Emiliana Novas Riesling Gran Reserva 2021 Val Del Bio Bio (DC) Chile, 13.50% ABV
€16.95 O’Briens Wine
stunningly complex and a real deal at this price!
This organic Chilean Riesling from Bio Bio* is clear golden yellow in colour. It features lifted aromas of apple, pear, and lime, a waft of diesel (common in Rieslings wines the Bio Bio Valley, one of Chile’s most
A Riesling of “great purity, ethereal and dry, a gastronomic grand vin” from Meyer-Fonné
Meyer-Fonné Riesling Katzenthal Alsace (AC) 2019, 13% ABV
€29.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork
From the granitic slopes surrounding the village of Katzenthal comes this very distinguished and racy wine. The immense potential of these granitic soils of Katzenthal is realised time and again by Meyer-Fonné.
The colour of this 2019 Riesling is a beautiful gold with tints of green. Minerality and lime feature in the flavours on the complex yet easily accessible palate while the aromatics throw citrus notes, a floral flicker and the more or less usual hint of diesel. It may be “usual” but the diesel here is not a disturbing sensation as some examples can be and soon fades into the background. Rich and ample for sure with peach joining the lime as the wine, with a balancing acidity, heads towards a long and rewarding finish.
Very Highly Recommended.
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Meyer-Fonné is fast becoming one of our favourite winemakers; in the past, we have also Very Highly Recommended his Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes (twice), his Meyer-Fonné Gentil thrice (going for four with another one in the queue), and his Crémant d’Alsace (AOC) Brut Extra.
The maestro is rather proud of this one: “Originating from the granitic slopes of Katzenthal, this very distinguished, concentrated long finish wine carries the emblem of its terroir magnificently. Its mineral and floral character, great purity, ethereal and dry, make it a gastronomic grand vin. Ideal with all kinds of fish.”
The man himself, Félix Meyer, has come in for high praise.
"Félix Meyer is one of the more ambitious and successful young vignerons of Alsace.” Wine Advocate.
“ ... Félix Meyer still has humility, still has a sense of wonder, and is still capable of self-criticism. He is a seeker and a perfectionist. He is a terroirist, and when he speaks of a granitic soil, the wine in your glass tastes of it.”
Kermit Lynch, US importer.
Something different from Alsace and Verona, both wines highly recommended.
Vino Nato Disobbediente Monte Dall’Ora 2019 11.5%
€24.45 (litre bottle) 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
This blend, of pergola-trained 60% Corvinone & 40% Molinara, from the hills outside of Verona (think Valpolicella), has a quite light ruby red colour. Corvinone has been previously thought to be of the same group as Corvina but 1993 DNA profiling suggests that it is its own unique varietal.
Aromas here are both floral and fruity (strawberry, raspberry, cherry). The taste is along similar lines, relatively intense. On the palate also, you will find a lively acidity before a dry finish. A very pleasant wine indeed and Highly Recommended. It is a certified organic wine, clean and classy.
Not very much info on the “redacted” label, not even a vintage date! Pretty certain it is 2019 though and that is what is on my invoice. The wine’s name, Vino Nato Disobbediente, means Wine Born Disobedient.
Two other words that survive on the front are resistente and contadino which Google translates as Hardy Farmer! And there’s a bit of sense to that as this type of wine, light and red (that can also take a little chilling), is made by the farmers for their own family use. And, another thing, it comes in a litre bottle. “A litre of pure joy!” According to importers Le Caveau; I willingly agree with that assessment.
The Venturinis, Alessandra and Carlo, have emphasized traditional and native grape varieties wherever possible to give originality and typicality. All the wines are blends of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Oseleta. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts and extraction is gentle giving wines of gentle, cherry-fruited elegance.
Christian Binner, Côtes d’AmourSchwir Alsace (AOP) 2013, 13.5%
€28.95 (was 33.50) 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
This light, fruity and fresh blend of white grapes from the Alsace is a traditional selection of mainly Riesling and Pinot Gris with lesser inputs via Gewuztraminer, Muscat and Auxerrois blanc.
Colour is orange-y. It is an intensely aromatic wine, lots of fruit and floral notes also. No shortage of fruit either on the palate, “a fruit basket of apples, oranges, poached pears and grapes” according to importers Le Caveau. Balance is attained though. It finishes long and dry. If you do like to stray off the usual piste, this is well worth a try. Highly Recommended.
Serve at less than 14 degrees; grilled fish is an excellent match.
Harvest is manual, all grapes pressed together, fermented with indigenous yeast. It is a medium body structured wine. Zero sulfur added, unfined, unfiltered, so you may see a little sediment as I did.
Côtes d’Amourschwir is a selection from the best vineyards on the Cotes d’Ammerschwir. It is a blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewuztraminer, Muscat and Auxerrois. The grapes are blended from the press, fermentation takes place is large oak foudre that are over 100 years old.
The Binner family has owned vines in Alsace since 1770 and today they practice organic and biodynamic agriculture, neither fine nor filter the wine, use only natural yeasts, use minimal sulphur, etc... All the wines are aged in 100 year old big foudres and undergo malolactic fermentation.
A couple of splendid French whites, from the north-east (Alsace) and the south-west (Gaillac).
Laurent Cazottes “Adèle” Vin de France 2018, 14.5%
€19.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Adèle blanc is 100% Mauzac rose, an indigenous grape from the Gaillac region. where you'll find Domaine Laurent Cazottes. Husband and wife team, Laurent and Marina, are known for making exceptional, artisan eau de vie from various fruits they organically farm. They also make gorgeous wine from old vine Gaillac grape varieties: Mauzac, Braucol and Duras. Their wine, like their eau de vie, is certified organic and treated with great care. Highly Recommended.
Adèle’s colour is more orange than gold. Aromas hint of ripe apples. Lively, and complex, on the rich and rounded palate, intense white fruit flavours (pear, apple), with a fine acidity too, all the way through to the warming (sherry like) finish. Should be versatile at the table. Think I’d start with free range pork (preferably Woodside Farm) with apple sauce, followed by Tarte Tatin.
I think I’d like to have Cazottes as neighbours. In addition to the wines, they also cultivates 600 “Williams” pear trees, no less than “1300 truffle oaks for the melano sporum truffle, 1000 saffron bulbs, oil from our sunflower, bread wheat, barley, black oats, sparse hay, aromatic plants for the production of floral waters and essential oils." Everything is in organic farming, the Cazottes estate is certified by "Nature et Progrès”.
Domaine de l’Achillée Riesling Alsace (AOP) 2016, 12%, €27.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Colour of this organic Alsace Riesling is a lovely light gold, quite bright. Aromas are rather intense with lime leading the way, a slight background note of diesel. Quite a presence on the palate, superb flavours of grapefruit and lime, a terrific acidity too and the harmony holds all the way through the persistent finish. Highly Recommended
The label suggests serving at 12 degrees. Don’t put it in the fridge, rather leave it outside the back door these Autumn evenings! They say it is perfect with seafood and raw vegetables. Excellent with all dishes based on white meat and fish, preferably freshwater. Try it with baked trout.
Domaine de L’Achillée is an Alsace winery, situated less than an hour south-west of Strasbourg. The Dietrich family have farmed the land here since 1600. These days they concentrate on grapes and other fruits and have been organic since 1999.
In 2016, the two sons of Yves Dietrich, Jean and Pierre, joined the adventure to give it a big boost, to become independent. Quickly accompanied by an equally passionate team, they built together a straw winery where they now vinify the fruits of the family estate. Apparently, the heavily compacted straw bales are more fire-proof than the iron frame that supports them. Their website says this is the largest straw building in Europe.
O’Briens Wine September Sale In Full Swing
The O’Briens Wine September Sale is in full swing. With about 100 wines reduced you might be in need of some pointers and here are a few of my picks!
Chanson Chablis (AC) 2018, 13%, €16.95 (25.95)
Pale gold is the colour. Aromas are delicate but persistent, citrus fruit, and floral notes too. Fruit flavours are assertive and harmonious and it also boasts the benefit of a fairly rich mouthfeel. A palate full of life plus a refreshing lingering finish. What’s not to like?
It is, of course, one hundred percent Chardonnay, raised on limestone hills south of the village of Chablis. The year had its up and downs before the August harvest was carried out in perfect conditions, grapes ripe and healthy, the wine precise with a beautiful fruit combination.
Food pairing suggested: Pâté, lobsters and poultry as well as some goat cheeses.
O’Briens are enthusiastic: With Chanson's wines now performing at the top level thanks to more than a decade under Bollinger's wing, this Chablis has never been better. … electrifies the palate and has considerable richness for Chablis - ..a real stunner!
* Domaine Chanson dates to 1750 and lies in the heart of Burgundy’s Beaune region. In 1999, the estate was sold to Champagne Bollinger.
Chanson Fleurie (AC) 2018, 13.5%, €16.95 (18.95)
In Beaujolais generally, there is a continuity of quality, almost a guarantee of it, if you move up a step or two to the ten crus and the villages that ring them. Fleurie, like all the crus, is in the north east of the Beaujolais region. Here the Gamay grape thrives on the granite soil, the wines always refreshing and never short of acidity.
Colour of this beauty is a bright mid-ruby. Abundant aromas of cherries and spice. Juicy in the mouth; no shortage of red berries (strawberries, raspberries) and sweet cherry in delicious combination, smooth and well balanced, refreshing too with excellent length. It is, of course, 100% Gamay and no oak has been used by the winemakers.
Did you know that the Gamay grape is an “exile” in Beaujolais? In 1395, it was outlawed by Royal decree, using Trump-like language, as being “a very bad and disloyal plant”. Sixty years later another edict was issued against it. And so it was pushed out of Burgundy and south into neighbouring Beaujolais where it has thrived on the granite based soils.
By the way, the ten crus that produce the flagship wines are: Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent.
Ortas “Prestige” Rasteau (AOC) 2015, 14.5%, €17.95 (19.95)
Rasteau, about 40 minutes east of the Rhone, sits on a hill in the Vaucluse, one of the five departments of Provence, and the climate is typically Mediterranean (meaning a high level of grape maturity). It is to the north of better known villages such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise. The village also has the distinction of making fortified wines (vin doux naturel) including a deep coloured red.
I’ve long had a soft spot for Rasteau reds and this dark-red coloured wine keeps me very much onside. Just have to love its rich nose, the red and darker berry flavours, the juice on the velvety palate, a good dash of spice too and those smooth tannins.Terrific balance between wine and wood and a super finish as well.
The grape varieties in this Prestige are the GSM trio (from old vines) of Grenace, Syrah and Mourvedre. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees and you’ll find it goes well with red meats, roast small game and rich cheeses.
The Lingenfelder family, winemakers in the Pfalz area of Germany since 1520, produce this Bird-Label Riesling, one of their "Vineyard Creatures" series that also includes the Hare (Gewürztraminer) and the Fox (Dornfelder) .
Pfalz is in the south west of Germany. It is one of the driest and warmest areas there but still a cool climate. Wines can be more full bodied here in good years. 2018 was warm and dry and some of the 2018 are "not too heavy". All hand-picked, all wild fermented, they rely on the natural yeasts that are all around the cellar. “Authenticity is very important to us,” Georg, the 14th generation of the family in wine, told a Cork audience last year.
This Riesling is off dry and delicious. It has the typical Riesling aromas (citrus-y), is fresh and elegant and may be enjoyed as an aperitif or with light or spicy dishes.
Only the very best German vineyards get to display the "VDP.Grosse Lage" designation on their bottles and it is on this one that I bought during Karwig’s closing-down sale last year. Not too sure where, or even if, you can get it in Ireland now. But if you see one, don’t hesitate!
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| Fred Loimer |
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| Horn of Plenty |
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| Soft pruning |
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| Compost "cooking" |
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| Cheeky |
