So much to see and do, to eat and drink in the Kingdom of Kerry

The Kingdom of Kerry and its spectacular scenery will keep you occupied and entertained on your holiday break.

Carrantwohill is Ireland's highest mountain.

Well fed also! You're on a winner with local beers, whiskeys and friendly people

Our 2024 trip was based at Killeen House Hotel. Now under the ownership of seasoned hotelier Patrick Eviston, it offers a blend of warm Irish hospitality and exquisite French cuisine at Rozzers Restaurant led by Chef Cyrille Durand. Located just outside Killarney, the hotel features stunning views of the Kerry mountains and serves as a great base for exploring the region. 

Rozzers Restaurant delivers an exceptional dining experience with a menu that includes delights such as Seared Castletownbere Scallops and Fricassée of Monkfish Poppadoms, showcasing fresh Irish ingredients with French flair. The tempting dessert selection and extensive wine list further enhance the meal.

Hake breakfast at Killeen

 

Additionally, guests can enjoy friendly service and a delicious breakfast that includes options like Spiced Pear and Mini Irish breakfasts. With the combined expertise of the team, Killeen House and Rozzers are is becoming a standout destination for those seeking culinary excellence and memorable experiences in Killarney.

Over three days, we explored the food and drink scene around Killarney and Kenmare. Starting from Cork, we enjoyed lunch at the Nua Vista restaurant (in the Ring of Kerry Golf Club), where the standout dish was the Thornhill Confit Duck leg with Sweetcorn and Oyster mushrooms. We also visited the Avoca shop to stock up on local items, including West of Dingle Sea Salt. 

Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber at Nua Vista 

Beautiful ware by Ross Kenmare

After a stop at spectacular Torc Waterfall, we headed to Killarney Brewing and Distilling, a neighbour of Killeens House, where we bought some interesting beers. Dinner back at Rozzers included lovely Spiced Pears and Hake. 

Killarney Brewing and Distilling at Fossa, includes restaurant and tours

On the second day, we had lunch at the Stables Brasserie (at Sheen Falls), where we enjoyed another excellent serving of Thornhill Confit Duck Leg. A visit to the Killarney Urban Farm followed, showcasing local produce. We also travelled to the Muckross House area, admiring the tulip gardens before enjoying a hearty lunch at An Síbín on the Beara Peninsula.

The Stables (at Sheen Falls Hotel)

Coming or going to Killarney from Cork, check out the Ballyvourney Mills Inn. This popular dining spot has regained its lively atmosphere after COVID. The extensive menu includes various starters and mains, with a standout dish being the Cajun Spiced Chicken Fillet Burger. The highlight of our meal was the warm homemade Apple Pie, described as one of the best encountered in years. The recommendation is to plan a longer visit to fully enjoy the food and friendly service.

Coming or going, take a relaxing break at Ballyvourney Mills Inn.

Kells Bay Gardens

Kells Bay Gardens is a premier horticultural destination in Europe, known for its collection of tree ferns and exotic plants thriving in a unique microclimate from the Gulf Stream. The gardens, owned by Chelsea Flower Show Gold Medal winner Billy Alexander, feature various rare sub-tropical plants and even new dinosaur sculptures.

Dining options include the Sala Thai, which offers a range of meals. We enjoyed a selection platter of flavourful starters in the conservatory café and indulged in delightful desserts like lychees in syrup and homemade banana fritters.

The Sky Walk at Kells Bay Gardens

The gardens are divided into sections such as The Palm and Succulent Garden and The Waterfall Walk, with the Skywalk being a highlight at 120 feet long and 36 feet high rope bridge, providing a thrilling experience. You can even stay overnight here to explore more in the morning.

Walking towards Bray Head on Valentia Island

Bray Head Tower Walk on Valentia Island is an accessible hike offering stunning views of the Skellig Islands, Portmagee, and the ocean. The walk begins at a designated car park accessible via a short drive from Portmagee.

The crab stuffed Sole Paupiettes (with Sauce Vin Blanc) at The Mad Monk

The Mad Monk by Quinlans

The Mad Monk is a relatively new seafood restaurant by Quinlan’s Seafood located on Plunkett Street in Killarney. One standout dish is the Portmagee Crab Bake, served with a Tomato and Avocado Salsa salad and sourdough bread. The restaurant spans two floors with a capacity for about 80 diners, and is operated by the second generation of the Quinlan family, who have a long history in the seafood business. 

The menu also features a variety of seafood, including Portmagee Oysters, Dingle Bay Wild Squid, and a selection of white fish options. Key dishes include the Pan Roasted Fillet of Hake and the Pan Fried Fillet of Salmon, both highly praised for their quality and presentation. 

Tulips at Muckross House

The restaurant also offers a good selection of wines and local ales on tap. While meat dishes are available, Quinlan’s is particularly recommended for seafood lovers. Overall, the restaurant is very highly recommended.

Yuzu Cake for dessert at the Tan Yard in Killarney's Plaza Hotel

The Tan Yard restaurant in the Plaza Hotel, in Killarney town centre, is another lively dining spot. Look out for their three-course meal that showcases the local produce.  That meal options may include a Gubbeen Chorizo Croquette starter, Lamb Rack as a main, and dessert options like Yuzu Cake or Irish Farmhouse Cheese, with local beers from Killarney Brewing available. Great choices, terrific atmosphere and friendly service. You may well want to overnight in this hotel, owned by O'Donoghue Ring Group.

* Based mostly on a 3-day trip in 2024

View from Killeens House

Gardens at Muckross House

Torc Waterfall

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary 

Day 1

Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber at Nua Vista 

Beautiful ware by Ross Kenmare

We had three days or so to check out the eating and drinking scene in the Kingdom. Well, more like in Killarney and Kenmare. It would take much more than three days to sample the full county!

Headed off from Cork for Kenmare on a good enough day. The "new" driver made

Dingle Drive. Slea Head, Clogher Head, Ceann Sibeál. Sunny. Windy.

Heading for the great outdoors? Why not take this Dingle drive? 

Including Slea Head, Clogher Head, and Ceann Sibeál.

By all means, visit and linger at Slea Head. You may even take time out to climb the hill alongside and that will open out even more splendid views. Don't worry too much about the weather. It was very windy when we visited. Do wrap up well and don't do anything silly near the water.

After Slea, head for Clogher and climb to the top for a magnificent 360 degree view. It is not the easiest of walks but not that tough either. But good footwear is essential, as there are quite a lot of muddy patches and standing water around and you'll need all the support you can carry, including a walking stick.

Slea Head.

On Clogher, looking inland

Slea Head, from the roadway.

Sybil, from Clogher

The Three Sisters From Clogher.

Sybil, from Clogher

Heading towards the top of Clogher

Slea Head

Taken from Clogher

Looking inland from Clogher

The dead man or the sleeping giant. Inis Tuaisceart taken from Clogher. 

While shooting the waves at Slea Head last week, I happened to get this shot. The bird was walking quickly up and down the rocks near the wall of the road down to the sand. Not very well up on seabirds but, thanks to @RichardTMills, I now know it is a Ruddy Turnstone. The Turnstone is a highly migratory bird, travels the world, flying thousands of miles.

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom. Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom.

Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

The strand from high up on Clogher.

We got in of our favourite walks, Bray Head on Valentia Island. A brewery tour and terrific food at the Tom Crean Base Camp was another highlight. Lucky too in that we stayed at three lovely places, all helpful, especially Hannah at Muxnaw Lodge who drove us back into town for dinner when we asked for a taxi. The weather in Kenmare was wet but we had a magical night strolling around Dingle’s harbour after a massive feed at the Fish Box. And much more on a recent 3-night 4-day trip in Kerry.

Dingle boats

The drive down from Cork took us first to Tralee and a look at the impressive Tralee Bay Wetlands Eco & Activity Park. Lots of activity here for families, including pedal boats on the lake and a massive climbing wall for the adventurous. Had hoped to enjoy a lunch here but it wasn’t to be; all the café had to offer were over-sweetened waffles. Perhaps the menu will expand as the season goes on and as more visitors come. Our server did indicate that they hope to have sandwiches and salads (these already appear on the online menu).

Soon we were on the road to Dingle via the Conor Pass of course. Great views of Dingle from the parking area at the top and they get a little better if you climb up the hill alongside. A few minutes later we were in Dingle itself and heading for the coast. Both Ventry and Slea Head were packed so our first real stop was Clogher. Time for another walk to the top here and great 360 views that include the Blaskets and Sybil Head.

Fish Box on Green Street, Dingle

Craft Ale by Dick Mack

Enjoyed that interlude and we headed back to Dingle and to Bambury’s Guest-house, our base for the night. Enjoyed the welcome here and took it easy for a short spell before heading out looking for food. The Fish Box was our destination. It was first come first served. We didn't have to wait long for our table in one of their outside booths. Here they have some sixty covers. 

The owners, the Flannery family, have their own boat and the menu is mainly about fish. Quality is good but quantity is massive.  Ours,  The Fish Box and the Spice Box, came not on  plates but on trays. Quite a choice here but if you are going for one of the boxes you’d be advised to skip the starter. We didn’t! 

We saw pints coming in. The Fish Box is more or less next door to Dick Macks and you can enjoy the ale and the stout from the micro-brewery. And there’s also cider from Stonewell and a short wine list. After that, we strolled down to the water where the views and sounds of the sea and the many boats were enthralling. Great buzz there too with people hanging out, some going  canoeing and others returning from their boat trips.

Bray Head Walk

Glenbeigh mussels in the hotel

Next morning after a lovely breakfast from Bernie and her Bambury team, we were on the road again, this time heading for the Iveragh peninsula. First stop was the car park for Bray Head Walk at the southern end (Portmagee) of the island. There is a parking charge of two euro. We’ve had better days on this marvellous walk but even on a dull day it is enjoyable with views out towards the Skelligs, the cliffs and back towards Portmagee  and the bridge (on which my father worked) that links it to the island. I didn’t time it but I think the walk to the tower at the top and return takes something under 90 minutes, probably less if you’re under 70 and not taking so many photos!

Glenbeigh Hotel breakfast

Our base for the night was the old Glenbeigh Hotel with its own parking and large gardens. Though most of the meals are served in the old bar, a large one, they also have a beautifully decorated Garden Room where we enjoyed a really good breakfast. No surprise to us at that stage as the evening meal was quite splendid and featured some excellent fish dishes including their Seafood Mariniere for example, packed with fish (fresh salmon and white fish) and shellfish (mussels and prawns). There’s a very friendly and efficient team in place. The only downside was the hit and miss (mostly miss) WiFi.

We could see over the gardens to Rossbeigh beach from our window and we headed there after breakfast for a long walk. Back on the road then, heading for a stop at Waterville. Busy enough here with Micko Dwyer and Charlie Chaplin in their usual positions.

We had some early afternoon appointments in Kenmare so didn’t have as much time as usual to dally. The rain arrived in Kenmare at the same time as ourselves and kept getting worse until about seven in the evening by which time we had packed in a lot, including our visit to Tom Crean’s.

That started with a tour of the micro-brewery given by co-founder and brewer Bill Sheppard. Like his wife, Aileen Crean O’Brien (grand-daughter of the famous Antarctic explorer Tom), Bill is a get and go person. They now have a range of about eight beers and you can read all about them and the tour here. Bill's tour includes details on the beer and his method of brewing of course but he also details Tom Crean’s adventures there along with the tale of the trip that the family made to the region in 2016.

Breads in the morning at Muxnaw

 Aileen is the cook here, quite an accomplished one indeed. Watch out for her fish dishes. I reckon her Star Seafood Fish Pie is as good as you’ll get anywhere! And, of courses we had a few beers, including their lovely 6 Magpies Stout to go with the food.

After the tour, we had headed to nearby Muxnaw Lodge (WiFi didn’t function here either) in its lofty location overlooking the bridge. Here, we asked owner Hannah to phone a taxi for us to return for the meal. She wasn’t having any of it and drove us over herself! We really appreciated that very much indeed and the lovely breakfast the following morning.

Also on this trip: Tom Crean Base Camp Kenmare where you'll find a B&B, a micro-brewery and a restaurant. Eat, Drink and Sleep!

A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom

A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom

The view from Bray Head walk

With the best of lodgings booked, her majesty and myself headed off to the Kingdom of Kerry one sunny morning in July. The natives were friendly and we were well watered and fed in the triangle between Killarney, Valentia and Dingle.

After a superb lunch at the well-appointed and newly established Kingdom 1795 in Killorglin , we drove on south-west to the Island of Valentia. The plan was to take the spectacular walk on Bray Head. So we paid our two euro (no royal exceptions, apparently) in the car park and headed up.

On Valentia

Old Barracks, Cahersiveen

And up, and up. All the time, the views (including the Skelligs) kept improving as we, and quite a few others, took the path towards the top. We came back the same way we went up, didn't do the full loop. On the way down, just managed to stop a doctor (the fly) from biting my arm. Haven't see one of those in years.

Back on the road and next stop was the nearby town of Cahersiveen. Had a little walk around here, taking in the massive church of Daniel O’Connell (The Liberator), the impressively restored Old Barracks (must do a detailed visit next time) and the monks in a boat sculpture on the way out of town. No plaque on that sculpture and I’m not certain if it is to do with monks rowing out to the Skelligs or St Brendan and company heading to America. Anyone enlighten me?

Glenbeigh Hotel

By the time we reached Glenbeigh we were rather thirsty so called into the small Glenbeigh Hotel for a reviving drink in the dark and old-fashioned but popular bar.

Time was running out so we headed to base for the night. And what a base the Hotel Europe proved to be. Amazing space and comfort here. But we were soon on the road again, heading for a 7.00pm dinner in Malarkey’s the new stomping ground in Killarney of expert chef Seamus O'Connell (ex Ivory Tower).

Back to base, well back to the Europe’s exceptionally comfortable bar, its friendly staff and its drinks list as long as your arm. Thought I’d treat myself to a cocktail and the Brandy Alexander fitted the bill after the multi-course meal in Malarkey’s.

The hotel is huge, 180 rooms, and we saw many of the guests at breakfast in the amazing Panorama restaurant the following morning, panorama because it boasts great views of the beautiful lakes. Must be hard to cater for that many people. The Europe uses the buffet method to good effect. Good but, unlike the rest of the operation, hardly five-star.

Chocs in Crinkle Store, Dingle

Still, we were fed, and fit enough for the second leg of the progress. Off we went to Slea Head, a popular spot for us and for many many more. July may not be the best time to drive that narrow road, especially if you have Italy’s slowest driver in front of you! Thought they were all super fast. So much for stereotypes!

After that trip it was back to Dingle for lunch at the packed Boatyard on the waterfront. Not bad at all but I thought my crab claws were excessively expensive, almost 17 euro for six with a little salad, chorizo and garlic butter. A fairly basic dish by comparison with what I got in the excellent Pier 26 in Ballycotton a week before: at least 10 claws, superbly prepared and presented, for just €12.00. 

Slea Head

High Notes. Dingle

After a look at the weekly market - it was closing up at that stage - and  a little shopping around town, we headed back. We could see Inch Strand ahead, lots of activity there, so we stopped and enjoyed a good stroll, taking in all the activity on the water, on the sand, and even in the air (kite-flying). Amazing the amount of cars and vans and campers that were parked on the beach. But where else could they park?

No big rush to turn around quickly at the Europe this time. They have an fantastic display of flowering shrubs here, all the way on through the drive and then all around the various sections of the car park. Top class.

Inch Beach

Brandy cocktail Europe

Our dinner that evening was in Nick’s in Killorglin… I’m saying “nothing at all”. Back in the marvellous hotel, we had a wander through the fantastic lounge areas, areas (including the library) that are well used, before ending up with our friends in the bar. Drinks this time included a Negroni (I do rather like that cocktail), some local beers from Killarney Brewing Company and that non alcoholic cider by Cronin’s (another Kerry company).

All good things come to an end and the following morning we had to settle up but thanks to the children’s generous present (for our recent 50th) we didn’t have to dig too deep at all!

How about this? On the way back, we were in traffic on the bridge in Macroom - not as bad as it can be - when we saw a heron standing on the parapet, calmly watching the cars go by!

Also on this trip: Malarkey in Killarney
Kingdom 1795 Killorglin

Tasting Malarkey's at Rebel O'Connell's New Kingdom Base

Tasting Malarkey's at Rebel O'Connell's New Kingdom Base. 

Amazingly substantial 6th course of Tasting menu; amazingly delicious too!

It’s hot in the kitchen at Malarkey, the Killarney restaurant just opened by chef-patron Seamus O’Connell, best known for his years of good food, fun and frustration in Cork’s Ivory Tower. 

Pilsner from 9 White Deer

Service is in full swing. Probably just as well the restaurant, with its eye-catching decor both upstairs and downstairs, is not packed. The staff are extra busy though because they are also showing their new beer garden to the trade in Killarney and serving boxty and bubbles to their many guests.

After a superb meal, I take up an invite from one of the staff to have a look out back and am surprised at the overall size of the premises that Seamus has taken on and at how much work has already been done here.

Before I go, I get a chance to saw hello and have a brief word with the man himself. And he tells me that his biggest problem in these early months is the lack of staff, especially chefs. Seamus himself just has to work harder but there is no sign of the kitchen pressure on the plates. We have just enjoyed a superb 7-course Tasting Menu.

Choices are amazing here. Our Tasting Menu (Tasting Malarkey) is €50.00 each and he has a different Tasting Menu (Fusion De Luxe) priced at €70.00. There is a set menu (with lots of choice) for what seems good value at €30.00. And if you really want choice, just take a look at the A La Carte where you’ll have to allow extra time to make decisions; there are no less than 19 starters listed, including four of boxty.

Wild Salmon cured with Alder smoked salt in herbs

Wood pigeon, with beetroot

The finalé at Killarney's Malarkey. Toffee Apple crumble with smoked treacle ice-cream.

Nettle and Knotweed Soup (duck and orange centrepiece)

Crubeens with smoky onion poitín

Halibut with lobster sauce. And it is, but there’s some delicious bits of bacon and cabbage as well.