Never Say No To Rosé. Bouquet drenched in Sunshine. Aromas of the Garrigue. Suave and Gourmet.

Once In Provence

O'Briens Rosé Summer Offer. All Summer!

Once in Provence - well I was there just the once - I thought I should get a bottle of rosé for a fish meal back at the gite that summer’s evening. 

It was mid-afternoon and I was visiting Roussillon, the reddest town in France. Red, not because of its politics, but because of the red/yellow/orange colour of its buildings, most constructed from the local ochre stone - you could see, from the town, the bright slashes of a quarry in the area.

As you might expect, the young man in the wine shop had quite a selection. After a chat, he offered the bottle that his family favoured and it turned out very well indeed. Just before we drove out of the carpark, I took a photo of the newly acquired rosé lying on the local soil.

The local soil adds colour to this rosé

One begins drinking with the eyes, they say down there, the beauty enhanced by the glass. That bouquet drenched in sunshine. Aromatic notes of the hot and dry garrigue (herbs, spices, fruit). The taste suave and gourmet. They can really sell wine in these parts! 

Perhaps the best sell of all comes from an unexpected quarter: from the monks of Via Caritatas. They have produced a rosé that “addresses itself to the soul… Silence is the only thing that suits.” Check it all out here on this short video from the winery. Thanks to their Gabriel Teissier, I have tasted their beautiful Lux red but not that tempting rosé Lux de Cælo!

Came across quite a lot of rosé that Provence trip, including some at the famous Tavel (on the Rhone). Mostly though we bought and drank the pink from the ladies of Mas de la Dame (spoken of by Nostradamus, painted by Van Gogh, its wines recommended by Mary Dowey, three legends there!). 

The Mas rosé was popular in the restaurants around Arles (our base) and the vineyard itself was in easy reach and so we called and bought wine at the farm in Les Baux de Provence, a charming medieval village perched atop a rocky outcrop near where Anne Poniatowski and Caroline Missoffe, the current “dames”, continue to make excellent wines (not available in Ireland as far as I know).

Chateau Gairoird Organic Rose Côtes de Provence (AP) 2020, 13%, €14.21 (18.95)

This organic rosé from Provence has a very pale salmon colour. Quite aromatic with, for me, strawberry leading the charge, also notes of grapefruit and white peach. Strawberry also on the full flavoured palate, good balance too. Plus a decently long finish. Perhaps this is more suited to table rather than aperitif duty with a veal blanquette, cheeses, crab fritters, tuna tartare, grilled salmon, linguine with tomato and olive sauce, among the dishes suggested. Serve at 12 degrees.

Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah are among the grapes used in this blend. This Côtes de Provence rosé is all about the blend and up to 10 other varieties (including Rolle and Tibouren and mostly in tiny proprortions) may go into this wine.

O’Brien’s tell us the Pierrefeu family has owned this estate since 1824 and have farmed it organically for the last ten years. The estate has a maritime climate and benefits from a sea breeze every day which keeps the grapes healthy and disease free without the need for spraying, this is a deliciously elegant textbook Provence. The terroir is classic Provence with free-draining, chalky-clay soil dotted with galets and, with wonderful echoes of Jean de Florette, the Château has its own ‘source’.

While this rosé from Provence has nothing much more by way of colour than a blush hue, a recent edition of Wine Enthusiast reports, that in recent vintages the local rosé in Provence has “gotten exactly what it needed: more color.” 

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Languedoc 2020 13.5%, €14.21 (18.95)

The "sculptured" base of the Bertrand.

Another impressive bottle from the Languedoc. There’s a rose on the neck (top) and the bottom has been “sculpted” into a rose shape (above).

Glass closure

So how does the wine shape up? Quite well actually as you’d expect from Gérard Bertrand who played rugby well and now makes wines well. The colour is a soft pale rose, with a hint of grey. Aromas are delicate, of red summer fruit (strawberry and cherry) and blossom too. With its generous rounded mouthfeel, the freshness and fruitiness on the palate, it is all the better to match your grilled white meat, white fish or Mediterranean style summer salads or just as an aperitif as you and your friend shoot the breeze and smell the back garden roses.

This blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, certainly looks, and tastes, well enough to give as a gift when calling to a friend and don’t forget to get one for yourself as well. 

Summer Long Rosé Offers at O'Briens Wine

Revino PostCard Organic Pinot Grigio 2020 Veneto €11.96

Delheim Pinotage 2020 Stellenbosch €10.46

Petit Bourgeois Pinot Noir 2019/20 €11.96 Loire Valley

Langlois Rosé D’Anjou 2020 €11.96 Loire Valley

Pasqua 11 Minutes 2020 €14.21 Veneto

Laurent Miquel Les Auzines Alaina €12.71 Languedoc Roussillon

MiMi en Provence Grande Réserve 2020 €14.96 Côtes de Provence

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses 2020 €14.21 Languedoc Roussillon

Famille Bougrier 2020 €10.46 Loire Valley

Domaine L’Ostal 2020 €11.96 Languedoc Roussillon

Château de Gairoird 2020 €14.21 Côtes de Provence

Rós Rosé 2020 €12.71 Navarra

Passe Colline Rosé Ventoux 2020 €11.21 Rhone

See previous post on the Alaina and L'Ostal here.

The Oldest Papal Vineyard in France. And it’s not where I thought.

The Oldest Papal Vineyard in France

And it’s not where I thought.

The oldest papal vineyard in France is not where I thought*. Not in Châteauneuf but near Malaucene in the Vaucluse département of Provence, about 40 minutes to the north-east of the former papal city of Avignon. 

Pope Clement V was elected pope in 1305 and his coronation was in Lyons, not in Rome. In 1309, he moved the papal throne to Avignon (on the Rhone) and also planted this vineyard in the Abbey of Le Barroux under the stern gaze of Mont Ventoux, not too far from the famous Dentelles, in an area where you’ll also find the more famous vines of Beaumes de Venise.

The entire vineyard is, as you might expect, mountainous in nature. Lots of hard work on the slopes including the vintage by hand. On their estate, the monks and nuns have raised their cultivation methods to high levels. “More than a motto, Garde et Service (custody and service) of nature are the two main lines of our conscientious cultural approach, in order to make it possible for our vineyards, for Provençal agriculture and the the heart of men to bear their fruit in due course - today and tomorrow.”

And, thanks to the presence of Gabriel Teissier, Directeur du Developpment at Via Caritatis, at last week’s Liberty Wines Portfolio tasting in Dublin, I got a brief history and also got to taste three of the wines: the Vox Domini Blanc, the Vox Caritas Rouge and the Lux in Domino Rouge.

Gabriel Teissier at Liberty Wines Tasting

The Vox Blanc is a blend of Clairette (90%) with Roussanne and Grenache blanc. They have two Clairette plots, one 40 years old, the other just 11 and it is from this second that the outstanding freshness comes. Soft pressing in the winery is followed by a slow fermentation, and the wine is “then rested on lees for six months, giving a lovely texture to the finished wine.” Very impressive, with excellent acidity as well.

The Grenache (90%) led Vox Rouge is expressive with ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit. On the palate, the wine is ample, powerful and well balanced. Again you’ll note the acidity. The flavours are concentrated and layered with notes of spice and liquorice which linger on the finish.

The grapes were hand harvested and subject to a rigorous sorting process upon arrival at the winery. Fermentation took place in concrete vats which are also used for the Lux rouge below. After malolactic fermentation, the wine rested in concrete tanks for nine months before bottling. Another impressive wine.

The outstanding Lux Rouge comes in a deep red. The nose boasts aromas of ripe black fruits  and a touch of liquorice from the oak hint at excellence to come. And it comes. On the palate, the wine has a rich mouth feel, with silky and opulent tannins, powerful but well-balanced with bright acidity. 

This is one to lay down as the concentration of flavours as well as the excellent structure of the Lux Rouge, along with the “thousand and one skills of the art of wine making” will see it age and develop over the next ten years. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks and then the wine is aged for 18 months, 80% in concrete tanks and 20% in 500L new oak barrels before blending and bottling.

The day I got to the top of Ventoux! But it was warm and sunny down below.

The history of wine in Europe is deeply connected with monastic life. In 2015, united by a wish to revive their region’s winemaking history and support local winemakers, the monks of the Abbey Sainte-Madeleine du Barroux and the local cooperative, Beaumont de Ventoux, joined forces to create a range of wines from their combined 30 hectares of vineyards. The quality of the grapes and the impressive community partnership attracted the attention of illustrious Rhône oenologist Philippe Cambie, who has since become consultant winemaker for Via Caritatis.

The Dentelles. Sunny here, having come down from foggy Ventoux earlier

The men and women of Via Caritatis (the way of charity) are determined that their terroir will produce beautiful wines for hundreds of years to come. Lots of stirring stiff in their brochure but I’ll leave you with just one line by Max Philipe Delavouët. 

“.. We just need to plant trees, in turn: one day they will bear plenty of fruit for those hands already raised in the mists of time…. Let us go, we will never be rich enough, we who are passing, like those who are coming, to let anything be lost.” Garde et Service!

Read all about the excellent Liberty Wine Portfolio Tasting here

* The first pontifical vineyard  was exactly settled in the place-name "Groseau" (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_Notre-Dame-du-Groseau) which used to be a benedictine monastery at the time of Pope Clement V and was given by the monks to the pope. This place-name is located on the land of the municipality of Malaucène, neighboring Le Barroux village. When the benedictine monks resettled in the region, they built their new monastery on the municipality land of Le Barroux. Nowadays the place-name of Chapelle du Groseau is in the heart of Via Caritatis vineyard which spreads on the tree municipality of Le Barroux, Malaucène and Beaumont-du-Ventoux. 

A White Gem from the Angels of the Windy Mountain

A White gem from the Angels of the Windy Mountain

With an Irish helping hand.

Not a pleasant day
on the summit.

Domaine des Anges, blanc 2009, Ventoux (Provence, France), 14%, Karwig Wines

In beautiful Provence under the shadow of Mont Ventoux (known as the windy mountain, among other things), winemaker Ciaran Rooney produces this well balanced white in the Irish owned Domaine Des Anges (angels).

The colour is like pale honey and it has a charming nose, a mix of white fruit and floral elements. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity (ripe pear), and surprisingly ample with a good long finish.

This Highly Recommended blend of Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette, was hand-crafted on the small beautiful hillside vineyard in the South of France, all without the use of herbicides or pesticides, respecting nature and tradition. On the side of the angels!

On the way up Ventoux

Happy New Year, With Rosé en Primeur!

HAPPY NEW YEAR

With Rosé en Primeur!

Just got a Happy New Year card from the folks at Laurent Miquel vineyard near Beziers. Dominique is one of the signatories and she explained to me previously that the French spread out the New Year Celebrations over the first few weeks. No rush there then!

But you may want to rush out for an offer that Dominique also told me about. It is one where you pay less for your Rosé rose by buying it “en primeur” via From Vineyards Direct 

 Three years ago From Vineyards Direct launched what is now a traditional  “en Primeur” release of new vintages of Pontet Bagatelle Rosé, raising a good few eyebrows by introducing pale pinks into what has often seemed to be the preserve of more ‘serious’ wines from a particular left or right bank.

Describing the rationale for selling Pontet Bagatelle rosé en Primeur, Esme Johnstone, co-founder of FromVineYardsDirect, said: “It is the best rosé from Provence, probably France, and the first 2011 rosé to be sold en Primeur. It is outstanding… We want our customers to be able to enjoy this wine without paying through the nose.”

The 2011 harvest at Château Pontet Bagatelle was ideal and, producer Garry Stephens describes the wine as “The best rosé we have ever produced at Pontet Bagatelle – an appetising pale pink colour with a nose that bleeds intense but restrained summer berry fruits. Good balance, acidity and a great finish. Just about perfect – I am thrilled”

• The wine can be purchased at the remarkable price of €51 in Bond. This is €45 less than the price of the 2010 vintage as fromVineyardsDirect have been able to purchase the majority of the harvest this year – and Garry wishes to thank FVD customers. This stunning Rosé will also be available in Magnums, Double Magnums and Imperials.   The larger bottles add a touch of drama as well as flavour to any party, reception or wedding.

The prices in bond for delivery late April/May are as follows:

Bottle    €4.25Bt or €51cs       

Magnums or €9 or €54 cs(6)

Double magnum(300cl) €25 or cs (3) €75

Imperial (6oocl) €78

Queries to info(at)fromvineyardsdirect.ie  

TWO GOOD ONES FROM THE RHONE

TWO FROM THE RHONE

DOMAINE DES RICHARDS PLAN DE DIEU COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2009, 14.5%, €8.00.

Bought this bottle after a tasting at the producer’s shop in the pretty village of Beaumes de Venise. Spent part of the morning on top of a foggy Mont Ventoux (6 degrees), seeing (through gaps in the cloud) the sunshine in the valleys below (26 degrees). It stayed fine as we drove through the Dentelles to Beaumes. It was a good sunny day and this turned out to be a good buy.

The grape variety mix in the area is Grenache 50%, Syrah and /or Mourvedre 20% minimum and other grapes authorised in the appellation 20% maximum.

In appearance it is a rich red while the nose finds a rich mix of ripe red fruits and local herbs. This is a big wine on the palate, warm and full bodied with the fruit and spices. It is an excellent mouthful, not at all shy and the team of tannins keeps it all well balanced.

This particular bottle was put to good use with some excellent local products - see the previous post.

VIGNERONS BEAUMES DE VENISE CRU DES COTES DU RHONE 2009, 14.5%.

Beaumes is one of the 8 Crus of the Southern Rhone and has been so since 2005. The grape mix here is slightly different from the Plan de Dieu and is: Grenache 50%, Syrah 25%, Mourvedre and other varieties authorised by the Appellation 20% maximum and white grape varieties 5%.

This was another very enjoyable holiday purchase that reached Ireland but didn't last for too long! It has a very rich red colour with a quite a nose of red and black fruits and spice. The palate is somewhat smoother than the Plan de Dieu and it is full bodied and well balanced with some excellent work form the smooth tannins.

Another fine example from the Rhone and a little step up on the Plan de Dieu.

SWEET SWEET AMANDINE

AMANDINE

In you are in Athy this sunny morning for the ploughing, or indeed for any day of the event, I’ll bet you won't easily pass the stand of Amandine Confectionery. 

This Dungarvan based company makes delicious French style cakes of all shapes and sizes and all are tempting, especially the succulent Pear & Almond and Lemon Meringue Tarts that have been shortlisted for the 2011 Irish Food Awards in Dingle at the end of the month.

But you don’t have to go to Athy to get your hands on these sweet things. Amandine has a permanent stand in the mall at the Mahon Point Shopping Centre and also at the City Square Shopping Centre in Waterford.  The products are also available in Dungarvan (in (Dunnes Stores and Twomey’s Eurospar in Abbeyside) and in Midleton (Hurley's SuperValu).

Claire O'Connor is a busy person and, aside from the Ploughing Championships, you see her at various food festivals in the southern half of the country – I met here most recently at Midleton. Claire is from France, from the Var department in the region of Provence. She was educated at the Ecole superieure de commerce de Montpellier and now lives in Dungarvan

Claire, a follower of Munster rubgy, has brought a real taste of France to Ireland, her delicious selection of artisan confectionery includes cakes, tartlets, birthday and photocakes and more. Why not have a look at her Facebook page .

KARWIG: TRYING TO KEEP THE SUMMER ALIVE

Domaine Houchart 2010, Cotes de Provence Rose, 13%, Karwig.

In Roussillon in Provence, built from stone from nearby
ochre quarries,  I bought the beautiful rosé below left.

Fair play to Karwig Wines. They are trying hard to keep the summer alive and this rosé will bring you a little sunshine from the Midi even if it is dull outside.

They have a great selection on offer and I was tempted by the Bandol (over a fiver off) but, having tasted a string of Provencal beauties this summer, I picked the Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence. 

Marcus Gates was helping me make the choices and he says that the rosés have been flying this summer and the offer will continue for quite a while yet.

This vineyard is located in Puyloubic, a little village close to Aix-en-Provence, and has been producing “for more than 100 years famous rosé, red and white wines”. Not too sure about the fame of the village but rosés in Provence are generally good, even if not always famous.

This pale pink effort by Houchart doesn't disappoint. Nothing weak about this dry rosé as it roams the taste buds, exciting interest as it gently rolls. Nice sharpish flavours of white fruit that hit home. 

Mas de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010

Mas de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010, Vin de Pays des Alpilles, 13.5%, €9.20 at the vineyard.

“One day, the sea will recover the land and will stop at the Stèle (stone marker) of Mas de la Dame. So spoke Nostradamus.

The sea could well one day sweep up the flatlands of the Camargue and head for the historic farmhouse (mas) of la Dame. So I thought I’d help myself to some of their organic wine this summer during my hols in Provence.

This white is a blend of Rolle (80%) and Clairette. It has the colour of a well watered down whiskey and an aromatic nose. Dry and tasty, this classy fresh wine has a smooth and rounded mouthfeel with a mix of white fruit flavours spreading gently all over the palate, enough to allow a generous seepage into a lovely finish.

Aside from being mentioned in the predictions of Nostradamus, Mas de la Dame was painted by Van Gogh, and referred to by Simone de Beauvoir (famed 20th century French author-philosopher).

We had a lovely visit here in June and after tasting bought this white and some Stèle rouge 2006. They also do Olive Oil but we had already shopped for that at the nearby Castelas.

Unfortunately this fabulous wine is not available for sale in Ireland. But if you are in France, keep an eye out for it and grab some while you can. That Nostradamus fellow might just be correct!

Costières de Nîmes - Home and Away

Mas de Bressades, Tradition Blanc, AOC Costières de Nîmes 2009, 13.5%, €13.00, Bubble Brothers, 4 stars.

Rhone-Setes Canal, south of Nimes

I was surprised by the quality of the whites from Costières de Nimes during last month’s visit to Provence. The Costières, for some time now officially a Rhone wine, is based in the area around Nimes, including the “wild” Camargue, in the Bouches de Rhone.

I spotted this on the Bubbles Brothers site  and was keen to compare it with one that survived the journey home. Must admit I had meant to pick up the 2010 version but, with all the chat, ended up with the 2009.  I needn't have worried.

Colour is a weak golden straw and the nose is intensely aromatic. On the palate it is fresh and fruity (grapefruit mainly for me), quite complex plus a pleasant flavoursome finish. A very acceptable wine indeed.

Camargue ponies near Gallician

But do watch out for the 2010 version which according to the Bubble Bros site is “as fresh and fruity as ever” and “an irresistible temptation to those who like the fuller, richer style of white that comes from Roussanne and Grenache blanc” It is 50% Roussanne and 30% Grenache.

Gallician Costières de Nîmes Prestige blanc 2010, 13%

Cave Pilote de Gallician recommends that their white wines be kept for no more than two years. No danger of my exceeding that as the sole remaining bottle from June’s French haul was enjoyed at Tuesday’s barbecue. 

Not exactly comparing like with like here as the grape mix is different to the one from Bubble Bros. It is 50% Grenache blanc, 30% Clairette and 20% Marsanne and the cost, at the Cave, was less than four euro.

Colour is pale yellow and the nose is moderately floral and, on the palate, it is fresh and smooth with a decent finish. Not bad at all but the honours in this little contest go to the Mas de Bressades.

To see more of my June trip to some of the Costieres de Nimes villages, click here.