Beaujolais and Picpoul de Pinet. Two Well Recommended Examples.

Beaujolais and Picpoul de Pinet.

Two Well Recommended Examples

Roux “Domaine de la Plaigne’ Beaujolais-Villages (DOP) 2017, 13%

€17.90 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Gamay, from a small family run vineyard, has a mid to dark ruby colour. Aromas are quite intense with berries (raspberries, red currants and black currants in the mix) prominent. The palate is fruity and round, all in harmony right through to the persistent finish. Nothing unexpected really and the importer’s description sums it up very well indeed: “Delicious, gives simple, but immense pleasure in a typical good Beaujolais fashion.” Highly Recommended.

The Roux owned Domaine de la Plaigne covers more than 15 hectares in the commune of Régnié-Durette, right in the heart of the Beaujolais wine region. Wine-growers father and son, Gilles and Cécile, represent the 4th generation, and since 2014 their son Victorien has joined them on the estate. They all get name-checked on the bottle.

In Brief:

Grape: 100% Gamay

Character: fruity and harmonious

Ideal for all occasions from aperitif to cheese. Serve at 14 degrees.

Winemakers: Gilles, Cécile and Victorien Roux.

Vines: Average age - 65 years

Soil: Sand/Granite

Serve with: Lyonnaise salad, prepared pork products, poultry, leg of lamb, entrecote steak with Beaujolais sauce.

Montredon Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2019, 13%

 €13.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Crystal clear but with attractive strong green/gold highlights. That’s the “colour scheme” of this Picpoul from the designated area along the shores of the Med. Aromas are apple and pear, peach and lime. Made 100% from the Picpoul grape, which translates as “stings the lip”, it is known for its high acidity. But the grape has much more than that going for it. It is fresh, flavourful, with good weight, and there’s a hint of minerality in with that acidity. This lip-smacking refreshing wine is a Highly Recommended example.

Picpoul is an ancient grape but the disease Phylloxera almost did for it until the French discovered it could thrive on sandy soil. Hence its renaissance in the Languedoc. It is no surprise, then, that Picpoul is to be found only in coastal vineyards such as those which surround Pinet and the Etang de Thau (lots of oysters here, conveniently!), just west of Montpellier. According to Wine-Searcher, there are a few vineyards in Portugal and Spain growing Picpoul, although there it goes by the names Picapoll and Avello.

Picpoul de Pinet is splendid with seafood and shellfish as well as other traditional Mediterranean dishes. It neutralises the salt and iodine in shellfish and other crustaceans, and is surprisingly good with rich cheese and charcuterie. It’s best drunk young and cool (between 8-10°).

Producers Bruno and Christine Cantie of Domaine Montredon own 55-ha, with 20-ha planted with Piquepoul. Their style is for classic, text-book dry and crisp Picpoul, wines that are ideal with the local seafood – oysters and mussels in particular. You’ll find them about halfway between Narbonne and Montpellier. By the way, there is no link between this producer and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer Domaine de Mont-Redon.

A Strongly Recommended French Double

A Strongly Recommended French Double 

Château Petit Roubié Picpoul de Pinet, AC Coteaux du Languedoc 2019, 13%, €14.50 Mary Pawle

Fairly widely available including Organico, Bantry; Mannings, Ballylickey; Field’s Supervalu, Skibbereen; Taste, Castletownbere; Quay Co-Op, Cork City; The Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny; The Connemara Hamper, Clifden; Ardkeen Food Store, Waterford; The Good Food Store (Toon’s Bridge Dairy) Dublin.

Light gold, with faint green reflections, is the colour of this Picpoul. Aromas of the wine are somewhat shy but mainly floral. Crisp on the palate, no shortage of acidity either yet, with white and citrus fruit on the palate and its excellent mouthfeel, it is more harmonious than you’d expect for the grape. Dry for sure, especially towards the finish, and obviously an excellent match for oysters and shellfish (which are abundant in the area).  Serve at about 8 degrees for best results. I think this is even better than the previous vintage, so Very Highly Recommended.

Importer Mary Pawle says it is often referred to as the Muscadet of the South. Indeed, you’ll almost certainly come across Picpoul more than Muscadet on Irish restaurant lists these days.

The Picpoul is grown on a clay-limestone terroir not far from the large Thau lake, on the edge of the Med. While regarded as a lake, it has very high salinity.

Château Petit Roubié has been practising organic farming since 1985. Floriane and Olivier Azan have owned the estate since 1981 and have developed, thanks to a judicious choice of winemaking, a very attractive range indeed. Their lands are in a historic area; if you visit, you can still see vestiges of the Via Domitia (the Roman road) in their scrubland. And those Roman engineers were building on top of an even older “road”. The wine is presented in a distinctive Neptune bottle though that, as far as I know, has nothing to do with the Roman god of the sea.

Emmanuel Giboulot “En Grégoire” Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes De Nuits (AOC) 2017, 12%, 

€41.00 New to the range but available online at Mary Pawle. 

This light and perfumed biodynamic 2017 Burgundy, mid to dark ruby in colour, has plenty of berries in the aromas. The attack is fresh with lots of fruit coming on strong, more gentle as the smooth finish is reached and fine tannins dry the lips. Very Highly Recommended.

The producers confidently assure us that "En Grégoire" "can accompany a beautiful plate of cold meats, grilled meats, a dish

exotic. Its complexity will do wonders."

An excellent Pinot Noir then. Par for the course in these parts, you might well say. Except that, as recently as 2014, this winemaker Emmanuel Giboulot was fined and threatened with a jail term for sticking to his principles.  He was convicted for refusing a government order to spray crops with pesticides, following fear over an outbreak of golden rot, only to have the decision reversed on appeal.

Emmanuel met the problem of agricultural practices and its impact on wine and human health head on - Prison rather than poison - and is now a prominent advocate for organic and biodynamic viticulture. His wines reflect his principles and the widely acknowledged exceptional Burgundy terroir.

Two Highly Recommended French Wines. Picpoul from Pinet, Gamay from Beaujolais.

Two Highly Recommended French Wines. Picpoul from Pinet, Gamay from Beaujolais.

****

La Mirande Picpoul De Pinet (AOP) 2019, 13.5%

€14.60 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Languedoc wine pours a pristine light gold. Fresh aromas of the related yellow fruits apricot and peach plus a touch of citrus are found in the pleasant aromas of moderate intensity. On the palate, this lively thirst-quenching wine features a crisp acidity and the flavours reflect the aromas. Highly Recommended.

Ideal for most fish and seafood and as a thirst-quenching aperitif. Happily, the producers themselves won’t have to travel at all for their ideal pairings as the estate, organically farmed, is located in the heart of the Picpoul appellation, not far from the Bassin de Thau, a salt-water lagoon dedicated to the cultivation of oysters and mussels.

They say: Born under the Languedoc sun, this wine made from Piquepoul grapes will highlight fish, shellfish and crustaceans. It will also make an excellent aperitif.The Mirande vineyard located on limestone terraces overlooking the Etang de Thau, produces this very refined wine which is generally drunk young.

Alex Foillard Beaujolais-Villages (AOP) 2019, 13%

€23.60 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour of this Gamay, a light and fruity red by Foillard junior (his dad is the more famous, so far, Jean), is a mid-ruby. Red and black berries feature in the delicate aromas along with hints of menthol. If aromas are delicate, the palate is definitely supple. It’s spicy and fresh, the pure and delicious fruit tending to tartness (nothing extreme though) plus a lively acidity as well. Quite an opulent and refreshing wine and Highly Recommended, one that you and your lucky guests can enjoy.

Le Caveau recommend pairing with duck, pork, or even a slice of cherry pie. Serve it cool, naturally!

They say: Alex had early exposure to the world of wine, and more specifically, to the principles of sustainable farming and low-intervention winemaking that brought his father to stardom in natural wine circles. The new generation at Domaine Foillard has burst onto the scene with a bang, and the future is full of exciting possibilities for this talented Beaujolais youngster. His wines can already be found in the hippest wine bars and wine shops in New York, Paris and Tokyo.

Impressive Whites from the Languedoc and Bergerac. Fruity, French and Fabulous.

Well-known in Bergerac!

Impressive Whites from

 the Languedoc and Bergerac

Château Petit Roubié Picpoul de Pinet, AC Coteaux du Languedoc 2018, 12.5%, €14.10 Mary Pawle

Picpoul de Pinet is becoming a star wine, according to Grapes and Wines (2015). 

Picpoul is the grape name and it is found in the Languedoc and the best of it seems to be from the village of Pinet, on the edge of the Med and about 90 minutes east of Carcassonne. It is a very old grape variety and the name means lip—stinger (after its high acidity).

It has a pale gold colour. Aromatic for sure - citrus, melon and floral. Rounded and abundant fruit flavour (apple, lime, grapefruit), generous mouthfeel (close to creamy), a perky acidity and a decent finish. Highly Recommended and Very Highly Recommended with seafood. Serve at 8 degrees seems to be the official line but mine is one or two below that!

Importer Mary Pawle introduces this 2018 as a dry white, with a green-gold hue. Crisp and apple-y. “Often referred to as the Muscadet of the South, it is excellent with oysters and most shellfish.”

Château Petit Roubié has been practising organic farming since 1985. Floriane and Olivier Azan have owned the estate since 1981 and have developed, thanks to a judicious choice of winemaking, a very attractive range indeed. 

Their lands are in a historic area; if you visit, you can still see vestiges of the Via Domitia (the Roman road) in their scrubland. And those Roman engineers were building on top of an even older “road”. The wine, I’ve read, is presented in a Neptune bottle though that, as far as I know, has nothing to do with the Roman god of the sea.

Terroir Feely “Sincérité” Vin de France 2018, 13.5%, €22.20 Mary Pawle

You find out much about this 100% Sauvignon Blanc, in shorthand, on the label: Zesty fruit. Memories of the sea. Sincerity of nature. Hand-harvested. Indigenous yeast. Unfined. Vegan friendly. Organic. Biodynamic. Demeter.

In the glass, it has quite a light straw yellow. Gooseberry and citrus feature in the aromas. Lively and zesty attack, amazing flavours (more or less tracking the aromas) from then right through to the long finish, flavours are not at all extreme though, and with matching acidity, all’s in harmony here. A delicious refreshing wine, with minerality, perhaps from the limestone soil, and Highly Recommended!

Chateau Feely is in Saussignac (well-known for its sweet wines) in the Bergerac region but its wines are labelled ‘Terroir Feely’ because most Feely organic, biodynamic and natural wines are bottled under the ‘Vin de France’ label and in France, Feely tell us the word ‘Chateau’ is reserved for AOC wines.  “Since vintage 2014 our wines fit the natural wine standard defined by SAINS a French natural wine association”.

Why is it called Sincérité? “A pure Sauvignon Blanc originally named ‘sincere’ as a play on words with Sancerre due to the minerality and the pure Sauvignon Blanc character. It is a wine that is direct and acidic with a purity and freshness that is like sincerity.”

Serve at 7°-8°C with Fish and seafood, Fresh goat cheese and Salads.

Wines from New Zealand and France via Le Caveau and Mary Pawle

Wines from New Zealand and France

 via Le Caveau and Mary Pawle

Pebble Dew Pinot Noir Marlborough 2017, 13.5%, €24.95  Le Caveau

“A real drinking pleasure” is how Le Caveau describe this Pinot Noir from New Zealand. They have been trying to source a Kiwi supplier for Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc for a while and reckon Pebble Dew is the answer.

It has one of the lightest red colours you’ll see, very close to rosé. The red fruit aromas are packed with promise. And the fruit delivers well on the palate, supple and juicy, right to the refreshing finalé, with a touch of tannin, evident on the top of the lips. It is a light and lively wine for summer, has a bit more going for it than the Sauvignon Blanc.  Highly Recommended.

Pebble Dew Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2018, 13.5%, €20.95  Le Caveau

Colour of the Pebble Dew Sauvignon is a very light straw. Aromatic too with white stone fruit and lime in the mix. Gets more citrus-y on the palate, the lively fruit matched with acidity. Pleasant and easy drinking. Nice aperitif and should go well with seafood and salads. Recommended.

Château de Bastet “Aeris” Côtes du Rhone 2015, 13%, €15.20 Mary Pawle

Generally, white Côtes du Rhone have a clear and crisp appearance, with a floral and fruit bouquet and a well balanced palate. This “Aeris”, organic and biodynamic, certainly fits that description. Serve at 8 to 10 degrees and it is the perfect match to grilled fish, shellfish, fish stew and goat cheeses. Salad Nicoise too.

Château de Bastet decided to go biodynamic in 1997. This 2015 is a blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. Other white grapes permissible in the region are Clairette, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc too and Picpoul.

It is light straw in colour. And there is a nice mix of aromas, floral along with pear and peach. Smooth with good depth of flavour and a pleasant finish. Highly Recommended and, by the way, well priced.

Chateau Petit Roubié Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2018, 13%, €13.80 Mary Pawle

A dry white from the Languedoc region near the Med in the south of France. Mary Pawle tells me this grape, Picpoul de Pinet, is often referred to as the Muscadet of the South and is excellent with oysters and most shellfish. And that’s confirmed by the label recommending fruits de mer, coquillages et crustacés, with a serving temperature of 8 degrees.

It has a mid-yellow colour with green tints. Aromatic for sure - citrus, melon and floral. Rounded and abundant fruit flavour (lime, grapefruit), generous mouthfeel (close to creamy), a perky acidity and a decent finish. Highly Recommended.

Picpoul is the grape and Wine-Searcher says this Picpoul de Pinet is its most famous incarnation. “The variety's ability to keep its acidity even in a hot, Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect choice for the region, making taut, full-bodied white wines with herbal and citrus aromas.”