Long May Dede Reign In Baltimore

 Long May Dede Reign In Baltimore

Ottoman Spiced Firik Risotto

When I was growing up (in the middle of the last century), I was aware of three grain crops: barley, oats and wheat. I knew them well, from the time they broke ground to the time they were threshed (the workers enjoyed a bottle or two of the black stuff!). 

Later on, much later on, I became aware of other grains (rye, spelt) and, last weekend in Baltimore, Dede introduced us to another one or at least to another variation: Firik, an ancient grain from his Turkey.

Aged Striploin (Wagyu Dexter cross)

And there was much more from Ahmet Dede’s native country including mulberries, his spice mix, Turkish cold pressed olive oil. Indeed, he has some 50 different spices, oils, molasses, nuts, grains and more from Turkey.

Sourdough and glimpses of Stonewell Cider.

The restaurant in the local Customs House elaborates:  “Our spiced based Turkish fusion cuisine is created by using raw and fresh ingredients from West Cork… An emphasis on beautiful local produce married with Chef Ahmet Dede’s Turkish heritage…”. 

Turkish Delight

And then, to the premium inputs from Turkey and Ireland,  he and his team add amazing technical skills, precision and attention to detail.

We start our culinary trek, no cutlery required for this first step, with a couple of amazing snacks. One is based on a biscuit made from mushrooms, a toothsome squeeze of mature Coolea, then a sliver of onion, all crowned with a spicy crisp. The other was the dolma,  a top to bottom segment of poached onion stuffed with rice, topped with smoked yogurt and caviar, and decorated with chive flowers. 

Red Mulberry Vacherin

What a beginning! And it just got better. As we made our delightful way through the many courses, we said “that was the best” and repeated the phrase again when the next one came along.

But this next one was truly amazing, an illustration that this Irish-Turkish fusion was giving us the most amazing food. It was the Spiced Lobster Bisque, Brown Crab Manti and Caviar. The fish of course came from the waters around the nearby islands and the cape.

Langoustine

Around this point, he introduced us to his beautiful sourdough bread along with the Turkish olive oil and the Irish butter from Gloun Dairy. 

Now time for another gem: Langoustine, radish, pea, smoked Crème Fraiche, and spiced consommé. And it just got better with the Cod, Chicken, Butter, Grapefruit, Lobster, and Fermented Chili Oil. The cod is not a rare fish on Irish menus but rarely do you get it so pristine and beautiful as this, singing on the plate. Of course it had a classy chorus to accompany it.

Rice pudding tartlet

Course six was soon in front of us, the only meat of the day, a Wagyu and Dexter cross Aged Striploin, Ottoman Spiced Firik, Mint, Carrot, Kumquat and Isot. The meat, from Macroom, was excellent and yet it was that Firik that stole my taste buds, quite an amazing “risotto” with the grain looking like pearl barley but so much more flavoursome. In fairness, the grain and the meat together were quite the main course.

It was to be cheese and sweet all the way after that and so we switched from Stonewell Cider to Killahora Ice Wine, just as the Red Mulberry Vacherin (a soft cow’s cheese), pomegranate, wood sorrel, young meadowsweet, arrived on the table. It looked beautiful but, we were “ordered” to smash it with the spoon. And, having taken the photo of course, we did the vandal bit and then tucked in and enjoyed every large and little fragment.

Hazelnut Bon Bon

Next a trio of small sweets were introduced: Hazelnut Bon Bon, Blood Orange & Cardamom along with the best Turkish Delight I’ve ever tasted.

And yet one more treat before we made a leisurely farewell. As with all the previous courses, our friendly and efficient servers (and there were quite a few) gave us the details and, on this occasion, the chef showed amazing precision as he made the most flawless quinnelles to top the Sütlaç ‘Rice Pudding’ Tartlet.  

Killahora Ice Wine. Delicious

And that topped our memorable 10 course lunch at the Michelin Star restaurant. Thanks to Dede and Maria and to their lovely staff. Long may they reign in Baltimore.

Baltimore Video (short)

The Divine Chocolatier. Even the gods love Grá.

The Divine Chocolatier.

Even the gods love Grá.

Mickael Viljanen

When I first heard of the Beyond the Menu Chocolate box by Grá Chocolates, I immediately thought that each chef would make his or her own but that’s not the way it transpired in Episode 4 of the show. Here we heard co-conspirators Mark Moriarty and chocolatier Gráinne Mullins chat about the project. 

The chocolates weren’t going to be based on the each chef’s signature dish as been initially proposed. Grainne suggested: .”.on their personalities, who they are!”. Mark agreed: “Each chef in a bite”.

Intriguing I thought and, as it turned out, absolutely exquisite.

There were the early hints from the two. 

Jess: New Zealand, bright, Irish grown kiwis.

Mike: Horseradish…would that work?.. let’s try it!

Ahmet: Colour - he gave me a Turkish delight recipe..gold.

Ian: ..loves a pint..salted stout said Mark.

Mike: Chaos on the outside…pine honey..Finland to Ireland.

Gráinne herself: “…bright… gooseberry and elderflower…I’ve got gooseberry in the garden.”

All decided, just like that!

Okay. Now to turn these bare bones into something memorable. With that kind of task ahead, you couldn’t have a better pilot than Galway’s Gráinne. Back in 2020, the newly crowned Young Chef of the Year was looking forward to a great time in the kitchen. Then Covid happened. Gráinne had to pivot quickly. Into making chocolates at home. But not to worry, that chef training wasn’t going to be wasted.

Dede

“Chocolate”, she says “is all about precisions.... temperatures, colours, flavours.” And she was also determined to give the customer: ”a seamless experience from opening the box to enjoying the chocolates.” And she succeeded brilliantly, her technical know-how and the colourful appeal combined deliciously with real originality. And while this Beyond the Menu box may no longer be available, she has got many other selections for you, ideally as a Christmas gift for someone you love (including yourself!) Check here. 

Mike Tweedy

They’ve been described as “Luxurious and Decadent” but I prefer “Fresh and Tasty”. Some chocolates are overwhelmingly dark and rich, dominating the palate a bit like the traditional big bold Australian Cabernet Sauvignon. Grá chocolates are, for me, to continue the analogy, more like a superb Burgundy or a Beaujolais Morgan, such is the precision and balance, the beautiful lightness, in each engaging mouthful.

Ian Doyle

And each, at least those in my box, is multi-faceted. Bite into Gráinne’s own as a great opener, that compelling mix of Gooseberry Jam, Elderflower Ganache and White Chocolate, a superb example of what is to come in the box.

Baltimore chef Ahmet Dede wakes up the palate with a magnificent melange of Rose Turkish delight and Pistachio Praline, as if a misty spray strayed over the local pier wall to say good morning. Wake up guys. There’s a great day ahead! Have another one.

Gráinne

And from the Sea Road in Galway, the Jess Murphy chocolate is made with Kiwi Jelly, Pavlova and White chocolate. Like the others, it is love at first bite, and all of us glad that the Kiwi chef landed in the West Coast. Crafting these classy chocolates is about the story as much as it is about the food, about Ireland today.

And of course the pint features. The Ian Doyle is made with Salted Dungarvan Stout Caramel (Cliff House, where Ian operates, supports the local brewers), Dulse Seaweed and Dark Chocolate. Dark and totally handsome!

Chocolat, Choculorum. Chocolate forever 
(You won't get full marks for that translation!) Pic by Grá

Mike Tweedie, well known for his surprisingly delightful food combinations at Adare Manor, finds himself represented by Horseradish ganache, Granny Smith Apple and white chocolate. Another smooth chocolate with the humble apple shining through.

"Flavours from the forests of Finland" feature in the Mickael Viljanen gem, a blend of Juniper Ganache and Pine Honey Vinegar. And indeed you could well imagine yourself enjoying one of these flavour-packed mouthfuls at the edge of trees as the short day ends and the long night begins. 

Thanks to Grá, you don't have to travel to enjoy these gorgeous creations. By the way, each one of the six is a delight and I would not leave any behind me in the box. We did a little poll to see which was the favourite. It came down to three - Gráinne, Dede, and Mickael - with Dede getting the nod.

Tweedie

The line-up:

Mickael Viljanen (Chapter One);

Jess Murphy (Kai);

Ian Doyle (The House Restaurant at the Cliff House);

Mike Tweedie (The Oak Room at Adare Manor);

Ahmet Dede (Dede);

Gráinne (Grá Chocolates).

I ordered the box (€40.00, with a contribution to Simon included)  in the middle of the year, with delivery set to coincide with Gráinne’s appearance on the TV programme with presenter Mark. Of course it would also coincide with a minor surgery and I was forced to wait a big longer to start sampling. Well worth the wait!

MICHELIN STAR SHINES ON CORK. Congrats to Dede, Goldie, and native son Ross Lewis

MICHELIN STAR SHINES ON CORK

Congrats to Dede, Goldie, and native son Ross Lewis 

Goldie

 

- Baltimore restaurant Dede features amongst 18 Irish Michelin Star restaurants

- Cork City has one new Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant

 

Dede at the Customs House in Baltimore, Co. Cork has been awarded a Michelin Star in the 2021 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland just published.

 

The popular West Cork establishment is the only newcomer to join what is now an 18-strong list of Michelin Star restaurants in the Republic of Ireland.

 

No stranger to the Michelin Star, head chef Ahmet Dede was awarded One Michelin Star in the 2019 edition of the Guide when at the Mews restaurant, Baltimore, an accolade he retained in 2020.

 

Other Cork restaurants to retain their star status in the 2021 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland are Bastion in Kinsale and Chestnut in nearby Ballydehob and Cork City centre Japanese restaurant Ichigo Ichie.

 

Baltimore. You'll find Dede about 100m from the marina.

Other restaurants that hold their Michelin Star from previous years are the Two Star Restaurants Patrick Guilbaud and The Greenhouse in Dublin City along with Aimsir in Celbridge. One Star Dublin establishments are Chapter One, Variety Jones and L’Ecrivain in Dublin City and Liath in Blackrock village. Elsewhere, other one-star restaurants are Aniar and Loam (Galway City); Campagne and Lady Helen at Mount Juliet Hotel (Kilkenny); Wild Honey Inn, Lisdoonvarna (Clare); House Restaurant at Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore (Waterford); and The Oak Room at Adare Manor in County Limerick.

 

In Northern Ireland, three Belfast restaurants – Eipic (Howard Street), Ox (Oxford Street) and The Muddlers Club (Cathedral Quarter) – have also retained their Michelin Star status.

 

Cork City – one new Bib Gourmand award

Four restaurants join the list of 18 Bib Gourmand recipients in the Republic of Ireland whose names feature in the 2021 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland.

 

Michelin Bib Gourmand awards recognise those establishments offering good food at affordable prices.

 

The four newcomers are: Goldie in Cork City; Spitalfields in The Coombe, Dublin City; Volpe Nera in Blackrock, Co. Dublin and Table Forty One in Gorey.

 

Others, all of which retain Bib Gourmand status from earlier years, are 1826 Adare (Adare); Aldridge Lodge (Duncannon); Chart House and Land to Sea (both Dingle); The Courthouse (Carrickmacross); Kai and Tartare Café & Wine Bar (both Galway City); Morrissey’s (Doonbeg); Sha-Roe Bistro (Clonegall); Thyme (Athlone) and in Dublin City, Uno Mas (Aungier Street); Pichet (Trinity Street); Pigeon House (Clontarf) and Richmond (Portobello).

  

In Northern Ireland, five establishments retaining their awards from last year are Balloo House in Killinchy, Newtownards; Noble (Holywood); Wine & Brine (Moira) and Belfast’s Deanes at Queen’s and Home in Wellington Place.

 

Three new Michelin Green Star restaurants committed to sustainable gastronomy

This year’s Guide sees the introduction of the new Michelin ‘Green Star’ distinction – highlighting restaurants that are leaders in sustainability practices.

 

Ireland’s three Michelin Green Star recipients are Kai and Loam Restaurant (both Galway City) and Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites on the Aran Island of Inishmaan in Co. Galway.

Kinsale demo by Ross Lewis and David Rice (right)

 

Two special awards – highlighting the talent of the restaurant industry

Ross Lewis of Chapter One in Dublin was honoured with the Michelin Chef Mentor award 2021, whilst Noble Restaurant in Holywood won the Michelin Service and Welcome Award 2021.

 

Speaking at its launch, Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guides, said: “This has been a hugely challenging period for the hospitality industry and our thoughts remain with all those who have suffered from the pandemic and by the restrictions that have been put in place.

 

“We were heartened by the number of chefs who called us during the year to ensure we were still going ahead with the Guide and our yearly awards. The Michelin Guide is about promoting the hospitality industry as a whole and we want to shine a light on the hard work, tenacity and commitment of chefs and restaurant teams,” he added.

 

Published now in a digital format only, by tyre manufacturer Michelin, the Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2021 is available at https://guide.michelin.com/ie/en

and via the iOS app: https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/michelin-guide-worldwide/id1541129177

 

A Bank Holiday Taste of the Week Special from Baltimore. Stunning "Combination" between Sally Barnes and Ahmet Dede

Taste of the Week
A Bank Holiday Special from Baltimore
A Stunning "Combination" between Sally Barnes and Ahmet Dede

A couple of weeks back, after a lovely lunch in Baltimore's Custom House where renowned chef Ahmet Dede now works, we stopped at their deli and bought a few things. Two dips ended up in our bag. One was the house pepper and garlic, the other was Sally Barnes' Smoked Fish.

"All you need now for a lovely meal is sourdough." We noted the instructions and a few days later put the three together in the sunny back-garden. And the day after as well...

An amazing Taste of the Week, quite a special one.

If you're anywhere near Baltimore, be sure and call to the deli in the Customs House, just a few yards from the village centre, and buy for yourself. You won't be sorry!

Dede brings a refined and exotic touch to amazing West Cork produce in his new Baltimore venue.

Dede brings a refined and exotic touch to amazing

 West Cork produce in his new Baltimore venue.

Beetroot, and peach

Often it is the simple things that make the meal. Local beetroot, his own bread, even the ice-cream, all stood out during a delicious lunch at Baltimore’s Customs House where top Chef Ahmet Dede may be found these days, just a few steps from The Mews where he helped win a Michelin star in 2018.

Baltimore sunshine

It is all much simpler here in the sunny courtyard with a scattering of rustic tables, a barbecue set up on one side, a young and friendly staff, the menu on a blackboard, the renowned chef himself in and out helping and with time for a chat as was partner Maria. The food for lunch is simple, and simply superb. The sky is blue, the sun high above. On a midday like today, the indoor rooms are redundant.

Chicken mains

Could this get any better? Believe or not, it did. In a gesture that underlines the admiration that Dede has for the people here and they for him, we (all the customers) were invited to taste one of the wines that the management had been trying out in the shade with Fionnuala of Wines Direct. 

Love that Pet' Nat!

Maria, Ahmet’s business partner, told me they do that here and that they want good wines that their customers can afford, particularly by the glass. Our sample was that bit different, a delicious, light and easy-drinking Pet’ Nat, not from France but from Greece! What a lovely bonus. A friendly touch in a friendly and cool place.

They are offering a set menu of three courses on a Thursday, Friday and a Saturday evening at a set price of €50 per person.  The ingredients are sourced locally from the finest, eco friendly and passionate growers, producers, farmers, cheesemongers, foragers, fishmongers and butchers. The menu will constantly change according to the seasons and availability of ingredients, and may change again when hopefully the Covid time-limit is lifted!

We read our simple lunch menu from the blackboard (brought to our table). We both thought it was a bit warm for the Spiced Lentil Soup with sourdough (6.00) so gave it a skip. 

Mega dessert!

There were three salad options on the mains and CL went for the Beetroot, Feta and Peach offering (4 to 6 euro depending on size). The beetroot is at its best right now and Ahmet enhanced that fresh flavour even further with a few slices of peach and also some thin apple slices that were disguised by the red juice but also played a part on the palate. Very enjoyable dish indeed was the verdict! My Blog Chef though would have a little more peach, a little more feta, and a little less beet.

I felt like something more substantial, so picked the quarter rotisserie chicken with bulgar wheat, salad, potatoes and sourdough bread (17.50). Ahmet himself delivered our mains and told me I was having rice instead of the bulgar. He also said they were getting on well here and were very busy overall. So I busied myself with this superb dish, fantastic flavours and textures, reminding me a bit of the (obviously) memorable Farmyard Chicken lunch I had at Café Lavinal in Pauillac a few years ago.

Having skipped the starter, we were up for the dessert: brown butter ice-cream with honey sauce. We weren’t quite prepared for the size of it though, about as big as a wheel of Gubbeen. A very generous round indeed and the sauce was delicious as well. It may have been big but it was finished!

From the deli

We paid up (40 euro including tip) and then took a look at his deli. That has loads of tempting produce, including his salads, his magnificent sourdough, lots of pastries too. Much of the produce is local, including Gloun Cross butter for instance. 

We got a few things here and a bit of advice from Maria. With a Smoked Fish Dip from Sally Barnes and their own Roasted Red Pepper and Garlic Dip in the bag, we were told all we needed for a super lunch with the dips was some sourdough. Going down to get that together as soon as I finish up here!

Baltimore was looking splendid when we arrived (and when we left). So we had a good look around, mainly at the boats coming and going from the islands. The little square above the harbour was quite busy too with customers dining in the sun.

But we couldn’t linger any longer and soon we were heading for Skibbereen, Drimoleague and Dunmanway on the way home via the R585. I’d normally prefer the R584 but, with so many interesting stops on that one, we’d have had to make an overnight somewhere, like Gougane. Next time.

Also on this trip:
Mizen Head Visit
Overnight and Dinner at Celtic Ross

Baltimore in the sun