Jacques. Encore.
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| Crab |
Jacques, now into its fifth decade, continues to set the gold standard for Cork restaurants. Our visit last week was a delightful confirmation that it remains as exceptional and reliable as ever.
Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by the
Schnitzel seems to be having a moment on menus. Excellent example at Jacques
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| Schnitzel |
Schnitzel seems to be having a moment on restaurant menus. I came across the dish, which may be of Austrian or German origin, in Harrow^ in Killarney in March, in Westport’s Pantry & Corkscrew^^ in April and last week at Jacques in Cork. The first two were pork while the Cork version had chicken.
Veal and other meats (even turkey) may be used. Early last year, in The Tannery, they served a Quail schnitzel (with green peppercorn and wild garlic butter, seasonal vegetables) as a starter.
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| Scallops |
They have five on offer, two white (well, one of those is an ”orange” Grüner Veltliner), two reds (a Tempranillo from Castille and a Sangiovese from Montepulciano. And there’s also an organic, Low Intervention Blanc De Blanc Frissant by Maison Idiart of Provence.
From the tap, we enjoyed a Spanish white, Verdejo by Los Aljibes, crisp and balanced, tropical nose and lingering finish. Easy drinking and good with Snitzel! Before all that we had a warm welcome from Jacque herself and her staff (including one of our own third generation), so we felt very much at home, as we always do here.
Back to the Schnitzel. I've rarely seen it on an Irish menu previously but Schnitzel is tenderised meat covered in breadcrumbs and fried until golden and crispy. That’s the basic description but the word could well start quite a debate if you have a German and an Austrian talking about it!
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| Strawberries! |
The Jacques dish is Chicken Schnitzel, White Cabbage, Pickled Vegetable, Rustic Potatoes, with "My Goodness" Red Cabbage and it is delicious, made more so by the inspired accompaniment of crunchy cabbage, the tang of the pickled veg and that gorgeous Red Cabbage by My Goodness. Lots of flavours, a great piece of chicken and some very pleasant, crunchy veg. A long way from some of the examples I got while staying at 3-star country hotels in Austria about 20 years ago, pork everywhere and most of it tough.
CL also had a mid-European touch in her mains: Seared Castletownbere Scallops, Cauliflower, Sweet & Sour Onion, Nuts, Caherbeg Blackpudding, Raisins, Crispy Rosti. Not exactly the same Rosti as you'd typically get in Switzerland but a good one and the by now classic combination of scallops and black pudding (both from West Cork) came up trumps again.
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| Arancini |
And I would finish with another West Cork classic: Bushby Strawberries, Vanilla Ice Cream, Elderflower, and Praline Crumb. Hard to beat Bushbys when it comes to top-quality flavoursome strawberries and, by the way, the Jacques serving is generous. And, at the other side of the table, CL was humming away as her Boozy Tiramisu vanished off the plate!
We had started well also, CL with Arancini Balls stuffed with Toonsbridge Scamorza & Beef Cheek, Tomato & Pepper Salsa. We met Toby from Toonsbridge at his stall in Midleton the following Saturday and picked up some more of his fabulous produce (including fresh pasta and a Garlic Scape & Parsley Pesto).
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| Artichoke & Beetroot starter |
My starter at Jacques was the marvellous Artichoke, Lemon, Tahini, Roast Beetroot, Mushroom stuffed Aubergines, Crispy Spiced Chickpeas, a stunning assemblage of top-notch produce, more or less the theme for what would follow for the rest of the meal.
Top-class food and an efficient and friendly crew taking care of us!
^Schnitzel at Harrow, Killarney. The full description is Pork Schnitzel, Celeriac Purée, Herb and Parmesan Dressing, and Celeriac Slaw with Jus. A hearty flavoursome dish to watch out for if you visit.
^^Schnitzel at Pantry & Corkscrew Westport: Herb Crusted Andarl Farm Free Range Pork Schnitzel, Pancetta & Parmesan Cream, Potato, Fennel and Butternut Hash. Crispy and tasty, full of flavour and texture and the potato and sauce enhanced the whole dish. A big thumbs up for this one.
Rosti. Medjool. Boozey Tiramisu. Jack McCarthy Blackpudding
All on the menu at Jacques where local gets an international twist.
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Rosti featured on my lunch plate at the welcoming Jacques Restaurant in the centre of Cork City last week. I think the first time I came across the Swiss speciality was in Zurich in 2007, during a dinner at the Movenpic Airport Hotel.
The hotel meal was Rosti and veal in a mushroom sauce and it was very enjoyable. That Rosti came flat from the pan and covered half the plate. But the Jacques version was in a high-sided wedge shape. And it was excellent as was everything else during our pleasant interlude.
It was lunchtime and in some ways, the Cork Rosti had aspects of a brunch dish based solidly, of course, on local produce. The Potato Rosti came with soft-boiled eggs, hollandaise, slaw and a choice of Jacques Ham, Portobello Mushroom or Jack McCarthy’s Black Pudding (13.90). I never turn down a chance to eat McCarthy’s and that was my pick and the ensemble was a wondered mix of textures and flavours, everything perfect, including that finely chopped slaw.
It was well cooked, well presented and brought to the table at just the perfect temperature as was the case with our other mains, the eye-catching Smoked Mackerel Salad, roast beetroot, pickled egg, horseradish, watercress and crisp bread (14.90). Another combination to get the taste buds excited, with that pickled egg a tasty feature.
The Jacques Lunch menu allows the punter to construct his or her meal in a number of ways. For instance, you can pick from the selection of Nibbles: Marinated Olives, Salted Almonds, or a Selection of dips, crusty bread and sourdough crackers.
You could follow that up with your choice of small plate: Soup, Roast Beetroot and Beetroot Borani with Cashel Blue crumb etc; Arancini (West Cork Crab, Salsa verde) and a few more.
Perhaps you’d like to share a board. They have a Meat and Cheese Board (includes Ham Hock Terrine and Drunken Figs) or go for the Cheese Board (Coolea, Durrus, Cashel and more Drunken Figs!).
Our two dishes came from the Big Plates. And there were quite a few others to pick from including a tempting Chicken, Leek and Mushroom pie; Steamed Mussels; Fresh Fish ’n Chips; and a Root Vegetable Makhani with rice Pilaf. A little list of sides also available from which we picked the Twice Cooked Chips to share.
Sometime last year, we missed out on the legendary Boozey Tiramisu here. It wasn’t going to happen on this occasion. And we shared one (7.50). I don’t know what booze they use but the moist dessert was made with generous hands and every bit as good as anticipated!
We’ve had some versions of the dates and blood orange dessert here too over the years and one of those was also ordered, also 7.50. The Blood Oranges, Medjool Dates stuffed with Mascarpone, with Pomegranate and flaked Almonds was another winner. The tangy citrus of the oranges goes so well with the soft flesh and mildly rich and pleasing flavours of the Medjool.
Also available were Chocolate and Salted Caramel Tart and Caramelised Apples, Vanilla Ice Cream and Hazelnut Praline. Next time!
And Jacques is a great place to chat and hear what is going on around town. Culinary Chairs! Who is on the move from one restaurant/café to another? From Lancaster Quay to MacCurtain Street. From that street to Bridge Street. And from Bridge Street to MacCurtain Street. And there’s someone on the move too from Oliver Plunkett Street to a happy retirement! Some of those moves are already made of course.
To stay up to date with Jacques (menus, opening times and more), click their Facebook posts here.
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| Union Quay - ready for outside dining! |
Jacques and the outdoor city. Dining out on the banks of the Lee.
A delicious meal in Jacques last Thursday, was book-ended by a two-part walk around part of the city as Corkonians packed the many outdoor dining spaces that have sprung up in recent weeks.
Started by Thompsons in MacCurtain Street, then Isaacs. Greenes and Cask have their own “outdoor space” and that too was busy. The Metropole had a shaded, almost hidden, line of tables. The Shelbourne Bar has always had a lively outdoor area and that is now slightly enlarged. And so it continues on both sides of the street, most notably Son of a Bun. No such joy though for Bridge Street, with Da Mirco and others frustrated and hoping for an early resumption of indoor dining.
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| Sliced gets the evening sun on Parnell Place |
The Patrick Street space outside Le Chateau was packed. And then came the tight squeeze of Carey’s Lane where you had to watch your step while willingly giving the servers the right of way as they sought the clear path between the many tables from many restaurants and cafes. Harmony reigned in the tight spaces, no dissonant exchanges, just the soft jovial buzz of young and old enjoying the outdoors city.
Rory Gallagher Square was similarly abuzz with diners and drinkers and busy too was very narrow French Church Street though the likes of Cafe Mexicana is temporarily shuttered.
Leaving aside, for this time, the busy Cornmarket Street, Washington Street, Popes Quay, so many other side streets and squares, we headed across Patrick Street to Princes Street which the whole world knows by now is the epicentre of outdoor dining in the city, certainly the best-covered of the streets. Now we were heading for Jacques on Oliver Plunkett Street and noticed quite a few pubs had seats out and those seats full.
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| Crab. And Bushbys |
Had a quick look at Pembroke Street and that was busy too. Our destination was Phoenix Street and the original front entrance of Jacques and here we got a big and warm welcome from co-owners and co-founders Eithne and sister Jacque. Soon we were seated and studying the menu. You may also enter from the Oliver Plunkett Street door where Jacques have more outside tables.
And then a little coincidence. Hours earlier, Facebook showed me a memory from the same date (15th July) in 2017, of a crab and strawberry starter at Jacques. And yes, Crab and Strawberry featured again. The details: Fresh Castletownbere Crab Salad, Mixed Leaves, Bushby Strawberries and Mint (14.90). Couldn’t resist going for this rather substantial starter again and was well satisfied with a super combination of tastes, textures and flavours. Lots of nibbles and small plates here, including Rossmore Oysters.
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| More Bushbys! |
Lobster featured on the mains. Tempted by that for sure but since we had enjoyed it (as take-out) recently and also because I had been on a run of fish dishes, I decided to go with the lamb. I liked the description: Rump of Lamb Greek style (pink) in a crust of small seeds, green beans, tomato, olives, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, and Crispy potatoes (28.00). I’ve been very happy indeed with some of my recent fish dishes and glad to report that the Jacques lamb was in that top class bracket as well, indeed one of the best lamb dishes I’ve come across in a long time. Very Highly Recommended.
I’ve also been delighted with recent desserts and that trend continued too at Jacques. Well, there’s never any hesitation if you read Bushbys on the menu: Bushby Strawberries, Vanilla ice-cream and honeycomb (7.50). Superb. Those Bushbys are the best and brought a lovely meal in the urban outdoors to a sweet conclusion!
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| The outdoor "dining room" of Princes Street |
As it happened, our Jacques table was directly opposite the space between Crane Lane and Arthur Mayne and I got a close up of that well-weathered timber door and the old brick steps that lead into that space (an long-standing sheltered, outdoor alley that has long been used for dining and drinking). That doorway by the way is now used as exit only and, in fairness, every customer that I saw approach read the notice and went back to enter via the Pembroke Street door of Arthur Maynes. Both places are under the Cork Heritage pubs umbrella and also had tables on Phoenix Street.
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| The sturdy door and brickwork at Crane Lane/Arthur Maynes |
The sun was still strong as we two happy customers left our Jacques table and headed for a stroll and a look at Oliver Plunkett Street diners, lots of them, especially at the junction of the street with Caroline Street, many people enjoying the offerings of Jacques, the Oliver Plunkett itself, Cafe 115 and the Old Oak. And then another smaller concentration of diners outside the doors of Goldie, Elbow Lane and their mothership Market Lane. And a glance up Maylor Street revealed even more outdoor tables and diners!
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| Keep on keeping on. Hands mural at Harley's Street |
We crossed the Mary Elmes bridge (lots of plastic bottles on the deck by the seating - didn’t spot any bin) to Patrick’s Quay. I had heard about the Harley’s Street market but didn’t expect it to be open in the evening. But open it was and busy too as customers lined up for smaller bites plus coffees from the likes of Taco Rebel, Bevs and Brews, and BBQ pop-up Bird Song and others.
Our stroll around was now coming to an end as we crossed MacCurtain Street and headed for the hills!
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| Leeside |
Jacques Add To Variety Of Eat At Home Options
Their Castletownbere Lobster’s A Tasty Winner
Last week, when we checked out the list, lobster was back and we were hooked. Also available were Moroccan Lamb Shanks and Organic Spatchcocked Spiced Chicken and the dessert in all cases was the very tempting Boozy Tiramisu (with lots of 5 Farms Liquor included!). Not alone do they cater for different tastes, they also cater for different budgets with prices (for 2 courses for 2 people) usually ranging from forty to fifty euro.
No heating at all with the starter, the Jacques Paté with Sourdough Crisp Breads and Rhubarb Chutney. Enough for two people, it said! Enough for a large family, I reckon. But it wasn’t just the quantity, the quality was top-drawer.
They also have quite a selection of wine to pair with the various dishes and the Mara Martin Godello came with our box. The traditional food match is seafood, especially shellfish specialities like scallops, mussels, clams, lobster, crab and oysters. And it was spot-on, a marvellous match for the lobster.
The main event, after 20 minutes in the oven, was now on the plate. It came with a lemon and herb butter and a parmesan crust and was served with their Potato Rosti and green leaf salad dressed with a French dressing. Silence descended for quite a spell, just the odd whine from the dog who waited, in vain (we did make it up to him later), for a morsel of the lobster. A superb highlight of a lovely meal.
Bet you’d like to try Jacques this coming weekend. Then do keep an eye on their social media (Instagram and Facebook mostly, I think). The menu is up every Monday. Check it out, make your choice and ring 0214277387 with your order on Monday or Tuesday. Heat At Home collections are very Friday and Saturday. |
| On arrival! |
Dining NOW Guide. This Week's Choices In Cork
(Contact me before 1.00pm Wed with a sentence or two, a pic and a link to menu, plan to update regularly) w/e 4/4/2021 Update #2
Click and Collect. At Home. Takeout. Takeaway.
The Afternoon Tea for two people is €50 and the hotel will require 24 hours’ notice to book. Delivery within 15km is also available for an additional €10. To order you can call (021) 4643700
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That Homemade Cannelloni filled with slow cooked O'Mahonys lamb ragu, ricotta and pecorino cheese looks tempting!
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O'Mahony's Fly Stars & Stripes
Tom Durcan Will Bring It Home to You
Durcan’s Burger and wings artisan - Taste of #cork at home kit The finest local produce using Hasset’s bakery and Finders Inn dressing. Hand prepared on morning of collection by my son Harry. Order online and have it delivered to your door #nationwide #shoplocal @EnglishMarket More details at https://twitter.com/TomDurcanMeats
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Celtic Ross Hotel
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Farmgate Ready to Feed the Family this Easter
We have spent the last few weeks thinking about the Easter break, so we can have it all organised for you with just one click of a button.
How about the perfect family roast? Delicious slow-cooked lamb (and more!) for a stress-free day and the opportunity to really enjoy quality time your loved ones. Let’s face it, who amongst us cannot claim to be sick of constantly cooking for hungry hounds?
Easter Sunday Feast - €70 for 2 / €120 for 4
Bottle or Red or White wine
Market Fish Plate, Farmgate Brown Soda Bread
Slow Braised Shoulder of Lamb, Ardrahan Cheese & Lamb Croquettes, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Buttered Spring Greens
Strawberry & Framboise Trifle
There's also an Easter Family Feast. See all the menus and details here
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With Easter upon us, we have more yummy treats planned for the weekend. The following menu is available from Friday to Sunday:
You may order from 12pm tomorrow (Monday) via the following link: The Glass Curtain At Home
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This weekend'smenu now live, get your orders in for Easter Sunday 
https://ferrit-lee.clickandcollection.com
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