Chef Paul Flynn’s Signature Dish is Mrs Beaton’s Crab Crème Brûlée. It’s a good one!

Chef Paul Flynn’s Signature Dish is Mrs Beaton’s Crab Crème Brûlée.

It’s a good one!

“This will be on my headstone.”

So declared celebrity chef Paul Flynn as he introduced his “Crab Crème brûlée” dish on a February TV show (RTE Today). 

Forgot all about it until I sat down to dinner last week at Flynn’s usual base, The Tannery Restaurant, in Dungarvan. Got a lovely warm welcome and were soon seated upstairs. Friendly and efficient staff from start to finish. The Tannery is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year so well done to Paul and Máire who have made it in a destination restaurant.

The first thing I spotted on the menu was, of course, Crab Crème Brûlée, with pickled cucumber and cornerstone toast. Flynn spotted it a long time ago, in his days before the Tannery. He was then working at Dublin’s La Stampa and, during an idle moment, he was flicking through the 1861 edition of Mrs Beaton’s Cookbook and found this dish, a dish that, after seem tweaking and a change or two, has become his signature dish and one that is a permanent feature in Dungarvan.

Quail

After some delicious breads, CL made her starter choice and it certainly lived up to its billing. Just perfect as the crab, from the amazing Copper Coast, shines with its subtle accompaniments, a delicious and well balanced plateful. And an excellent starter.

I wasn’t a bit jealous though! My starter was also superb. It was called: Brioche bun, Coolea Custard, caramelised shallot. Wasn’t too sure what to expect but that cheesy custard was outstanding and in such magnificent combination with the shallots, all in step with the bun. Must be one of the best starters I’ve come across in a long while. Oh, by the way, I did get a few tastes of the crab and of course returned the flavour!.

Coolea custard in Brioche

Well if the starters were top class, our mains were well up the rankings as well. My choice was the Quail schnitzel, green peppercorn and wild garlic butter, seasonal vegetables. Needless to say, the schnitzel was spot-on but it was the butter that really elevated this to a celestial taste of culinary paradise. I reckon Adam’s better half would have tossed the apple has this set in front of her.

CL was more or less humming away as she enjoyed her Roast monkfish on the bone, Bouillabaisse sauce, fennel, wild garlic gremolata. Another well judged and expertly executed dish from the Tannery kitchen, every little bit playing an important role.  

Monkfish

They offer quite a drinks list here, including a full set of the excellent Dungarvan Brewery beers (in bottle). No shortage of cocktails either. We settled on the Domaine de Felines Jourdan, Picpoul de Pinet, as our wine. Great with fish but fresh and fruity and with no shortage of depth (after ten weeks on its lees), it paired quite well with the quail as well.  We finished off with Lemon Meringue, Velvet Cloud Yogurt sorbet and, for me, the Rhubarb “Baba”, mascarpone cream, ginger and almonds.

We stayed overnight in the comfortable Tannery Townhouse (around the corner from the restaurant) and were soon back for breakfast. The Full Irish featured of course but I was quite happy with the Baked Eggs (Nduja, tomatoes, cream and parmesan).

That gave me fuel enough to march into the Comeraghs for a stunning visit to the Mahon Falls. It was a magnificent blue sky morning, if very very cold. On the previous day, we took up an invite to visit a local cidery (Legacy) and then took in a stretch of the popular Copper Coast between Annestown and Bunmahon. 

After that, it was time for a pint and where better than at Merrys (just a few yards from the Tannery). Here I enjoyed some draught Wicklow Ale as we sat and relaxed, looking forward to Paul’s Crab Crème brûlée.

Also on this trip:

Visit Mahon Falls in the Comeragh Mountains

Legacy Cider, Dungarvan

Copper Coast Road

Tannery Kitchen Supper

Tannery Kitchen Supper.

Superb Food And Company.

The Kitchen Supper in the Tannery Cookery School was the highlight of our first day at the West Waterford Festival of Food. Paul Flynn’s “festival” was confined to four courses but flavours, textures and colours were unconfined. The  large group at the table certainly enjoyed the meal and the friendly input of hosts Maíre and Paul.

We had taken the long route to Dungarvan, heading up the main Dublin Road before breaking east in Mitchelstown towards Ballyporeen and Clogheen and eventually the heights of the Vee. I like that road through Tipperary, the mountains to the right and, all along the road, well kept cottages and farm-houses, even the roadside grass outside the gate is cut.

It was bright but cold high up on the Vee and we didn't linger too long but had a few stops to watch the newly born lambs and their mothers on the roadside. After checking in to Lawlor’s in Dungarvan, we took a stroll around the town and ended up in Merry’s, a lively busy pub that sells lots of craft beer and increasingly craft spirits. They also do food but we held off for the Tannery event! Beers enjoyed included the Wicklow Wolf Brewery’s American Amber and Franciscan Well’s Chieftain Ale.

Perhaps the main ingredient for the convivial evening at The Tannery Cookery School was a common interest in good food. And in addition we were, of course, in the right hands and in the right place. And it all led to a relaxed well paced evening, as is usually the case with good food and good company.

This was a set menu and the starter was Pea and Wild Garlic with Crab Cream, seasonal, local and delicious.

The humble carrot played a leading role in the main course, at least I thought so. Of course, the ensemble of Silver Hill duck leg, the McCarthy Black Pudding, with Colcannon sauce, that superb glazed carrot, and Star Anise, was a delight, a marvellous mix of flavour and texture.

Rhubarb is absolutely superb at the moment and was included in the dessert: Orange and yogurt panna cotta with rhubarb and sticky orange cake (these last two really combined superbly). The cheese course, two Waterford cheeses including Brewer’s Gold (a favourite of mine), made for an excellent finalé to a lovely meal, to a lovely occasion at The Tannery.

See also: A Tour of West Waterford Producers on the Bus Bia

See also: The Tannery Kitchen Supper.

See also: Craft Cider’s Challenges. More Like Wine Than Beer
See also: From Power with Love. Persian Dinner. Gorgeous. Generous.