A Loire White From The Banks Of The Cher. Plus a lovely Chablis.

Loire White From The Banks Of The Cher. Plus A Lovely Chablis.

The historic chateau of Chenonceau

Domaine du Haut Perron Touraine Chenonceau (AC) 2015, 13.5%, €19.95 Le Caveau, Bradley’s Cork

The vineyards for this Guy Allion Sauvignon Blanc are planted on slopes overlooking the Cher River (a Loire tributary), close to the gorgeous chateau of Chenonceauand not too far from historic Amboise (once home of the French royal court) where Leonardo Da Vinci spent the closing years of his life.

No problem with planning permission in 16^th century. Just demolish most of the existing structure and build your own. That was how Thomas Bohier and his wife got to build the fantastic Château of Chenonceau that now straddles the River Cher in the Loire. It is one of the loveliest of the Loire chateaus and also one of the most popular. 

And there were more fascinating ladies right up to the 20^th century when Simone Menier was in charge when two galleries of the chateau were transformed, at her family’s expenses, into a hospital for the wounded of the Great War. During World War 11, Chenonceau was on the line of demarcation and then Simone carried out numerous actions for the resistance. Simone, who died in 1972, was a member of the Menier family, the chocolatiers, who bought the chateau in 1913 and still own it today.

Last year in Cork, I met Nicolas Donne, a representative of Guy Allion, and he was delighted with this wine: “It can be made only in the valley of the Cher, a new appellation since 2011. Aromatic and elegant, it comes in its own unique bottle (made in Italy) and can age for ten years”.

Colour of this well balanced wine is a very light straw. Aromas, of moderate intensity, feature white fruits. It is a crisp wine with delicate fruit flavours (apple, pear, melon), citrus notes too, a noticeable tingle of minerality, all retained to the end. Highly Recommended.

Domaine Gérard Tremblay Chablis (AC) 2015, 12.5%, €20.80 Bradley’s Cork, Le Caveau

Unoaked and produced from 10 to 30 year old vines. Take a look and you’ll see the characteristic light yellow with green tints. Take a sniff and you’ll note the white stone fruits aromas typical of this Kimmeridgian soil. Take a sip and you’ll taste the fruits, lime and apple, on the generous, almost creamy, palate, the local minerality also showing through. Perfectly balanced, more or less, this well made Chablis finishes well and is Highly Recommended.

Chenonceau: The Ladies’ Chateau

Day 7
Chenonceau: The Ladies’ Chateau

No problem with planning permission in 16^th century. Just demolish most of the existing structure and build your own. That was how Thomas Bohier and his wife got to build the fantastic Château of Chenonceau that now straddles the River Cher in the Loire.

It is one of the loveliest of the Loire chateaus and also one of the most popular. Big crowds there in the heat today (31 degrees at one point) but the system works and you get good value for your eleven euro, thirteen if you include the Wax Museum as we did. You also get to see some marvellous gardens, a 16^th century farming village, a maze, a picnic area (in the car park) and more.

One of many impressive fireplaces

Catherine Briconnet, the wife of the first owner Thomas Bohier, was the first of a chain of strong willed women associated with Chenonceau. Others included Diana de Poitiers (a favourite of Henry II), the Henry’s widow Catherine de Medici (who topped Diana’s bridge with a gallery) and Louise of Lorraine who on the death of her husband Henry III dressed in mourning white, decorated her room in black and spent the rest of her days in prayer. 

Louis XIV (official potrait)

And there were more fascinating ladies right up to the 20^th century when Simone Menier was in charge when two galleries of the chateau were transformed, at her family’s expenses, into a hospital for the wounded of the Great War. During World War 11, Chenonceau was on the line of demarcation and then Simone carried out numerous actions for the resistance. Simone, who died in 1972, was a member of the Menier family, the chocolattiers, who bought the chateau in 1913 and still own it today.

Diane's garden, from the gallery

You don’t have to pay to view the exterior of Chateau. You are free to stroll along the river banks. Perhaps the best way to see it is by boat. Some people arrived by canoe while we were there. And so too did a family on a rib. They cut the engine as they viewed the impressive building and then had trouble starting it. The man tried a few times without success and then really put a bit of muscle into the effort, so much so that he fell backwards into the water! But no problem as the river is very shallow at this point.

Louise de Lorraine in mourning white

You could spend a whole day here, especially if you are interested in gardens. We were fascinated by the flower and vegetable garden. But you will be well catered for with a number of restaurants, including a self service and a creperie plus a gourmet one in the Green Garden. And there is also a nice ice cream stand there.

19th century visitor Gustave Flaubert

It is all very impressively organised. We had no problem finding our way around with the help of the  leaflet that you get in your own language on the way in. It is full of photos and information on the various rooms and gardens and the map is brilliant. Must say this was one of the best visits I’ve ever enjoyed and well worth the thirteen euro.

Celosia (in the flower & vegetable garden)