Cedre Heritage Malbec Cahors (AC) 2021, 13% ABV
RRP: €19.95. Stockists: 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
almost every vine receives a special attention
Gorgeous fruity aromatics welcome you to this mid to dark ruby wine from the south of France. It has been produced biodynamically by Pascal and Jean-Marc Verhaeghe of Château Du Cèdre, found where the River Lot meanders, meanders a lot, and where I confess
Altos Las Hormigas “Terroir” Malbec Valle de Uco Mendoza 2019, 13.5% ABV,
RRP €26.95. Stockists: The Cinnamon Cottage / JJ O’Driscoll Superstore Ballinlough / The Corkscrew
“Each tank is tasted three times a day to determine what is needed.”
Coming from a careful selection of grapes from the oldest geological part of Uco Valley in Argentina, this Malbec is a deep ruby. The aromatics feature dark berries and cherries and also show outstanding violet notes. The vivid fruitiness and the distinctive floral elements all come together harmoniously in a fresh and round palate, while acidity and tannins also play a balancing role here and the finish pleasantly lingers.
Not my first time enjoying this stellar wine. Very Highly Recommended.
“This Malbec is ideal to pair with various dishes, from red meats to pasta or grilled vegetables”, according to the producers, Malbec specialists since 1995. Serve at 16 degrees.
Check out our Top Wines 2024 list (with stockists and short reviews) here
Looking for better value? All under 20 euro. Click here
Just to give you an idea of the attention to detail here, here’s a quote from their website on this Malbec’s fermentation. “100% Malbec grapes harvested by hand. After a careful, double-sorting process, the grapes are softly pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts to express the vineyard they come from. Fermentation takes place in separate stainless steel tanks between 24-28°C for 10 days. Each tank is tasted three times a day to determine what is needed. The wine is then aged for a minimum of 9 months in concrete vats. No oak aging.”
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| Pic via Diego_Torres Pixabay |
Two Reds For Santa's Bigger Helpers.
A Grenache/Mourvèdre Blend from St Chinian
A Malbec From Argentina's Mendoza
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Chateau Bousquette Pruneyrac St Chinian (DOC) 2018, 14.5%
R.R.P. €17.90. The Quay Co-Op, Cork/ Scally's Supervalu, Clonakilty
// The Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny //
This is a big wine from the Midi, full of the aromas and flavours of organic Grenache (50%) and Mourvèdre.
Colour is purple, a little lighter at the edge, tears are slow to clear. Aromas are expressive: spice, pepper, wild berries and the local garrigue. On the palate it is harmonious, with intense flavours and silky tannins. Finish is long and spicy. Very Highly Recommended
The Domaine de la Bousquette was the property of the Abbaye de Foncaude until the French Revolution. A long line of winegrowers, including the Fabre-Ginoulhac family who managed it until 1996, followed before it was taken over by Swiss winegrowers Eric and Isabelle Perret
It was very early on, in 1972, that the Domaine de la Bousquette joined the " Nature et Progrès " charter, and is now regularly certified by Ecocert for organic farming, without chemical fertilisers, weedkillers or pesticides.
This cuvée is named after an old family from the region, who were very involved in the estate at the beginning of the century, as evidenced by old bottles found in the cellars. Pruneyrac is in Saint-Chinian, an appellation in the large southern France region of Languedoc-Roussillon.
Uncork about 1 hour before the meal and serve with, for example, with lamb shoulder confit with sweet onions and ginger. Perfect too with a leg of lamb, cassoulet, strong cheese or a barbecue. By the way, this juicy red is excellent with turkey!
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Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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El Abasto Malbec Mendoza (Argentina) 2018, 14% ABV,
RRP €19.35. 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
There are, according to Wines of South America, two main factors that help Malbec thrive in Mendoza.
The low rainfall (12” as against 30” Bordeaux) and its timing, falling mostly in the summer, promotes ripening and minimises disease. Second, Mendoza’s wide thermal amplitude (put simply, the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures) promotes aromatic development and softened tannins. The proof’s in a glass of this vibrant fruity full-bodied wine.
Where did the name come from. The label tells us that by the end of the 19th century, Buenos Aires was growing significantly due to migration from Europe. The El Abasto market opened in 1893 and, with many immigrant neighbourhoods, it quickly became also a centre for Tango, poetry, and culture.
Mid to dark ruby is the colour. The aromas are full of jammy dark and red fruit, all saying welcome, come on. And in the mouth, it is equally loveable, totally gluggable. That punchy yet soft fruit (plum, blackberry) comes in a medium body, and the wine is smooth right through to the finalé. Put this on your Malbec shortlist. Highly Recommended.
Pair with charcuterie, cold cuts, firm cheeses, steaks, burgers, pasta with red sauce and, among other things, Wine Folly suggests melted blue cheese.. And it can be served chilled, though you probably won’t need to do that at this time of year!
We can get some excellent Malbec from Cahors (in the south west of France) where it originated and is known as Côt. But is has found a welcoming home in Argentina and is the country’s most important grape. Indeed most of the world’s Malbec is now grown in Argentina.
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Best Value Wines 2022 Under €18.00. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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A couple of excellent reds: Malbec from Mendoza and a Gamay from the Loire.
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Altos Las Hormigas “Terroir” Malbec Valle de Uco Mendoza 2018,13.5% ABV,
RRP €26.99 The Corkscrew Baggot Street Wines Blackrock Cellar wineonline.ie
The ants (Las Hormigas) love newly planted vines. But the owners didn't want to poison them, after all the ants were the original inhabitants; they lived with the nuisance and then found that the ants had no interest in the vines once they began to grow. (Source: Wines of South America by Evan Goldstein.)
The fruit for this one hundred per cent Malbec comes from the Valle de Uco (in Argentina), an area known for its fine fruit and floral bouquets. Seventy five per cent of the wine is aged for 18 months in concrete piletas (pools) and 25% in untoasted large oak foudres. Then ageing for 6 months in the bottle.
Colour is a mid to deep ruby and there are aromas of plum and cherry; floral and herb notes too. So smooth, fresh and spicy also, the perfect introduction. And so it progresses harmoniously across the palate, the lively acidity playing its part, balancing the sweet ripe fruit all the way through to the long finalé, just a little grip from the tannins. This is a marvellous wine, from producers well respected for their Malbecs, and is Very Highly Recommended.
Suggested pairings are Mediterranean cuisine and red meats. Serve at 16 degrees. Keep for up to 7 years.
Importers Liberty tell us that friends and business partners Alberto Antonini and Antonio Morescalchi have come a long way since they were impressed by Mendoza’s vineyards on their first visit in 1995. “They have gone from being youthful interlopers to one of the country’s leading producers, as well as being pioneers of a more elegant style of Malbec.
Their combined wealth of experience as a winemaking team, as well as their never-ending experimentation and desire to produce the best wines that Argentina can offer, has made Altos Las Hormigas a Malbec specialist, with a reputation as one of the country’s top producers of this variety.
Geek Bits
Régnier David Gamay (IGP) 2018, 12.5%
€19.95 approx Saturday Pop-Up (2-5pm) at Grainstore Ballymaloe
You don’t come across Loire Valley Gamay very often in Ireland but that is indeed where this comes from. It is produced by artisan winemaker Regnier David based in Meigné sous Doué, quite close to the lovely city of Saumur.
Colour is a light ruby, as is more or less usual. Aromas from this 2018 are fruity (Blackberry) and floral (Violet) with hints of soil. it ambushes the palate with succulent fruit (with a bramble spine to it). It offers a generous juiciness, nice bit of acidity too and virtually no tannins in play. Pleasant finish, of medium length. Highly Recommended.
Smith & Whelan are the importers here and are based in Ballymaloe. Sacha Whelan is the grandson of Myrtle and Ian Allen, the couple who started Ballymaloe. S&M specialise in “quality, hand-picked wines that we enjoy drinking ourselves”. Initially, they concentrated on Spanish wines but have gradually expanded their offering into an interesting list.
Pairings: Lighter meat dishes, charcuterie, are fine with Gamays. Cold meats, grilled poultry and cheese, salads, cold meats, grilled poultry, also. In the Loire, I’m told the local delicacy of river eel is a must with this Gamay.
Gamay is the main variety planted in Beaujolais where it thrives on the granite soils. The vast majority of the grape is grown in France and most of that in Beaujolais. Neighbouring regions such as Burgundy and the Loire raise small amounts.
Two Superb Wines from Burgundy and Mendoza for your list. Well worth a try!
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Chateau De Santenay ROC Blanc Mercurey (AC) 2017, 13%
RRP €31.99 wineonline.ie Terroirs
Chateau De Santenay is situated in the central strip of the Côte Chalonnaise which itself is in the middle of the Burgundy vineyard (north to south and leaving aside the isolated Chablis). Here, on that central strip, according to the World Atlas of Wine, “Mercurey is much the best-known appellation…”.
Our 2017 Santenay comes in a bright and clear light-gold colour. Aromas are concentrated, pear and citrus notes, and just a mild hint of vanilla. The mouthfeel is superb, the texture impressing (thanks to its time in oak). For sure it is ample in the mouth, those superb fruity aromas (more of the pear now) continuing and citrus flavours, plus hazelnut hints. Thanks to its stimulating acidity, it has a beautiful balanced path to the finalé.
The Chateau de Santenay is one of the most important Burgundy estates with its 90 hectares spread across 14 appellations planted in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. “We are totally committed to the protection of the environment and the biodiversity of our vineyards.”
The Chateau itself confirms that the grape variety is 100% Chardonnay from a small vineyard in the village of Saone-et-Loire. White wine represents only 10% of the vineyard in Mercurey but it is a very significant proportion. Mercurey blanc has a zesty mineral edginess (from the limestone in the soil). The soils are rich in clay, but the limestone (typical of the Côte Chalonnaise) is “very present” as well as some areas of marl. These characteristics give the white wines of Mercurey a strong structure.
“Our good farming practices allow us to be certified ‘High Environmental Value’ and ‘Terra Vitis’. The soil is managed by tillage, permanent grass cover and that ,with herbicides removed from the process, provide a biologically active soil life. The thinning and green harvesting help to control the yield and maintain good health of the plant by aerating clusters. Winemaking is traditional with moderate pneumatic pressing. Static settlings for 12 hours then fermented in oak barrels. Aged sur lies during 12 to 18 months.”
Pair with pasta, rich fish (salmons tuna) shellfish, mild and soft cheese, charcuterie.
Flichman Dedicado Malbec (Tupungato Mendoza Argentina) 2016, 13.5%
RRP € 29.99 Avoca Handweavers Shops, Molloys Liquor Store (Clonsilla), The 1601, Michael's Mount Merrion, Ely Wine Store Maynooth, wineonline.ie
This Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza (the UCO Valley sub-region) has a deep ruby colour. Ripe red fruits feature in the intense aromas along with hints of spice (from its 12 months in oak). On the complex palate, there is dark fruit and a very fresh structure with concentrated ripe tannins. The finish is long with more fruit and spices. Very Highly Recommended.
You can taste why this is one of Finca Flichman’s signature wines. The finca was founded in 1873 by a Polish immigrant and bought by Sogrape in 1998. It is also very well known for its Caballero de la Cepo, an iconic bottling and one of the earliest super-premium wines.
Importers Liberty: Produced in the Valle de Uco, Mendoza. Made by one of Argentina's rising stars German Barra, fruit for this Malbec is sourced from the Tupungato district of the Uco Valley. Aged for 12 months in French oak, it is full bodied and rich. 100%Malbec.
High altitude Tupungato is the northernmost sub-region of the Uco Valley in Mendoza, at 1300 metres above sea level. The grapes benefit from large diurnal temperature variations which result in a longer growing season. Pedro Parra, the renowned Chilean soil mapping expert, consults on these vineyards.
Flichman tell us that fermentation was carried out over 20-25 days in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation took place, the wine was aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. It is a wine with typical aromas of the variety subtly fused in wood. It presents an excellent level of nuances on the palate.
Charming red wines from
Beaujolais and Mendoza
Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Les Charmes” 2018, 14%
€27.00 Urru in Bandon// Little Green Grocer in Kilkenny // The Connemara Hamper in Clifden // Mary Pawle Wines
Mid-ruby is the colour of this Gamay. And speaking of colour here’s a quote from Jancis Robinson: “Because so many of the world’s wine lovers have been taught to revere alcohol and deep colours in their red wines, Gamay has not had many fans outside Europe.”
Complex aromas, a melange of fruit, floral and vegetal. And again, as was the case with the 2017, we get those pure and deliciously intense flavours of the vivacious fruit, plus the usual fresh acidity, smooth and velvety all the way to the excellent finish, a harmonious trip from initial attack to the finalé. A nailed on Very Highly Recommended for this rewarding wine!
Wine Folly says Gamay is often compared with Pinot Noir (they are related!). “Gamay wines are loved for their delicate floral aromas, subtle earthy notes, and surprising ability to pair with food (even fish!). The best part is, you can find high quality Gamay at a much better price than Pinot Noir.”
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Domaine Bousquet Reserve Malbec 2018, Mendoza Argentina, 14.5%
€22.00 Organico in Bantry //Connemara Hamper// Mortons of Galway Mary Pawle Wines
This Mendoza Malbec comes in a deep violet colour, close to black. Aromas are quite intense, black and red berries in there. Fruit and elegance mark its impressive entry on to the palate. Pronounced fruit flavours with some sweet spices, a touch of vanilla, you may even find a fleeting hint of chocolate here. Sufficient acidity to ensure harmony, medium body with soft tannins and excellent length as well. What’s not to like? Always a favourite here and Very Highly Recommended.
The blend is Malbec (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5), Merlot (5) and Syrah (5). Aged in French Oak for 10 months. They say it is ideal with red meats, sauces, cheeses and pasta dishes.
A 1990 vacation in Argentina was all it took. For third-generation winemaker Jean Bousquet, it was love at first sight. The object of the Frenchman’s desire: the Gualtallary Valley, a scenic, remote, arid terrain high in the Tupungato district of the Uco Valley in Argentina’s Mendoza region, close to the border with Chile. Here, where the condors fly and not a vine in sight, Bousquet discovered his dream terroir, an ideal location in which to nurture organically-grown wines.
From that virgin territory, nothing planted, no water above ground, no electricity, the French wine-making family’s venture is now recognised as the source of some of Mendoza’s finest wines. The vineyard is located in the foothills of the Andes and is an incredible 1200 metres above sea level. Here the thermal amplitude contributes to fully ripened grapes with excellent acidity.
Wines of the World Online Tasting
With Kate Barry
Very much enjoyed my virtual visit to the weekend’s Wines of the World Tasting with our host Kate Barry. She had three wines to go through but each was anonymous, wrapped in a brown bag, for the time being. Kate made us work (fun!) to determine what we were tasting.
But she did it so well, step by step, in simple English. No online technical hiccups here, every word from Kate was loud and clear. And there were smiles, slurps, and a few laughs, easygoing all the way, a very pleasant way indeed to learn about wine - see below for next Virtual Tasting.
Bag No. 1, a white, was first. “We will use our senses: eyes, nose, palate.” Normally, one of the first checks is to see if the wine is corked. If there’s a “damp cardboard” sensation, you’re in trouble. But no need to worry in this case as the closure is a DIAM cork that comes with a guarantee against cork taint.
Kate holds up the first of the wine: “It is lovely and bright with a medium pale colour. Hold your glass at an angle against a sheet of white paper and you can see it’s of medium intensity, lemon with a hint of gold.” Would the nose be medium or pronounced? “Just about medium,” said Kate. Now cover your glass with a hand, swirl, smell. “Woohoo..Absolutely beautiful.” Smell now for fruit, citrus perhaps. “Lemon, lime, here.” Try now for apple and pear. Stone fruit, melon perhaps. Move on to tropical. “A hint of pineapple”. “And I think there’s a tiny bit of white pepper.”
Now we move to the palate. “Get the wine into your mouth and slurp. You’ll notice the difference!” She smiled. “The tip of the tongue will tell us whether it’s dry or not..” Are we salivating? “I think there’s a medium salivation going on, so a medium plus acidity.” Alcohol? Check the glass for legs or tears, the more tears, the more alcohol. Is there a burn at the back of the throat? “I think this is medium.” The body? Take a sip of water (light bodied) and compare. “This is a bit more than water, so light to medium bodied.”
Now to check the flavour intensity. Medium was Kate’s verdict. Flavours include lime, lemon, green apple, a little spice, minerality (more on palate than nose) plus some stone fruit. Measure the length of the finish, how long does the flavour last? Up to five seconds is short, 5-10 medium, above 10 long. “Eight seconds, really refreshing”. Nothing jarring here. “I think it has a loverly balance, a lovely wine. Not complex, simple and easy drinking”
So now for the reveal. Old or new world? Alcohol content? Vintage? Variety or blend? What have we been drinking? It was a Michel Lynch “Nature” Bordeaux (AOC) 2017, 12%, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, a typical blend of the region.
Michel Lynch “Nature” Bordeaux (AOC) 2017, 12%, €16.50 Wines of the World
A lovely pale colour and silver tints, this vintage has an intense bouquet with notes of white flowers and citrus fruit. The palate fresh and harmonious, underpinned by fine intensity and noteworthy mineral tones. Grown from 100% organically grown grapes in the Bordeaux region of France.
The wine pays tribute to Michel Lynch, one of the great names of Bordeaux wine (Irish, of course). Made from a careful selection of organically grown grapes, it contains as little sulphur as possible and has environmentally friendly packaging.
Fat Bastard Malbec Vin de France 2019, 13%, €11.50 Wines of the World
One difference between red and white wines is that red has tannins. “No tannins in white wine. Full stop!”, says Kate. “Tannins is a dry gritty sensation. Some love it, some hate it. The paler the colour, the lighter the tannin. This one is medium grippy, all integrated.”
The label says a lot here: remarkably full bodied (fat bastard), round and generous. The Fat Bastard Malbec is sourced from southern vineyards, between the Languedoc and the Gers regions. Kate took us through each of the reds in the same way as she tasted the white.
This Malbec has an intense colour with a vibrant purple hue. Elegant with aromas of black cherry and hints of vanilla and chocolate. Generous and unctuous with a delicate spicy finish. Kate: “ It’s a simple easy-drinking food wine. Lovely with a meal. Love it with a steak or Spaghetti Bolognese. Cheese too.”
A French wine created by Thierry Boudinaud, a renowned winemaker who has crafted wines from California to Chile to South Africa. It is named after a British expression describing a particularly rich and full wine.
Graham Norton’s Own Shiraz, South Australia 2017, 14.5%, €14.00 Wines of the World
The Graham Norton Shiraz is from South Australia and is a mix of fruit from different regions offering a reasonably complex, concentrated wine with a deep ruby colour. It’s a bold in aroma and on the palate, juicy wine full of character, just like the man himself! Perhaps that’s why they called it Shiraz rather than Syrah (the French name for the grape denotes, mostly, a gentler wine).
Quite a good wine for a tasting actually. The flavours alone, mostly primary, could fill half a page of your notebook! As is often the case in Australia, the fruit comes from different areas, three in this case: “The Barossa, McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek; each brings something different.”
Kate enjoyed tasting this one. “A dry wine with medium plus acidity.” She expected a high alcohol count, judging mainly by the burn at the back of throat, and she was spot on. Lots of primary fruit flavours plus some spice. Excellent finish too and well balanced. “I’m a lover of this wine and I hope you enjoyed it too.” We did, enjoyed the whole session.
Casa Silva - Live Zoom Virtual Tasting March 26th
The next live interactive virtual tasting will feature wine expert Kate Barry and Stephen Ludlam from Casa Silva. Casa Silva is Chile’s most awarded winery of the 21st Century – outstanding wines of great quality and fantastic value. It has the oldest wine cellar in the Colchagua Valley. Beneath its traditional and historic facade, however, is one of Chile’s most modern wine facilities. Should be a superb evening. More details, including booking, here.
Kate will hold another recorded (non Zoom) tasting in mid-April. Keep an eye on the website for details. By the way, Wines of the World also do private tastings for firms and other groups.
Vibrant and Juicy Reds from Austria and Argentina.
Beck Ink Austria 2018, 12.5%,
€19.70 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
The label is dominated by an octopus expelling ink. Not much else though two key words appear: trocken (dry) and Bio-Wein. Not much on the outside then but quality all the way inside this Austrian bottle.
Ink is a fresh, juicy, vibrant and delicious blend of 80% Zweigelt and 20% St. Laurent. Both are traditional Austrian varieties and the former is the most widely planted red-wine grape in the country - by the way, most of wine-growing is done in the eastern part.
Judith Beck is based in Burgenland and has produced wines in accordance with bio-dynamic principles since 2007. There is a possibility of some sediment (none in this bottle) so probably best to decant. No big deal either way.
Interestingly, St Laurent was one of the “parents” (the other was Blaufränkisch) when Zweigelt was created in 1922. Aside from Laurent and Zweigelt, some of the other grapes that come into the light dry red category are Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsault, Grenache and Nebbiolo. Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley (Australia) make quite a good one, a blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah, called LDR.
El Abasto Malbec Mendoza 2018, 14.5%
€18.75 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
This vibrant fruity full-bodied wine is named after an 1983 established market that became also a centre for tango, poetry, and culture.
Mid to dark ruby is the colour. The aromas are full of dark and red fruit, all saying welcome, come on. And in the mouth, it is equally loveable, totally gluggable. That punchy yet soft fruit comes in a medium body, and the wine is smooth right through to the finalé. Put this on your Malbec shortlist. Highly Recommended.
Pair with charcuterie, cold cuts, firm cheeses, steak, burgers, pasta with red sauce. And it can be served chilled, though you probably won’t need to do that at this time of year!
There are, according to Wines of South America, two main factors that help Malbec thrive in Mendoza. The low rainfall (12” as against 30” Bordeaux) and its timing, falling mostly in the summer, promotes ripening and minimises disease. Second, Mendoza’s wide thermal amplitude (put simply, the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures) promotes aromatic development and softened tannins. The proof’s in the glass.
