Bellissimi Vini. Beautiful Wines from La Biancara

Bellissimi Vini. Beautiful Wines from La Biancara.

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Bianco Veneto (IGT) 2017, 11.5%, €18.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Early 2018 in Dublin, Francesco Maule, the son of the founders of La Biancara, stressed the importance of having a “very good quality grape”, otherwise there is the risk of extracting “bad things”. In the cellar, “nothing is added, nothing is removed”. You can taste the result in this Masieri white (and also in the red).

Colour: Light straw, cloudy. Aromas are complex, yet moderate; white fruit (apples) in the mix. Excellent mouthfeel as it spreads across, citrus and stone-fruit flavours combined with an energetic acidity. The citrus influenced finish is lengthy with no shortage of minerality. Very Highly Recommended. Quite often in the past, Garganega has underachieved but here, thanks to the Maule family, its potential has been realised.

Francesco Maule

It consists of 90% Garganega and 10% other varieties. It is unfiltered, hence the slight cloudiness. The grapes, which are the fruit of vines in volcanic soils grown using natural methods, are fermented spontaneously. It can be combined, the Maules say, with lasagna of asparagus, pasta with pesto alla genovese, amberjack carpaccio and baccalà alla vicentina. Best of luck with those dishes but at least you have a few hints.

Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines here are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I favour) of southern Italy.

Angiolino Maule is one of the founding figures of natural farming and wine-making in Italy. He has been setting an example in both practices since the late 1980’s and is now assisted by his two sons, Francesco and Alessandro.

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Rosso Veneto (IGT) 2018,  14.0%, €22.25 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

The label tells us this red is a blend of Merlot (50%) and Tai Rosso (50). In some years Cabernet Sauvignon is used. Tai Rosso is more or less the same grape as Grenache. Spontaneously fermented grapes, from vines grown in volcanic soils using natural methods, this is an unfiltered wine, without added sulphites.

Colour is a deep ruby. Cherry and blackberry in the aromas, also some floral elements. It is fresh and juicy on the harmonious palate, a touch of spice features too, a hint of liquorice there too, tannins well-integrated. Easy-drinking from start to impressive finish and Very Highly Recommended.

The Maule Family "at Forefront of Natural Wine Movement"

Maule Family "at Forefront of Natural Wine Movement" 

Francesco Maule

La Biancara was born in the end of 80s, when pizza makers Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule bought a small plot of land, about six hectares, in the hills of Gambellara. Since the beginning, they work to develop their personal idea of wine; a wine created by the exaltation of nature, without chemicals interferences in wineyard or in cellar, in order to obtain the highest expression of terroir in every bottle. 

No chemicals? How can this be done? Here’s one way. In La Biancara, there are 14 specimens of mites predators every 10 cm of shoot. Read more here. 

Last September, at a Veneto Masterclass in Dublin, Dario Poddana (Les Caves de Pyrene) praised the Maule family and said they were at the forefront of the natural wine movement, and not just in Italy. “It is interesting to see how classic ways are being rediscovered, a mix of extreme tradition and extreme modernism." 

Pascal of Le Caveau (who import the Maule wines to Ireland) said that this type of wine seems to have found a natural ally in the chefs that forage and said these restaurants “react well to it”.

And, in general, Francesco Maule, the son of the founders, stressed the importance of having a “very good quality grape”, otherwise there is the risk of extracting “bad things”. In the cellar, “nothing is added, nothing is removed”.

La Biancara is in Gambellara. Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I favour) of southern Italy.

Maule Garganega Masieri Veneto (IGT) 2016, 12%, €17.95 Bradley’s Cork, Le Caveau.

So here I am in deep Winter with a couple of bottles of Maule, starting with the white. Garganega is the grape from which Soave is made and here it accounts for 90% of the blend that also includes Trebbiano. The vines grow in volcanic soil. Both wines are unfiltered and no sulphites are added.

It has a strawy colour, slightly clouded. It is dry, fresh and is smooth and dewy on the palate. The year 2016 was a very hot one and the fruit benefited. The finish is lengthy with no shortage of minerality. Very Highly Recommended.

The family produce, also from the Garganega, a frizzante and a recioto. Le Caveau list the former but, sadly, not the latter!

Maule Masieri rosso Veneto (IGT) 2016, 14%, €20.95 Bradley’s Cork, Le Caveau.

In Dublin, Francesco called this their “basic red”. It is a blend of Merlot (50%), Tai Rosso (40) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10), again from the hot 2016 vintage. Tai Rosso is more or less the same grape as Grenache.

This deep ruby wine has ripe red fruit and hints of spice in the aromas. It is fresh with red fruit on the palate and that spice too. Francesco described the tannins as “a little aggressive” but, by Christmas, they have calmed down! Quality on the palate and on the finish as well. Really well-balanced and Very Highly Recommended.