Happy on The Hill. Badass Brunch at O’Mahony’s

Happy on The Hill. Badass Brunch at O’Mahony’s

Planet Dessert

Brunch in O’Mahony’s of Watergrasshill is that bit different. Certainly you may have your eggs and bacon and maple syrup and they do a French Toast. But the dishes here, based on local and seasonal, have their own outstanding character as we soon found out.

I suppose what really stands out when you scan the menu is the amount of local producers that are mentioned. That French toast is on Arbutus Bread and the bacon is from Fitzgerald's. 

Then, there’s Ardsallagh goats cheese, Adam’s eggs, Skeaghanore duck, Knockalara cheese, Glenbrook Farm pork, Goatsbridge trout caviar and also the marvellous Yum Gelato. On the drinks side (including cocktails) you’ll find Blackwater Distillery, Valentia Island Vermouth, Stonewell, 9 White Deer, Killahora and Blacks of Kinsale among others.

Rosti with duck, bacon and eggs

Our small group were soon sorted and the order went in. I was tempted by one of the specials: Rossmore Oysters, Spinach and Shallot and Vermouth Sauce but in the end went for the House Potato Rosti, Poached Adams Eggs hollandaise, Skeaghanore confit duck leg, and Fitzgerald’s streaky bacon. 

Quite a precarious stack but a lovely meal, everything cooked to perfection, full of gorgeous flavours and with a lovely crunchy texture in the rosti and bacon, soft in the eggs and the shredded duck was the usual high quality you expect from its West Cork producers. Another of our party also enjoyed this one.

Turbot and scallop special

CL meantime (who had her eye on the rosti initially), settled for the the other special: Turbot, scallops on toast with Langoustine sauce. “Settled for” is probably the wrong phrase as this drew envious glances as it was served and lived up to its promise. Another top notch dish from O’Mahony’s kitchen. Our fourth member enjoyed his Fitzgerald’s striploin steak, Adam eggs, chips and hollandaise, so a very happy quartet indeed.

And the finish was also superb, harmonious even as all four of us picked the Spiced crème brûlée tart, strawberry and cream Yum Gelato. That particular Gelato is perhaps my favourite of the extensive flavours from Yum Gelato and that tart was indeed well spiced (I think there was a decent drop of rum in there). Full marks too by the way for the coffees.

Steak, eggs, chips

They do evening meals there on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings from 5.30 and I got a copy of that menu. Much more extensive than lunch or brunch and every bit as tempting. 

Victor, who does front of house with Máire, told us that Chef Phelan is very strong on Italian and his Knockalara agnolotti, with Raw Lough Honey and Hazelnuts, has been known to stop the conversation when delivered to the table. So there’s a tip for you!

Lunch is served between noon and 3.00pm Thursday to Saturday. The brunch window on Sunday is 10.30 to 2.30. Bookings at 086 8316879 or omahonysofwgh@gmail.com.

Small Plates and Big Smiles in O’Mahony’s Watergrasshill

 Small Plates and Big Smiles in O’Mahony’s Watergrasshill

You’ll get well fed at O’Mahony’s Watergrasshill. This welcoming country bar, serves appetising small plates of the best of local, seasonal and artisan food. It is well situated, on the borders of the recently expanded city, East Cork and North Cork, just ten minutes from the tunnel and literally minutes off the M8.

And you’ll get a warm welcome from Máire, Victor and their friendly staff, and those small plates are executed by newly installed chef Barry Phelan. O’Mahonys send their best wishes to previous chef John Deasy who is opening his own restaurant in Clonmel.

And the tall tales? Well, there’s been a series of them, called The Gab. It happens here monthly and February’s featured Rude Jude and she was billed as “naughty or nice, she's nearly always mischievous”.

They also have a “Corpse Reviver” here. No kidding. You can avail of that on Sunday (10.30am-3.00pm) if you call in for the very popular Brunch. It is one of their cocktails and features Blackwater Gin, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc, Lemon and Absinthe Rinse. Worth a try, I’d say.

February was quite a month as O’Mahony's and other hospitality venues continued the road back to normal. And then something happened that wasn’t normal! Two government ministers called for lunch. Another tall tale? No. The two were Leo and Paschal and O’Mahony’s have the photo to prove it!

And it was still February when the two of us called for lunch. No shiny suits but we did, of course, get that warm welcome and were soon sitting checking the menu. In the evenings, you get the full Small Plates menu and, at lunch you get a smaller selection. By the way, the menu changes from week to week and features mostly local and seasonal.

My eyes immediately went to the loin of Venison (€16), with parsnip, red cabbage and elderberry jus. What an amazing dish! The venison was tender and delicious, lifted to another level by its pairing with the red cabbage, while the smooth parsnip purée and the elderberry all did their bit to excite and satisfy the appetite.

The other dish, the lamb hot pot, was just the job for a cold February day. The lamb came from their butchers, Fitzgerald’s, and the pot also contained a large helping of root vegetables and was topped with sliced potato. 

They also had sides on offer. Hot cut chips with a roast garlic aioli, and roast Greenfield Farm root vegetables. But we let those go as we had our eyes on the desserts.

And we did finish with a couple of winners. Mine was a 70% Chocolate Tart with sea salt and ice cream. Soft and seductive and warm, it was one of the best of its kind and goes straight on to my dessert shortlist for 2022! CL choose a late addition of newly-picked poached rhubarb and ice cream, another lovely easy to dispatch dessert.

After that venison and that chocolate, I gave thanks. Someone up there loves me!

Once you read the menu, you notice that local producers are highly regarded and well supported here: oysters from Rossmore in East Cork, scallops and fish from Ballycotton, vegetables from Greenfield Farm in nearby Knockraha, and meat from Fiztgeralds of Fermoy. Same goes for the drinks with notably Blackwater Gin nominated as their sipping gin.

This is a fourth generation pub with Máire O’Mahony proudly carrying on the hospitality tradition of those that went before. They are very much involved and proud of their place. And if you want to pass the time, either before or after a meal here, then check out the “Nearby” page on their website.  Choices include a walk in the woods, a visit to the village art centre and its theatre or to an open farm.

O'Mahony's Looked To The East And Netted Dim Sum Hat Trick. This Week, They Focus On Mexico

 O'Mahony's Look To The East And Net Dim Sum Hat Trick. This Week, They Focus On Mexico*!

Mexico Menu at bottom

Okay, we've got quite a few Dim Sum aficionados in Ireland. And, on the other hand, quite a few who know very little about this element of Chinese cuisine that has spread worldwide. Dim sum itself refers to a style of Chinese cuisine, served in small bite-sized portions, including but not limited to dumplings.

Cantonese dim sum culture developed rapidly during the latter half of the nineteenth century in Guangzhou. It sum was based originally on local foods. As dim sum continued to develop, chefs introduced influences and traditions from other regions of China and this was the start of a wide variety of dim sum. Dim sum restaurants typically have a wide variety of dishes, usually totaling several dozen.There are over one thousand dim sum dishes in existence today.

And that 1000 plus would not include this Watergrasshill version from O'Mahony's, solidly based on top class local produce, including Carrigcleena free range chicken and duck, Fitzgerald’s pork belly, Ballyhoura mushrooms, Jack McCarthy’s and Hanley’s Black Pudding and more. I got mine at the weekend. It was their third offering and all sold out. This week, I'm told the focus will be on Mexico. Check their Facebook page for details (from today Tuesday) as I'd expect something of a rush. 

I'm always amazed with how Asian cuisine in general makes the very best of vegetables. And the team 
at O'Mahony's didn't let me down, serving up a Cashew Matsu Slaw and a Cucumber & sesame salad. One of the highlights of the meal.

Chicken, pork and mushroom, all wrapped up in delicious little parcels!

Jack McCarthy Black Pudding on the right with
Carrigcleena duck on left. Both delicious.

According to Wikipedia, Okonomiyaki is a Japanese savory pancake containing a variety of ingredients in a wheat-flour-based batter; it is an example of konamon. The name is derived from the word okonomi, meaning "how you like" or "what you like", and yaki meaning "cooked".

There were quite a few elements in the package, including Adam's Egg Fried Rice
and a terrific dipping sauce as well. Oh, I almost forgot the Miso Soup.

This week's menu - Rápida Rápido

O’Mahony's Winning Formula. Local and Seasonal. Small Plates. Big Flavours.

O’Mahony's Winning Formula. 

Local and Seasonal. Small Plates. Big Flavours

O’Mahony’s is making waves in Watergrasshill, even though it is in its early years of it reincarnation. The food offering started a couple of years back as local and seasonal, on small plates mostly, and that is still the formula, backed up by a very helpful, very well informed front of house, lots of chats, loads of smiles, a welcome on the mat and all the way through.

And there is also a huge welcome for local producers and suppliers. Their produce is carefully handled here, expertly cooked and delivered on those (not so) small plates!  It is the same with drinks. The craft beer selection includes Franciscan Well and 8 Degrees on draught, Blacks’ ales in bottle, also the Saor GF from 9 White Deer, and ciders by Stonewell and Longueville House. And don’t worry, mainstream beers are also available.

Stonewell zero

Back to the menu though. You may nibble away on marinated olives for a start. If you prefer something a bit bigger why not consider their boards: Antipasto, Cheese, or Charcuterie. We decided to share the Antipasto, a selection of dips (hummus, tapenade, goats cheese, etc, olives) with bread.

We had the car, so what would we drink? A quick answer was provided in the shape of their non-alcoholic board. It included a red wine, a white wine, even a sparkling one. The Seed-lip gin was available as were the apple based drinks (very nice too) from the local Future Orchards. Also some beers: Baltika, Heineken zero and Erdinger and a zero cider by Stonewell. The latter was my pick - it was my first time trying it. Stonewell always hit a high standard and this did the job very well indeed. CL meanwhile choose the Erdinger, probably the best of the three beers on offer. 

The increasing number of local and seasonal supporters will be delighted to see the small plates list - these are basically your main courses without all the sometimes superfluous extras. You’ll note names like Jack McCarthy, Kilbrack Farm, Gubbeen, Ballyhoura Mushrooms, Carrigcleena Duck, Leamlara Honey, Hegarty’s Cheese and Fitzgerald Butchers. By the way, O’Mahony’s is also the area base for NeighbourFood through which you may also get your hands on some of these lovely products.

Smoked lamb

The menu changes regularly. There were seven choices for us and it took us a while to make up our minds. I think we could have employed the Grand National formula: close the eyes and stick a pin in the list. But we did pick a couple and shared. That is one thing about these “small plates”; they are ideal for groups who order a bunch of them and then share.

I was tempted by the Rockpool: Kilbrack blue potato, gnocchi, foraged sea herbs and poached white soul, and that seemed to be a favourite of Victor (who owns and runs the pub along with Máire). In the end though, I went for the Carrigcleena duck pastilles, Leamlara Honeycomb, coriander yogurt. The duck came in three parcels, packed with flavoursome meat and that was enhanced by the yoghurt and a small square of the honeycomb.

CL also hit the jackpot with the Hot Smoked Fitzgerald’s lamb, braised red cabbage parsnip purée and game chips. The tender meat is served pink and is the main player in a hearty ensemble, every item in the mix playing a part. And we both thoroughly enjoyed the side of excellent hand-cut chips with a punchy pepper sauce.

Now we were looking at the short list of desserts. I was seriously considering the Treacle Tart with Yum Gelato vanilla before taking Victor’s tip - he freely admits to being biased! - which was the Cardamon, Lemon Curd Pannacotta, ginger Manuka honey, jelly and tuile.  Went down every well indeed.

Dessert

By the way, as I didn’t mention it earlier, they have a House drinks list here, all from neighbours. House Gin is Bertha’s Revenge (from Castlelyons) with Poachers Tonic and orange. The local juice, from Glanmire, is supplied by Future Orchards while the local cider comes from Mallow’s Longueville House. And 8 Degrees, up the road in Mitchelstown, are the producers of the House beer.

All the regular wines are available by the glass and you also have a rosé and Prosecco. On the night, the list was supplemented by a specials board that had no less than seven new wines which will soon have a place on the list. So, no shortage. And no shortage either of spirits where again, particularly in gins and whiskeys, they are strong on supporting Irish.

O'Mahony's of Watergrasshill is a family-run country pub and food venue just off the Cork-Dublin motorway (M8);  is only 10 minutes from the Dunkettle Interchange, near Cork City. The pub has been Máire's family for 200 years. Experienced Chef Jim Coleman recently joined the team.

House drinks, from a previous visit. Bertha's Revenge and Eight Degrees

O’Mahony’s 

Main Street

Watergrasshill

Co. Cork

OPENING HOURS

Café bar
11am – 5pm, Wed, Thur & Fri
1pm – 5pm, Sat

Bar kitchen
6pm – 9pm, Fri & Sat
12pm – 4pm-ish &  6pm–8pm, Sun

Bar

6pm – close, Fri – Sun

ENQUIRIES

+353 (0)86 831 6879 omahonysofwgh@gmail.com