Get to Midleton's Sage for Sunday Lunch or Dinner. Chop, chop!

 Get to Midleton's Sage 

for Sunday Lunch or Dinner. Chop, chop!

Chop

Looking for a treat this weekend. Then make haste to Midleton’s Sage. We were there last Sunday and the highlight was a pork chop. I kid you not. This was a pork chop like you rarely see nowadays, thanks largely to the skill of chef Darren Kennedy.

The menu is very flexible. Choose one from the Snacks plus one from the sides if you don't want to eat too much. There is amazing variety, not to mention quality, on offer, as the new chef is full of invention and those tastebuds will be saying thank you for coming for a long while afterwards.

And last Sunday we were thanking Chef Kennedy. Many of you will know him from his time at St Francis Provisions in Kinsale. After a culinary education in his native Cork City, he broadened his experience in London before returning to the Head Chef position in Kinsale and then he joined Sage about 12 months ago.

Like Sage co-owner Kevin Aherne, Darren draws from local produce including Rossmore Oysters, Caherbeg Meats (that chop), fish from Ballycotton, cheese from Ballinrostig and much more.

Smoked Haddock & Gouda Bhaji

Back to the table now! And that Pork Chop, supplied by the Allshire family in Rosscarbery who also supply beef here, was quite a treat! Already sliced and diced and so tender and packed to the edges with pleasure inducing flavours. It came with braised courgettes (these really enhanced the meat to a higher level) and there were other little pork bits in there as well and that trotter sauce tempted me to lick the plate (i did resist!). Also at hand was a side of smoked potatoes, a side that comes with all dishes from the grill.

From The Chargrill is another subsection of the menu. Others sections are Snacks, Small Plates, Mains, and Sides. You are bound to find something you like here! How about Cavatelli, monkfish, smoked tomatoes and purple basil?

Hake

CL’s main was another gem: Hake, Pumpkin, Borlotti Beans and a Mussel Velouté. Again a perfect combination of taste and texture, those superb beans from the Gortnacrusha Biodiversity Farm a perfect complement to the fish. 

She had been tempted by the Plaice (whole), Almond and Grenobloise but was very happy with the hake. Other mains included a Market Plate - Grilled Seasonal Vegetables, Ricotta and Walnuts and also a Beef Burger, Sesame Bun, cheese, pickles and chips.

Some tempting small plates also such as a Sirloin Carpaccio; Smoked Pork Nuggets; a Crab Caesar. A couple of snacks to mention: Marinated Olives and Gunpowder Cashews.

And it was from the quartet of snacks that we picked two to start with. We shared the Grilled Focaccia with Romesco and the Smoked Haddock & Gouda Bhaji, Labneh and Caviar. You’ll rarely see better Focaccia in these parts and the Bhaji was a rare treat as well. We didn’t make it to dessert, even the famed Midleton Brick was left to another occasion.

Grilled Focaccia

Driving duties also put the alcohol on hold and they have a quality selection here. Outstanding wines include the Tandem Casual Tempranillo  ( 90%) and Chateau de Cèdar Malbec while the Whites include the Judith Beck Chardonnay and the Frantz Saumon Sauvignon Blanc.

No shortage of cocktails here, lots of spirits too. They have their own lager on tap, bottles of the gluten free 9 White Deer beers and also the Stonewell Cider (that could go well with the pork chop!).

Sage contacts here  

Eating Out latest…restaurants cafes trucks.. up to date here 

Taste of the Week. Aged Ballinrostig Gouda.

Taste of the Week. 

Aged Ballinrostig Gouda.

One of the highlights over Christmas and the New Year was a big chunk of Aged Ballinrostig Gouda style cheese that came in a hamper that we had treated ourselves to. We had a few cheeses ahead of it in the queue and it was only recently that we tucked into this.

The Gouda style cheese is made in East Cork with organic Jersey cow milk and aged for 12 to 18 + months. A beautiful stronger complex flavoured hard cheese with sweet nutty and caramel notes that manages to hold onto its creamy past. We were impressed from the first bite and made it our Taste of the Week.

We weren't overly surprised of course as we've often tasted their regular cheeses at markets and via stores such as Bradley's in North Main Street. But the aging here certainly takes it to another level, the height of Umami!

In 2014 Michele and Stephen (from Holland) renovated and moved into Michele’s family home in the village of Ballinrostig near Whitegate in beautiful East Cork. As part of the revamp, they transformed the old garage into a small purpose-built dairy which was intended for making cheese as a hobby. In 2015 they started to sell commercially and within two years they both had left their careers to meet the growing demand for their delicious cheese. 

Ballinrostig Cheese

Ballinrostig, Whitegate, Co. Cork Midleton, Ireland P25PE00

Web: https://ballinrostighomestead.ie/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/corkcheese

Tel: 0879160440

FEAST Launch. Amazing Week Coming Soon

FEAST Launch

Amazing Week Coming Soon

Cork County Mayor, Declan Hurley, was in the Malthouse of the Midleton Distillery last Tuesday to help launch FEAST, the East Cork Food and Drink Festival. The Mayor, well used to the Taste of West Cork Festival, encouraged those involved in FEAST to keep it local.

Kevin Aherne spoke on behalf of FEAST and he too stressed that provenance had to be a key factor in the festival. Not too much point in a local food festival unless the local food and drink is at the heart of it.

This is the first time that the former Midleton festival has been marketed as FEAST and the hope is to spread it even further in the East Cork area in the future. And to do that, even more sponsorship will be necessary. 

For now, the committee are grateful for the help coming from Irish Distillers, Cork County Council, Secad, Red FM, Taste Cork, Ireland’s Ancient East, Jim Crowley, Midleton Park Hotel, Market Green, Ballymaloe Relish, East Cork Journal, Pallas, Sage, Cully & Sully and Wiser Recycling.

The cooperative spirit behind the venture was well illustrated on the menu for the evening and we enjoyed a lovely four course meal in the Malthouse. The Farmgate produced the starter, a delicious combination of Ballycotton Seafood smoked salmon, crushed mint potato salad, caper and citrus dressing.

No shortage of wine as the evening progressed to the Ferrit and Lee main course: Beef feather blade marinated with Jameson, fondant potato, celeriac purée, roast onion, baby carrots and thyme jus. Perfect.

Conversation left and right at this stage, live music too, as dessert appeared, courtesy of Sage: Sixty four per cent Midleton chocolate delice, brittle, butterscotch. Say no more!

And on then to the Malthouse cheese board: Ballinrostig Gouda, Bo Rua Cheddar, and Ballymaloe Chutney. And we finished as we had started. With whiskey. On arrival, there was the perfect Jameson serve with ginger ale and lime. And the finalé was a glass of Black Barrel, one of my favourites from Jameson, so called because the barrels are well charred!

Thanks to Irish Distillers, John Wall, Frank Murphy, Village Greengrocer and Wilkies Chocolate, who also had an input in the meal.

Time for the taxis then and to look forward to the big week that begins on Monday, September 4th. You can see the daily highlights here http://www.corkbilly.com/2017/08/feast-in-east-midleton-festival-expands.html, lots of evening meals.

But the closing Saturday, beginning in Midleton at 11.00am is a big day and is indeed billed as the major event. The main street will be packed with stalls and, this year, you’ll have a long table to sit down, relax and eat some of the goodies on sale. No doubt there’ll be tasty bites too from the restaurant tent and the farmers market. And the children will have their own area with music shows, puppets and amusements.

And the FEAST demo marquee has a long list of demos including one with Justin Greene on Bertha’s Revenge Gin, a sourdough demo by top baker Patrick Ryan, a seafood masterclass by Ciaran Scully, an invite to her kitchen by Lilly Higgins and then a East v West cook-off between Kevin Aherne and Marin Shanahan (Fishy Fishy).

If you still have any energy left, then get yourself into the courtyard in Sage on Sunday for a #12 mile BBQ with music, fun and a “BBQ that Midleton has never seen before”.

September sunshine on the menu. (Sage photo)

Veronica Steele. Pioneer in Irish cheese. Focus too on County Cork in new Oxford Companion to cheese.

Veronica Steele. Pioneer in Irish cheese.

Focus too on County Cork in new Oxford Companion to cheese.

A buffalo on Johnny Lynch's farm, near Macroom

Pioneer cheesemaker Veronica Steele is credited with the development of modern Irish artisanal cheese and County Cork cheese in general gets a section to itself in the The Oxford Companion to Cheese, due to be published on December 1st. 

The 1084 page book, edited by Dr Catherine Donnelly, is the first major reference work dedicated to cheese and contains 855 A-Z entries in cheese history, culture, science and production. 

In the early 1970s, Steele and her husband, Norman, a lecturer in philosophy at Trinity College Dublin, decided to leave the city and the academic life in favour of raising a family on a small farm. 

Veronica first experimented to provide an alternative to processed cheese for her family and to preserve the excess milk from their one cow. She eventually evolved a soft and pungent washed rind cheese called Milleens. It was a great success and by 1981 was selling in shops and restaurants throughout Ireland and as far away as London and Paris. 

Steele was also inspired by cheesemaking as a route to viability for a rural area struggling with high unemployment. Today, Veronica and Norman’s son Quinlan carry on the tradition of making Milleens, but the book says that all of Ireland owes Veronica Steele a debt of gratitude for her vision and generosity of spirit. 

The big breakthrough for Milleens came when Declan Ryan and Myrtle Allen tasted her cheese and enthusiastically featured their discovery on the cheese boards of two of Ireland’s most renowned restaurants, Arbutus Lodge and Ballymaloe House.

The West Cork washed-rind cheeses Milleens, Durrus, Gubbeen, and North Cork’s Ardrahan, each has an international reputation, and were all created by remarkable, spirited women, most inspired by Veronica. The flavour of Milleens is reminiscent of Munster (not the local Munster!).

Jeffa Gill started to make her semi-soft, washed-rind Durrus cheese on her hillside farm in Coomkeen on the Sheep’s Head Peninsula in 1979. She too was one of the first generation of Irish farmhouse cheese-makers. Using artisanal methods, Jeffa and her team, gently and slowly craft a cheese that is closely linked to the land and the mild and humid climate.

Gubbeen farmhouse cheese is made from the milk of Tom and Giana Ferguson’s herd of Friesian, Jersey, Simmental, and Kerry cows. One of the distinguishing characteristics of Gubbeen cheese is the unique type of microflora on the rind, which has now been identified and given the name Microbacterium gubbeenense.

Ardrahan, made by Mary Burns near Kanturk in North Cork since 1983, is possibly the feistiest and most pungent of all the washed-rind cheeses of County Cork.

Although the washed-rind cows milk cheeses have the highest profile they are by no means the whole cheese story of County Cork. Other fine cheeses, made from both cows milk and goats milk and now buffalo, round out Cork’s contribution to cheesemaking. 

Coolea

Dick and Helene Willems started making Coolea cheese in 1979 as a way to use up excess raw milk from their own herd of cattle and to provide the Gouda cheese that they were craving from their native Netherlands. Their son Dicky continues to make the superb cheese using milk from two local herds. 

Dicky told me an interesting story on a recent visit. Their cheese was to be called Milleens after the local townland but that was knocked on the head as the Steeles, further west, on the Beara peninsula, and living in a townland of the same name, had just started making a cheese called Milleens. And so the Coolea brand was born.

St Gall, by Fermoy

Frank Shinnick and his German wife, Gudrun, began making raw-milk cheese in 1996 from their own dairy herd outside Fermoy, in North Cork. The cheeses are made in a 396-gallon (1,500-litre) copper vat procured at considerable effort from Switzerland. Fermoy cheeses are part of the Slow Food raw-milk cheese presidium. 

There are many other cheesemakers in the Cork area, such as the O’Farrells in Carrigaline and the Hegartys in Whitechurch, both well established. 

“I love the smoked cheese”, declared Padraig O’Farrell during a visit. “It is indigenous to Carrigaline. The milk is local, and the wood, old beech, is local. And we smoke it out the back.”

Hegarty’s make cheddar and their more mature versions are in great demand. The oldest is indeed the more popular though, according to Dan Hegarty, his bank manager would prefer if the youngest was in top position!

Goats Milk Cheeses 

Jane Murphy

Jane Murphy, a microbiologist by profession, is perhaps the queen of goats milk cheese in County Cork, having started to make cheese on the Ardsallagh farm in 1980. At the other side of the city, Orchard Cottage thrives as does Blue Bells Falls in Newtownshandrum in North Cork.  

In Kilmichael, you’ve got the Sunview goats. Further west, on Cape Clear Island off West Cork, the remarkable blind cheesemaker Ed Harper makes small quantities of cheese from the milk of British Alpine goats that graze on his beautiful rocky farmland.

New Cheesemakers

Franco, cheesemaker at Toons Bridge Dairy, near Macroom

A few years back, neighbours Toby Simmonds and Johnny Lynch imported water buffalo and began making Toons Bridge mozzarella. A “parting” saw Johnny continue to make and sell the cheese, but now under the Macroom label.

There followed a burst of creativity at Toby’s Toons Bridge dairy and a few interesting Italian style cheeses emerged, including Cacio Cavallo (traditionally tied in pairs and transported to market by pack horse). And thanks to an Italian living near by, who has a small herd of sheep, Toons Bridge also began to make Vicenza’s Pecorino.

Cacio Cavallo (mainly) in Toons Bridge

And two new cheesemakers have emerged in East Cork this year. You’ll find the cheddar style cheese from the farm of Bó Rua used in the 12 mile menu at Midleton’s Sage Restaurant and on sale generally. Not too far away, Stephen Bender produces a delicious Gouda style cheese called Ballinrostig.

Looks like there’s no end to what Veronica Steele started!

The Oxford companion, the most comprehensive work on cheese available, has drawn on an astonishing 325 authors (from 35 countries), from cheesemakers and cheese retailers to dairy scientists, microbiologists, historians and anthropologists. 

It is a landmark encyclopaedia, the most wide-ranging, comprehensive, and reliable reference work on cheese available, suitable for both novices and industry insiders alike.

* Cork has a butter museum. Time now for a cheese museum?

See also:
Cashel Blue featured in new Oxford Companion to Cheese