Bauduc’s Superior Red Double

Bauduc’s Superior Red Double

Summer (2014) tasting at Bauduc

Chateau Bauduc Close de Quinze 2012, Bordeaux supérieur, 14% abv, €18.99 at Red Nose Wines

This single vineyard blend, of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, is supple and fruity, a classic Bordeaux, produced by English couple Gavin and Angela Quinney in their lovely vineyard, Chateaux Bauduc near Créon, in between the Garonne and Dordogne.

This is a very dark red, almost black, with ripe red fruit on the nose. It is a Bordeaux supérieur, for sure, but with a certain restraint, sophistication even. There's no mistaking its fruit, supple and pervasive all over the palate, right through to a delightful long and dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Château Bauduc 'Les Trois Hectares' Rouge, Bordeaux supérieur 2010, 13.5%, €28.00 Curious Wines & Red Nose Wines

“We only make Les Trois Hectares red in really good years, like 2010. The grapes come from the three best parcels of Merlot and the wine is aged in new and one-year old French oak barrels.” I tasted this Merlot last June during a very pleasant visit to Gavin and Angela at Bauduc and it was marvellous. Now, in depths of winter, it still comes up trumps, full flavoured and elegant. No difficulty in seeing why the 2006 was the top selling red at Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin star restaurant in London. Indeed, the Ramsey tasting crew had left the chateau just before we arrived. Another Very Highly Recommended red from the outskirts of Créon. Indeed, if you are on holidays in the area, why not make a visit. But do contact them before you do so. Better again, why not stay there as they have a large house, with pool, to let in the grounds! Info here.

Karwig and Curious

Karwig and Curious

This old Citroen is now parked up at Chateau Bauduc.
But don't worry, deliveries to Curious Wines continue!

Curious Christmas

Just been flicking through the Curious Wines brochure, another really professional effort. Didn't have to go far to find some good wines at a very good price. With twenty percent off Spanish wines (Chilean also) at the moment, take note of the El Circo wines at 8 euro (I'm impressed with the Macabeo). Note too the Beso de Vino series (including another decent Macabeo). On Page 11, don't overlook the Portuguese pair, Stella white and red, each at 9 euro.

Now that’s the party sorted, how about a few for yourself. I'd be very happy with a bottle of Tim Adam’s “Bluey’s Block” Grenache (16.99) or anything, red or white, even rosé, by Gavin Quinney at Chateau Bauduc. Another Grenache worth a look is the Saint Cosme “Little James”. This is unusual as it is non-vintage but a “winner” according to Robert Parker. And me!

And if you’re feeling especially pleased with yourself, take a look at the Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc (18.99) and their amazing Pinot Noir (26.00). No shortage of Christmas box suggestions from the folks at Curious. The Chateau Bauduc Bordeaux Sauvignon and Merlot is a twin pack I’d recommend at a reasonable 30 euro. Enjoy.

By the way, if you want to sample before you buy, Curious are open for Christmas Tastings next Saturday (6th) and Sunday (7th), in both the Cork and Naas stores. Times are 12.30pm to 6.00pm both days. More info here  

Casale Vecchio Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2009, 13.5%, €16.95 Karwig Wines

I have to admit that I usually like wines made with the Montepulciano grape, often look for it on restaurant lists, and this is no exception. Confusingly, there is an Italian village of the same name.

This deep red, with intense, fruity, gorgeous aromas, is a superb wine. On the palate it is well endowed with fruit flavours, plum mainly, also spice, dry with good length. This “flagship wine” of a “well respected winery” is best served with meat and grilled food, excellent also with “seasoned”cheese. Very Highly Recommended.

Superb Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc. Check this Cuvée Grêle 2013!

Superb Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc

Check this Cuvée Grêle 2013!

Gavin Quinney at
Chateau Bauduc June 2014.

Mention Sauvignon Blanc these days and the next sentence will almost certainly contain the words New Zealand and maybe, just maybe, the Loire. New Zealand is well known for its distinctively aromatic pungent style while the traditional Loire style is often described with words like minerality and acidity.

New Zealand, where it is by far the most widely grown grape, is not the only New World country producing good Sauvignon Blanc. Chile is another, excellent examples coming from the cooler coastal areas of this long and narrow country. And there are quite a few more, both old and new world.

But let’s go back to France again and search that little bit harder. In Bordeaux (which may have seen the birth of this grape). I know many of us are under the impression that all Bordeaux whites (now increasingly rated higher by Mr Parker) are all a blend of SB and Semillon in all kinds of proportions.

But there are quite a few one hundred per cent Sauvignon Blancs in the area, including the pair below. And do note that Bauduc is available in Ireland via Curious Wines!

Chateau Bauduc, Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Bordeaux, 11.5%

Lovely fruit flavours here with excellent balance, crisp and dry with a little tingle and a lovely long finish. This gem, somewhat fuller than the Loire style, has been the house wine at Gordon Ramsey’s and Rick Stein’s for over a decade, showing you don't have to be in the Loire to make excellent French Sauvignon Blanc. Very Highly Recommended.

We are lucky to have this one at all. Vigneron Gavin Quinney notes on the back label: “We call this our Cuvée Grêle (hail) as we lost half our crop on 2 August, just before the September harvest.”

Chateau Rochemorin, Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux.

Came across this beauty in an one star Michelin restaurant in Arcachon (Le Patio) and absolutely enjoyed, even if it came in at fifty euro a pop. Enjoyed it even more when I found I could buy it in Podensac for €11.95.

In the Loire in 2013, I bought more red than whites and this year, in Bordeaux, I bought more whites than red. Pessac-Leognan is, according to Oz Clarke, “one of the most exciting areas in France for top-class white wines” while Hugh Johnson says it has Bordeaux’s “finest barrel fermented dry whites’. High praise indeed.

The highly respected Andre Lurton is the man in charge here and impressed even Jancis Robinson with this one who described it as racy and lively and “giving white burgundy a run for its money”.

It spends 10 months in oak barrels (35% new), on full lees with bâtonnage. Believe it or not  it can age 12 to 15 years but is excellent after 2 to 5 years. I’ll have my purchases wiped out by Christmas, at the latest!

Lots of white fruit on the nose, it is rich and fresh and beautifully balanced. Well worth seeking out if you are on hols in France. Not sure if you’ll find it in Ireland though I see that Wine Online are offering the 2007 version.

Other Sauvignon Blanc recommendations

New Zealand: Fiona Turner’s Tinpot Hut and Fleur McCree’s Little Beauty are both excellent Marlborough examples. Also worth a try is Tim and Judy Finn’s fresh herbaceous Neudorf from the Nelson area.

Chile: Aresti’s Trisquel Sauvignon Blanc and Cono Sur’s Single Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Valle de Casablanca.

Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Day 9 in Arcachon 10th June

Gavin Quinney knew about terroir but was somewhat sceptical when he started winemaking at Chateau Bauduc fifteen years back. Hail stones weren't in the wine equation then. But they sure are now. Fifteen years on, Englishman Gavin believes in hail and terroir. And much more besides.

Gavin checking Merlot

Chateau Bauduc is found in the area known as Entre deux Mers, the wide strip of land between the Dordogne and the Gironde. Bauduc couldn't be more entre. Gavin, and his dogs, took us around his 25 hectares of vines, some quite young, some quite old (Semillon planted in 1947). Vines are like people, mused Gavin as he pointed out the gnarly old Semillon and its lack of vigour (though not necessarily of quality). Seems though, they will not be here much longer.

This is a working vineyard and in between Gavin had chats with various people - work goes on. And it is detailed work, labour intensive, hands on. He pointed to his many rows of vines, including Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and said each single plant would be visited by man or machine at least twenty times over the year

After all that hard work we retreated to the steps of the chateau itself for the tasting. Having seen so many museum like chateaux in France, it was some change to see a lived-in one! On the steps and in the sunshine we met his wife Angela.

We started with his 2012 Bordeaux blanc, all Sauvignon blanc, and a real beauty. Then we moved onto the lightly oaked Clos des Quinze 2012 Bordeaux, a classic blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Just sipping a glass of it again now as I type and it is just perfect, a great balance of fruit flavours and acidity.

From the 159th step!

They just kept getting better.  Next up was the 2010 Les Trois Hectares, a Bordeaux superieur Merlot. Marvellous. And the good thing about these wines, unlike many that I write about on these trips, is that they are available in Ireland via Curious Wines http://www.curiouswines.ie.

Crossing the Gironde at Langoiran

Bauduc is near the town of Créon and here we enjoyed a lunchtime sandwich and a drink in a bakery recommended by Gavin. Headed on then to a local landmark, the Abbaye de la Sauve Majeure. It is now a ruin but much of the shell remains as does the bell tower. The receptionist more or less dared me to take that on and, with some power from the Bauduc wines, I scaled the 159 steps in record time.

Had been hoping to visit a top restaurant in Arcachon but it closes on Tuesday. Luckily for us, we found another traiteur just across the road and the madame here was welcoming and smiling. We liked that and liked her food as well, including a main course of beef tongue. Three courses costs us about twenty one euro. And we had lots of Bauduc to wash it down! Say no more.

Thank you Mr Quinney

Thank you Mr Quinney

Just have to say a major merci to Gavin Quinney and all the crew at Chateau Bauduc for making great wines and to the guys and gals at Curious Wines for stocking them. Helped myself to a couple recently and each was superb.

Château Bauduc, Les Trois Hectares, Semillon 2010 (also known as Bordeaux blanc sec), 13% abv, €14.39 (reduced from 17.99) Curious Wines

Bordeaux for sure but with a couple of noticeable differences: the Stelvin closure and the fact that the main grape, Semillon, is named on the front label.

Colour is light gold and it is bright. Nose is aromatic and on the palate it is fresh and lively (almost fizzy) and dry. A lovely dry white, excellent texture and complexity, perhaps reflecting that the grapes used come from a seven acre vineyard of gnarled, 60 year old vines. By the way the actual blend is 80% Sémillon with 20% Sauvignon Blanc.

Just about 1400 cases were produced. The wine is listed at Gordon Ramsey ad Rick Stein, one of whom is a favourite of mine! This is a super wine, great value at Curious at the moment and is Very Highly Recommended!

Chateau Bauduc Close de Quinze, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Cotes de Bordeaux), 14% abv, €13.59 (reduced from 16.99), Curious Wines

This is a very dark red, almost black, with ripe red fruit on the nose. Quite a mouthful, fruity, spicy and on then on to a terrific dry finish. “Powerful yet classic red Bordeaux.” Yes indeed and at a good price. Two thousand and ten “was a magnificent ripe vintage”. This blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cab Sauv takes full advantage and is Very Highly Recommended.

Must say one thing I really like about Chateau Bauduc, aside from the wine of course, is the clarity on the label, lots of to-the-point info, no hype.

Chateau Bauduc at the Cornstore

Chateau Bauduc at the Cornstore

Thursday turned out to be quite a night at The Cornstore with Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc providing the wines for an excellent five course meal. Gavin Quinney (and family) took over this chateau in 1999 and led it from strength to strength. It is quite a story and may be read here.

From Gavin’s earliest vintages, the critics have been

We've got the menu! Cornstore Wine Dinner Update

And it looks fabulous!
The Cornstore chefs and Chateau Bauduc combine...
should be some night.. Thursday next (18th)
booking details here 

Lamb and corriander kebab, mint couscous and harrissa dressing
serve with Château Bauduc Bordeaux Rosé

Pan fired queen scallop, spaghetti of vegetable and piquante sauce
serve with Chateau bauduc blanc sec sauvignon blanc

Deconstructed atlantic bouillabaisse
serve with Chateau Bauduc "les trois hectares" semillon blanc

Slow roast rump of beef, gratin dauphinois, pan fried baby spinach and creamy wild mushroom sauce
serve with Château Bauduc Clos des Quinze (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)

Chocolat fondant with cherry heart and  cherry coulis
serve with Château Bauduc Les Trois Hectares (Merlot)