Two to enjoy: A special Garganega and a delicious Syrah Rosé from the Rhone.

Two to enjoy: A special Garganega 

and a delicious Syrah Rosé from the Rhone.

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Bianco Garganega Veneto (IGT) 2021, 12.0% ABV

€20.95 Grainstore Wine Pop-Up Ballymaloe, 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

La Biancara, the vineyard, was “born” in the end of 80s, when pizza makers Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule bought a small plot of land, about six hectares, in the hills of Gambellara (a town in the Veneto). Since the beginning, they worked to develop their personal idea of wine; a wine created by the exaltation of nature, without chemical interferences in wineyard or in cellar, in order to obtain the highest expression of terroir in every bottle. 

Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave (where the grape dominates). Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I favour) of southern Italy.

Serve at approximately 10 Celsius with mussels, scallops, lobster, a variety of fish, tofu and grilled poultry. Herbs such as tarragon and chives will help highlight the green notes in the wine.

Straw is the colour of this 2021 white, predominantly Garganega but with  a ”drop of Trebbiano”. It is slightly clouded (they neither filter nor fine the wine). Aromas are delicate, floral notes and also tart lemon, lime and tangerine. Acidity is quite lively in this full bodied wine and there’s a fine finish as well. Very Highly Recommended. Serve at approximately 10 Celsius with mussels, scallops, lobster, a variety of fish, tofu and grilled poultry. Herbs such as tarragon and chives will help highlight the green notes in the wine.

They also produce a superb red, usually found with the white!

*********

Yves Cuilleron “Sybel” Syrah Rosé Vin du France 2020, 13.5%

€18.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny 

If you’re looking for a delicious dry rosé for slightly meatier fare or as these sunny (?) days turn to chilly evenings, look no further than this ruddy (should I say bloody?) Rhone rosé by maestro Yves Cuilleron.

Ruddy may be pushing it a bit but the colour of this bottle is a more robust pink than you normally see, thanks to the producer employing the “saignée” method (see below). It is produced from 100% Syrah grown “within the confines of the village of Chavanay in the Northern Rhone”.  

It is pretty to look at and the aromatics are promising if relatively delicate. Then the serious berry flavours kick in big time on the palate, quite an impressive amalgam of strawberries, cherries and raspberries all wrapped in a Syrah spice. So good, so well balanced, bright and fresh, this is one to look out for this summer (or perhaps its extension). Highly Recommended.

Saignée (means bleeding) is a unique style of rosé wine because it is so often bolder and darker in colour than any other rosé wine. If you’re not a fan of traditional rosé, you might like it because it’s “bigger, darker, and stronger than other wimpy pink wines”, according to Wine Folly. “Saignée also describes a method of rosé winemaking that involves ‘bleeding’ off a portion of red wine juice after it’s been in contact with the skins and seeds.”

See more (just a little!) on the subject here 

Yves Cuilleron initially worked as an engineer before being hit by the wine bug at age 26. He went to train at Ecole Viticole of Macon for a year then came back home, at the foot of Condrieu and Côte Rotie hills, and took over the family’s 3.5-ha estate.Importers Le Caveau are big fans. “The return of Yves Cuilleron to resuscitate his uncle’s farm is not only significant for a single individual or domaine. His efforts to return the region’s wines to global prominence will save the area’s vineyards from fading back into the hills and help to breathe life back into Condrieu, Côte-Rotie, and other corners of the northern Rhone.”

Geek Bits

Soil: Granite terroir.

Style: Rosé de Saignée

Grape: Syrah

Winery: Vinified and matured in barrique and in tank.

A Couple Of Excellent French Wines To Consider, from Burgundy to Bouche du Rhone

A Couple Of Excellent French Wines To Consider, from Burgundy to Bouche du Rhone

Cowboy of the Rhone Delta

Domaine Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay  Couteaux Bourguignons (AC) 2018, 13%

€19.40 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Light gold is the colour of this Chardonnay from Burgundy. Citrus and floral notes in the aromas. A citrus-y tingle as it hits the palate, an excellent acidity.  This fresh and lively wine, a wonderful drop indeed, is very well made and Very Highly Recommended. The wine is fermented in 1-, 2- and 3-year-old 400-l oak barrels, where it stays for a period of 10 months and we benefit beautifully because of it. The wine is not fined and only lightly filtered. The fruit for this excellent Chardonnay, one of around nine produced by Domaine Ambroise, comes from young vines.

 

Le Caveau say: Harvested manually, neither filtered nor fined, the wines are classic and expressive with distinct terroir-influenced personalities.

Maison Ambroise is a long established, small négociant house, who operates on 21 hectares of their own vineyards and purchase grapes from another 3. They own vines in Prémeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Ladoix, Meursault, the hill of Corton, Vosne-Romanée (with some Grand Cru Echezeaux!), Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune and as far as Saint-Romain. Bertrand Ambroise has been a key figure in the development of the estate and this wine is named for his grand-daughter.

Some official info from the area: This appellation Coteaux Bourguignons, created in 2011 covers red, white, and rosé wines, grown over four départements. The Coteaux Bourguignons appellation covers wines that can be blended or come from a single varietal, and which can use some more old-fashioned varietals. The word rosé can be replaced by the word Clairet.

This Bourgogne blanc is very adaptable at the table. It makes it a delicate and tasty pre-dinner drink while its wide-ranging and persistent aromatic spectrum (thanks to the Chardonnay grape) makes it a team player in the kitchen, especially with fish and shellfish. Its native power enables it to prevail over onion tarts as well as over a wide variety of soft and hard cheeses such as Brie, Vacherin, Saint-Nectaire, Mont-d’Or, Beaufort, Comté and all varieties of Gruyère.

Serving temperature: 11 to 13°C.

Saint-Cyrgues, Saint-Cirice 'Syrah - Grenache’ VdP du Gard (IGP) 2019, 13.5%

€14.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny 

Cherry red in colour, this blend from Costiers de Nîmes is produced with 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Marselan and 10% Merlot. Cherry and raspberry in the aromas. 'Saint Cirice' is the estate's entry level red and is rich and a little spicy. A good finish too.

Costières de Nîmes is in the Rhone delta and has those rounded pebbles (decent sized stones!), indeed the terroir is very close to that of Côtes du Rhone. It is well known over the decades for producing good wines and is one place in France where you can get exceptional value and this Highly Recommended bottle is an excellent illustration!

Le Caveau sum it up well: It will have broad appeal and would be a perfect choice for a house wine, or for any occasion where the need for a pleasurable drop and a keen price are essential.

St Cyrgues is an estate with vineyards along the southern slopes of the Costières de Nîmes which has a history of vine cultivation dating back centuries, and it was bought in 1991 by a young Swiss couple, Evelyne and Guy de Mercurio, and is run along organic lines.

Quite a versatile wine at the table. Suggestions noted are to serve it with wild mushroom risotto, gardiane ( a local stew made from smoked bacon, black olives and garlic) or a chunk of tomme cheese. Should perform well when matching up with roasted or barbecued meats so would do well during your Sunday lunch.

Nimes is the major city in the area in the eastern Languedoc, the city where denim (de Nimes) was invented. If you go to see the local bullfights (spectacular action fests where the athletes are more at risk than the bulls) you’ll note that the people involved with the bulls and the horses (paraded through the town before the spectacle), are kitted out in

denim just like your cowboy.

Under Pont du Gard - definitely not a cowboy

Two Highly Recommended Wines From O'Briens

Two Highly Recommended Wines From O'Briens

Emiliana “Amigo Secreto” Valle de Cachapoal 2016, 14.5%, €12.95 on offer, normally €16.95 O’Briens Wine 

This organic blend of Syrah and Mourvedre, from Emiliana in central Chile, has a ruby colour of medium intensity. Fresh cherry and plum aromas. Silky and soft on the palate, generous fruit, tannins are close to smooth and the finish is long. A friendly everyday wine that may be enjoyed with grilled meats and spicy food. Highly Recommended. 

O’Briens say: Made by our long-time Chilean partner, Emiliana, the organically farmed vines for this wine are planted on their own rootstocks in the Cachapoal Valley. In the cellar there is minimum intervention and the wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak.

Emiliana were founded in 1986 and the Giulisasti family are the major shareholders. They began the move to organic and biodynamic in the late 90s and their “Gé” (named after the Greek word for earth) was Chile’s first certified biodynamic wine (ref: Wines of South America). They run what they term “interactive vineyards” with biodiversity the major factor. 

Many different kinds of plants (employees are encouraged to grow their own to feed their families), many different types of animals ( alpacas, horses, cows, birds, chickens, sandpipers, geese, etc. live together here and also contribute to the compost used on the land), lots of cover plants (that contribute nitrogen and nutrients to the soil while planting of flowers draw insects away from the vines). Read and see more about their organic and biodynamic practices here. 

Ophalum Albarino Val do Salnes Rias Baixas (DO) 2018, 13%, €18.95 (12.95 at time of purchase) O’Briens Wines

This zesty Albarino, made from young vines, has a light straw colour with a little splash of green. White fruit (“doughnut” peach) feature in the moderately intense aromas. And more white fruit, citrus too, as the fresh wine moves over the palate, quite a fruity finish too. Highly Recommended.

Producers indicate it is ideal with all kinds of seafood, oriental and vegetarian cuisine. O’Briens themselves say the crisp acidity “is an ideal pairing to cut through oily fish or tapas dishes”. We tried it with the delicious smoked chicken crown from Skeaghanore and a garden salad and it worked perfectly well. Serving temperature: 8 – 10 °C.

O’Briens: made exclusively for O'Briens by the Paco y Lola winery in the Salnés Valley, the largest cooperative in Galicia's Rías Baixas region. It has the typical pear and citrus fruit profile of Galician Albariño with a saline mineral note on the long tropical fruit finish. 

Two Excellent Wines from Macon and Minervois.

Two Excellent Wines

 from Macon and Minervois.

Bourcier-Martinot Macon (AOC) 2017, 13%, €19.95 O’Briens 

If you like Maconnais, as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald did, then you’ll have love this. Coming from the northern reaches of the Mâcon, it is an unoaked Chardonnay and is  is new to the shelves at O’Briens.

Pale gold is the colour, clean and bright. Apple and lime and a floral touch too in the aromas. On the palate it is crisp and fresh, an array of citrus and melon flavours, nice bit of acidity also, an almost creamy mouthfeel and a good long finish. I’ve always enjoyed wines from this region, this is no exception and is Very Highly Recommended.

Hemingway was quite a lover of these wines as he disclosed in A Moveable Feast. On a drive up from the south of France with Scott Fitzgerald, they enjoyed a packed lunch which included truffled roast chicken and he reported that Scott was very happy when we "drank the white Maconnais at each of our stops".  Later on that day, "At Mácon I had bought four bottles...which I uncorked as we needed them." No breath-analyser in those roaring twenties.

I’ve read this is an excellent wine to serve with oven roasted scallops in the shell with herb cream. Then again, Hemingway’s pairing with truffled roast chicken sounds very interesting as well.

Money was no problem to Hemingway but many of us would struggle to buy some of the better Chardonnays from Burgundy. The Mâconnais, as illustrated here, offers an excellent introduction at a much lower price point than the Côte de Beaune and so on.

Chateau de Girard “Cuvée Arthur” Minervois (AOC) 2017, 14.5%, €19.95 O’Briens

Dark ruby is the colour of this supple unoaked Minervois from certified sustainably farmed vineyards. It is the classic GSM blend:  Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

 In the intense aromas you’ll find black fruits (plums, cherry). Soft, juicy, fruity, terrific balance and a long finish. This easy-drinking rather elegant wine, with silky tannins, is relatively new to the O’Briens portfolio. Full bodied and lush, immediately loveable, with a persistent finish and a touch of spice, this is Very Highly Recommended. Pair with paté, roasted meats and pasta. Serve at 18 degrees.

Tall. Dark. And Handsome. A Trio of Irresistible Reds from O'Briens Wine

Tall. Dark. And Handsome.

 A Trio of Irresistible Reds from O'Briens Wine

Vidigal Porta 6 Vinho Regional Lisboa (IG) 2018, 13.5%, €12.95 O’Briens Wine

This dark and handsome ruby is an irresistible contender. Aromas are loaded with fruit notes and that continues on to the supple palate, with sweet slender spice cozying up well with all that muscular ripe blackberry. And the finish, smooth and knockout long, is also packed with flavour. Quite a punch, quite a wine. Count it out yourself. No wonder O’Briens report it as “Our perennial customer favourite wine…With its memorable label, Porta 6 delivers a huge amount for its price”. Highly Recommended.

This rich full-bodied red, with its eye-catching label, is ideal with roast lamb or beef and with sirloin, striploin and rump steak. It is a blend, as many Portuguese reds are. The locally grown grapes used are Castelão, Tempranillo (Tinta Roriz here), and Touriga Nacional. It has been aged for 3 months in French oak.

* For just a few euro extra, you can get your hands on Porta 6 Reserva. Must keep an eye out for that myself!

Chateau Vieux Pourret Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (AOP) 2016, 13%, €26.95  O’Briens Wine

Deep ruby is the colour here. Aromas are quite intense, mature dark berry fruit the main characteristic. It is indeed soft, round and velvety on the palate as the label indicates and there is also acidity enough. And it shows good character all the way to a very pleasing finish. A harmonious wine and should be fine with red meat dishes (including venison) or hard cheese, poultry too (depending on sauce).

This Very Highly Recommended wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. Ageing is carried out partially in oak barrels for between 6 months and a year, the rest being aged in concrete. You don’t have to rush this one - it is expected to keep well for ten years. No need to say too much when the wine is this good.

Sacred Hill Reserve Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2017, 12.5%, €19.95 O’Briens Wines

Deep ruby is the colour of this engaging Syrah. Aromas are quite intense, quite complex too with berry fruits, pepper and floral elements in the mix. On the palate this light red is vibrant, dark red fruit flavours with a tangy acidity. And that bright fruit takes you all the juicy way to the excellent finish. A well balanced wine indeed and Highly Recommended.

Sacred Hill are a certified Sustainable vineyards located in some of the best vineyard sites, on the famous Gimblett Gravels, in the Hawke's Bay region of New Zealand's North Island. Brothers David and Mark Mason, and winemaker Tony Bish, founded Sacred Hill in 1966, with the aim of developing traditional French styles with a distinct Kiwi twist.

This Syrah is aged for 8 months in French oak to give extra complexity and richness of flavour and is an excellent example of what the trio and the Hawke's Bay region has to offer.

Head South For This Smashing Pair, One White, One Red. Or Just Head to O'Brien's

Head South For This Smashing Pair,

 One White, One Red.
Or Just Head to O'Brien's!

Domaine Begude “Etoile” Chardonnay Limoux (AOC) 2018, 13.5%, €18.95 (21.95)

Beautiful mid-gold colour. The aromatics are quite complex, regular fruit (such as apple and pear) along with the exotic (mango) in the mix. It is certainly more of the exotic on the rich palate, quite a rounded almost creamy mouthfeel, more complex than most French Chardonnays (not that there is such a thing as a typical Chardonnay as the chameleon grape makes itself at home wherever it finds itself), good acidity too though, so the long finish is harmonious.

This Highly Recommended wine should be fine with salmon and trout, with roast chicken (even roast turkey!). The winery also says it is “heavenly with Comté & other hard cheese”. Worth a try so with Hegarty’s Templegall though I know cheesemaker Jean-Baptise may prefer a Saint-Emilion.

This certified organic wine, full-bodied and smooth, is crafted from Chardonnay grapes high in the cool climate region (hot summer days and cool nights) of Limoux. Fertilised using only natural manures and cultivated with the utmost respect for the environment, this wine is vinified and matured in the very best French oak to bring you “our finest cuvée, Etoile”.

Chateau de Caraguilhes “Prestige” Corbieres (AOP) 2017, 14.5%, €14.95 (18.95)

Colour is a dark red. Intense nose of dark fruits, notes of spice, perhaps a hint of the garrigue, the scrub that thrives around here. I once stayed in a gite in Languedoc owned by a Madam Garrigue. Like the senior citizen Madame, this wine is amazingly smooth (the madame used tidy up the pool in her bikini every evening). Must say that gite was great value for money and I can indeed say the same about this Prestige, fresh, and full of fruit, enhanced by nine months in oak. No pesticides, no herbicides, just excellent value (more so with the current reduction). 

Garrigue, by the way, is a feminine noun. And since I’m on gender, the French language version of the label indicates that Syrah is feminine while Carignan and Mourvedre, the other two in this blend, are masculine!

O’Brien’s tell us that Caraguilhes is completely organic, “this estate was using organic techniques when it was virtually unheard of anywhere else”. The Prestige is their oak-aged Reserve wine and is a seriously stylish wine. 

As regards keeping the wine, the winery advices that while it has potential of 6 or 7 years, it can be drunk today. Decant one hour in advance and serve at around 15 degrees. Food pairings: Provencal lamb (if you don’t have Herbes de Provence, try thyme, sage and rosemary), roast grilled beef with olives, quail in truffle sauce. Enjoy.

A Trio of Excellent Wines from Mary Pawle

A Trio of Excellent Wines from Mary Pawle

Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours “Energies” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOP) 2016, 13%, €30.00, Mary Pawle

This biodynamic wine from the right bank of the Gironde estuary (those of you who have holidayed in the Royan region may have seen booths selling Blaye wines in the local markets) is outstanding. It is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dark ruby is the colour and there are fairly intense dark fruit aromas with a hint of minerality. It is fresh, light and dry to finish. Fresh and flavourful and packed with those dark fruits. Medium bodied, juicy and light, quite succulent indeed. Excellent acidity help with the food pairings. Tannins are smooth. Young, yet smooth beyond its years. This early maturity means it can be enjoyed now or postponed for up to ten years. No postponing here, Very Highly Recommended as it is.

Interestingly, having been wild yeast fermented in concrete with a week-long, post-ferment maceration on skins,  it is then then aged in Italian clay amphora for one year before being bottled unfiltered and with minimal use of SO2. The terracotta of the amphora has been credited with “assuaging” the power and giving the palate a nice amplitude. 

Day of bottling was determined by the biodynamic calendar. Day of drinking? Seventh of July 2019.

Amastuola “Vignatorta” Puglia (IGP) 2014, 14%, €15.50 Mary Pawle

This blend of Syrah (75%) and Primitivo comes from Puglia in the heel of Italy and is organic. Vignatorta goes perfectly with red meat, game such as venison or wild boar, but also with white meat of poultry, turkey and duck.

Colour is an intense ruby. The aromas are also rather intense, berries and cherries in the mix. Cherry flavours make for a fruity and juicy palate experience; spice is prominent there too. Good acidity is also in evidence while the tannins just about retain their grip. Fruit and spice again at the decent finish. Highly Recommended.

Amastuola “Lamarossa” Primitivo Puglia (IGT) 2015, 14.5%, €19.95 Mary Pawle

My attention wandered after opening this and I was pleasurably sipping away,  thoroughly enjoying it, when I realised that  I hadn’t taken a single note.

This is 100% Primitivo, the twin of California’s Zinfandel, and has the high alcohol content of its American relation. Like the Vignatorta (above), it is organic. In my humble opinion, it is more sophisticated and a better wine than the Vignatorta, a bit more expensive too of course. Ageing is 6 months in oak barrels, 6 months in cement.

Amastuola Lamarossa is a wine suitable for the whole meal, which goes perfectly with both white and red meats. Referred as “a veritable ode to the terroir of Taranto”, this Primitivo IGT has a deep, almost impenetrable ruby-red colour. 

Aromas are intense, featuring  berries and cherries. A very juicy palate, less spice than its stablemate, acidity enough along with quite subtle tannins and persistent finish. A pleasure to drink and Very Highly Recommended.

Three Rosés for Summer 2019 at O'Brien's. Dive in as prices tumble!

Three Rosés for Summer 2019 at O'Brien's
Dive in as prices tumble!

Hampton Water Rosé Languedoc (AOP) 2018, 13%, €19.95 (was 23.95) O’Brien’s

She laid take out on the coffee table

Prepped the dishes poured a glass of wine

Turn down the sound and move a little closer

Here for the moment everything is alright

(from Bon Jovi's  "Because We Can)

This rosé from the south of France, with an American accent, really comes into its own on the palate, a delicious melange of flavours, fresh and fruity and acidity enough, followed by a light and lengthy finalé. A superb aperitif and probably excellent too with finger food, seafood and salads. One for the back garden (no pool to dive into, alas) in the months ahead.

It is a collaboration between renowned France winemaker Gérard Bertrand and Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse, hence the American name. It was voted Wine Spectator’s top rosé last year. This appearance in Ireland is thanks to O’Brien’s. It comes with an almost clear robe, the merest blush of colour. Floral and fruity elements feature in pleasing aromas of moderate intensity.

It is produced primarily from the Grenache grape though other Mediterranean grapes, such as Cinsault and Mourvedre, are also in the blend, all selected by Gérard Bertrand. Particular attention is paid to the pressing to ensure that only the first, highest-quality juice is kept. Highly Recommended.

Bodegas Tandem Rós Rosado Navarra (DO) 2018, 13.5%, €12.75 on offer (June 10th-July 21st), was 16.95. 

Quite a few words on the label here: Alicia and Lynne, Navarra, Native Garnacha, Hand Farmed, Hand picked, Wild ferment, concrete tanks, force of nature, Artisanal, vegan.

They tell you most of what you need to know. Alicia and Lynne are the wine-makers, Alicia from Tandem and Lynne from O’Brien Wines. O’Brien’s are very happy with the part played by their very own Wine Director Lynne Coyle (Master of Wine) in this “delicious little rosé using natural wild yeast". It was produced in Navarra in the north of Spain and Garnacha is the grape here.

Force of Nature hints at the overall process, they worked “without technology”. It is also the name of a thriller by Jane Harper that I’ve just finished. The book, like the wine, is Very Highly Recommended!

It has a salmon colour. A very pleasing aromatic bouquet and an equally pleasing presence on the palate, fruity for sure (strawberry prominent), persistent too. I like this one, the introduction and the while handshake, start to finish. A very attractive wine, even more so at the reduced price. Very Highly Recommended.

J-M Cazes L’Ostal Rosé Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 12.5%, €11.59 (June 10th-July 21st), was 15.49.

Another famous name on this bottle, that of renowned French wine family J-M Cazes. This rosé though comes not from Bordeaux (where they have owned Chateau Lynch-Bages since 1939) but from another of their vineyards in the Languedoc.

So, L’Ostal is from the south of France, the source of many of those rosés that we know and love. It has somewhat less flavour than the Rós which also has a longer finish. This though is a lighter wine, a drink anytime kind of wine. Try it with a salad in the back-garden at lunch-time (check the forecast!) and you’ll be delighted with it.

Made from Syrah (50%) and Grenache, it is quite a pale pink, though its colour has more substance than the Hampton Water. It has been macerated (soaked) for a very short time on the skins to create this modern blush effect. The aromas too are delicate and also complex; concentrate and you may find pomegranate and rose petals there. The strawberry flavours are restrained but nothing wrong with that. It is fresh and supple in the mouth, refreshing with a slightly fruity, slightly sweet finish. Highly Recommended.

Summary:

Not that easy to pick a winner. Each of the three has its own character. So it's down to personal taste and you won’t go wrong with any of the three. My first instinct is to go with the Rós, my second is to call for a 3-way replay! Oh, by the way, virtually every rosé in O'Brien's is reduced by 25% in the O'Brien's summer promotion that runs from now until July 21st. We'll take a look at the whites and the reds on offer soon.

Four Super Wines from Mary Pawle

Four Super Wines from Mary Pawle Wines

Maison Emmanuel Giboulot Bourgogne (AOC) 2016, 11.5%, €30.00 Mary Pawle Wines

This wine is organic and biodynamic, as are many of the wines that Mary Pawle imports. So nothing new there.

Except that, as recently as 2014, this winemaker Emmanuel Giboulot was fined and threatened with a jail term for sticking to his principles. He was convicted for refusing a government order to spray crops with pesticides, following fear over an outbreak of golden rot, only to have the decision reversed on appeal. Prison rather than poison.

This is quite a wine with a lovely light gold colour. Delicate aromas of white flowers. A velvety mouthfeel, beautiful intense fruit (stone, citrus) from start to long finish. Excellent bright minerality too. This elegant wine is superbly balanced and is Very Highly Recommended.

Emmanuel met the problem of agricultural practices and its impact on wine and human health head on and is now a prominent advocate for organic and biodynamic viticulture. His wines reflect his principles and the widely acknowledged exceptional Burgundy terroir. Enjoy this one!   As we celebrate Real Wine Month.

Maison Emmanuel Giboulot “Terres Macônnaises” Mâcon-Villages (AOC) 2016, 11.5%, €30.00 Mary Pawle

Sometimes, I have very little to say about the better wines - they speak for themselves. This is one such. It is 100% Chardonnay and biodynamic. Colour is a very bright light gold. There are appealing aromas of white fruit, blossom notes too. Superb fruit (pear and apple), a refreshing acidity, and that balanced mix takes you all the way to a long and satisfying finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Grapes are hand-picked and sorted. The whole bunch is pressed and cold settled for 24 to 48 hours. The light must is fermented in old oak tanks. Before being bottled, it is aged on fine lees for 11 months.

The Mâconnais wine region is in the south of Burgundy and takes its name from the town of Mâcon. It is best known for its Chardonnays. 

Hemingway was quite a lover of these wines as he disclosed in A Moveable Feast. On a drive up from the south of France with Scott Fitzgerald, they enjoyed a packed lunch which included truffled roast chicken and he reported that Scott was very happy when we "drank the white Maconnais at each of our stops".  Later on that day, "At Mácon I had bought four bottles...which I uncorked as we needed them." No breath-analyser in those roaring twenties.

The French World Cup winner Antoine Griezmann was born and raised in Mâcon but was deemed too small to play for Lyons so headed for Spain where he is now earning about €400,000 a week with Atletico Madrid. Since I didn’t have to say too much about the excellent wine, I thought I’d throw that in!

                   

Dit Celler “Selenita” Montsant (DO) 2008, 14.5%, €17.00 Mary Pawle Wines

Biodiversity in the vineyard

This powerful red is a blend of Garnatxa, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Mary Pawle: “If you are fond of the wines from Priorat then you should enjoy the Montsant wines from the opposite valley.”

Priorat is a region in Catalonia, Spain. The central part of the region, Priorat històric, produces the highly-regarded wines that are certified under the DOQ Priorat. Wines from elsewhere in the region are certified as DO Montsant.

So now that we know about Montsant, how about the name of the wine? The Selenita are the inhabitants of the moon and the producers infer that some of their night-time magic has been bottled. You too are free to use your imagination! While we’re on it, the winery is named after its founders Dani Sánchez (from Azul y Garanza in Navarra) and Toni Coca, so D and T (DiT).

Wine-Searcher says Montsant, an approved wine region only since 2001, has earned a reputation for its high-quality red wines. This dark ruby offering is one of them. It is lighter at the rim (still very narrow, even after ten years). The legs are certainly slow to clear, confirming the high abv. Intense dark fruit aromas (plum, cherry, cassis), toasty notes too. Powerful yet velvety on the palate, elegant, deeply flavoured and tannins by now well-integrated (you’ll get a soft reminder on the lips), smooth spice, and the long finish echoes the palate. A big hug of a wine and Very Highly Recommended.

Mas Théo Gemeaux Vin de France 2016, 13.5%, €17.20 Mary Pawle

The little-known Grignan-les-Adhémar AOC growing area lies to the south of Montélimar (a Rhone city famous for its nougat). Planted among fields of lavender and thyme or olive groves, on land long famous for its truffles, the vines soak up the scents and aromas distilled by the generous sun of the Drôme provençale and it is in the heart of this area that you’ll find Mas Théo. Mas by the way means farmhouse; Mas de la Dame near Baux de Provence is another example. This AOC is between the northern and southern Rhone and is regarded as southern.

This “delicious and crunchy” wine is a blend of Carignan (60%) and Mourvedre (40), is organic and biodynamique. Recommended serving temperature is 14%.

It has a very dark red robe and you’ll find blackberries and notes of the garrigue in the aromas. It’s nice and smooth on the palate, has excellent acidity, medium to full bodied, smooth tannins and a good finish. Highly Recommended.