Sicilian Duo by Donnafugata Shine in the Glass!

Sicilian Duo by Donnafugata Shine in the Glass!

Donnafugata `Sherazade` Nero d’Avola Sicilia (DOC) 2019, 13% 

RRP €23.99 64 Wine; Alain and Christine Wine and Card Shop; Avoca Handweavers Shops; Cashel Wine Cellar; Drink Store; Ely Wine Store; Fallon & Byrne; The Hen and Hog, Ashford Co. Wicklow; Jus de Vine; Mannings Emporium; McHughs Off Licence - Kilbarrack Rd; Red Island Wine Co; Searsons Wine Merchants; The Corkscrew; Thomas Woodberry’s; Whelehans Wines; wineonline.ie

A brilliant ruby is the colour of this Sherazade, produced from the Nero D’Avola grape, the red grape of Sicily. Aromas are fresh and fruity. And it is much the same combination on the palate. Much lighter than you’d expect and you can see why it is often recommended as an aperitif (slightly chilled). It tends more towards Pinot Noir and Gamay rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. Soft, with plum and cherry and smooth tannins and spicy fruit, this is a beauty, a fragrant and pleasant wine with outstanding freshness. Very Highly Recommended

The 2019 vintage began with a mild winter and a wet spring. The summer months were drier, the grapes were healthy and ripened well. Yields were lower than in the previous two years. Those excellent grapes promised much by way of aromatics and balance and that promise was delivered in the winery. 

Donnafugata suggest matching it with fish soup, pizza or classic tomato spaghetti. Luckily we had a take-out from the superb Osteria Da Mirco in Cork city and the Sherazade did very well indeed with the Parmigiana di melanzane, Cannelloni di Magro and Polpette al Sugo (with Tagliatelle) and we're able to confirm the producer’s suggestions! It was served, slightly chilled, at around 15 degrees.

Sherazade (or Scheherazade) is a major female character and the storyteller in the Oriental collection of tales known as the One Thousand and Nights.

Donnafugata `Sur Sur` Grillo Siclia (DOC) 2020, 13%, 

RRP €23.99 Alain and Christine Wine and Card Shop; Blackrock Cellar; Mannings Emporium; Martins Off Licence; Searsons Wine Merchants; The Corkscrew; wineonline.ie

This Grillo wine, from an ancient white grape variety of Sicily, has a very light straw colour. Its aromatics are quite intense, fresh and fruity, floral and herbal notes as well. And you get much the same combination on the light and lively palate with peach (especially) and melon to the fore. 

The producers recommend serving at 9-11 degrees and pairing with seafood appetisers, vegetarian first courses, and roasted fish. I got a lovely surprise with this one as it is perhaps the best Grillo that I’ve come across and Very Highly Recommended

Importers Liberty tell us the Rallo family has made wine in Marsala since 1851 in their ancient cellars tunnelled beneath the city. “They were one of the first families to begin making high-quality table wine when sales of traditional Marsala started to decline, launching the Donnafugata label in 1983 and championing the potential of the region’s native varieties.”

Grillo is an ancient autochthonous Sicilian grape variety, but it is also a cute little animal (the cricket) that brings good luck. The name sur sur, that means cricket, comes from the classical Arabic language which was once also spoken in Sicily. The voice of spring, with its scents and colors, is depicted on the label. It shows Gabriella (founder of Donnafugata, with her husband Giacomo) as a girl in flight, running barefoot through the flowers and fresh grass, following the singing of crickets that sounds sweet to her ears, like a thousand “SurSur… “

According to Wine-Searcher.com, Grillo has become a viable contender for the quintessential Italian table white: light, easy-drinking and often associated with very good value and competes well with better known Italian white grapes. 

An Easy-drinking Double From Two Of Sicily’s Most Popular Grapes

An Easy-drinking Double From Two Of Sicily’s Most Popular Grapes

Did you know that the the vineyard area of Sicily is among the largest in Italy? It's about 107,000 hectares, about twice the size of a region like Emilia-Romagna or Tuscany. Nero D'Avola is the most popular red grape here while Grillo is a well known white grape.

Zabu Nero D’Avola Sicily (DOC) 2018, 13%, €14.99

Baggot Street Wines, JJ O’Driscolls,  Martins, Drinkstore, Cinnamon Cottage, Power & Co, Red Island and www.wineolnline.ie

The Nero d’Avola grape, sometimes compared to Shiraz, is the most important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily and is called after a town on the island. Importers Liberty Wines tell us the fruit for this wine is grown by Lake Arancio, in Sambuca di Sicilia. The crystal clear water of the lake creates an ideal microclimate for this eminently drinkable red.

A beautiful mid ruby colour. Attractive aromas also, fruity, floral, a hint of herb. Juicy cherries in a warm body, soft tannins contribute to its drinkability, and that juicy plummy fruit takes you through the persistent finish. Aged in stainless steel tanks, the wine is well balanced, uncomplicated maybe, but still an excellent companion for first courses, grilled and roasted meat, good with medium-aged cheeses, also as an aperitif. 

Serving temperature recommended is 16-18 degrees. Not too sure I’ve come across as light an Nero D’Avola as this. Highly Recommended.

Zabu Grillo Sicily (DOC) 2018, 12%, €15.99

Jus De Vine, Cinnamon Cottage, JJ O’Driscolls  and www.wineolnline.ie

Grillo is a Sicilian white grape variety most famous for its role in the island's fortified Marsala wines. Despite Marsala's decline in popularity, Grillo is still widely planted on the island.

Light to mid-straw, with tints of gold. Fresh on the nose, peach and citrus notes. Fruit-driven flavours (peach and citrus again)  on the palate, a refreshing wine with a long dry finish.  A nice light fresh and uncomplicated white wine. Recommended.

Suggested pairings:fish dishes (crab), fresh cheese, light risotto, couscous and fish soup. Great with smoked fish. Serving temperature: 10-12°C.

From the Islands. Vermentino from Sardinia And a Grillo from Sicily

From the Islands

Vermentino from Sardinia

And a Grillo from Sicily

According to Vino Italiano, “the deepest expression of the grape is found among the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG wines” and we've got a beauty for you below.

Over the centuries, and up to quite recently, Sardinia (just like Italy in general) was going for quantity over quality in wine. For example Vino Italia says that in 1974, the island’s Trexenta Co-op made about 100,000 hectolitres from more than two thousand acres. By the early years of this century, they were producing 15,000 to 20,000 hectolitres from 700 acres approx.

No wonder then that The Modern History of Italian Wine, a book I keep referring to in this current series, hail Cantina Gallura in the zone of the same name, under director Dino Addis, as one of the most influential Italian wine-makers of the 1990s. The large co-operative was persuaded to reduce yield from 150 to 90 quintals. There were other changes, most noticeably “an immediate loss of income”.

But, “the courage to change” led to “a winning decision” and in 1996, they obtained the DOCG, “the first and only one in Sardinia”. 

Cantina Sociale Gallura Vermentino di Gallura Superiore (DOCG) Gemellae, 2013, 12%, €17.85 Le Caveau

Colour here is a light straw. There are modest white fruit aromas, floral notes too. Smooth, dry and fruity on the palate, a great depth of flavour (apple and melon) and concentration along with a long citrus-y finish. Good acidity too and they recommend trying it with fish dishes, vegetable soups, salads, and white meats. I found it excellent as an aperitif. Don't over-chill this gem, serve at 10-12 degrees and you'll have a very agreeable winner. Very Highly Recommended.

Cusumano Shamaris Grillo Sicilia (DOC) 2015, 13%, €18.95 (€14.95 on sale) O’Brien’s

A surprisingly excellent wine of no little heft, helped by four months on fine lees, from a modest grape, Grillo, that is supposed to be on the wane on the island of Sicily. US wine critic James Suckling regularly gives Shamaris good marks, including 91 points for this vintage.

It has a mid gold colour, bright. There are inviting white fruit aromas, blossom notes too. Fresh and lively fruit (including melon), good body, lovely balance, acidity of course and a decent finish. Highly Recommended.

According to The Modern History of Italian Wine (my current “bible” on the subject), Cusumano (founded in 2001) are one of the drivers of Italian wine in this century and “an extraordinary commercial success”. “There’s a piece of the land..in each of our labels”.  Their other varietals (which include Nero D’Avola) may well be worth watching out for.

See also (from my current Italian mini-series):

Fontanafredda. Important Player in Italian Wine
Two Amazing Whites from Italy.

Wines of Italy's Marche

In the Heart of Chianti

Pighin's "Grave wines are bargains". Good too!

Sweet Favourite of the Romans. Still Going Strong.
Montepulciano and Montepulciano confused?
Pinot Grigio, one of the most popular grapes.

Wines from the Alps

Velenosi from the Marche