Superb Wild Geese. Medieval Kilmallock. No go at Gur.
Crab in Smoked Salmon |
Not the best of days but a superb finish. And not just the
ending back here at the Mustard Seed, sipping some red wine in front of a
blazing June fire!
That final luxury came after a superb meal in Adare’s Wild
Geese, run for the last 14 years by David Foley and Julie Randles. Enjoyed a
tasty Goat Cheese Amuse Bouche and then followed two of the best starters you are
likely to find.
CL’s was a Terrine of lamb fillet, with a chicken and basil
mousse, wrapped in smoked bacon served with Lentil dressing and homemade tomato
chutney. Not listed were orange bits and an apple puree. Nothing superfluous,
all added up to perfection.
Dominican Friary, Kilmallock |
Mine was also high class: a parcel of Kenmare smoked salmon
stuffed with crabmeat and served with a cucumber and dill salsa. Sharp and
tasty, it woke up those taste buds, just like a flurry of sea foam coming over
the cliffs and waking you up on the morning after the night before.
For the mains, I went for the trio of Barbary Duck: Roast
Breast, Spring roll of confit and a warm salad of smoked duck. Three out of
three! And CL’s Roast Atlantic Cod, topped with crab meat, on a bed of rösti
and with a sauce of mussels was a happy dish, like the fishing fleet coming in.
Wine was something of a compromise between white and red but
the Round Hill Merlot from sunny California lacked nothing in quality and
gained a couple of fans on a drizzly night at the Munster crossroads of the
tour buses.
Lough Gur |
Nearby Kilmallock, once the crossroads of Munster, has a
wealth of history and the buildings, or at least the remains of buildings, to
prove it. Most visitors will be familiar with John’s Castle on Sheare’s Street.
Built in the 15th century, it is a “fine example of a ‘Peel’ tower. It has been
suggested that it saw use as a town gate; other uses included as an arsenal
during the war against Cromwell, a meeting place for the local corporation, a
school, even a blacksmith’s forge!
Also visited the Priory, a 13th century Dominican
abode. The five-light east window of the church is one its impressive features.
Not too much of the cloister remains. Another 13th century ruin,
that of the Collegiate Church, stands nearby.
Another call was to the massive Church of SS Peter and Paul,
built towards the end of the 19th century and still functioning. Juts
behind it is the Martyrs’ Monument, erected in memory of three priests hanged
in the last quarter of the 16th century and beatified in Rome in
1992.
Adare |
Had been looking forward to my visit to Lough Gur but there
was a big disappointment in store when I found the Heritage Centre closed.
Checked their site and found it had been due to open in mid-June and now Sunday
the 30th is mentioned as the re-opening. There are some walks around the lake
and I enjoyed them but, without the back-up of information from the Centre was
unable to do much more. Didn’t even see “the crannog or lake-dwelling which is
still visible from the Lake shore” according to the website.
After the peace and quite of Lough Gur, the traffic through Adare
was almost a shock. Got parking in the large lot behind the centrally situated
Heritage Centre as did many more, including quite a few tour buses.
Wild Geese dessert |
Needed a coffee after the morning’s exertions and got a good
one in the Market Place, about 100 metres uphill from the Heritage Centre. The
Market Place is a very busy spot with an extensive menu but, with dinner
booked, I settled for the coffee and an excellent slice of apple tart, real
chunky apple pieces! Tasty stuff.
After that it was back to Ballingarry and a wee rest before
heading out again to the Wild Geese.
Check out Day 1 here
Day 3 here
Check out Day 1 here
Day 3 here