Among the big brands in Kildare Village, I find a familiar name. Crêperie Angelie make an outstanding crêpe with Coolea Cheese!

Among the big brands in Kildare Village, I find a familiar name.

Coolea & Spinach Crêpe

Crêperie Angelie make an outstanding crêpe

with Coolea Cheese!

Thanks to the crepe in my hand, I was thinking of two contrasting villages.

One is Coolea, hardly a village at all, just a scattering of buildings deep in the countryside up in the hills above Ballyvourney in County Cork. Here the Willems family has been making their famous cheese since the 1970s.

Chocolate Block at Lindt

Village mural

What a contrast then with Kildare Village where I was enjoying my crêpe. Here you have an impressive line-up of the biggest brand names in the world cheek by jowl. And there are visitors from all over Ireland and many from Europe and indeed quite a few from beyond.

My crêpe was a beauty and the highlight was Coolea Cheese. I had just ordered it from Crêperie Angelie. The cheese was paired with spinach and all very enjoyable indeed and ideal for a light lunch as a sumptuous dinner was arranged for later on at our hotel, the Clanard Court in Athy.

The Crêperie is one of quite a few food outlets in Kildare Village, so you won't go hungry at all. It is one of the smaller ones. I noticed one doing doughnuts (the Rolling Donut) and Murphy’s Ice Cream of Dingle fame is also there.  If you want something substantial then the likes of Dunne and Crescenzi and Saba will oblige.

Athy's narrow Horse Bridge (1796) at the point where the Barrow River
is joined by the Grand Canal (lock at left)

With the crêpes under our belts, we began walking the village and yet the purchases all had a food connection. The old credit card got a bashing at the tempting Lindt chocolate shop and even more so at Le Creuset.

Later, in Athy, the local Supervalu (Pettitt’s) had a well-stocked craft beer section. I was looking for local breweries and found a few beers from Ballykilcavan, Boyne Brewhouse and Rye River. Happy with that lot! 

And then we headed off to Minch Malt. The brochure claims it is the oldest (opened in 1847) and the largest producer in the country. In its early days, it was one of many malthouses along the banks of the Grand Canal. We returned over Horse Bridge (1796) and walked back to the town centre along the bank of the Barrow (one of the three sisters).

Athy is one of the biggest towns in the county and has quite a lot of history. Unfortunately, the Shackleton Museum is closed for renovations. Next time!

Strong. Ballet dancer with boxing gloves.
An eye-catching mural by Solus on Barrow Quay, Athy
Look closely at the 6 drawings above the "signature".

We also took time to visit Burtown House and Gardens, a few miles away from the hotel. There are over 12 acres of gardens, park and woodland, and 180 acres of remaining farmland from a once 2000-acre estate. There is also a sculpture trail here. 

It was Sunday afternoon and their popular Green Barn restaurant, where the menus are seasonal, was very busy indeed. And they also have accommodation. Our walk around barely scratched the surface so that’s another place, plus the Bog of Allen, that we plan to visit.

Sculpture by Catherine Greene at Burtown House
and below, garden flowers on a woodland path.

Shackleton
in Athy

For any visit to Kildare, the 4-star Clanard Court is excellent, has lovely staff and they’ll feed you well. It also benefits from a central location. Both the M7 and M9 are close by. Newbridge is 26 minutes away, National Stud (20), Naas (32), The Curragh (25), Punchestown (31), St Stephen’s Green (68), Tullamore Dew (58), Ballykilcavan Brewery (18) another must visit, Carlow (27), Kilbeggan Distillery (68) one track mind! From Cork, it is 128 minutes.

Also on this visit (thanks to Into Kildare for helping):

Newbridge Silverware.

Clanard Court Hotel.

Kildare Village - Athy - Burtown House

Recent Visit:

The National Stud & Japanese Gardens 

You're on course for a great time when you stay at Lawlor's of Naas 

Lawlor's Naas is a great base for Kildare's many attractions 

Time to go fishing folks! Head to Goldie

Time to go fishing folks! Head to Goldie

Monkfish

The much loved salmon, popularly known as Goldie, swims forever on top of the tower of St Anne’s in Shandon, in one of the most elevated positions in Cork City. The fish and ale restaurant named Goldie, in the flat of the city, is already in an elevated position when its comes to matters fish on the plate. Our first meal there a few months back was impressive, this latest even more so.They appear to be getting into their stride. Who knows what heights this creative kitchen will hit in the seasons ahead.

Aishling

Lots of hard work here too. After all, they get the whole fish in here every morning. But Head Chef Aishling Moore is relishing it, the head to tail ethos, the challenge that each delivery poses, plus the freedom to create that it also makes possible. “I’m living the dream,” she said on our latest call.

Cork's Goldie Fish (Shandon) and Goldie Angel (Saint Fin Barre's)

The Goldie Menu has three main sections: Snacks, Small Plates, and Mains. You also have sides and desserts of course. And then there’s the beers, all from their own brewery across the road in Elbow Lane, ales formulated by brewer Russell to “specifically suit the foods that we offer”, three on draught, two in bottle. They do have a matching wine list of course and, on the night, had some interesting special offers on.

Snacks

You can expect to see quite a range of fish on the menu. On our visit last week, squid, prawn, ling, oyster, mussel, salt fish brandade, plaice, ray, and monkfish were all in the mix to some degree or other. No meat here but vegetarians are catered for at all stages including a mains of Piccalilli Panisse, Coolea Cheese sauce, and kale.

We started with beers (Elbow Lager and Jawbone Ale - all their beers are named after Cork lanes) and a couple of snacks. The Chickpea Wafer, fennel and Coolea Cheese, was a delicious wee bite but my favourite was the Salted Ling fish finger, with gherkin ketchup.

Oysters

CL continued on the vegetarian path with a small plate of Beetroot, gherkin ketchup, yogurt and horseradish. Absolutely superb, so good I persuaded her to share. She did well too though as she was full of praise for my Tempura of Oysterhaven Oysters, with ponzu sauce. 

That sauce was magic and indeed I thought the combination well capable of converting oyster haters and when I mentioned that to our server, she said she’d seen it happen here. So if you are a bit doubtful about oysters and you find yourself in Goldie, do go for it. Other small plates on the night included Steamed mussels, creamed watercress and cider and also Salt Fish Brandade, seaweed cracker, pickles.

Beetroot

Now, for the main event. We were both tempted by the Whole Roast Plaice, bok choi, café de Paris but that will have to wait for another night! Instead we went for the Ray and Monkfish dishes and a delicious side (shared) of Sea Salt shoestring chips.

Sauces and relishes here are key - like the ponzu earlier. Now it was turn of a well-judged red wine sauce to work its magic with the Pan Fried Ray and the parsnip. And superlatives too for the oyster velouté  and fennel that enhanced the Pan Fried Monkfish. Umami on the double.

Ray

And those thin little chips were also top notch. Other tempting sides available included Chinese cabbage squid, peanut and tahini dressing and also Roast cauliflower and hazelnut brown butter.

Just a short dessert list. We had tried, and enjoyed, the Killahora Orchard apple port Panna cotta on the previous visit and this time picked the equally enjoyable Blood orange posset, brown butter Madeleine, white chocolate and tarragon ganache. Quite a delightful plateful that we shared.

Then time to say goodbye to the very friendly and efficient crew here. But we did have a peek at the upstairs room that has just been opened for service. Downstairs, it is very bright and modern. Upstairs, there is more by way of decor, lots of foliage. Will definitely take the pressure off downstairs at weekends and would also be a lovely room for a midweek party (up to 15 people or thereabouts). 

Party or no party, go fishing folks! Head to Goldie.

Goldie 

128 Oliver Plunkett Street (opposite Market Lane)

Cork

Open 5pm, Tue - Sat.

info@goldie.ie

+353 21 239 8720

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

Complete list of winners below

Supreme Champions - Marion Roeleveld (left) and Sinead Egan of Killeen Farmhouse Cheese

A huge selection of Ireland’s farmhouse cheesemakers and producers gathered this evening (Thursday 7^th November) at Cork’s Metropole Hotel, eager to learn who had struck gold – and silver and bronze – during the 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards. The list of worthy winners incorporated the finest cheesemakers currently operating in Ireland with 30 industry movers and shakers from all across the country walking away with a coveted award.

Hosted by MC and presenter of RTÉ’s Ear to the Ground Helen Carroll, the prestigious biennial event featured speeches from key CÁIS figures including Chairman Louis Grubb, Chairman of Bord Bia Dan MacSweeney and members of the trade, as well as one of the expert judges John McKenna. Guests were treated to a sumptuous 5-course meal prepared by the Metropole’s Head Chef Stuart Dardis during which 22 award winners – including the Public Vote Award, CÁIS Appreciation Award, Supreme Champion and gold medal winners – were announced. Thursday’s ceremony saw members of CÁIS; key supporters such as Bord Bia, Pallas Foods, Ornua, Horgan’s and Traditional Cheese; judges; cheesemakers; members of the public and trade representatives congregate in celebration of the abundant, diverse and exquisite range of Irish farmhouse cheeses produced on home soil.

The Munster region saw an abundance of gold medal winners, while silver and bronze medalists covered ground from Co. Wicklow to the Aran Islands, with many stops in between. Some of Ireland’s most well-known cheesemakers, such as Coolea Farmhouse Cheese, Durrus Cheese, Bandon Vale and Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese were awarded across multiple categories, as were the Tipperary-based Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers, Waterford-based Knockanore, Galway-based Killeen and Dozio’s of Mayo from the West of Ireland.

Guests at the gala event were particularly eager to hear the results of three of the biggest awards of the night. The first of these to be revealed was the winner of the Public Vote; a category that was introduced for the first time in 2019 and received more than 1,000 votes from members of the public. Macroom-based producer Coolea Farmhouse Cheese was announced as the clear winner, with the Willelm family delighted to accept the award. The CÁIS Appreciation Award was next to be announced and was presented to 2019 judge Dr Kieran Jordan by Chairman of CÁIS Louis Grubb. The final and most anticipated award-winner of the night – Supreme Champion – was announced as Marion Roeleveld for her 5-month matured Killeen Goats Cheese for the Simply Better at Dunnes Stores range, who received rapturous applause from attendees as they made their way to the stage.    

Congrats all round for Supreme Champion (centre front)

Since the previous awards ceremony, which took place in 2017, a range of new cheeses and cheesemakers were also introduced and commended on the night. The winners of the ‘New Cheese (available in last 2 years)’ category hailed from all corners of the country, with Dozio’s of Mayo’s Barr Rua Alpine Style cheese (gold medalist), Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese’s Allenwood Smoked (silver medalist) and Kilnalahan produced by Galway’s Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese (bronze medalist) all scooping awards. Cheesemakers new to the market since 2016 were also rightly showcased and welcomed into the fold, with the brains behind Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar (Bó Rua Farm) and Sheep's Milk Halloumi (Ballyhubbock Farm) winning silver and bronze medals respectively, while Michael Finegan of Boyne Valley Bán (Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheeses) walked away with gold.

This year’s selection of judges included a number of well-known personalities such as Catherine Fulvio, TV chef, award-winning food writer, author and proprietor of Ballyknocken House & Cookery School; Ross Lewis, Michelin Starred Head Chef at Chapter One Restaurant in Dublin; and food writers/bloggers Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford, collectively known as The Gastrogays. The elite judging panel also includes Patrick Clement, Head of Culinary at Pallas Foods; Dr Matthew O’Callaghan OBE, member of UK Protected Food Names Association and Artisan Cheese Fair organiser; Catherine Mead OBE, Chairperson of Specialist Cheesemakers Association (UK) and cheesemaker/owner at Lynher Dairies; Aoife Carrigy, freelance food writer and editor; Dr John McKenna, food writer; Enda Howley, Cheese Grading Expert with Ornua; Monica Murphy, cheese  and wine expert; Rory Mellis, Wholesale Director of Mellis Cheese LTD; Dr Kieran Jordan of Teagasc; Diarmuid Murphy, Simply Better Brand Manager for Dunnes Stores; and John Leverrier, Quality Manager of Sheridans Cheesemongers.

Commenting ahead of the awards ceremony, Padraig O’Farrell of CÁIS said: “The Irish Cheese Awards provide those involved in the industry with a wonderful platform to showcase their work and to transform their brands into household names within Ireland and beyond. The event itself also offers an opportunity for producers, both on a large and small scale, to network and build community links.”

Also speaking ahead of the event, Dan MacSweeney, Bord Bia’s Chairman, said: “While these awards recognise individual excellence, all 68 farmhouse cheesemakers can take an equal share of the credit for the outstanding contribution that the sector, valued at €12 million, has made to the Irish dairy industry, our culinary culture and to local communities.”

For more information on CÁIS and the Irish Cheese Awards 2019 and to view the full list of winners online, visit www.irishcheese.ie. For social media updates, follow CAISIreland on Facebook and @caisireland on Twitter or follow the conversation using #IrishCheeseAwards.

Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Gold Medal Winners:

• Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months – Aldi Irish Mild White Cheddar produced by Glanbia
• Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months – SuperValu Signature Taste Vintage Red Cheddar (counter product) produced by Newmarket Creamery
• Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added) – SuperValu Signature Tastes Gortnamona produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese) – Dunnes Stores Simply Better 5-Month Matured Killeen Goats Cheese produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks) – Bluebell Falls Cream Cheese produced by Bluebell Falls
• Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months – Gurteen Baun Button produced by Galway Goat Farm
• Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months – Killeen Goat Mature produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 8: Sheep's Cheese – Shepherd's Store produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese – NO GOLD WINNER
• Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese – Gubbeen produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse Products
• Class 11: Blue Cheese – Crozier Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months – Dunmanus produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months – Coolea Mature produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added – Zing with Apricot & Almond produced by Dozio's of Mayo
• Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added – Coolea Mature Cumin produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 16: Smoked Cheese – Knockanore Oakwood Smoked Cheddar produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years) – Barr Rua Alpine Style produced by Dozios of Mayo
• Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese – Templegall produced by Hegarty Cheese
• Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016 - Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 20: Public Vote Winner – Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
• CAIS Appreaciation Award – Dr Kieran Jordan, Teagasc (retired)  
• Surpreme Champion – Marion Roeleveld, Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
  
   
  
  Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Silver and Bronze Medal Winners:
• Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months
• Silver: Dunnes Stores My Family Favourites Irish Mild White Cheddar 500g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Bronze: Tesco Mild Red Cheddar produced by Wexford Glanbia
• Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months
• Silver: Tesco Extra Mature Irish White Cheddar produced by Carbery Foods Ltd.
• Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added)
• Silver: Simply Better Ripe Cooleeney produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
• Bronze: Simply Better Ardsallagh Goats Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
• Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese)
• Silver: Dunnes Stores Gubbeen Cheese produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse
• Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
• Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks)
• Silver: Ardsallagh Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Galway Goat Farm Fresh Goats Cheese produced by Galway Goat Farm
• Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months
• Silver: Aran Island Soft Pearls produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
• Bronze: Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months
• Silver: Clonmore Goat's Cheese produced by Clonmore Cheese
• Bronze: Aran Island Hard Goat's Cheese produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
• Class 8: Sheep's Cheese
• Silver: Cais Na Tire Gouda produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
• Bronze: Cais na Tire produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
• Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese
• Silver: Wicklow Baun produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
• NO BRONZE WINNER
• Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese
• Silver: Milleens Dote produced by Milleens Cheese Ltd.
• Bronze: Durrus produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 11: Blue Cheese
• Silver: Cashel Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
• Bronze: Kerry Blue produced by Knockatee Natural Dairy
• Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months
• Silver: Carrig Bru matured by Sheridan’s Cheesemongers
• Bronze: Ella – Irish Furmagella produced by Dozio's of Mayo
• Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months
• Silver: Mount Leinster Clothbound produced by Coolattin Cheddar
• Bronze: Mossfield Organic Mature Cheese produced by Mossfield Organic Farm
• Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added
• Silver: Bally Goats Cheese- Garlic & Thyme produced by Bally Goats Cheese
• Bronze: Ardsallagh Cranberry Roulade produced by Ardsallagh
• Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added
• Silver: Castlefarm Fenugreek produced by Carlow Farmhouse Cheese for Castlefarm
• Bronze: Killeen Goat Fenugreek produced by Killeen
• Class 16: Smoked Cheese
• Silver: Wicklow Gold Beechwood Smoked produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Durrus Smoked produced by Durrus Cheese
• Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years)
• Silver: Allenwood Smoked produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
• Bronze: Kilnalahan produced by Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese
• Silver: Kilmichael Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Sunview Goats
• Bronze: St. Tola Ash Log produced by Inagh Farmhouse Cheese
• Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016
• Silver: Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar produced by Bó Rua Farm
• Bronze: Sheep's Milk Halloumi produced by Ballyhubbock Farm

press release on behalf of CAIS

Meet the Cronin Sisters, Champions of Local. The Square Table in Blarney

Meet the Cronin Sisters, the Champions of Local.

At The Square Table in Blarney.

The Cronin sisters at Blarney’s Square Table are pure Cork. When they have something to say, and they often do, it is straight up. Just like the produce they use. Honest to goodness top class stuff, raised and grown locally. They’re not shy about emphasising where their meat, their fish, their veg, comes from. They are rightly proud of it and have a long list at the back of the menu so that you can look for yourself.

So call out to Blarney, to the champions of local. Study that menu and order and then you’ll have all the proof you want on your plate. Because, the twins, Martina and Tricia, are also well capable of handling all that beautiful produce and of serving well cooked and well presented dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a top restaurant. What am I saying? This is a top restaurant, right on the edge of the village green in Blarney.

Crispy Egg

And this dinner of champions won’t cost you the earth. Especially if you go for the Early Bird which is available on Wednesday and Thursday 6pm to 9pm, Friday and Saturday 6pm to 7pm. 2-courses €26.75, 3-courses €31.

I took my own advice last Thursday and called to the Square Table which is looking very well following its renovation and small expansion early in the year. We got a great welcome as always and were soon studying the menus plus the specials. The local Old Butter Road Food Trails Festival kicked off in earnest the previous weekend but, because of the reliance on local produce, the area around Blarney is always well represented on the Square Table menu.

Black pudding

Kanturk’s Jack McCarthy is a member of the Old Butter Roads and you’ll see his name on the menu. As it happened we gave the Early Bird a trial spin and CL’s starter was a delicious McCarthy’s Black Pudding and Puff Pastry Roll, with house piccalilli and apple purée. Perfect.

The Crispy Egg with Ballyhoura Mushrooms and Hollandaise is also a regular on the menu and I was very happy to renew acquaintance with it. The Early Bird was off to a flier and the standard stayed high right to the finalé.

My main course was O’Connell’s pan-fried hake, buttered leeks, celeriac purée, pickled Ballyhoura Mushrooms. It was exquisite, perfection on a plate, as we’ve come to expect here, their high standards never seem to drop, amazing consistency meal after meal.

West Cork Chicken

I just kept saying perfection to myself and CL was also humming across the table as she enjoyed her West Cork Chicken, Cauliflower purée, Wild Garlic, Coolea cheese. And another thing I keep saying is to keep an eye on the small things in a restaurant as they can tell you a lot. Take the sides here, for instance: mashed potato, carrot and kale, sweet potato and turnip purée. They too were top notch, you could have had a lovely dish with just those on their own!

Time then for dessert; again we decided to share. The Crumble of the Evening (caramelised apple and rhubarb) with Featherbed Farmhouse Vanilla ice-cream was our pick. The crumble topping was light and lightly applied while everything underneath was full of soft and softer textures and delicious flavours with a touch of sweetness. Another Square Table meal made with skill and delivered with a smile. Why wouldn’t we come again!  

Read all the detailed Square Table menus here