Splendid JN Wine Portfolio Tasting at the Hayfield Manor

 Splendid JN Wine Portfolio Tasting at the Hayfield Manor

Stéphan Heinrich

JN Wines, a family business now celebrating 47 years, presented a sterling selection of wines from around the world at Monday’s Portfolio Tasting at Hayfield Manor. The glassed venue in the garden was perfect for the occasion. The sun obliged and the glass “roof” was opened for a spell. In addition, aside from the self-pour tastings, JN was joined by Adrián Bujanda from Familia Martínez Bujanda (Rioja) and  Stéphan Heinrich (Languedoc).

Though Bujanda is Riojan-based, they did have a Verdejo, Finca Montepedrosso from Rueda. Having spent five months on fine lees, it was a little more complex than usual but had the usual fruit and acidity. 

Adrián Bujanda

Perhaps the highlight was tasting their Joven, Crianza and Reserva, all three 100% Tempranillo. The 2023 Joven has been raised in stainless, and it didn't see any oak, and, as always, I found it fresh and fruity and very engaging. The 2020 Crianza had spent 12 months in oak and was another excellent wine and "a customer favourite". The star here was the Reserva (2018), with its sweet species, mature fruit and long expressive finish; it was indeed one of the wines of the show.

Stéphan Heinrich told me that Maison Ventenac is just 8 kilometres from Carcassone, familiar to many Cork travellers. Their labels are unusually simple but quite eye-catching. I started with the Steph (short for Stephanie!), a cracking 2023 Merlot 

But there was better to come as both the Réserve de Jeanne (2021) and the Dissidents’ L’Idiot were top-class. The Jeanne blends 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Syrah. It is not typical of the region, but the freshness of the Cabernet and the flavour and pepper notes of the Syrah make for an excellent result and push it to the top of the tasting ranks at the Hayfield. L’Idiot, 100% Merlot, is a beautiful juice, fruity and boasting a great minerality. Another for the shortlist!

One of the best!

All the other tables were classed under variety, and there were no country sections. Quite a few to go through, but one country that caught my eye, or should I say, taste buds, was South Africa. There was a very good Rustenberg Chardonnay from Stellenbosch, a high-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon (2022), while the red blend from Rustenberg (John X Merriman) and Newton Johnson’s Full Stop Rock was also top-class. Do we underrate South African wines in Ireland?

Just before Christmas, I exchanged season greetings online with Ramsi Ghosin of Massaya, who is based in the Bekaa Valley. “I'm hoping, with fingers crossed as they say, ‘that the dynamic of peace will finally prevail in Lebanon’”. 

A top red!

In his newsletter, he wrote: “..wine in Lebanon has experienced a tremendous renaissance. When we started Massaya in 1998, there were only four wine producers. Today, our number exceeds 60. So how can we explain the contradiction between the growth of Lebanese wine and the turmoil we have simultaneously faced?”

And I was hoping for peace also as I sipped their marvellous Le Columbier 2021 at the Hayfield, even though part of my reason was a little on the selfish side. We need more wines like this blend, which has equal amounts of Cinsault, Grenache and Tempranillo. It has good fruit and spice and a finish that lingers.

Enjoyed this Merlot from
Maison Ventenac

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Top whites

Au Bon Climat White Blend 2021

Neudorf Rosie’s Black Chardonnay 2019

Coustarret AOC Jurancon Sec Contrastes

Beauregard Saint Véran Classic 2022

Dom. Gueguen Chablis 2023

Dom. Bott-Geyl Les Elements Riseling 2022

Wine & Soul Manoella 2023

Top reds

Ventenac Réserve de Jeanne 2021

Sophenia Malbec 2021

Newton Johnson Full Stop Rock 2020

Ventenac ‘Les Dissidents’ L’Idiot 2023

Bujanda Rioja Reserva 2018

Massaya Le Columbier 2021

Rustenberg John X Merriman 2022