Rosso di Caparsa Toscano (IGT), 13% ABV
RRP 23.95; Stockists:, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork, Le Caveau online
A natural expression of a traditional grape from the heart of Tuscany
This Caparsa Sangiovese has a brilliant medium red colour. Sangiovese aromas can
Varietal Verdejo has its challengers but this Casa Maria is a good one!
Cuatro Rayas Casa Maria Verdejo Vino De La Tierra De Castilla Y Leon 2019, 13% ABV
RRP €12.85. Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork
The label tells us that this Verdejo wine is from a careful selection of the indigenous grape variety, and harvested when perfectly ripe.
The colour is an attractive pale yellow. Aromas are also pleasant, of apple and lime. And that combination, with herbal hints (the slightest whiff of fennel), also appears in the smooth and fresh palate, followed by a dry lingering finish.
With its high acidity and a suggestion of bitterness, Verdejo makes an excellent food wine but is noted mostly for its compatibility with fish so pair this light-bodied wine with shellfish and fresh fish (importers Le Caveau suggest a simply grilled piece of fresh mackerel). Should be excellent as well with the Fish Tacos that I've enjoyed from time to time in Cork’s Good Day Deli. The label also recommends it as an aperitif with olives.
Highly Recommended
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Bodega Cuatro Rayas is the largest and arguably the most important producer of wines in the Rueda DO. Established in 1935, the cooperative has evolved to become a state-of-the-art winery, where the focus is to make quality wine, in an environmentally-friendly manner.
Most of the world’s Verdejo is grown in Spain and most of that in Rueda. Nevertheless, its prominence in Rueda is being challenged by the international Sauvignon Blanc. Furthermore, Chardonnay and Viognier were added to the DO regulations in 2020. Wine-Searcher.com continues: Before this a generic Rueda DO still white wine had to feature at least 50 percent Verdejo. Now it must include the same minimum of Verdejo OR Sauvignon Blanc.
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Vino Bellotti Rosso. A vibrant red. Simply the best!
Semplicemente Vino Bellotti Rosso 2021, 13.5% ABV
RRP: €23.95. Stockists include 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
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Best Value Wines 2022 Under €18.00. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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The late Stefano Bellotti, the producer, described this as a frank and direct wine. “It doesn’t pretend to be anything that it’s not. It doesn’t get you into any trouble. Pasta’s best friend!”
This red blend, of mostly Barbera (c 80%) and Dolcetto, is mid to dark ruby in colour. Ripe red fruits in the aromas, herbal notes as well, even a hint of undergrowth (someone here mentioned dirty boots!). Vibrant and friendly on the palate, tart fruit flavours prominent. Fresh and juicy too with a spicy dry (very dry!) finish. A simple country wine to enjoy with charcuterie and or cheese, or just as an aperitif. Very enjoyable indeed and Highly Recommended. The white Semplicemente is terrific too.
Cascina degli Ulivi, according to the website, is a family winery established on a farm. Stefano Bellotti was the person who ran it until he died in 2018. He is considered one of the fathers of biodynamics in Italy. He started making natural wines in 1977 and cultivated his vineyards following biodynamic principles since 1984. His daughter Ilaria took over the reins from her father and seeks to preserve and transmit his legacy.
They suggest pairing the red with Rice (with meat), Roasts and as Aperitif; serve at 16 degrees. Beef filled ravioli would be another good pairing as would the Rigatoni with Ragu Napoletano (with six-hour braised beef) that they serve in Cork’s Bella Napoli.
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| Ragu Napoletano at Cork's Bella Napoli |
Le Caveau are strong on this one: “The first sniff I took brought me back over ten years to a month spent in Piemonte where this kind of unpretentious, simple, but utterly delicious wine was served as a foil to the hearty and rich food of the Langhe hills……Quirky, authentic and a real vino per gli amici. Would be great to share over a plate of charcuterie, cheese and good prosciutto."
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Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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Two hard to resist. A Gamay from Brouilly and a Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero.
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Lapalu Vieilles Vignes Brouilly (AC) 2019, 13%
€30.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Mid ruby is the colour of this 100% Gamay from Brouilly in Beaujolais. It carries, more or less, the expected aromas of the grape in the area: red berries and violets. And, on the palate, the fruit and acidity give quite a delicious complexity. Refreshing for sure right to the finish. Some of that complexity no doubts come from the fact that the wine stays at least a half year on its fine lees. I’m always pleased when I have a Beaujolais cru in my hand and particularly pleased with this one. Very Highly Recommended.
The crus produce the flagship wines of Beaujolais and there are ten cru areas in all: Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à -Vent. Each cru will have its own flavour characteristics thanks to the differing soil profiles across the region. You won’t get the Brouilly minerality in every cru.
A cru here can be a fairly serious to serious wine but that doesn’t preclude it from being light and refreshing, even easy-drinking! And, by the way, do feel free to cool this one a little before serving, just like they do in France!
Food pairings suggested include: charcuterie, paté, cheese, seafood paella, roast ham, pork chops, roast lamb, roast chicken, chicken tagine, and turkey and with spicy Asian dishes.
Le Caveau say: Brouilly Vieilles Vignes is the combination of two cuvées, one made by carbonic maceration, the other a traditional vinification with destemmed grapes, the cuvaison lasts for 10 to 20 days. The two cuvées are then assembled after their malolactic fermentation and spend the winter in stainless steel tanks. The dark red fruits on the nose and palate can’t disguise a probing minerality; if ever granite was translated into liquid this is the case.
Viña Fuentenarro “4 Mesas En Barrica” Ribera Del Duero (D0) 2018, 14%
€16.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, since the end of the 20th century, the 300 plus bodegas of Ribera Del Duero are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.
This deep red Fuentenarro (from a family owned winery) is a 100% Tempranillo. Traditional aromas of dark berry fruit, touch of spice. Big intro of fruit and spice, no shortage of acidity either, juicy yet dry. Powerful start eases smoothly down to super-long finish. One to sip - a little goes a long way - and enjoy your long lunch or dinner as the sun goes down. Even if September (perhaps not this September!) is a little early in the year for it, the Fuentenarro is Very Highly Recommended. That it is well priced is a bonus.
Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide.
The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid.
Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity.
Something different from Alsace and Verona, both wines highly recommended.
Vino Nato Disobbediente Monte Dall’Ora 2019 11.5%
€24.45 (litre bottle) 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
This blend, of pergola-trained 60% Corvinone & 40% Molinara, from the hills outside of Verona (think Valpolicella), has a quite light ruby red colour. Corvinone has been previously thought to be of the same group as Corvina but 1993 DNA profiling suggests that it is its own unique varietal.
Aromas here are both floral and fruity (strawberry, raspberry, cherry). The taste is along similar lines, relatively intense. On the palate also, you will find a lively acidity before a dry finish. A very pleasant wine indeed and Highly Recommended. It is a certified organic wine, clean and classy.
Not very much info on the “redacted” label, not even a vintage date! Pretty certain it is 2019 though and that is what is on my invoice. The wine’s name, Vino Nato Disobbediente, means Wine Born Disobedient.
Two other words that survive on the front are resistente and contadino which Google translates as Hardy Farmer! And there’s a bit of sense to that as this type of wine, light and red (that can also take a little chilling), is made by the farmers for their own family use. And, another thing, it comes in a litre bottle. “A litre of pure joy!” According to importers Le Caveau; I willingly agree with that assessment.
The Venturinis, Alessandra and Carlo, have emphasized traditional and native grape varieties wherever possible to give originality and typicality. All the wines are blends of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Oseleta. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts and extraction is gentle giving wines of gentle, cherry-fruited elegance.
Christian Binner, Côtes d’AmourSchwir Alsace (AOP) 2013, 13.5%
€28.95 (was 33.50) 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
This light, fruity and fresh blend of white grapes from the Alsace is a traditional selection of mainly Riesling and Pinot Gris with lesser inputs via Gewuztraminer, Muscat and Auxerrois blanc.
Colour is orange-y. It is an intensely aromatic wine, lots of fruit and floral notes also. No shortage of fruit either on the palate, “a fruit basket of apples, oranges, poached pears and grapes” according to importers Le Caveau. Balance is attained though. It finishes long and dry. If you do like to stray off the usual piste, this is well worth a try. Highly Recommended.
Serve at less than 14 degrees; grilled fish is an excellent match.
Harvest is manual, all grapes pressed together, fermented with indigenous yeast. It is a medium body structured wine. Zero sulfur added, unfined, unfiltered, so you may see a little sediment as I did.
Côtes d’Amourschwir is a selection from the best vineyards on the Cotes d’Ammerschwir. It is a blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewuztraminer, Muscat and Auxerrois. The grapes are blended from the press, fermentation takes place is large oak foudre that are over 100 years old.
The Binner family has owned vines in Alsace since 1770 and today they practice organic and biodynamic agriculture, neither fine nor filter the wine, use only natural yeasts, use minimal sulphur, etc... All the wines are aged in 100 year old big foudres and undergo malolactic fermentation.
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| The folks behind Bonne Tonne in Beaujolais, my "discovery" of the year via Mary Pawle! |
