Market Lane Knows Its Onions

 Market Lane Knows Its Onions

I’ve been enjoying the French Onion Soup at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and was served as a fantastic starter during my lunch last week at the Oliver Plunkett Street location.

This enjoyable experience got me thinking about how many Irish restaurants serve this famous dish, which Raymond Blanc describes as “a Frenchman’s heaven.” 

At the market!

He shares a few tips for making the soup, which originated in eighteenth-century Paris as a beef broth topped with caramelised onions. Now often served without the beef, Raymond emphasises that the quality of the onions is crucial. He prefers using Rose de Roscoff onions and suggests floating croutons on top with some grated two-year-old Comté cheese.

Raymond, a renowned chef at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons—a hotel restaurant in Great Milton, Oxfordshire—is one of many supporters of this iconic soup. 

Chicken

Delia Smith enthuses: “If ever there was a winter stomach warmer, this is surely it! There are few things more comforting than making a real French onion soup—slowly cooked, caramelised onions that turn mellow and sweet in a broth laced with white wine and Cognac.”

I sourced some Roscoff onions from Bryn Perrin of West Cork Garlic a few years ago at the weekly Friday market in Bantry. Back home, we combined a recipe from Nigel Slater with one from an undated French cookbook, *A Taste of France*. The soup, topped with baguette slices and Gruyère cheese, was a delight—packed with enticing aromas and satisfying flavors.

In earlier years, Market Lane used Gruyère for the cheese, but I’m glad they now choose Coolea. In 2015, Kate Lawlor, then chef/patron at Fenn's Quay, used Gubbeen cheese with her croutons.

Crispy Duck

At that time, the Market Lane French Onion Soup cost €5.95, but it is now ten euros. It's still worth every cent and remains delicious, full of standout flavours; I especially love the added Coolea cheese and croutons. I’ll always be on the lookout for that one.

Last week, I was also eager to try a newer dish—Arroz Marinera, which features bomba rice, prawns, mussels, squid, haddock, leeks, and white wine, accompanied by garlic aioli and crispy toast. It had been highlighted on their Instagram on Wednesday, but unfortunately, it wasn’t available during Thursday’s service.

This meant a second look at the menu and a change of plans. I considered the Korean bulgogi steak sandwich served on a sourdough baguette with chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, and lime mayo with house chips (below). I had enjoyed it relatively recently and can recommend it.

Korean bulgogi steak sandwich

Ultimately, I chose their Five-Spiced Crispy Duck in a brioche bun with cabbage, pak choi, carrot slaw, hoisin aioli, and house chips, which turned out to be delicious. The spice was noticeable but not overpowering.

Meanwhile, CL was delighted with her Roast Marinated Chicken, accompanied by thyme-buttered root vegetables, braised cabbage, creamy mash, and gravy. Although it wasn't groundbreaking, these classic dishes can sometimes be just as satisfying as more modern offerings.

Both plates were filling, leaving little room for dessert—certainly not for the generously portion of Orange and Vanilla Bread and Butter Pudding served with custard and whipped cream, a long-standing favourite here.

Lastly, I want to commend all the servers. It was a busy lunchtime, and they handled everything superbly throughout the service.