An October Wander in Mayo and Galway

An October Wander in Mayo and Galway

Afternoon near Letterfrack

Dozio & Pears in TIA

So here I am in Mayo, in Louisburgh to be precise, enjoying a delicious Swiss-Irish cheese in a lovely friendly Portuguese-Irish cafe. The cheese is called Dozio ( pronounced dots-i-o) and the café is called TIA. It is the last Friday in October, it is dull and showery, but I’m nice and cozy and enjoying the grub and the  lunchtime buzz.

TIA tiles

TIA, according to Google, means aunt in Portuguese and there is a family feel about the place, lots of school kids in either with a parent (maybe an auntie) or without and a fair bit of banter between the customers and the staff. And the food is local as exemplified by the board that says the lamb chops are PJ’s. They appear on the list of more substantial meals (more like your dinner).

We study the other board and order a couple of delicious salads. There is a Sourdough toast, honey roasted ham, Barr Rua cheese (also from Dozio), relish, salad and TIA crips. The potato, chorizo, kale and fried egg combination looks attractive, well priced at €8.50. All the dishes seem well-priced and all the food is sourced locally.

Achill Island

This section also details a Chicken, Mozzarella and Ciabatta salad; another salad of Sausage rasher, fried egg with Blaa; and a Vegetarian Burger with Sautéed potatoes, salads and pickles.

I go for the Warm Roast Pear Salad, Dozio Cheese and excellent homemade brown bread (12.00). Danilo Dozio and Helen Grady are making cheese in Mayo, using ancient recipes from Canton Ticino in the South of Switzerland. They make a few different varieties including the soft Zing (with apricot) that I so enjoyed with my salad. Meanwhile CL was loving the Warm Chicken salad, pickles, wedges and a Chilli Mayo (10.90). And it was two happy customers that left the Halloween decorated café to continue our journey to Clifden in the heart of Connemara.

The Breaffy House Hotel, our base for the middle night.

Our trip had started two days earlier near Ballina with a visit to relatives. Later that evening, we dined in the quirky Gallery Wine Bar in Westport, details at end. The following day, on the Thursday, we took up an invite to visit the Foxford Woollen Mills and its gorgeous revamped café. Terrific food here also from Chef Kathleen Flavin and you may read about the mill and the meal here…

The morning hadn’t been great but the sun was out and about as we left the mills and so we decided to head for Achill (a change of plan as we had been thinking of visiting the nearby National Museum featuring country living, our rainy day option). And quite a few stops were made and many photos taken as we made our way around the nearer loop (we didn’t go as far as Keem Bay), taking in the sights including the Grace O’Malley castle.

Superb burger, with local beef and bacon and topped with Dubliner cheese, at Oxtail in Balla.

That evening, we headed out to Balla for an excellent evening meal at the Oxtail Kitchen (you’ll find it above the Shebeen Pub on the main street). Here, Balla born Patrick McEllin and French lady Rebecca Miton, support local farmers and producers through the ever changing menu, a menu Patrick describes as classical with a modern twist. We certainly enjoyed our visit. Details also at end.

The following morning we met up with a friend of ours in Westport and enjoyed a chat and the coffee in Leafy Greens before heading west along the road to Louisburgh. First though, we stopped to see the impressive famine memorial in Newport and the horrors of the famine would again be in our minds as we headed to Leenane via the beautiful Doolough valley, haunting and maybe haunted by the happenings there during the famine, and now commemorated by a plain stone memorial as you go through the Doolough Pass. A yearly walk is held along this route in memory of the Doolough dead  of 1847 and to highlight the starvation of the world’s poor today. Otherwise though it is a lovely drive and a terrific cycle route (I’m told!).

Detail from the famine ship memorial in Muirisk

On then through some spectacular roads, including the final Sky Road, to Clifden. That night we would dine in the Marconi Restaurant in Foyle’s Hotel in a room whose decor recalls the exploits here of Marconi and also the story of Alcock and Browne. A good meal was followed (indeed accompanied) by pints of Bridewell, the local brew. Some excellent music in Mullarkey’s Bar meant a pleasant extension to the evening.

The famine memorial in the lovely Doo Lough Valley

Napoleon was all over the
place, even in the bathroom!

We spent the night in the Napoleon room of the quirky and hospitable, if expensive, Quay House, an 8-minute stroll from the town centre. The Quay, which closes up for the winter, has one of the brightest and well appointed breakfast rooms in the country, a conservatory room indeed and a breakfast to match.

Thus fortified, we started up the trusty Toyota and headed south, enjoying the benefit of the newly extended motorway, at least to Limerick. After that we drove through a lot of bends and a whole lot of broken promises by politicians before our home city came into sight.

 

Anyone for breakfast? The gorgeous conservatory at Clifden's Quay House.

Also on this visit:
Dinner and wine at Westport's Gallery
Foxford Woollen Mills: Visit and Lunch

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

Complete list of winners below

Supreme Champions - Marion Roeleveld (left) and Sinead Egan of Killeen Farmhouse Cheese

A huge selection of Ireland’s farmhouse cheesemakers and producers gathered this evening (Thursday 7^th November) at Cork’s Metropole Hotel, eager to learn who had struck gold – and silver and bronze – during the 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards. The list of worthy winners incorporated the finest cheesemakers currently operating in Ireland with 30 industry movers and shakers from all across the country walking away with a coveted award.

Hosted by MC and presenter of RTÉ’s Ear to the Ground Helen Carroll, the prestigious biennial event featured speeches from key CÁIS figures including Chairman Louis Grubb, Chairman of Bord Bia Dan MacSweeney and members of the trade, as well as one of the expert judges John McKenna. Guests were treated to a sumptuous 5-course meal prepared by the Metropole’s Head Chef Stuart Dardis during which 22 award winners – including the Public Vote Award, CÁIS Appreciation Award, Supreme Champion and gold medal winners – were announced. Thursday’s ceremony saw members of CÁIS; key supporters such as Bord Bia, Pallas Foods, Ornua, Horgan’s and Traditional Cheese; judges; cheesemakers; members of the public and trade representatives congregate in celebration of the abundant, diverse and exquisite range of Irish farmhouse cheeses produced on home soil.

The Munster region saw an abundance of gold medal winners, while silver and bronze medalists covered ground from Co. Wicklow to the Aran Islands, with many stops in between. Some of Ireland’s most well-known cheesemakers, such as Coolea Farmhouse Cheese, Durrus Cheese, Bandon Vale and Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese were awarded across multiple categories, as were the Tipperary-based Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers, Waterford-based Knockanore, Galway-based Killeen and Dozio’s of Mayo from the West of Ireland.

Guests at the gala event were particularly eager to hear the results of three of the biggest awards of the night. The first of these to be revealed was the winner of the Public Vote; a category that was introduced for the first time in 2019 and received more than 1,000 votes from members of the public. Macroom-based producer Coolea Farmhouse Cheese was announced as the clear winner, with the Willelm family delighted to accept the award. The CÁIS Appreciation Award was next to be announced and was presented to 2019 judge Dr Kieran Jordan by Chairman of CÁIS Louis Grubb. The final and most anticipated award-winner of the night – Supreme Champion – was announced as Marion Roeleveld for her 5-month matured Killeen Goats Cheese for the Simply Better at Dunnes Stores range, who received rapturous applause from attendees as they made their way to the stage.    

Congrats all round for Supreme Champion (centre front)

Since the previous awards ceremony, which took place in 2017, a range of new cheeses and cheesemakers were also introduced and commended on the night. The winners of the ‘New Cheese (available in last 2 years)’ category hailed from all corners of the country, with Dozio’s of Mayo’s Barr Rua Alpine Style cheese (gold medalist), Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese’s Allenwood Smoked (silver medalist) and Kilnalahan produced by Galway’s Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese (bronze medalist) all scooping awards. Cheesemakers new to the market since 2016 were also rightly showcased and welcomed into the fold, with the brains behind Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar (Bó Rua Farm) and Sheep's Milk Halloumi (Ballyhubbock Farm) winning silver and bronze medals respectively, while Michael Finegan of Boyne Valley Bán (Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheeses) walked away with gold.

This year’s selection of judges included a number of well-known personalities such as Catherine Fulvio, TV chef, award-winning food writer, author and proprietor of Ballyknocken House & Cookery School; Ross Lewis, Michelin Starred Head Chef at Chapter One Restaurant in Dublin; and food writers/bloggers Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford, collectively known as The Gastrogays. The elite judging panel also includes Patrick Clement, Head of Culinary at Pallas Foods; Dr Matthew O’Callaghan OBE, member of UK Protected Food Names Association and Artisan Cheese Fair organiser; Catherine Mead OBE, Chairperson of Specialist Cheesemakers Association (UK) and cheesemaker/owner at Lynher Dairies; Aoife Carrigy, freelance food writer and editor; Dr John McKenna, food writer; Enda Howley, Cheese Grading Expert with Ornua; Monica Murphy, cheese  and wine expert; Rory Mellis, Wholesale Director of Mellis Cheese LTD; Dr Kieran Jordan of Teagasc; Diarmuid Murphy, Simply Better Brand Manager for Dunnes Stores; and John Leverrier, Quality Manager of Sheridans Cheesemongers.

Commenting ahead of the awards ceremony, Padraig O’Farrell of CÁIS said: “The Irish Cheese Awards provide those involved in the industry with a wonderful platform to showcase their work and to transform their brands into household names within Ireland and beyond. The event itself also offers an opportunity for producers, both on a large and small scale, to network and build community links.”

Also speaking ahead of the event, Dan MacSweeney, Bord Bia’s Chairman, said: “While these awards recognise individual excellence, all 68 farmhouse cheesemakers can take an equal share of the credit for the outstanding contribution that the sector, valued at €12 million, has made to the Irish dairy industry, our culinary culture and to local communities.”

For more information on CÁIS and the Irish Cheese Awards 2019 and to view the full list of winners online, visit www.irishcheese.ie. For social media updates, follow CAISIreland on Facebook and @caisireland on Twitter or follow the conversation using #IrishCheeseAwards.

Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Gold Medal Winners:

• Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months – Aldi Irish Mild White Cheddar produced by Glanbia
• Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months – SuperValu Signature Taste Vintage Red Cheddar (counter product) produced by Newmarket Creamery
• Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added) – SuperValu Signature Tastes Gortnamona produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese) – Dunnes Stores Simply Better 5-Month Matured Killeen Goats Cheese produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks) – Bluebell Falls Cream Cheese produced by Bluebell Falls
• Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months – Gurteen Baun Button produced by Galway Goat Farm
• Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months – Killeen Goat Mature produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 8: Sheep's Cheese – Shepherd's Store produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese – NO GOLD WINNER
• Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese – Gubbeen produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse Products
• Class 11: Blue Cheese – Crozier Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months – Dunmanus produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months – Coolea Mature produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added – Zing with Apricot & Almond produced by Dozio's of Mayo
• Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added – Coolea Mature Cumin produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 16: Smoked Cheese – Knockanore Oakwood Smoked Cheddar produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years) – Barr Rua Alpine Style produced by Dozios of Mayo
• Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese – Templegall produced by Hegarty Cheese
• Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016 - Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 20: Public Vote Winner – Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• CAIS Appreaciation Award – Dr Kieran Jordan, Teagasc (retired)  
• Surpreme Champion – Marion Roeleveld, Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
  
   
  
  Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Silver and Bronze Medal Winners:
• Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months
• Silver: Dunnes Stores My Family Favourites Irish Mild White Cheddar 500g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Bronze: Tesco Mild Red Cheddar produced by Wexford Glanbia
• Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months
• Silver: Tesco Extra Mature Irish White Cheddar produced by Carbery Foods Ltd.
• Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added)
• Silver: Simply Better Ripe Cooleeney produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
• Bronze: Simply Better Ardsallagh Goats Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
• Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese)
• Silver: Dunnes Stores Gubbeen Cheese produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse
• Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks)
• Silver: Ardsallagh Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Galway Goat Farm Fresh Goats Cheese produced by Galway Goat Farm
• Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months
• Silver: Aran Island Soft Pearls produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
• Bronze: Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months
• Silver: Clonmore Goat's Cheese produced by Clonmore Cheese
• Bronze: Aran Island Hard Goat's Cheese produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
• Class 8: Sheep's Cheese
• Silver: Cais Na Tire Gouda produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
• Bronze: Cais na Tire produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
• Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese
• Silver: Wicklow Baun produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
• NO BRONZE WINNER
• Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese
• Silver: Milleens Dote produced by Milleens Cheese Ltd.
• Bronze: Durrus produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 11: Blue Cheese
• Silver: Cashel Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Bronze: Kerry Blue produced by Knockatee Natural Dairy
• Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months
• Silver: Carrig Bru matured by Sheridan’s Cheesemongers
• Bronze: Ella – Irish Furmagella produced by Dozio's of Mayo
• Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months
• Silver: Mount Leinster Clothbound produced by Coolattin Cheddar
• Bronze: Mossfield Organic Mature Cheese produced by Mossfield Organic Farm
• Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added
• Silver: Bally Goats Cheese- Garlic & Thyme produced by Bally Goats Cheese
• Bronze: Ardsallagh Cranberry Roulade produced by Ardsallagh
• Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added
• Silver: Castlefarm Fenugreek produced by Carlow Farmhouse Cheese for Castlefarm
• Bronze: Killeen Goat Fenugreek produced by Killeen
• Class 16: Smoked Cheese
• Silver: Wicklow Gold Beechwood Smoked produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Durrus Smoked produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years)
• Silver: Allenwood Smoked produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Kilnalahan produced by Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese
• Silver: Kilmichael Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Sunview Goats
• Bronze: St. Tola Ash Log produced by Inagh Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016
• Silver: Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar produced by Bó Rua Farm
• Bronze: Sheep's Milk Halloumi produced by Ballyhubbock Farm

press release on behalf of CAIS

The Gallery Is A Natural In Westport. Wine, Books, Vinyl and Chats.

The Gallery Is A Natural In Westport.

Wine, Books, Vinyl and Chats.

We were walking down this narrow alley in the Westport night. And then we saw them. A trio of posh-looking black cats, padding stylishly along as if on, well, the catwalk. Then, simultaneously, they, les chats, executed the smoothest slickest synchronised slow-motion U-turn ever. We knew we were in the right place. We saw the welcoming light in the windows of The Gallery Wine Bar. Our directions had included the phrase “Look out for the cats”. I heard later that one of them is called Pinot Noir.

Peppers and cheese tapa

And inside, you will get various Pinot Noirs amid many listed in a catalogue of terrific wines. Generally though you work off two loose pages which indicate the wines available by the glass. But you needn’t confine yourself to those, good and all as they are. Do check out the full book and look at the shelves on the wall. You may well see something you love as I did when I spotted Ageno from La Stoppa in Italy and the delicious Lettre d’Eloise Chardonnay made by Bertrand Ambroise in the heart of France.

We entered the long and narrow space. It was quiet. But not for long. Owner-operator Tom Ramsell was missing but only for a few moments, chasing down some organic grapes in a nearby shop. We settled in on the cushioned seats, taking in a feast for the eyes and the ears (Tom’s vinyl collection gets a regular outing here). For the eyes, there are shelves of books and bottles; posters all over; take down one of those books if you want to read. Pick up a board game if you’d like to play chess, scrabble, or Jenga or one of the dozens of others available.

Tom, a surfer from Manchester, who found his way here a few years ago, will keep you entertained, telling all about his food, all organic, sourced locally (Dozio’s cheese, for instance) and abroad (rare syrups, a rare black cheese from England’s Wookey Hole). And then the wines will lead to endless conversations especially if you have that extra bit of interest. They have regular tastings here and lots of other events too including live music, record launches and more. It’s a lively spot for sure.

More and more people are arriving and soon the long narrow space is more or less full. By then, we have ordered a couple of tapas and a couple of wines: Bodegas Menade, Rueda ‘Verdejo for her and  Beauregard-Mirouze, Corbiéres ‘Campana’ for me.

The tapas are not small and our two multi-bite selections are Piquanté peppers served with Dozio’s of Mayo soft cheese and a spoon of honey, and a plateful of organic medjool dates with walnuts and served with a rare organic agave syrup.

A most diverse selection of organic, biodynamic, natural and skin contact wines 

There is no cooking here, all dishes are assembled on the counter by  Tom himself. He offers a selection of Vegan Plates and we enjoy the superb Baked Moroccan Falafels (described as an elegant blend of Moroccan spices and chickpeas, red peppers, apricots and dates, served with organic Kimchi and organic “spiritual” salad leaves).

The Gallery is also a venue for chats about the environment and sustainability and the future of the planet. Tom is all for organic and natural and saving resources. He’ll take in any old mugs or cups you don’t want and use them here for teas and coffees. He also runs a refill wine service. Bring your own bottle or use one of his.

And you’ll see his ethical streak in most of the food here especially under the Ethical Meat Dish heading and the Sustainable Fish heading. We shared one of the meat dishes: Labourdette Goose Rillettes. These geese are grown in total freedom on lush meadows and are not force-fed. The dish is served with marinated fig (superb), sweet ready to eat black garlic cloves, Velvet Cloud’s sheep cheese with fig and sultan mini-toasts. Quite a treat!

Bt then of course we had moved on to another round of wine, this time enjoying very much the Cantine Rallo, Ciello Bianco ‘Catarratto’ Terre Siciliane IGP, a lovely white; and the excellent Semplicemente red (his white is terrific too), from the late Stefano Bellotti’s winery in Piemonte. My rosso was on its last legs as Tom passed and, before I knew it, he had topped me up generously with the last bit in the bottle. That’s the kind of place this is. Generous, friendly. If you happen to find yourself in the Westport area, do drop in.

* By the way, if you’d like something warm while here, there’s an arrangement with a local pizzeria. Just have your pizza delivered and you may eat it in the Gallery.

The Gallery Café, Wine and Tapas Bar https://thegallerywestport.com/ 

Brewery Lane

Westport

Co. Mayo. 

Also on this trip:
October Wander on Mayo and Galway
Foxford Woollen Mills and Café

The company bikes.