Recommended (even at the regular price - I got this in a sale).

Gitton Père & Fils Les Montachins Sancerre (AC) 2014, 12.5%, €23.95 Karwig Wines

Colour of this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is a light straw, tints of green. Fairly intense aromas, lime and apple, mineral notes too. Terrific rush of outstanding flavours, citrus now prominent, matched by an equal burst of the most refreshing acidity. And the finish lacks nothing at all, long and satisfying.  No need to say too much about this one, just Very Highly Recommended.

Speaking of the variety, Wine-Searcher.com says the key selling point of Sauvignon Blanc “is its straightforwardness” and that is certainly the case here. Its home land is the Loire and it is now found growing successfully in quite a few countries, notably in New Zealand.

Pair with oysters, crab, delicate white fish, green vegetables and salads, and cheese (goats in particular).

Albet i Noya El Fanio Xarel-lo 2016 Penedes (DO), 13%, now €17.00 Mary Pawles Wines.

Colour of this organic wine is light gold.

Citrus, gooseberry, floral notes too, in the nose.

Lovely creamy mouthfeel here - it had been on lees for six months; herb flavours to the fore, thyme and rosemary and other notes from the local scrub, fresh and lively acidity too make this a very friendly wine indeed, a distinctive one also and Very Highly Recommended. Great value as well.

El Fanio is the name of the vineyard and the grape variety is Xarel-lo, familiar to many of you as a key grape in Cava. The wine is aged in cement eggs (not very romantic!) and in acacia barrels.

Trimbach, family run since 1626!

Colm McCan (left) and Jean Trimbach

Vendanges Tardive 2002

Trimbach, family run since 1626!


Close to four hundred years ago, a Swiss called Jean from the village of Trimbach (not far from Basle) left and crossed the Rhine to Alsace and in 1626 the young man, now called Jean Trimbach, founded the wine business that stills bears his name.

Last night in Ballymaloe, his descendant, also Jean Trimbach, took us through four flights of their top class wines and matched them with charcuterie and cheeses made by two of Ireland’s leading food families, the Fergusons of West Cork and the Furno’s of Tipperary.

There was so much went on in the Grainstore last night that I think I will reserve the Ferguson and Furno stories, even if they do not go back to 1626, for future posts. Watch this space – I won’t delay! Well, except for a family wedding tomorrow.

Jean first showed three Rieslings, “all bone dry”. The 2006 Reserve was “creamy, crisp, refreshing, very versatile with food”. Then came the Cuvée Frederic Emile 2004, named after his great great grandfather: “..dry Riesling at its very best, voted top dry in the world, a serious wine”.


Serious work too he said because of the steep slopes on which the wines are planted. If you don’t watch your step and your bucket while picking, you could well accompany it in a roll down the hill.

The third, the Clos Ste Hune 2004, was a real treat for us. “Just 800 cases for the world. Just beautiful. One of the finest in the world. Collectible. The one to collect right now is 1985.” The match with these three was the Gubbeen chorizo.

Then Jean presented two Pinot Gris, at pains to point out that this was originally a grape from Burgundy and not Pinot Grigio as some people might think. This is fuller, richer, creamier, great with Foie Gras. They were matched with the impressive Crozier Blue (8 weeks).

First was the Reserve 2008, “a bring me home tonight wine and value for money”. Then we had the Reserve Personnelle 2001, which is not produced every year. “This,” said Jean, “was bottled in April 2002 but it looks as if it was bottled yesterday.” It went very well indeed with the cheese.

The next flight was two of the Trimbach Gewürztraminer. Gewurz means spicy, he told us. We first tasted the 2009: “elegance, finesse, focus. Just like the cheese, a beautiful match”. The cheese this time was Gubbeen smoked which also went well with the Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2005, a wine deemed worthy enough to pay “homage to the counts of the village”.

We ended the evening with a couple of dessert wines. The Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardive 2000 was paired with the Cashel Blue (14 weeks) while the Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive 2002 was matched to the Crozier (16 weeks), both perfect pairings.

Jean explained about Botrytis (the Noble Rot) and praised his brother Pierre, the Trimbach winemaker, as indeed he had throughout the evening, in his management of this dodgy process.

Balance is everything. As the rot sets in, the sugar goes up and so too does the acidity. But at a certain point, they can get out of synch and the winemaker must make his own decision, daily testing, to pick the shrunken fruit at the optimum time. “Sweet yes but think about balance.” I think everyone agreed that Pierre got it right with this pair as he did with all the others.

Next, a surprise as Jean came back to the mike and, accompanied by Ballymaloe’s superb sommelier Colm McCan, treated us to a song. Then we all moved outside to the Wildside Catering barbecue. A superb evening and more about the charcuterie and cheeses in posts over the next few days.

The visit was arranged through Des King and Claire Lomasney of Gleesons/Gilbey Wine Merchants and enjoyed our table chat with them and also with Eileen and Michael Fleming, long time friends and supporters of Jean.

Trimbach Wines, Gubbeen and Cashel Blue

Iconic French winemaker with iconic Irish food producers

Darina Allen and Jean Trimbach

Jean Trimbach, Trimbach Wines, Alsace, France
with Giana & Fingal Ferguson, Gubbeen Farm, Cheeses & Cured Meats, Schull, Co. Cork
and Sarah & Sergio Furno, Cashel Blue & Crozier Blue Cheese, Fethard, Co. Tipperary

The Grain Store at Ballymaloe, Wednesday 4th July, 7.00pm

A special evening in Ballymaloe with Trimbach Wines, Alsace, France - family run since 1626, and listed in the Top 10 White Winemakers of the world, with their wines & stories presented by Jean Trimbach. Also alongside Jean Trimbach, will be Sarah & Sergio Furno of 'Cashel Blue & Crozier Blue Cheeses', and Giana & Fingal Ferguson, of 'Gubbeen Farm, Cheese and Cured Meats',  who will also tell us their story with a tasting of their produce, to taste alongside the wines of Trimbach.

Wednesday 4th July, 7pm, €15 (includes wine & nibbles)