Just The Italian Job With Liberty Wines. Alpha Zeta Makes A Winning Impression

Just The Italian Job With Liberty Wines

Alpha Zeta Makes A Winning Impression

Alpha Zeta sounds more like a college fraternity rather than a winery. But a winery it is, started in 1999 when Liberty Wines, working with leading New Zealand winemaker, Matt Thomson, set out to produce a range of modern, fruit-driven wines from the hills outside Verona. The wines here have distinguishing single letters on the label. The Chardonnay below, by the way, is a Gold Medal winner from the recent Irish Wine Show.

Alpha Zeta "C" Chardonnay Veneto (IGT) 2018, 13%, €14.99

Stockists: 64 Wine; Blackrock Cellar; O'Donovans Off Licence; C Morton & Son Ltd; McHugh’s Off Licence; Thomas`s of Foxrock; The Vintry; Jus de Vine; Myles Creek; Martins Off Licence; Next Door @ The Mary B; Leopardstown Inn; World Wide Wines; The Old Stand; JJ O’Driscoll; Wineoline.ie.

Really bright in the glass with a light straw colour. Aromatic, tropical fruits. Concentrated fruit on the palate, superb acidity too. And this fresh and lively medium bodied wine has a good long finish as well. It was a Gold Medal Winner at the recent National Off Licence Awards at the Irish Wine Show, beating off all-comers in the Old World White Under €15.00 category. Think I agree with the judges. Very Highly Recommended.

As you go to the second glass, you have to remind yourself that this is an Italian Chardonnay, not a French one, not one from Australia. It was a Gold Medal Winner at the recent National Off Licence Awards at the Irish Wine Show, beating off all-comers in the Old World White Under €15.00 category. Think I agree with the judges. Very Highly Recommended.

Alpha Zeta say they are “are resolutely modern yet rooted in the ancient traditions of the area. ‘C’ is for the Chardonnay grapes and for the contemporary style of this wine. This Chardonnay is lightly oaked (half the wine was fermented in oak), with crisp flavours and that combines with a creamy richness on the palate to make an impressive wine.”

Alpha Zeta  “R” Valpolicella Ripasso (DOC) Superiore 2017, 13.5%, €19.99 

McHughs Off Licence - Kilbarrack Rd & Malahide Road; Baggot Street Wines; Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants; 64 Wine; The Vintry; Lilac Wines; C Morton & Son Ltd; Clontarf Wines; World Wide Wines; Myles Creek; JJ O’Driscolls; Bradley’s; The Old Stand; Dwan's Off Licence; Wineoline.ie

Alpha Zeta use a modern approach to the traditional practice of Ripasso with this “R” cuvée, a blend of 85% Corvina/Corvinone and 15% Rondinella.

Colour is mid ruby. Aromas are intense, mainly of cherry, plus other red fruits. The palate experience is similar, concentrated, aromatic and silky. Full-bodied yes but with a lovely and lively cherry character somewhere between the lightness of Valpolicella and the more serious character of Amarone. It’s a good place to be and the acidity is present right through to the long dry finish. Very Highly Recommended. 

The traditional Veronese practice, known as “Ripasso", saw the young wine re-fermented on the skins of the Amarone grapes once they had finished fermenting in March. The modern approach is to ferment the young wine together with dried grapes in the January following the vintage, giving the wine more body and depth. Following fermentation, the wine was aged for just over a year in a mixture of large and small French oak barrels prior to bottling. The producers say this blend of modern and traditional winemaking produces a wine with a combination of freshness, structure and depth that is fairly rare among Ripasso wines.

Top Olive Oils at Bradley’s

Top Olive Oils at Bradley’s

Three very young oils

Bradley’s of North Main Street, Cork, are well known for their selection of fine wines. And, where there’s wine, there’s olive oil. Indeed, quite a few of the oils available here are made by top wine-makers including a few from Tuscany and Spain’s Torres.

Speaking of Tuscany, a wine and olive oil producer there once told me that the best way to make olive oil is to immediately cold press the just picked grapes. In his place, it was done in the cool of the night as the Olive Press was too hot during the day, which it was. I tried it and you could hardly stand there for a minute.

He was scathing about the big companies who dragged in olives from all over the Med and were still able to claim that the oil was on a par with his. The longer the olives are hanging around (or in transport) the more the acid is a factor. Some big producers filter out the acid but also much of the goodness.

Tuscany is more or less on the northern edge of the kind of climate in which the olive tree grows and so is very susceptible to changes in the weather, especially the frost which has been known to more or less wipe out the olive rows. 

The one in 1985 was a disaster. The trees had be severely pruned to ground level and it took all of ten years to get a good crop again. So the arrival of the new season’s oils in Tuscany is a big event. It is like a fete and the restaurants mark it by putting on special menus. It is very important for Tuscan cuisine and they always cook with good oil. 

Fontodi Extra Virgin Olive Oil: a richly coloured oil from Tuscany, very delicately balanced. Fine aromas of artichoke leaf and an elegant peppery flavour come together in a fragrant lingering finish. The organically raised olives are picked by hand and carefully pressed the same day in order

to keep the fragrance. Read more here.  

The River Cafe I Canonici 2016 EVOO: also from Tuscany, this is an almost luminous green in its youth (as many of them are!); this bright oil is fragrant and very spicy with lovely fresh grass and green olive characters. Clean and bright it has tremendous depth of flavour right through to the long peppery finish.

Capazzana 2016: Organic and another Tuscan. Quite a bright green in colour, soft and fruity with a light spice and great delicacy, perfect for drizzling over freshly baked bread and using in dressing for salads.

Alpha Zeta 2015 EVOO: Golden-green in colour with a light delicate perfume of fresh grass and ripe olives. Light and delicate on the palate with a fresh grassy taste, medium body and a smooth ripe finish. Excellent for drizzling over more delicate dishes. This comes from the hills outside Verona where cool breezes come down from the Dolomites.

Torres Silencio: Sourced from the estate of Los Desterrados in Lleida, Catalonia, from centuries-old Arbequina olive trees. The olives are harvested and cold-pressed on the same day, and only the oil from the first pressing is used. The resulting extra virgin olive oil is rounded and well balanced with aromas of artichoke, unripened almonds and fresh-cut grass. And Miguel A. Torres Senior requests it at every meal when travelling (where available). 

West Cork Olives: Bradley’s also carry oils marketed by West Cork Olives and imported from Spain and Greece. I haven’t had a chance to sample these yet.

Suggestions On Olive Oil In Cooking

1 - How about delicious Pumpkin and Farro Soup with a topping of Parmesan and a good oil?

2 - A lovely plateful of local scallops with lemon, chilli, coriander and oil. Needless to say, plenty of bread (with oil on it) with these two dishes. 

3 - Slow Cooked (15 hours) shin of beef with red wine (Italian or Spanish!), thyme, garlic and black pepper, served with braised winter greens and an olive oil potato mash.  

If you prefer fish why not try this Fenn’s Quay dish that I came across a few years back: Grilled plaice, with braised leeks, olive oil crushed potatoes and onion puree. The first three dishes were served at an olive oil tasting in Ballymaloe.