From Morgan And Lugana. Two Very Highly Recommended Wines.

From Morgan And Lugana. Two Very Highly Recommended Wines.

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Domaine des Souchons “Cuvée Claude Billet” Morgan (AOC) 2018, €18.95 (was €24.95) O’Briens Wine

These days, I find a comfortable certainty when I open a bottle of Beaujolais cru, particularly when that cru is Morgan. And, as soon as I smell the intense straightforward red berry nose, with a touch of spice, from this Cuvée Claude Billet, I know I’m on the money again with this deep ruby coloured wine.

The vibrant fruit and a tingling acidity leaves an excellent impression as it shines everywhere across the palate and through the long and lingering finish, a touch of fine tannins on the lips. What’s not to like here? Very Highly Recommended.

This cuvée is a blend of different plots, notably combining the volcanic terroir of the Cote du Py and the power of the Grand Cras terroir on one of the oldest estates in the Morgon area of Beaujolais. It is owned by the Condamine family whose roots are in these vineyards. This 100% Gamay, with strong character and enjoyable light fruit notes, is perfect with poultry, and they also say that it goes surprisingly well with cooked white fish, such as sole meuniere.

They say: It is at Morgon, a Beaujolais cru, that we carefully tend our 40 parcels that spread over almost 12 hectares. The domaine is subject to six different types of climatic influences, allowing us to produce wines of great richness that reveal their individual terroirs.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Lugana (DOC) 2020, 12%, €14.95 (was 18.95) O’Briens Wine

The shimmering light gold colour of this Rizzardi white dances in the glass and catches the eye. The feel good factor is increased as you sniff the attractive aromas of fruit such as peach and more exotic like mango and pineapple, and there are floral notes as well. 

There is indeed ample fruit (including the exotic) on the palate and a long and lasting finish. Terrific texture all the way thanks to it having been on the lees for two to three months. A subtle acidity is a key factor. Very Highly Recommended.

Excellent, Rizzardi say, with freshwater and saltwater fish dishes, fresh crustaceans, sushi and young cheese. Also ideal as an aperitif. Recommended serving temperature is 10 to 12 degrees. Guerrieri Rizzardi is the result of the union between two venerable winemaking families that date back to the 17th century.

This Lugana is made from Turbiana grapes, historically cultivated widely in the lands surrounding Peschiera del Garda (a town by Lake Garda). The grape is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana and is genetically linked to Verdicchio. The grapes are grown according to the guyot method in various vineyards around the San Benedetto di Lugana area, where the subsoil is abundant in white clay. 

After selection and harvest, the grapes are crushed and then fermented in stainless steel tanks followed by refinement on the lees for 2-3 months, after which the wine is ready to be bottled. This 2020 was first bottled on the 9th of March 2021.

A Duo of Superb Italian Whites from Liberty

A Duo of Superb Italian Whites from Liberty

Cà dei Frati I Frati Lugana (DOC) 2016, 13%, €23.99 Liberty Wines

This winemaker comes highly recommended. “Cà dei Frati of Sirmione in Lombardy is widely regarded as the top Lugana producer,” says Vino Italiano.

Managed since 1939 by the Dal Cero family, The Modern History of Italian Wine notes that the I Frati is simpler than their well-known Brolettino “but no less reliable. It offers guaranteed value year after year and is perfect for approaching this type of wine.” The Brolettino, by the way, is also available from Liberty.

But what exactly is this type of wine in its thick-lipped bottle? I wondered too, especially when I saw that the grape is Turbiana, one hundred per cent. After a fair bit of digging, I find that Turbiana is the local name for Verdicchio. 

Sirmione is just to the south of Lake Garda. Cool nights, thanks to the moderating influence of the lake, ensures the grapes retain nice aromas and acidity. The wine is unoaked and has spent six months on its lees.

Light straw is the colour. There are fairly intense aromas, a mix of white fruit and blossom. Fresh flavours, of peach and mainly citrus, follow; there is a lively acidity and it is rich and crisp plus an excellent finish. It does indeed live up to the build-up and is Very Highly Recommended.

Franz Haas Pinot Grigio 2016 Alto Adige DOC), 13.5%, €22.99 Liberty Wines

Franz Haas is a consultant and scholar and also a founding member of the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia, whose objective is “to protect and augment the prestige of wine producers that have been making wines with the highest ratings for at least twenty years”. He is also, according to Vino Italiano, “one of the biggest and most respected brand names in the Alto Adige… Good wines across the board.”

Pinot Grigio is considered a simple wine but if harvested and vinified with care, shows enjoyable notes of acidity and intense perfume. Our bottle is quite impressive; “four months on its yeast to build body, depth and structure” has certainly helped.

The rise, and rise, of PG is relatively recent. In 2000, it didn't figure in the top 20 most planted grapes in Italy (ISMEA, Rome, 2000, via Vino Italiano). By 2010, it had risen to number nine ((ISTAT, 6th General Census of Agriculture (2010)), its 17,281 hectares representing an increase of over 60%.

This Franz Haas has a pale straw yellow colour. There are pretty intense floral aromas, herbal notes too. The intensity continues on the palate, pleasant and elegant. This Pinot Grigio is a gem, far from simple; it has excellent acidity and Very Highly Recommended.

Pair with pasta, vegetable dishes, grilled white meat without sauces and great with a summer salad from the garden. You might tell your twenty-something daughters that it doesn't mix well with 7Up!