The Quart of Ale± #1. A magic Imperial Stout + Radler. Red. Sour.

A Quart of Ale± #1. A magic Imperial Stout + Radler. Red. Sour. 

Today sees the beginning of a new series on beer. I'll be doing the best I can to cover a broad range but, if I'm missing out on your brewery, just let me know. While the focus will be mainly on Irish craft beers (and ciders), I'll also dip into the best of imports. Today's selection roams over the range, from Lough Gill's stunning Imperial Stout to the fun summer-time Radler by Blacks. Yellow Belly make excellent sours while the Red Ale comes from Wicklow's Wolf brewery.

Lough Gill Dark Majik Imperial Oatmeal Coffee Cream Stout 11.0%, 440ml can, Bradley’s

Well, well, well. This is amazing, especially on the palate. Smooth and packed with chocolate and coffee flavours along with fruit and spice. And it just goes on and on, the finalé every bit as delicious as the initial encounter. It’s black, with an ephemeral coffee coloured head. Coffee in the rich aromas  also but quite a touch of herb and spice also. 

Can this is the dark Irish beer your mother didn’t tell you about? Dark Majik is an Irish beer that could give the high abv Belgians a run for their money. And it is craft brewed in their independent brewery in Sligo. 

Unlike the Belgians, Lough Gill do not suggest food pairings. I was thinking Sticky Toffee Pudding but none on hand when you need it! Instead, I raided the cupboard and found exactly what I was looking for, unsulphured dried apricots that I got from West Cork Olives via Neighbourfood, and they paired very well indeed.

They say: A true beer for royalty. Big bold chocolate coffee aromas, with a multitude of fruit and spices. A bold yet silky smooth texture with flavours ranging from chocolate and coffee to raisins and anise. With a hearty 11% abv this beer is sure to keep you warm from top to toe. 

It does all that but think it may be wasted on royalty. Pour it for the people. And for yourself, of course!

You’ll see the term Imperial used on most high alcohol beers, as is the case here. Imperial stouts, according to Craft Beer for the People, “have a typically high success rate when aged; their flavours become more relaxed and verge into sweeter milk chocolate, dried figs or other fruit, or a deeply roasted coffee.” They could well be talking about this one by James Ward and his Lough Gill team. 

Yellow Belly Castaway Passionfruit Sour 4.2%, 440ml can, Bradley’s

Yellow Belly like their sours, so be prepared!

Cloudy light amber is the colour. Not so much fruit in the aromas; yeast seems to be the main element. Once it reaches the palate though, the face puckers as promised and the Belgian malts, aided by the passionfruit sweetness, begin to calm it all down a bit. Just a little bit! This is after all a sour, and a pretty good one at that. Quite a thirst-quencher!

They say: The perfect sour. Our house Berliner Weisse recipe (soured with our, continuously evolving, barrel stored lactobacillus culture) conditioned on a small tropical islands worth of passionfruit. Expect a lovely fruity aroma, more fruit on the tongue, and even more fruit on the finish all rounded with a gentle acidity from the souring process. Brewed with only the finest Belgian malts and our House Lactobacillus Culture under the careful watch of our Head Brewer, Declan Nixon.

It is a Seasonal Beer – mostly found during the Summer months, but from time to time as a limited release. It is unfiltered and not pasteurised.

So, what is a sour? It is perhaps the style of beer most likely to put someone off with a single sip. But, according to Craft Beer for the People, “they are hugely rewarding for those who can get past the initial shock.” Think of lemons, sauerkraut, pickles and Citrus Pressé (the French non-alcoholic thirst quencher) as that essential first step. “Once you gain a taste for them (sours)…. there’s no going back!”

All the artwork you see across our Tap Badges and Cans features our fictional hero ‘YellowBelly’. He’s the “Dr. Who” of Beer; travelling through time and space to find new recipes, discover ingredients and to fight the bad guys trying to destroy good beer. Our Creative Director, Paul Reck, creates all the artwork and is the mastermind behind our ‘YellowBelly Tales’ Comic Book Series, which can read for free on the site.

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Black’s Brewery Ready Up! Radler 3.8%, 440 can, Bradley’s 

So many of you will want to know what is a Radler? It is German for “cyclist") and the style has a long history in German-speaking regions. It commonly consists of a 50:50 mixture of beer and sparkling lemonade. Here the lemonade is replaced by pink grapefruit soda; I’m not too sure about the 50:50 though!

Radler is quite similar to our shandy. Its origin in Germany goes back about 100 years when a long bicycle trail from Munich ended up at a tavern in the woods. On one exceptionally busy day, the landlord was afraid he wouldn’t have enough beer so he “stretched” his stock by blending it with lemon soda and found he had a hit on his hands!

Black’s Radler is bright amber, lots of bubbles rising up to the rapidly thinning white head. The grapefruit introduces itself in the aromas.  The beer is light and crisp on the palate, and also reminds me of the many juicy sweets (Quenchers? Opal Fruits?) I enjoyed years ago. Quite a lip-smacking dry finish from this handy summer-time thirst quencher.

They say: Just in time for summer, this traditional German style is a refreshing blend of lager and pink grapefruit soda. Crisp, light and fruity with a lower abv for those long summer days at home.

Wicklow Wolf “Wildfire” Hoppy Red Ale 4.6%,  440ml can, O'Briens Wine

Dark amber’s the colour here, with an off white head doesn’t last too long. Malty and coffee in the aromas. More malty in the mouth, with the “tasty” hop blend of Sorachi and Sabro also getting in their say, a rather mild one to be honest.

Touted as a modern red ale, I’m quite pleased with it and would love to to try it in a direct joust with other reds like Roaring Ruby (from West Cork Brewing), Kinnegar’s Devil’s Backbone, Copper Coast (from Dungarvan Brewing), White Gypsy’s Ruby Red, Sunburnt Irish (8 Degrees), Costello’s Red Ale and more (including the newish Velvet Red by the Cotton Ball). Could be a long session. And I’d need food as well!

Kinnegar's Winning Team. A Squad for all Saisons.

Kinnegar's Winning Team. 
A Squad for all Saisons.

Libby and yours truly in K2

Hard work. Attention to detail. That’s what we saw when we took up an invitation from Libby and Rachel to visit the Kinnegar Brewery in Letterkenny. Libby was on hand to show us around and introduced us to Rick and some of the brewers. 

Hard work? You have to be willing to put your shoulder to the wheel here, well not exactly the wheel but those bags of malt come in 25 kgs size and quite a few need to be regularly hefted to where they’re needed!

Attention to detail? Success in many fields is built on this and Kinnegar is no different. Take a look at a notice of work for one area on the day: clean general; arrange utility room; order boiler diaphragms (steam jacket); hops racking. David is a master of detail. He joined the brewery early on as a JobBridge intern. A quick trainer, he is now of four brewers here and was working on K1 as we arrived.

Better explain. K1 is the small brewery from their farmhouse days in nearby Rathmullan and the name Kinnegar comes from the nearby beach of that name. We are in K2, huge by comparison, a magnificent illustration of how far this enterprising brewery has come in a six year span.

K1

K1 (10 hectalitres) has been brought here and given its own space in Letterkenny. Dwarfed by K2 (35hls), it will have a special place and will be used to try out innovative beers for many years to come, thanks in large measure to David who was close to completing the re-assembly here. Indeed K1 looks brand new. They will also bring in and use their first brewery, a 0.5hl unit, now known as K0.

Links with Rathmullan are still strong thanks mainly to Libby’s mother Margaret, 80 years of age and still working on the brewery books, happy to do so in the quiet of the countryside.

With the opening of the new state-of-the-art facility K2, the clinking of bottles coming off the line no longer mingles with the bleating of sheep from the surrounding fields. Yet “the farmhouse ethos at the core of what we do however remains the same”.

While I expected to see a spanking new brewery, my jaw dropped on entering the unit. It is huge, at least to my eyes, and of course, it was a huge investment leap for Libby, Rick and Rachel when they ordered the gear from Slovenia. But so far so good. So very good.

Rachel in the brewhouse

I reckon I was one of the first to sing the praises of Kinnegar beer as I came across them in various places around Downings in June 2013. One of the places was the Cove in Port na Blagh where I worked my way through the ales, the Limeburner Pale Ale, the Scraggy Bay India Pale Ale and the Devil’s Backbone Amber Ale. Thought all three were excellent.  My number one went to the IPA while CL picked the Limeburner, the same two beers that we enjoyed this time around.

We had no problem finding them this time, in bars, in cafés such as Buffers, in restaurants like Grape and Grain, in the splendid country house Castle Grove and in the Rosapenna Hotel. Enjoyed Scraggy Bay India Pale Ale (me) and Limeburner Pale Ale (CL) in particular. These two, along with Devil’s Backbone (Amber Ale), Rustbucket Rye Ale, Yannaroddy Porter, and Crossroads American Style IPA, form their core range.

And they do specials. Lots of them! Hard to keep up. Just a few to note that I’ve liked: the Merry Tiller Dry-hopped Saison, Bucket & Spade Session Rye IPA and the Black Bucket Black Rye IPA. 

 Black Bucket Black Rye IPA, Gold Medal at 2018 Brussels Beer Challenge

Balance is a feature of Kinnegar beers and that Black Rye IPA is a great illustration, hoppy, citrus flavours, quite intense (it is the big brother of the original Black Bucket!), quite superb.

Hadn’t come across the Kumpelnest Pilsner (5%) until this trip. Wasn’t expecting too much but reckon me and this one could be the best of buddies. Nothing dominant or over the top about it but with its persistent and pleasantly moderate aromas making an excellent first impression, we were on the right hop from the off. And those first fruity flavours are also persistent as my new buddy shows staying power. Good finish too. Buddy sure won’t let you down as you can see from the illustration on the can, he has lots of friends!

And speaking of friends, how did Kinnegar come together? Libby had her own graphic design company (and those skills would come in handy) but it was Rick who had an interest in craft brewing and spotted the new wave coming. Rachel was a pro in the world of horse; there was a bit of a downturn in that line and she was looking for something with a scientific angle as that was her long time interest and, having worked with horses, she had no problems with taking her turn at the physical side either. The timing was so right for them and Kinnegar was the vehicle to take them (and their now ten permanent staff) upwards and onwards.

This canning line will stretch you mentally!

Nowadays, everyone contributes to the ongoing development though Rick is the leader on the beer recipe side. By the way, they don’t filter or pasteurise, and let their industrious little friends, the yeast, carbonate the beer naturally during fermentation.

Libby told us that Kinnegar are that bit different to other breweries in that they built their business on bottles and cans rather than draught (they do draught of course). Their bottling line is a Meheen, “one of the two busiest in Europe” while their own canning line is a Wild Goose. 

Bet you didn’t know this. Working these two lines requires different responses from the operator. Libby explained that the bottling line is more physically demanding while the canning operation taxes the mental side more! Different strokes for different folks or vice versa. Just goes to show the value of teamwork and Kinnegar have quite a squad in place in Letterkenny.

Also on this trip: Mary T. From Mallow to Donegal's Castle Grove
Something fishy going on in Donegal
Superb Day Out at Oakfield Park & Buffers Bistro
Malin Head, Fanad and Rosguill Peninsulas
Downings. A Great Base for Donegal Visit